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iday

• Ju

ne 1

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e N

o. 1

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riday

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008

Lure

of T

adic

Alli

ance

Spl

its S

ocia

lists

Whi

le y

oung

er S

ocia

lists

supp

ort j

oini

ng a

new

, pro

-EU

gov

ernm

ent,

old

Milo

sevi

c lo

yalis

ts th

reat

en re

volt

over

the

pros

pect

.

ED

ITO

R’S

WO

RD

Polit

ical

Pre

dict

abili

tyB

y M

ark

R. P

ulle

n

Man

y of

us

who

hav

e ex

peri-

ence

d nu

mer

ous

Ser

bian

ele

ctio

ns

rate

our

selv

es a

s pu

ndits

whe

n it

com

es t

o pr

edic

ting

elec

tion

re-

sults

and

pos

t-el

ectio

n m

oves

. W

e fe

el i

n-th

e-kn

ow b

ecau

se

our

expe

rienc

e of

ele

ctio

ns in

Ser

-bi

a ha

s sh

own

us th

at (a

.) no

sin

gle

part

y or

coa

litio

n w

ill ev

er g

ain

the

maj

ority

requ

ired

to fo

rm a

gov

ern-

men

t, an

d (b

.) po

litic

al n

egot

iatio

ns

will

neve

r be

quic

kly

conc

lude

d.Ev

en

whe

n th

e D

emoc

rats

ac

hiev

ed t

heir

surp

risin

g re

sult

at

last

m

onth

’s

gene

ral

elec

tion,

it

quic

kly

beca

me

clea

r th

at t

he r

e-su

lt w

as a

ctua

lly m

ore-

or-le

ss t

he

sam

e as

eve

ry o

ther

ele

ctio

n re

sult

in S

erbi

a, i.

e. in

conc

lusi

ve.

This

is li

kely

to c

ontin

ue a

s lo

ng

as

Ser

bia’

s po

litic

ians

fo

rm

new

po

litic

al

part

ies

ever

y tim

e th

ey

disa

gree

with

the

ir cu

rren

t pa

rty

lead

er (t

here

are

cur

rent

ly 3

42 re

g-is

tere

d po

litic

al p

artie

s in

Ser

bia)

. D

raw

n-ou

t neg

otia

tions

are

als

o th

e no

rm.

One

B

elgr

ade-

base

d A

mba

ssad

or r

ecen

tly t

old

me

he

was

als

o al

arm

ed b

y th

e di

stin

ct

lack

of

ur

genc

y am

ong

Ser

bian

po

litic

ians

. “T

he

coun

try

is

at

a st

ands

till

and

I do

n’t

unde

rsta

nd

thei

r lo

gic.

If

they

are

so

eage

r to

pr

ogre

ss t

owar

ds t

he E

U a

nd e

n-co

urag

e in

vest

ors,

how

com

e th

ey

go h

ome

at 5

pm s

harp

and

don

’t w

ork

wee

kend

s?”

Sur

ely

the

situ

atio

n is

ur

gent

en

ough

to w

arra

nt a

littl

e ov

ertim

e.

Cost

s M

ount

ing

Econo

mis

ts a

re w

arni

ng th

at p

ro-

long

ed un

certa

inty

over

Ser

bia’

s fu

ture

cou

ld sc

are

off i

nves

tors

, lea

d to

hig

her

infla

tion

and

jeop

ardi

se

pros

perit

y fo

r yea

rs to

com

e.“T

his y

ear h

as b

een

lost

, fro

m th

e st

andp

oint

of e

cono

mic

pol

icy,

” say

s St

ojan

Sta

men

kovi

c of

the

Econ

om-

ics I

nstit

ute

in B

elgr

ade.

Foot

ball

Rebe

llion

Whi

le th

e foo

tbal

l wor

ld w

atch

-es

eve

nts

unfo

ld a

t the

Eur

o-pe

an C

ham

pion

ship

s in

Aus

tria

and

Switz

erla

nd, B

osni

a is

exp

erie

ncin

g a

socc

er re

belli

on, l

ed b

y fa

ns, p

lay-

ers a

nd fo

rmer

star

s who

are e

nrag

ed

by w

hat t

hey

see

as c

orru

pt le

ader

s of

the

coun

try’s

foot

ball

asso

ciat

ion

lead

ers.

