international trade centre ethical fashion support...

INTERNATIONAL TRADE CENTRE

ETHICAL FASHION SUPPORT PROJECT

MARKET RESEARCH REPORT 1 AUGUST 2007 DESIGNER AND RETAILER ANALYSIS

Including consultation with leading fashion designers and retailers on:

• Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• The ITC Ethical Fashion Support project proposals

• Look book, sample book, and product designs

• Marketing concepts

A report for the International Trade Centre by the Ethical Fashion Forum

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report and the research behind it were commissioned in May 2007 by the International Trade Centre, to inform proposals for an ITC ethical fashion support project focused upon high quality products made in Africa. The project aims to support and facilitate sustainable supply chain models for fashion, within the high value, designer and luxury goods sector. The first programme of support focuses upon sourcing from Africa and in particular from Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania.

The Ethical Fashion Forum was commissioned to carry out initial market research and consultation. Two areas of work were defined:

1. Designer and Retailer Analysis: Research into the attitudes and approach of a selection of designers and retailers to high value ethical fashion and to the ITC project proposals.

2. Consumer Analysis: to define the characteristics of the market for high value, ethically sourced fashion

This report relates to the first area of work, Designer and Retailer Analysis. Its goal is to understand the approach and attitudes to ethical sourcing and to the ITC project proposals, of mono-brand chains of stores (such as Marks & Spencer), designer businesses (such as Stella McCartney) and innovative retailers (such as Dover Street Market) as a way of assessing the dimension and the potential of this niche. Interviews were carried out with 3 designers/ designer businesses, 2 mono brand stores, and 3 multi brand retailers/ retail concept stores. Businesses were chosen for their relevance as trendsetters more than for their quantitative relevance in the segment of ethical fashion.

Feedback on the following three main issues was gained at interviews through a questionnaire: A. Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion: B. Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project C. Feedback on the look book, sample book, and product designs

In the case of interviews with multi brand retailers/ concept stores, feedback was also requested on marketing concept.

Feedback from consultation included the following:

• There is an expanding market for high value ethically sourced fashion

• Representatives of all the designers/ companies interviewed would be interested in engaging further with the project

• All four areas of support proposed by the ITC project are considered important- in particular the link between product design and manufacture

• The project should engage with industry organisations and bodies, consider setting up a wholesale distribution system/ agent, and involve other sectors of the industry such as children’s wear and interiors

• Involving key designers, key buyers, celebrities and high profile figures would be a good way to raise awareness of the project

• All of interviewees would like further information on samples and half of interviewees confirmed immediate interest in sourcing and using components from the sample book in collections/ to stock products in store

• For the designer sector, unembellished fabric and component samples may be more appropriate

• For the High St / retail sector, product designs were most of interest

• Interviewees require information on price, quantities and delivery times in order to place orders

• Interviewees would like to see photographs and information on the stories behind the products rather than trend forecasting in the Look Book

• Products sourced through the project would benefit from raised profile rather than significant commercial return through being stocked in retail environments such as Colette and Dover St Market.

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CONTENTS EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 1. INTRODUCTION 4 1.1 The ITC Ethical Fashion Project 1.2 Market Research Objectives 1.3 Designer and Retailer Analysis 1.4 Definitions 2. METHODOLOGY 6 3. FEEDBACK FROM DESIGNERS AND RETAILERS 7 3.1 Designers 7 3.1.1 Stella McCartney 3.1.2 Comme des Garcons 3.1.3 Vivienne Westwood 3.2 Mono Brand Stores 12 3.2.1 M&S 3.2.2 Monsoon/ Accessorize 3.3 Retailers/ retail concept stores 15 3.3.1 Collette 3.3.2 Dover Street Market 3.3.3 Topshop 4. SUMMARY OF RESULTS AND KEY RECOMMENDATIONS 21 4.1 Quick Reference table 21 4.2 .Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion: 21 4.3. Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project 22 4.4. Feedback on the look book, sample book, and product designs 24 4.5 Marketing concepts 25 4.6 Key recommendations for the ITC Ethical Fashion Project 26 APPENDIX (Bound separately) Outline of ITC Ethical Fashion Support Project Questionnaire used Full transcripts from interviews

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INTRODUCTION

1.1 The ITC Ethical Fashion Support Project This report and the research behind it were commissioned in May 2007 by the International Trade Centre, to inform proposals for an ITC ethical fashion support project focused upon high quality products made in Africa. The project aims to support and facilitate sustainable supply chain models for fashion, within the high value, designer and luxury goods sector. The first programme of support focuses upon sourcing from Africa and in particular from Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania. The goals of the project are as follows: • To allow international fashion companies to develop product lines that incorporate skills and materials from Africa, in order to build sustainable trade relationships and reduce poverty • To develop local skills and build production capacity and quality management systems in developing countries, through training and links with fashion market professionals • To provide the support and access to resources needed to create successful high end product lines, produced in Africa, using locally sourced materials The ITC project includes four areas of proposed support for ethical sourcing models, including market research and consultation, product specification, manufacturing and marketing and sales. See ITC Project Outline in the appendix for further details. 1.2 Market Research Objectives The Ethical Fashion Forum was commissioned to carry out initial market research and consultation, in order to gain an understanding of: 1. The dimension of the market for high value, high quality items produced on the basis of sustainable environmental and social processes 2. How to bring European distributors or fashion people to work with African partner organisations to produce all or parts of precious luxury items using African materials (natural fibres, organic cotton, beads, seeds etc). Two areas of work were defined:

• Designer and Retailer Analysis: Research into the attitudes and approach of a selection of designers and retailers to high value ethical fashion and to the ITC project proposals.