By

Rad

e M

aroe

vic

in B

elgr

ade

Tense

neg

otia

tions

on

a new

gov

-er

nmen

t hav

e di

vide

d th

e ra

nks

of t

he S

ocia

list

Party

, w

hich

hol

ds

the

bala

nce

of p

ower

bet

wee

n th

e m

ain

bloc

s an

d ha

s ye

t to

anno

unce

w

hich

side

they

will

supp

ort.

“It

look

s as

if

the

Soci

alist

s w

ill

mov

e to

war

ds a

gov

ernm

ent l

ed b

y th

e D

emoc

rats,

” po

litic

al a

naly

st M

i-la

n N

ikol

ic, o

f the

inde

pend

ent C

en-

tre o

f Pol

icy

Stud

ies,

said

. “Bu

t suc

h a

mov

e m

ight

pro

voke

dee

per

divi

-sio

ns a

nd e

ven

split

the

party

.”Si

mul

tane

ous

nego

tiatio

ns

held

w

ith th

e pr

o-Eu

rope

an a

nd n

atio

nal-

ist b

locs

hav

e dr

awn

atte

ntio

n to

a

deep

rift

insid

e th

e So

cial

ists.

This

divi

des

“old

-tim

ers”

lo

yal

to S

erbi

a’s

late

pre

siden

t, Sl

obod

an

Milo

sevi

c, a

nd r

efor

mist

s w

ho w

ant

the

party

to b

ecom

e a

mod

ern

Euro

-pe

an so

cial

dem

ocra

t org

anisa

tion.

Afte

r ei

ght

year

s of

sta

gnat

ion,

th

e So

cial

ists r

etur

ned

to c

entre

stag

e af

ter

win

ning

20

of th

e 25

0 se

ats

in

parli

amen

t in

the

May

11

elec

tions

.W

ith th

e pro

-Eur

opea

n an

d na

tion-

alist

blo

cs a

lmos

t ev

enly

mat

ched

, th

e So

cial

ists

now

hav

e th

e fin

al s

ay

on th

e fa

te o

f the

cou

ntry

.N

ikol

ic b

elie

ves t

he S

ocia

lists,

led

by I

vica

Dac

ic,

will

com

e ov

er t

o Ta

dic,

if o

nly

out o

f a p

ragm

atic

de-

sire

to e

nsur

e th

eir p

oliti

cal s

urvi

val.

“The

gro

up o

f yo

unge

r So

cial

ists

gath

ered

aro

und

Dac

ic s

eem

s to

be

in th

e m

ajor

ity”,

Nik

olic

said

, add

ing

that

thes

e ref

orm

ists b

elie

ve th

e par

ty

face

s ext

inct

ion

unle

ss it

cha

nges

. H

owev

er,

a str

ong

curre

nt a

lso

flow

s in

the

opp

osite

dire

ctio

n, l

ed

by p

arty

vet

eran

s en

rage

d by

the

pr

ospe

ct o

f a d

eal w

ith T

adic

.M

ihaj

lo M

arko

vic,

a f

ound

er o

f th

e pa

rty, r

ecen

tly w

arne

d of

a c

risis

if D

acic

opt

s fo

r th

e pr

o-Eu

rope

an

bloc

, aba

ndon

ing

the S

ocia

lists’

“nat

-ur

al”

ideo

logi

cal p

artn

ers.

Mar

kovi

c, a

pro

min

ent

supp

orte

r of

Milo

sevi

c du

ring

the

1990

s, is

seen

as

repr

esen

tativ

e of

the

“ol

d-tim

ers”

in th

e pa

rty w

ho w

ant t

o sta

y tru

e to

the

form

er r

egim

e’s

polic

ies,

even

thou

gh th

ese

alm

ost r

uine

d th

e So

cial

ists f

or g

ood.

So

me

youn

ger

Soci

alist

offi

cial

s ha

ve v

oice

d fru

strat

ion

over

the

con-

tinui

ng i

mpa

sse

with

in t

heir

own

party

ove

r whi

ch w

ay to

turn

. “T

he s

ituat

ion

in th

e pa

rty s

eem

s ex

trem

ely

com

plic

ated

, as

we

try

to c

onvi

nce

the

few

rem

aini

ng l

ag-

gard

s th

at w

e ne

ed t

o m

ove

out

of

Milo

sevi

c’s

shad

ow,”

one

Soc

ialis

t Pa

rty o

ffici

al c

ompl

aine

d.“D

acic

will

eve

ntua

lly s

ide

with

Ta

dic

in a

bid

to g

uide

his

party

into

th

e Eu

rope

an m

ains

tream

, but

muc

h of

the

mem

bers

hip

and

man

y of

fi-ci

als m

ay o

ppos

e th

at m

ove.

” N

ikol

ic a

gree

d: “

The

ques

tion

is w

ill th

e pa

rty s

plit

or w

ill th

e ‘o

ld-

timer

s’ ba

ck d

own,

” he

not

ed.

Fear

ing

they

mig

ht n

ot c

ross

the

5-

per-c

ent

thre

shol

d to

ent

er p

arlia

-m

ent,

the

Soci

alist

s te

amed

up

with

th

e Ass

ocia

tion

of P

ensio

ners

and

the

Uni

ted

Serb

ia P

arty

, led

by

busin

ess-

man

Dra

gan

Mar

kovi

c “P

alm

a”.

Pens

ione

rs le

ader

, Jov

an K

rkob

a-bi

c, P

alm

a an

d D

acic

are

all

push

ing

for a

dea

l with

the

Dem

ocra

ts.

The

repo

rted

pric

e is

the

post

of

depu

ty P

M, w

ith a

brie

f in

char

ge o

f se

curit

y fo

r the

Soc

ialis

t lea

der.

In a

dditi

on, t

he S

ocia

lists

are

bar-

gain

ing

for

othe

r m

inist

ries,

incl

ud-

ing

capi

tal i

nves

tmen

ts, K

osov

o an

d ed

ucat

ion,

Bel

grad

e m

edia

repo

rted.

Tadi

c ha

s de

nied

tal

k of

hor

se-

tradi

ng w

ith th

e So

cial

ists,

mai

ntai

n-in

g th

at m

inist

ries

wou

ld g

o on

ly to

th

ose

com

mitt

ed to

wor

king

for

the

gove

rnm

ent’s

“str

ateg

ic g

oal”

.A

t the

sam

e tim

e, D

acic

seem

s re-

luct

ant

to c

all

off

nego

tiatio

ns w

ith

the

natio

nalis

ts.“I

f w

e do

n’t

reac

h an

agr

eem

ent

with

the

DSS

and

Rad

ical

s, th

e pa

r-ty

lea

ders

hip

will

dec

ide

on f

utur

e ste

ps”,

Dac

ic a

nnou

nced

, fo

llow

ing

the fi

rst s

essio

n of

coun

try’s

new

par

-lia

men

t on

Wed

nesd

ay.

Sour

ce: B

alka

n In

sight

(www

.bal

kani

nsig

ht.c

om)

Bus

ines

s Ins

ight

Nei

ghbo

urho

od M

atte

rs

Soci

alis

t lea

der I

vica

Dac

ic re

mai

ns th

e Se

rbia

n ki

ngm

aker

page

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ge 1

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IS IS

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E O

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Continued on page 3 Continued on page 7

Experts believe Putin arrives in Serbia to test his influence on Belgrade’s government. Photo by Sergei Chirikov/AP

Reducing the grey or shadow economy could add millions of euros to Serbia’s budget - but the results so far have not been encouraging.

Serbia’s‘grey’economy resistsreform

Katarina MARKOVIĆ Stevan VELJOVIĆ

After years of unsuccess-fully hunting for work, V. Pavlović, 31, a graduate manager from Belgrade, got an opportunity to work

as a salesman in his cousin’s private firm. He was warned that he would not get

a contract and that his salary would not include any welfare contributions, but he still accepted it.

“I did not hesitate because I had no choice,” he said. “I have little work experi-ence, and no one helped me get a job in a state-owned company, so this was the best I could get,” he said.