• Consumer Analysis: to define the characteristics of the market for high value, ethically sourced fashion

This report relates to the first area of work. A second report has been prepared covering the second area of work: see ITC Ethical Fashion Project, Market Research Report 2 (August 2007) 1.3 Designer and Retailer Analysis The goal of this research is to understand the approach and attitudes to ethical sourcing and to the ITC project proposals, of mono-brand chains of stores (such as Marks & Spencer), designer businesses (such as Stella McCartney) and innovative retailers (such as Dover Street Market) as a way of assessing the dimension and the potential of this niche.

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Interviews were carried out with the following designers and mono-brand stores: (chosen for their relevance as trendsetters more than for their quantitative relevance in the segment of ethical fashion): Designers Stella McCartney Comme des Garcons Vivienne Westwood Mono Brand Stores M&S Monsoon/ Accessorize In addition, interviews were carried out with the following multi brand retailers/ concept stores in order to gain a clearer understanding of the marketing concept and the market results behind them. Multi brand retailers/ retail concept stores Colette Dover Street Market Topshop Monsoon/ Accessorize has replaced H&M which was originally named as a mono brand store to be included in the interview process. This is because H&M made a policy decision not to take part/ respond to questions at this stage. Monsoon/ Accessorize was included in the survey instead on the recommendation of representatives of some of the other retailer participants. 1.4 Definitions Ethical /sustainable/ ethically sourced fashion Fashion sourced and produced on the basis of sustainable environmental and social processes High value/ high quality fashion products High quality, well designed fashion products (including clothing, accessories and footwear) which can be sold within the designer fashion and luxury segment of the market at premium price points.

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2. METHODOLOGY Research for this report was carried out through interview. All but one of the interviews were carried out in person through meetings. All interviewees were sent copies of the ITC Ethical Fashion Project outline prior to interviews. All interviews were carried out between May and August 2007. 2.1 An A3 look book, separate sample swatch book, and selection of product designs were presented at meetings. These included:

• Samples of fabric/ materials sourced from Kenya and Uganda, which had been worked on by textile designers in Italy and the UK, to show examples of how these fabrics could be embellished using beadwork (also sourced from Kenya and Uganda) embroidery and printwork.

• Photographs taken of products and components on site in Kenya

• A series of product designs put together by an Italian designer , on the basis of using fabrics and samples included in the Look Book

2.2 Feedback on three main issues was gained at interviews through a questionnaire: (See appendix for a copy of the questionnaire used) A. Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion: Including:

• Whether there is a market for this, and it is of interest to the companies customers

• Whether this is something the company is already engaged with and / or would like to engage with further

• What is needed to encourage or support ethical sourcing practices for fashion B. Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Including:

• How can designers and businesses be encouraged to engage with the project

• Feedback on the ITC support proposals- including the relative importance of the 4 proposed areas of support- and how these could be added to

• Whether companies would be interested in engaging further with the project

• Whether companies/ designers would be willing to work with African designers and entrepreneurs to share practice and to exchange ideas

C. Feedback on the look book, sample book, and product designs Including:

• Which samples / components are of most interest for high end/ designer fashion and accessories, ideas on how these could be used, which items are less interesting and why

• How samples and components could be improved or built upon to make them more relevant to the needs of fashion designers and businesses

• Feedback on the look book and presentation of the samples and components In the case of interviews with multi brand retailers/ concept stores, feedback was also requested on marketing concept: D Marketing concept Including:

• Information on target customer

• Marketing concept/ approach, and the success of this approach

• How this concept could be used to promote and to support ethical fashion initiatives

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3. FEEDBACK FROM DESIGNERS AND RETAILERS Feedback from interviews with representatives of designers and retailers is summarised in this section in line with the main issues set out in Section 2, Methodology. Full records of responses to questionnaires can be found in the Appendix to this report. Please note that the information recorded here has been provided by representatives of the designer businesses and companies in question. Particularly in the case of larger chains this feedback may not always be considered as representing policy for the organisation as a whole.

3.1 Designers

3.1.1 Stella McCartney Interviewee: Jackie Andrews, Buyer and textiles sourcing specialist Attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• There is an increasing demand for ethically sourced products.

• Stella McCartney has a completely organic skin care range as well as an organically sourced capsule within the womenswear range.

• There are plans to incorporate fair trade and recycled sourcing within womenswear ranges.

• There is a particular interest by the brand in using natural dyes- as there is a consumer and buyer demand for this- and dying processes are highly toxic

• Products will be labelled so that customers can check their content, origin of materials, carbon footprint etc.

• Stella McCartney is particularly interested in recycling- including recycling their own stock- and using organic products.

• There is a focus on “technical green” (eg fabrics & components from recycled polyesters and nylons, new fabrics – there is quite a lot of experimentation on this in Japan)

• Stella McCartney has a long term commitment to sustainability. Challenges

• Lead in times are a problem – it is slower to produce sustainably. Stella McCartney has a commercial turn around of 6 weeks for some products and this is currently not possible if they are made to sustainable criteria.

• This is partly down to:

• Economies of scale – these cannot be achieved as volumes are smaller

• The current retail system dictates short turn around times, which will be very difficult to change

In order to make ethical sourcing easier:

• Logistics need to improve.

• Suppliers- more professional awareness is needed

Encouraging ethical sourcing in the designer sector:

• The best way to engage fashion designers is for them to get commissions from retailers and buyers for ethical ranges.

• Two department stores in the US, Barneys and Neiman Marcus, have recently requested sustainable products/ ranges from designers. This makes the merchandising team wake up.

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Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Recommendations:

• The ITC project needs to work directly with the industry to achieve change.

• Alternative suppliers- such as those that the project aims to support in Africa- need to work directly with the commercial sourcing sector and buyers.

• The main suppliers to the designer sector- eg fabric mills in Italy and elsewhere- need to be persuaded to work with fair trade groups/ co-operatives in Africa.

• One way of doing this would be through developing an industry mentor system for suppliers and producers in Africa.