He is pleased that the work seems to be going well - but doesn’t expect to get a regular contract any time soon. “The situ-ation on the market is difficult, so I don’t hope too much,” he concluded.

With 769,000 people officially seeking jobs in Serbia - an unemployment rate of 20.3 per cent - Pavlović is one of many people who are content to work without contracts, as long as they get paid.

A recent survey of the labour force showed that around a fifth of all those in work in Serbia work in the grey, or “shad-ow”, economy – which means they do not show up in job statistics.

Estimates about the total number of people working in the grey economy in Serbia range from around 400,000 to as much as 700,000.

Experts agree that a strengthened sys-tem of inspections is one way to tackle the phenomenon.

Gordana ANDRIĆ

Serbia is preparing a red-carpet welcome for Russia’s Vladimir Putin on October 16, promising a victory pa-rade on a scale not seen in

decades.Putin’s visit and the parade form part

of celebrations marking the 70th an-niversary of the liberation of Belgrade from Nazi German occupation.

“President Putin is coming as a rep-resentative of the army that participat-ed in the liberation of Belgrade,” said Milovan Drecun, one of the organisers of the parade, recalling the key role of the Soviet Red Army in 1944. “We also invited veterans from other allied countries,” he added.

Vladimir Putin will be using his forthcoming visit to Serbia to showcase Russia’s continuing influence in Eastern Europe, experts say.

Putin tests Russian power on Belgrade visit

Continued on page 2

Last pre-war salon is

hair to stay

Page 4

October Salon: Snapshots of a

disappearing world

Page 10

Gordana ANDRIĆ

The decision of the broad-caster B92 to axe a flagship of independent journal-ism – the political show “Utisak Nedelje” – has

raised a storm in Serbia among journal-ists and media observers.

“How is it possible that something that [the former strongman Slobodan]

Milosevic didn’t do - something that no one ever thought to do - he has done now?” Olja Bećković, the show’s author and host, said, clearly blaming Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić for the death of her 24-year-old TV pro-gramme.

She painted a disturbing picture of a media scene in Serbia in which there is apparently no room any longer for shows such as hers.

“You have a media landscape where all the televisions belong to one man,” Bećković told RTV Vojvodina, concern-ing Vučić.

Bećković is not alone in her concerns about the fate of the Serbian media gen-erally.

Many experts say B92’s decision to scrap “Utisak Nedelje”, as part of a broad switch to entertainment-based pro-grammes, will further damage the me-dia, reducing the space for independent reporting and free, critical voices.

As the pro-government national broadcaster, Pink, may now try to step in and replace B92 as the leading news

station in the commercial sector, ana-lysts are worried that the gap will be not be filled.

B92 is one of four TV stations with national coverage in Serbia. The other three are the state-funded broadcaster, RTS, and the entertainment channels, Pink and Prva.

B92 announced that “Utisak Nedelje” was going into storage on September 26th following failed negotiations with Bećković. She claimed the show had been banned.

Talk show’s death raises fears for Serbia mediaB92’s decision to ditch the iconic politics show ‘Utisak Nedelje’ will impoverish the media in Serbia, analysts believe.

Hidden treasures of

Kalemegdan

Page 9

Issue No. 169 Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

2 3BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

SERBIA SERBIA

Olja Bećković and her programme “Utisak Nedelje” have been on air since 1991.

Continued from page 1

The management said B92 had offered Bećković a chance to continue broad-casting on its low-viewer rat-ing cable channel, B92 Info,

after November.Announcing its decision, B92 said the

overall aim was to focus more on enter-tainment and commercial programmes while transforming the by far less-watched cable channel, B92 Info, into a high quality informative channel.

SWITCH BLAMED ON POLITICS

While B92 has justified its decision to switch to entertaining programmes on the grounds of commercial interests, Bećković and other journalists express strong doubts.

Bećković said she could not accept that B92’s decision was led by profit concerns because her show was the most-watched programme on the entire station and one of the few that earned money.

“They offered me 30 per cent more money to transfer to cable channel. How could it be profitable to pay me more - and send me to a channel where I cannot earn them anything?” Bećković asked on Sep-tember 29th.