• Producers need long term/ sustainable opportunities. Building in mentoring and training programmes to ensure high quality products is important.

• Retailers need certification- so that they can communicate the ethics behind products to consumers.

Feedback on the 4 proposed areas of support:

• The most important element is the link between design and manufacture. Both need to work in tandem to achieve successful products.

• Designers don’t have time to deal directly with lots of different suppliers and producers in Africa. Normally they work with a mill/ agent who will source a variety of different components needed for collections. A wholesale company/ agency (which could be a social enterprise) is needed to play this role for sustainably sourced products -the UN could support the development of this.

• It will be more difficult to encourage designers to commit to long term relationships to one supplier. An agent/ wholesaler managing a range of suppliers would work in favour of both designers and suppliers, bringing more custom to suppliers and more variety to designers.

Engaging with the ITC Ethical Fashion Project:

• Stella McCartney would be interested in engaging with the project, and sourcing components to ethical criteria from Africa.

• However, shared practice with African designers and entrepreneurs would not be logistically possible- due to restrictions on time and resources in the development of collections and product ranges.

Feedback on the look book , sample book, and product designs Fabric samples and components:

• Some of the samples are definitely of interest. Stella McCartney may be interested in the following for the upcoming collections;

• The paper beads

• Woven straw/ rag rug style weaving

• Woven plastic

• It would be more interesting to see unembellished/ raw samples and raw materials, including yarns. The samples speak for themselves and the embroidery / embellishment can detract from this. Samples should build on the unique selling points on site, eg specific skills in weaving, dying or other skills rather than detail added to samples afterwards.

• Options for embellishment could be shown along side, on other fabrics.

• It is confusing because the raw materials are from Africa however the embellishment is carried out elsewhere- designers need to be clear on whether they are buying into the embellished product or the raw materials.

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• In order to place orders on the products the following would be needed;

• Lead in times

• Samples

• Prices

• Dye options

• Widths

• Quantities would not be such an issue at this stage- small quantities only would be needed for sampling. However production capacities would need to be established in order to take orders on samples.

Feedback on look book content and presentation:

• Trend information may be of interest to the high street but would not be relevant to the design sector- the idea of a look book for trends is slightly outdated.

• However, photographs of processes, people, and stories behind the product are definitely of interest to designers. Case studies which show success stories and explain methodologies would also be useful.

• These could be presented alongside samples or simply through a PowerPoint presentation shown to designers when sample books are presented.

• This is the way the top/ luxury fabric houses present their products- through visiting designers, giving a PowerPoint presentation, and showing well presented fabric swatch books. Designers indicate interest in samples and these swatches are then sent to designers.

• Another idea for presenting the fabric/ component samples is through printed postcards with stories / case studies on the back. Textiles Tales is a successful venture which uses this approach (http://www.textiletales.com/)

• Designers keep these and pin these up for inspiration

• These could be sold in packs to support the project- or used to promote it- although they could not be used for the basis of orders as they would not be an adequate substitute for physical samples.

3.1.2 Comme des Garcons Interviewee: Dickon Bowden, General Manager, Dover St Market It was not possible to get an interview with the designers / directors of Comme des Garcons within the time scale of this research, as they are based in Japan. However, Dickon Bowden, general manager for the Comme des Garcons retail concept store in London (Dover St Market) works closely with the company and was able to provide feedback. Attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• Consumers are much more aware of these issues now and ethics and sustainability are a part of their mentality

• Dover St Market stocks a number of labels working to ethical criteria

• DSM is particularly interested in craftsmanship and unique, beautifully crafted products

• Interesting fabrics and components from sustainable sources need to be more available to designers

• Designers are more likely to engage if they are inspired by the products and samples available

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Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project

• The importance of the different support proposals depends on who they are pitched to in the market

• Certification may be more important for a high street chain. For Dover St Market it would be enough to tell the story behind the product- eg on a swing ticket.

• Support to ensure production lead times are met is important Engaging with the ITC Ethical Fashion Project:

• DSM would be interested in engaging with the project and potentially sourcing products from Africa. It would also be feasible to present samples to and engage Comme des Garcons and other designers stocked by DSM with the project.

Feedback on the look book , sample book, and product designs

• Fabric/ Sample book

• The fabrics and components in the sample book are interesting, and some could have a place, stocked in DSM- for example shirts made out of some of the boldly printed African fabrics.

• The original raw materials are enough. The designers additions through surface decoration add unnecessary detail. Everything shown in the Look Book needs to be able to be produced easily- so the techniques for embellishment or surface decoration need to be feasible in Africa/ where fabrics and components are sourced.

• DSM is more interested in the creativity of people in Africa, than the interpretations of European designers of African products.

• It is feasible that the designers of Comme des Garcons would be interested in the fabrics and components for collections. Feedback on specific samples and fabrics would need to come from Comme des Garcons designers/ design dept.

• Details of prices, quantities, and lead in times would be needed

• A3 Look Book

• This is not very useful.- forecasting books of this type are expensive and not of much value to designers.

• It could be helpful to know the story behind products- this is communicated to DSM customers on other products.

• The fabric swatches are much more useful.

• Product designs

• From the perspective of DSM, the products shown are over designed. DSM may be interested in stocking select products from Africa designed and produced by Africans, without being interpreted by European designers (eg DSM currently stocks a collection of Ethiopian scarves)

3.1.3 Vivienne Westwood Interviewee: Brigitte Stepputtis, Head of Couture

Attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• There is a market for high value ethically sourced fashion, however the market interest is mostly about the product, rather than the ethics behind it.

• Vivienne Westwood has looked at organic sourcing however this is not a focus for the label

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• Materials sourced to ethical criteria need to be developed in terms of: 1. range of interesting fabrics and designs 2. quality 3. being more in line with design trends and themes

Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Recommendations

• Materials and components need to be as easy to source, as high quality, and as competitively priced as fabrics from other sources- the project wont be successful if designers have to go out of their way to use these components.

• The project needs to acknowledge that designers work in different ways- while some have a standard product/ approach which may make it feasible to source the same fabrics several seasons running, Vivienne Westwood has to have a completely new product every season.

• The products may be more interesting to interiors and furniture designers- for example Conran


• All four components are important

• Direct liaison with producers can be time consuming and expensive for designers. This is because there can be problems over communication and different ideas about what is beautiful. In addition duty costs for samples can be high.

• Agents are one way to tackle this however agents costs an also be high.

• Therefore input at production and product design and specification stages is important- to make sure products meet quality requirements.


• Vivienne Westwood would be interested to be kept updated on progress of the project including information about products and workshops

• Before Vivienne Westwood could consider using any of the components in the Look Book/ Sample Book, they would need to know details of price, quantities and lead in times

• Workshops in Africa- whether V Westwood would be interested in taking part or having representatives at workshops would depend on time and resources.

Feedback on the look book , sample book, and product designs Sample book:

• The samples come across as rather “ethnic” in style – this would only be interesting if V Westwood had an African theme to collections

• The samples are not well suited to clothing- the majority would be better for accessories or interior products

• The raffia components are interesting- if there is an African theme- for accessories

• Tie dye products would be cheaper/ easier to source from India

• Some of the woven cottons are too rough to consider using for clothing

• However some of the finer printed cottons may be suitable.

• The beads are interesting for jewellery or accessories- but not to embellish fabric- this combination does not work well.

• The canvas could be useful for bags and shoes

• For Vivienne Westwood, most of these are made in Italy. It may be an idea to approach companies which supply canvas to designers, to stock this.

• Sisal- this is rough, even for bags, and would need to be lined

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• Bark cloth- this is one of the most interesting samples because it is new and has not been seen before.

• The bones- are unique and interesting. These could be used for beadwork, buttons, jewellery or functional components of clothing or accessories.

• It might be a good idea to promote the fabrics at a fabric fair or work with an agent to do this.

• The beadwork could be promoted at jewellery fairs such as that at Camden. A3 Look Book:

• The fabric samples are more interesting than the A3 Look Book. The images in the Look Book do not all link up with the samples in the fabric book.

• It would be interesting to see where the fabrics come from and the story behind them- particularly if this is to be made clear to consumers..

• The photographs of fabrics are not very useful/ interesting- the actual samples are better.

• The A3 Look Book has nice illustrations- but is not worth investing a lot of money in. Product Designs

• The product designs are useful to get an idea of the ways in which the fabrics & components could be used.

• More information is needed to back these up including details of materials / techniques used and prices

3.2 Mono Brand Stores

3.2.1 Marks & Spencers Interviewees: Katie Stafford (Sustainable Development Manager) and Gemma Saxon (buyer) Attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• Marks & Spencers experience with the food sector shows there is an increasing market for ethically sourced products. However in the case of foods, personal health comes into it.

• With fashion, decisions are made on the basis of how good it looks and how much it costs.

• Products need to be beautiful to command higher prices.

• Consumers are interested in the story behind the product- however product design and price is more important.

• Research suggests that consumers think that all M&S products are generally quite ethical.

• Ethical sourcing is very important to M&S and the company recently introduced its “Plan A” for ethical business practices.

• From website: Plan A is our five-year, 100-point plan to tackle some of the biggest challenges facing our business and our world. It will see us working with our customers and our suppliers to combat climate change, reduce waste, safeguard natural resources, trade ethically and build a healthier nation www.marksandspencers.com

• M& S has looked into stocking fair trade products and brands. However it is difficult for products sourced from small scale producers to comply with M&S social audits and health and safety requirements, which are stringent

• M&S would want to be sure that they were supporting sustainable business models and that changes in trends/ market focus would not result in producers having fluctuating/ unsustainable levels of orders. Producers may not be able to produce new products each season. There are also risks that orders do not arrive on time or to required standards.

• M&S is currently putting time and resources into sourcing fair-trade cotton.

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Encouraging ethical sourcing in the retail sector:

• The current buying structure in High St retail does not reward buyers for buying ethical products- the balance sheet is more important

• Buyers need to be able to prove that this is what consumers want

• There needs to be support at director level for ethical sourcing initiatives

• Sourcing to ethical criteria needs to be as easy as sourcing conventionally. Buyers need to be confident that the products will be developed on time and to required quality standards


• It is not possible for companies to liaise directly with many small producers in Africa. Intermediaries/ umbrella organisations/ agents are needed to simplify the liaison process.

• Business people are needed on the ground who know how to liaise with big retail businesses.

• Once the project is underway there are opportunities for companies to support upskilling/ technical training/ mentoring for sampling and quality management processes


• Market research is useful, however the opportunity to put the product before buyers is as important.

• Certification could be useful. DFID did some research on proposals to label food and household products from Africa “Product of Africa”

• Research suggested that this could take a lot of resources to achieve and may not encourage consumers to buy.

• It would be difficult to create another label with the status of the fair-trade label

• A sourcing agent/ company which would market products to several buyers may be one option to consider.


• M&S would be interested in engaging with the project- however would not be able to make orders on products until there are more guarantees in terms of price, delivery time and quantities, as well as product samples available to view.


• The fabric samples and components are interesting, however M&S would need more information in order to make orders- including information on price, quantities and lead in times.

• M&S would be more interested in product samples than fabric samples. Again price, lead in times, quantities and physical samples would be needed before orders could be made.

3.2.2 Monsoon/ Accessorize Interviewee: Gillian Lipton, Corporate Responsibility and Charity Manager (This interview was conducted by telephone and a follow up meeting was not arranged as there was not interest in viewing the Look Book- due to Monsoons sourcing focus on Asia)

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• There is a market for high value ethical fashion- ethically produced products are sold at a higher price through the internet. However there is still limited availability of ethically sourced products on the High St

• Monsoon is developing fair trade and organic ranges.