B92 journalists who work for the sta-tion’s investigative show, “Insajder”, have meanwhile expressed concern about the fate of their own programme.

The team, whose show is also due to transfer to B92 Info, said they had asked for more time to prepare for the change.

“The insistence of B92’s owners that this starts in November, when it is clearly impossible to prepare a serious pro-gramme scheme in such a short time, has

led us to question whether the owners truly aim to develop a serious info chan-nel, or whether this is just a way to ditch ‘Utisak Nedelje’, and then very soon ‘In-sajder’ as well,” the journalists said in a statement.

“Insajder”, which B92 has aired since 2004, is one of the few investigative pro-grammes on Serbian television today. It has received numerous awards. Branka Stanković, the anchor, has been under police protection since 2010.

NO ONE TO FILL THE GAP

Media experts say B92’s switch to en-tertainment programmes will leave the media scene impoverished.

“I would be glad for some other station with a national frequency to become a symbol of independent, objective and unbiased journalism - but I do not see anyone in Serbia becoming that,” Boban Tomić, a professor at the Faculty for Me-dia and Communications, told BIRN.

Vukašin Obradović, head of the Inde-pendent Journalists Association of Ser-bia, NUNS, was one of the organisers of a protest against the cancellation of “Utisak Nedelje” on September 28th in front of B92 building.

He said the protest was not only about Bećković’s show but reflected “deep con-cern about the narrowing of the freedom of thought and expression” in general.

“Although B92 has already commer-cialised its programming… it has played an important role concerning pluralism in the media,” Obradović told BIRN.

He believes that the role of Serbia’s public broadcaster will now grow, owing to the lack of competition in news pro-grammes. However, he doubts that RTS

will easily replace the position that B92 once held.

“I am not sure they will manage to do so but RTS should be reminded that al-though B92 was a commercial station, it used to fulfil the role that the pub-lic broadcaster is supposed to have,” Obradović said. “Now RTS should step in.”

Jovanka Matić, a media expert, told BIRN that there was a political back-ground to the significant changes occur-ring on the media scene in Serbia.

“This government needs public sup-port for the reforms it needs to conduct and such support in Serbia can only be obtained through the media,” she said.

“This influence is rather authoritarian… They do not want to have any media that maintain a critical distance,” Matić added.

She believes that the more pro-govern-ment channel, Pink, which has gained a huge public following from its entertain-ment programmes, is stepping in to take the lead role among commercial stations in informing the public.

“The huge change that we are witness-ing is that Pink is profiling itself as a me-dia outlet with an important informative role,” she said.

“They are strengthening their capaci-ties for news and political programmes, as we all witnessed when they reported on the [May] floods - and when they were

the only national frequency TV broad-casting live press conference from the government,” Matić added.

“While the channel that traditionally had credible reporting [B92] is going into a ditch, Pink is becoming the lead source of information for the audience that it gained through its entertaining pro-grammes,” Matić continued.

BALANCE BECOMING LOST

When TV stations competed to obtain national frequencies in 2006, they all were obliged to submit their general programme concepts. These concepts were one of the factors that the Broadcasting Agency con-sidered when it issued licences.

Thus, when the stations obtained per-mits to broadcast nationally, a balance was struck between stations with an en-tertainment-based profile and others that accented news.

Experts say that balance is being lost, and doubt the Broadcasting Agency will do much to re-establish it.

“The Broadcasting Agency has given up following up whether televisions are respecting their programme concepts,” Matić said.

In theory, the agency might establish that the initial concept has been violated and issue a warning to the broadcaster.

But, according to information BIRN has obtained, the agency is not intending to react to the change in B92’s programme concept, as existing laws in the field do not provide specific instructions for such action.

Boban Tomić told BIRN that broad-casters are obliged to keep to the original programme concepts that they outlined when they got their licences.

However, the state “has not defined… the extent to which programmes may be modified during the duration of the license,” he explained.

Bećković, meanwhile, fears there will be no reaction to media scene change ei-ther at home or abroad.

Back in 1990s, she said, “European insti-tutions would have reacted but now you see that this does not concern them”, she said.