• A policy decision was made when fair trade lines were introduced not to charge more for them.


• There needs to be a better and more consistent supply of fabrics and components made to ethical, fair trade and organic criteria.

• More consumers need to demand ethically sourced goods.

• Sustainability is made difficult by a combination of lack of information/ awareness, poor communication between suppliers and buyers, and lack of product availability

• Education is needed both of consumers and the industry

• Premiums need to be justified by high quality products Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Recommendations

• The project could gain access to mainstream High St retailers through links with the UK Ethical Trading Initiative

• Jigsaw/ Jaeger/ and independent labels- for example brands at PURE should be considered- they may be interested in engaging with the project.


• Product design and quality is very important

• High st retailers don’t have much time to allow designers to work with suppliers.

• Monsoon would be unlikely to have the resources to play a liaison role with suppliers and do their own design in house for products made by small scale co-operatives and producers. Therefore investing in product design for products sourced through this project is important.

• Intermediaries/ agents would simplify the process, however could add to the cost

• Monsoon generally has several partner factories producing products. Monsoon creates the designs- which are then made in factories. Partner factories need to be qualified and experienced in the product design and quality Monsoon requires, and correspondence with factory representatives is quite sophisticated. Monsoon creates strict guidelines for these products to be made to.

• Certification is useful- but needs to be explained to consumers- eg through tags on products.

• If there is a premium price on products, then the story behind them needs to be communicated to consumers.

• Market research would be useful. Engaging with the ITC Ethical Fashion Project:

• Monsoons heritage is Asian and production is based there. Therefore Monsoon would be less interested in sourcing products from Africa at this stage. If the project expands to include fabrics and components sourced from Asia, Monsoon would be interested in engaging more closely with the project.


• Look Book not shown to Monsoon as they are currently focused on sourcing from Asia

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3.3 Multi brand retailers/ retail concept stores Please note: Information on the marketing concept and approach of these three stores has been drawn from web research, visiting stores and taking note of products stocked and price points, and company literature, as well as interviews.

3.3.1 Colette Interviewee: Nadege Winter, Head of Communications


• There is a market for ethically sourced high value fashion- but to be stocked in Colette, design comes first- the products need to look good and to fit in with the rest of the collection

• Colette has already stocked ethical brands such as Misericordia and has worked on an initiative with Anya Hindmarch.

• Colette also sells fashion by Indian designers, and has stocked jewellery from Morocco and North American Indian jewellery. The success of these products is all about the design input.

• Colette would definitely be interested in supporting ethical brands in the future. However the boutique would never stock exclusively ethical brands- ethical practices should become integral within all fashion production.

• Colette would take the approach of promoting the positive message alongside ethical fashion- rather than being alarmist about it.

• Colette’s client base are concerned about ethical issues. However when it comes to buying ethical products, most of them are more interested in the way the products look or celebrity links. Ethically sourced products sold in Colette have been successful because of the design or the celebrity links rather than because of the ethics.

• Parents are an important target when it comes to ethical issues- childrenswear ranges made to ethical criteria are likely to be successful


• At the moment the range of fashion products which have been made to ethical sourcing criteria is not big enough. Quality of design and finish needs to be better to allow Colette and other boutiques to stock more of these items.

• There are still negative perceptions about “ethical fashion” amongst consumers and buyers. Eco/ Bio products are still associated with a hippy or ethnic aesthetic

• Products need to be designed by international, young, fresh designers- to break the cliché of ethnic African/ Asian / South American style

• Designs need to make a statement beyond the ethnic- eg designers like Hussein Chalyan have cleverly mixed the modern , the occidental, with traditional culture and design

• Quality and range needs to improve

• Design and distribution needs to improve

• Leading designers need to become involved

• Ethical projects need to be seen as credible- for this certification and labelling is important Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Recommendations

• Designers will be concerned about maintaining the high quality of their products – they will not be willing to make compromises on quality.

• Designers and businesses will need support to ensure standards can be maintained and proof that it can work.

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• Information on the cost implications for designers to engage with the project will also be needed.


• The most important components of the ITC support project, from the perspective of Colette, would be:

• High design standards

• Distribution and delivery – delivering on time, overcoming delivery problems and costs Engaging with the ITC Ethical Fashion Project

• Colette would be interested in engaging with the project and would like to be kept updated on proposals.

• RE working with designers, sharing practices etc- more detailed information/ proposals would be needed in order to establish whether this is feasible or how it could work

• Maintaining long term relationships with suppliers; Colette does build relationships with brands which are successful with customers. However they are also always looking for new products and would not be able to guarantee long term or repeat sourcing relationships with suppliers


• The Look Book was not completed at the time of the Colette interview, however photographs of fabrics / components were discussed

• It was not possible for Colette to comment on the fabric samples- whether these would be successful or could be stocked in Colette would be down to the designers input and the final product design

Marketing concept

• Customers:

• A lot of people visit Colette from abroad- particularly from Japan, Arabic nations, and Russia

• Popular with both women and men

• All different ages- from 20 something to older men and women

• The shop is especially popular during fashion week

• Concept:

• Colette provides a platform to display the best new products in fashion, product design, accessories, graphic design and other areas. Colette is like a magazine, bringing together and presenting a selected range of products.

• Customers come to Colette because the pre-selection is already done- and they can find the best there, including new products, limited edition products, crazy designs, top quality items

• Colette is a showcase rather than a commercial opportunity for the brands it stocks- order sizes are small, ranging from 2 items in a collection to several hundred.

• Colette started off with a fashion focus and then books and other products were introduced downstairs. The store is like a big house where customers can find a selection of everything.

• The fashion gallery upstairs is about promoting style rather than dictating fashion. It is about how different brands and products can be mixed and about bringing life to the products.

• The store as a whole encompasses art, graphics, and aesthetic vision- fashion as a way of life.

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• Success:

• Colette is successful as a single shop but has no plans to become a chain- it needs to remain a one off.

• It has worked because customers know they can find the best at Colette.

• Ethical Fashion:

• Ethical Fashion initiatives should be showcased as an integral part of fashion ranges and not separately- the products need to be good enough to sit alongside the best mainstream designer ranges.

3.3.2 Dover Street Market Interviewee: Dickon Bowden , General Manager, Dover St Market Dover St Market (DSM) is a retail concept store initiated and run by Comme des Garcons. Dickon Bowden provided feedback on behalf of both Comme des Garcons and Dover St Market. Information on attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:, feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project, look book , sample book, and product designs, can be found in section 3.1.2, Comme des Garcons. Information on the marketing concept for DSM, below, has also been taken from the DSM website. Marketing concept

Customers

• DSM customers are generally quite aware of ethical issues.

• Customers are very international, and all ages, including students

• DSM attracts people who are interested in clever design and unique products Concept

• Dover Street Market aims to be respectful of tradition and creativity. Products are not stocked because they are fashionable- the emphasis is on good quality products and on innovation.

• DSM stocks luxury brands such as Lanvin, Azzedine Alaia and up-and-coming ones like Undercover and Jens Laugesen. Thirty percent of the shop is taken up by designer concessions, from whom Dover Street takes a small cut of their profits; 30 percent more goes to the smaller designers. Designers design their own spaces within the store, creating mini markets.

• DSM also has a bakery, and stocks a variety of non-label products- including exquisite, traditional, quirky and utilitarian- from all over the world.

• Rei Kawakubo on Dover St Market: I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos: the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision

Success

• DSM has become famous in fashion circles for its unusual approach to retailing, and as a place to find a mix of well known designer names and new up and coming talent.

• For the brands stocked it is valuable as a central London showcase- being a fashion destination, the shop attracts fashionistas, fashion buyers and press when visiting London.

• Because quantities stocked are small the store is more important as a showcase than a commercial opportunity for designers.

• DSM has increased sales of Comme des Garcons through attracting a different type of customer and showcasing CDG collections to a wider audience.

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Ethical Fashion

• Dover St Market stocks a number of labels working to ethical criteria

• DSM is particularly interested in craftsmanship and unique, beautifully crafted products, as well as traditional design

3.3.3 Topshop Attitude and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion:

• Topshop customers are becoming more aware of ethical and environmental issues.

• Topshop has set targets to achieve at least 5% of business fairly traded, and these targets have started to be reflected in business practices in the last 3-4 months

• Topshop stocks several fair trade/ organic fashion brands and has supported projects such as Design4Life Ghana and other initiatives.

• Through stocking fair trade products and labels Topshop aims to promote ethical fashion as being both wearable and beautiful. At present there is a need for this in order to change preconceptions about ethical fashion.. Fair trade/ ethically sourced products retailed in store at Topshop have had real success so far. Customers are really interested in the stories behind the products.

Encouraging ethical sourcing in the designer sector

• Awareness is key to encourage people to change.

• Work is needed on availability, timing and price of sustainable fabrics so that it can be accessible to the mass audience


• Link artisans or small producer groups and networks with larger production units (eg factories in Lesotho which have recently lost market access to China)

• Support producers, designers, and businesses in Africa through providing;

• Trend information and market training

• Improved local infrastructure- eg resolving issues of transportation

• Mentors

• Create opportunities for workshops/ forums which allow producers and designers to present their products and to also learn tools on how to supply different markets.

• Tell the stories behind the products- this is interesting to both buyers and to consumers

• It would be a good idea to network and link with major suppliers to the fashion industry (YKK – Zip suppliers etc) and Labs (testing fabrics – ITS, SGS)

• Consider linking with networks such as ASBCI (the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry)

• The project could build links with organisations such as WGSN to provide access to trend information for suppliers and producers in Africa


• Product Specification and Design: Input will be required from fabric consultants/ technologists.

• Manufacturing: The network of product development centres could be an important sourcing resource for retailers

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• Certification or labelling scheme- This would be useful however it would be important not to exclude suppliers from taking part in the scheme through any additional costs this may present

Engaging with the ITC Ethical Fashion Project

• Topshop would be interested in engaging with/ supporting the project

• This could be through selling the work of designers which have produced ranges using the products (in the same way that Topshop engages with MADE jewellery or the Design4Life Ghana project), or by sourcing the fabrics / components for their own product ranges

• With the right design, Topshop consumers would be interested in products sourced in this way

• Topshop would be interested to engage with local organisations, fashion designers, businesses or production units to provide mentoring, workshops and training, to share practice or exchange ideas

Feedback on the look book , sample book, and product designs Sample Book

• The samples and components are of interest , particularly for accessories and jewellery.