“They [Europeans] have their own pri-orities and as long as the [Serbian] govern-ment follows them, it can do whatever it wants on other issues,” she added.

“He [Prime Minister Vučić] knows that and enjoys it,” Bećković told RTV Vojvo-dina.

“In the Nineties, you had some hope, you fought and you won. And now the same things we fight against are back. People have nothing to hope for,” she con-cluded.

Talk show’s death raises fears for Serbia media

The source says Putin’s visit to Belgrade is Moscow’s way of demonstrating its power in the Balkans. Photo by Alexei Druzhinin

Continued from page 1

Serb

ia in

bri

ef

Experts believe that Putin is making use of the 70th anni-versary celebration to consol-idate Serbian influence in Ser-bia, where the government is

trying to balance traditional ties to Slavic Russia with aspirations to join the EU.

Serbia, meanwhile, has its own agen-da. It wants to send Europe a message that it has an alternative to the EU path, in order to improve its negotiating posi-tion with Brussels.

Serbia is one of only a few European countries not to have imposed sanc-tions on Russia in response to its role in the crisis in Ukraine.

Belgrade has maintained a neutral position in the dispute, while reaffirm-ing that it respects the territorial integri-ty of Ukraine, including its sovereignty in Crimea.

Putin is visiting Belgrade on October 16th at the invitation of Serbian Presi-dent Tomislav Nikolić.

“Talks with Tomislav Nikolić and conversations with Serbian Prime Min-ister Aleksandar Vučić are to focus on key issues of bilateral cooperation, pri-marily in trade and the economy,” Pu-tin’s office said.

The high-profile nature of the visit has raised eyebrows among diplomats. Michael Kirby, the US ambassador to Serbia, complained that the purpose of the visit remained unclear.

“Why is he coming? To attend the cel-ebration of the liberation of Belgrade? Belgrade was liberated also by the Third Ukrainian Army, as a part of the Red Army,” the diplomat asked earlier this month.

“If Putin is invited, are all others who participated in the liberation [of Bel-grade] also invited?” Kirby added.

A source from the EU told BIRN that the main topics up for discussion be-

tween Putin and Belgrade would in-clude the South Stream gas pipeline and Serbian food exports to Russia.

After the Kremlin banned imports of food from the EU in response to West-ern sanctions, Serbian producers spied a new opportunity to place products in the Russian market.

However, Brussels then warned Ser-bia, as an EU candidate country, against “exploiting new trading opportunities arising from the introduction of these [Russian] measures”.

Brussels has also put pressure on Belgrade to abandon its plans to partici-pate in the Russian-run South Stream pipeline.

The EU maintains that South Stream is not being built in line with EU stand-ards, which Serbia needs to follow as a candidate country. Brussels also wants to reduce Europe’s dependence on Rus-sian energy.

However, the EU source told BIRN that the Serbian government was still trying to use the current standoff be-tween Russia and Europe for its own benefit.

The visit will certainly boost the gov-ernment’s popularity among ordinary Serbs, who mostly cherish Russia as an historic ally. All of this could be used to increase Serbia’s negotiating position with the EU.

Food exports would only be a mi-nor item on the agenda, the EU source remarked. “Serbia cannot produce enough food to be important for the Russian market,” the source said.

“What Putin wants is to show that his power stretches further than Ukraine. The visit is his demonstration of power in Southeastern Europe. “He wants to show that Russia can disturb the Bal-kans,” the source added.

Boško Jakšić, an international rela-

tions analyst, said the visit comes at a time when both Brussels and Moscow are pressuring Serbia to line up with their side.

“Both Russia and the Western coun-tries are now trying to bring their allies closer in line. Russia’s interest now is to confirm its influence in Southeastern Europe,” Jakšić told BIRN.

“Serbia’s current neutrality over Ukraine actually benefits Russia, not the EU,” Jakšić added.

Jelena Milić, director of the Centre for Euro-Atlantic Studies, CEAS, a think tank, said she doubted that Putin’s visit was Belgrade’s own idea.

“I believe the Russians invited them-selves. They want to test their position and importance in Serbia,” Milić said.