• If Topshop were to source the products for their own ranges they would need to know details such as price, quantities, minimum widths and basic information on composition and performance. Unembellished samples of the materials would also be interesting

A3 Lookbook

• It would be a good idea to include photographs and case studies in order to encourage interest and involvement in the project

• PDF/ powerpoint, or online versions presentations of these could be as good as a physical printed book

• Topshop would need supporting information on the communities from which products are sourced to accompany buying decisions

Product designs

• Topshop commissioned 5 samples to be made up as part of a pilot project, based on products designs and samples in sample book

Marketing concept Customer Topshops established market is young women, 14-25. However designer collaborations, Topshop designer lines, and concessions for up and coming designer labels in store have higher price points and have changed perceptions about the Topshop brand, attracting a different kind of consumer, fashion conscious, 25-35, willing to commit to a higher spend and looking for more unique and designer items. Concept Topshop has led the way on the UK high street in offering customers fashionable clothes at low price points. A continual ordering process means that there is always something new on the shelves. Topshop aligns itself with the glamour of designer fashion through linking with and supporting initiatives such as New Generation Designers at London Fashion Week and developing ranges in collaboration with designers. The Topshop Flagship store in Oxford St includes concessions for designers and was one of the first High St stores to include a vintage section. This meant that fashion conscious customers can find everything at the Topshop flagship store, from new designers, to designer topshop collections

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by well known names (such as Kate Moss) , to low cost fashion, to second hand clothing. This has made Topshop Oxford St a destination for fashion conscious consumers of all ages. Success Topshop is the UK no.1 high street fashion retailer in terms of sales. Ethical Fashion Because Topshop trades in small quantities and orders continually rather than seasonally, they have been able to engage with smaller organisations and projects aimed at creating sustainable market access for small producer communities. Topshops fashion lines can be made up of as little as 50 to 500 or 1000 units.

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4. SUMMARY OF RESULTS AND KEY RECOMMENDATIONS

4.1 Quick Reference table The table below outlines responses by each of the designer/ company representatives to yes/no questions in each section Ticks represent positive responses to questions Designer/ Retailer

A Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion

B Feedback on ITC project

C Feedback on fabric samples and look book

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Stella McCartney √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ Comme des Garcons √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ TBC √√√√ TBC

Vivienne Westwood √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ See note 1

Marks and Spencers √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ Monsoon/ Accessorize

√√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ See note 2

Colette √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ See note 3

Dover Street Market √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ TBC √√√√ √√√√ Topshop √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√ √√√√

TBC= To be confirmed Notes:

1. Vivienne Westwood would not be able to confirm any commitment until more information on sample prices, quantities and lead in times is available

2. Monsoon/ Accessorize currently source and produce all collections in Asia 3. Colette would not produce own collections but would be interested in stocking designer

collections which have engaged with the project providing design and quality standards are high enough

4.2 . Attitudes and approach to high value, ethically sourced fashion: Market for high value ethically sourced fashion:

• All subjects interviewed confirmed that there is a market for this

• Consumers generally considered to be more aware, and are interested in the stories behind the products

• There was a general consensus that the product and product design is of most importance- and the ethics come second

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Engagement with ethical sourcing and ethical fashion initiatives:

• 6 out of 8 businesses surveyed had already engaged with these issues through developing or stocking fair trade / organic/ ethically sourced ranges, and all six have proposals to expand on this

• Stella McCartney, M&S and Topshop have structured policies in place to achieve ethical sourcing targets

What is needed to encourage or support ethical sourcing practices for fashion? Feedback made reference to five key issues:

• Confidence in sources of supply:

• Ethical supply sources need to be able to compete with conventional supply- logistics and supplier capacities need to improve

• Buyers need confidence that products will arrive on time and to the correct specifications

• Range of fabrics and components:

• All respondents made reference to the range and quality of ethically sourced fabrics and components available to designers in the industry as a whole- this is limited

• Designers need to be inspired by the samples and products available

• Confidence in the market:

• Buying structures make it difficult to support ethical sourcing- as balance sheets are more important than ethics. Buyers need to be able to prove that this is what consumers want

• Getting the decision makers on board:

• Support is needed at director level for companies to change

• Buyers from key department stores need to be encouraged to support/ commission ethical designs from designers

• Education and awareness raising

• Needed amongst both consumers and buyers

• Involving leading designers and high profile people will help to raise awareness

4.3. Feedback on the ITC Ethical Fashion Support project Interest in engaging with the ITC ethical fashion support project

• All subjects interviewed expressed interest in engaging further with the project, including being kept updated of progress and / or playing and advisory or support role.

• Not all subjects were willing to share practice and exchange ideas with African designers- due to limitations on resources and time

• All interviewees would like to receive further information on fabrics and samples. Four out of 8 representatives expressed definite interest in using components sourced to ethical criteria from Africa in collections. See 4.1, Quick reference table, for further details.

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Recommendations on the ITC Ethical Fashion Project: Feedback made reference to five key issues:

• Working with Industry

• The ITC project should work closely with industry and major suppliers

• Engage suppliers to the industry- eg wholesalers and fabric mills

• Work with industry bodies, businesses and organisations- for example ASBCI (Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry) the ETI (Ethical Trading Initiative) and WGSN (Worth Global Style Network- includes trend and colour forescasting)

• Involve experts and specialist in an industry mentor system for suppliers

• Create a wholesaler/ agent

• Design led fashion generally demands new products every season, which could conflict with the goals to create sustainable market access for producers.

• All subjects interviewed made reference to the time and resource implications of working with suppliers and stressed the need for agents/ a wholesale company to play an intermediary role between designers and African producers and businesses. This would facilitate liaison, make sure products meet specifications, and create better market access for producers through marketing them to the industry as a whole

• Capacity on the ground

• Training and capacity building in Africa is important to ensure sustainable market access for producers (this is part of ITC support proposals)

• Business people who understand the market are needed in permanent positions working with/ representing producers and suppliers

• It was suggested that artisans or small producer groups and networks be linked with larger production units to increase capacity

• Support producers, designers, and businesses in Africa through providing;

• Trend information and market training

• Improved local infrastructure- eg resolving issues of transportation

• Mentors

• Tell the stories behind products

• The stories behind the products should be made clear both to buyers and to consumers- these can be used to support buying decisions

• Involve other market sectors

• Consider targeting childrenswear brands – parents are more aware and interested in the issues

• Target interiors and furniture designers and businesses- to which many of the fabrics and components are suited

Feedback on the 4 proposed areas of support of the ITC project (Market research, Product design and quality, Manufacture, and Certification)

• All proposed areas of support were considered important. However there was consensus that the link between design and manufacture is the most important component- including quality management, product specification, and meeting delivery schedules

• Support was expressed for workshops/ forums which allow producers and designers to present their products to buyers and to also learn tools on how to supply different markets.

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• Certification was generally considered important although perhaps more relevant to the High st than the designer sector- for small scale lines may be enough to tell the story

• There was concern that certified standards could be costly to monitor

• Certification may need to be explained to consumers- if there is a premium price on products, the story behind them needs to be communicated

• Market research was considered useful to help drive buying department decisions

4.4. Feedback on the look book, sample book, and product designs Products and samples of particular interest: Particular interest was expressed in the following fabrics/ components:

• Paper beads (Stella McCartney, Topshop)

• Raffia &woven straw/ reeds (Stella McCartney, Topshop, Dover St Market (unembellished))

• Woven plastic straws (Stella McCartney, Topshop)

• Printed cotton (Dover St Market (unembellished))

• Bark and bone (partly because they have not been seen/ used before) (Vivienne Westwood, Topshop, Stella McCartney)

• Canvas for bags or shoes (Vivienne Westwood)

• Masai beadwork (Topshop) Recommendations:

• Sample book

• Designers in particular (representatives of Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and Dover St Market) expressed a preference for unembellished samples (without embroidery and other design work on them) They would like to see the raw samples – although some stated that it could be useful to see examples of embellishment separately

• Embellishment would be interesting if designed / with design input from African designers and supports/ builds upon local supply chains

• Interest was also expressed in the yarns

• Representatives of High St retailers were more interested in embellished fabrics, as well as the product designs based on these

• The majority of samples and components were considered most suited to accessories, footwear, and interior product use. Interior & furniture designers should be approached for feedback.

• Consider promoting the fabrics and components at fabric fairs/ jewellery fairs

• In order to make orders on samples and components the following are needed:

• Lead in times

• Prices

• Quantities

• Also:

• Dye options

• Widths

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• A3 look book

• The A3 look book was considered less useful than the sample book. Photos of the fabrics were not considered very helpful and this concept of Look Book / trend forecasting book was considered outdated

• Images in look book need to link with fabrics/ products in sample book

• Interviewees would be more interested to see photographs/ stories behind the products- backed up with case studies/ methodologies and success stories regarding their use

• A conventional look book format may not be necessary- this information could also be shown through pdf/ powerpoint presentation/ online, or on post cards

• Product designs

• The products designs were considered more relevant to the High St sector than the designer sector (designers would want to do their own product design) However, the designs were useful so that designers could get an idea of how fabrics and components could be used

• More information is needed to accompany designs on pricing and materials used

• For High St stores making larger orders, physical samples would be needed to make sourcing decisions

4.5 Marketing concepts The analysis of the marketing concept and results behind Dover St Market (DSM), Colette, and Topshop revealed the following: DSM and Colette offer high profile opportunities to showcase fashion products in London and Paris.The main advantages for designers and brands stocked there lie in gaining access to fashion buyers , a high profile market for fashion, gaining prestige and press and media coverage. As quantities stocked are small, commercial returns for designers and businesses stocked in these stores are limited. Having product stocked in these locations would raise awareness of the ITC ethical fashion support project and the potential for sourcing from Africa, but would need to be planned alongside other market opportunities in order to create sustainable business models. The marketing concept behind Topshop shows that the High St can be relevant to designer fashion items/ higher price points and can engage with the project. As quantities and turnover are higher the commercial return for suppliers is potentially better.

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4.6 Key recommendations for the ITC Ethical Fashion Project The findings of this research suggest that:

• There is an expanding market for high value ethically sourced fashion

• Representatives of all the designers/ companies interviewed would be interested in engaging further with the project

• All four areas of support proposed by the ITC project are considered important- in particular the link between product design and manufacture

• The project should engage with industry organisations and bodies, consider setting up a wholesale distribution system/ agent, and involve other sectors of the industry such as childrenswear and interiors

• Involving key designers, key buyers, celebrities and high profile figures would be a good way to raise awareness of the project

• All of interviewees would like further information on samples and half of interviewees confirmed immediate interest in sourcing and using components from the sample book in collections/ stocking products in store

• For the designer sector, unembellished samples may be more appropriate

• For the High St / retail sector, product designs were most of interest

• Interviewees require information on price, quantities and delivery times in order to place orders

• Interviewees would like to see photographs and information on the stories behind the products rather than trend forecasting in the Look Book

• Products sourced through the project would benefit from raised profile rather than significant commercial return through being stocked in retail environments such as Colette and Dover St Market.

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ITC ETHICAL FASHION SUPPORT PROJECT The International Trade Centre is proposing an integrated project aimed at supporting and facilitating sustainable supply chain models for fashion, within the high value, designer and luxury goods sector. The first programme of support will focus upon sourcing from Africa and in particular from Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania. The goals of this initiative are as follows: • To allow international fashion companies to develop product lines that incorporate skills and materials from

Africa, in order to build sustainable trade relationships and reduce poverty • To develop local skills and build production capacity and quality management systems in developing

countries, through training and links with fashion market professionals • To provide the support and access to resources needed to create successful high end product lines,

produced in Africa, using locally sourced materials THE ETHICAL FASHION FORUM The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is a network of designers, businesses and organisations focusing upon social and environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. The EFF aims to reduce poverty and create sustainable livelihoods by supporting, promoting and facilitating innovative values led business practices within the garment industry.

The Ethical Fashion Forum, The Hub, 5 Torrens St London EC1V 1NQ t: 020 7841 8911 f: 020 7841 8999 e:[email protected] web: www.ethicalfashionforum.com

Front cover images: Materials and components photographed in Kenya, including bone, crochet work, Masai beadwork, recycled glass beads, and tie dyed fabric

international trade centre ethical fashion support...

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