“The parade was only definitively announced after Putin confirmed his visit. The celebration is just an excuse,” she added. “It will draw attention away from the fact that in just one week, Ser-bia made three important steps, deep-ening ties to the West.”

One came at September 25th, when Serbia announced it would soon sign an Individual Partnership Action Plan as part of the Partnership for Peace, PfP, programme between Serbia and NATO.

The PfP programme is the first stage towards membership of NATO.

Aleksandar Vučić, the Prime Minis-ter, has also assured Washington of its complete support in the US-led fight against the Islamic State militants in Iraq and Syria.

Finally, bowing largely to EU pressure on this issue, on September 28, Serbia also ensured the success of the first Gay Pride parade in Belgrade in several years.

“These three things have all signifi-cantly distanced Serbia further from the Russian regime,” Milić observed.

Police who assaulted PM’s brother suspended

Five members of the special Gendarmerie police unit were suspended on October 1st for beating up the Prime Min-ister’s brother, Andrej Vučić, and his security team. An investigation into the case is ongoing. Members of the Gen-darmerie assaulted the men in Belgrade on September 28th when the Gay Pride parade was taking place. Some media reports said Vučić and his team refused to show their IDs while trying to cross police lines guarding the parade. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić has, however, dismissed such claims.

Balkan states cut mobile roaming charges

Following the EU’s example, regulators in four Balkan countries - Montenegro, Bos-nia and Herzegovina, Macedo-nia and Serbia - on September 29th agreed to slash mobile phone roaming charges, which are much higher than in West-ern Europe. The agreement signed in Budva, Montenegro, prescribes fees being cut in phases over three years. Ko-sovo, Albania and Turkey have been invited to be part of the new lower-price roaming zone.

Serbia urged to reconsider sanctions on Russia

Johannes Hahn, the EU’s new neighborhood and enlarge-ment commissioner, on October 1st urged Serbia to consider its decision not to support EU sanctions against Russia in connection to the crisis in Ukraine. Hahn said that if Belgrade wanted to move further in the direction of EU membership, “the signal [it sends concerning Rus-sia] will have to be the right one”. Hahn officially takes up his post on the Commission on November 1st. Following Hahn’s statement, Aleksandar Vučić, Serbian Prime Minister, declined to refer directly to the Russian issue. Serbia would “certainly continue reforms, continue on its path towards the EU and do its best to meet all its obligations”, he remarked.

Students protest over funding cuts

Around 500 students of Belgrade University blocked the streets in the center of the city on October 1st to protest against amendments to the Law on Higher Education. Students protested against new regulations that have cancelled numerous financial subsidies and benefits and the deadline in which students’ must finish their studies. They have announced a major protest on October 15th.

DANAS, October 2nd

NO CHETNIK INSIGNIA AT MILITARY PARADE

Despite a Serbian policy of rehabilitating the wartime royalist Yugoslav Chetnik movement, no Chetnik insignia will be displayed during the military parade marking the 70th anniversary of the liberation of Belgrade on October 16th, Defence Minister Bratislav Gašić told Danas daily. The reason for that is that “the Chetniks did not participate in the liberation of Belgrade in WWII,“ Gašić noted.

INFORMER, October 2nd

FLOOD-HIT ROADS REBUILT TO TIMETABLE

Serbia rebuilt 142 kilometres of flood-demolished roads by October 1st, as was promised, Transport and Infrastructure Minister Zorana Mihajlović told the daily Informer. “We still have to repair landslides and bridges, and our plan is to finish that by the end of this year,“ Mihajlović said, adding that money had been ensured for the work.

KURIR, October 2nd

POLICE CHIEFS BLAMED FOR EMBASSY ATTACKS

A working group investigating the torching of the US and German embassies in Belgrade in 2008 after Kosovo declared independence has blamed three senior police officials for failing to control the violent street protests. However, whether the officers will face charges remains unclear, Kurir said it had learned from police.

BLIC, October 2nd

TEACHERS’ PROTESTS ‘UNREALISTIC’

After four education unions announced protests against wage cuts in the public sector, Education Minister Srđan Verbić said that they had every right to feel dissatisfied. However, “excluding the education sector from planned salary reductions is not possible”, Verbić told Blic daily. He added that his ministry had worked hard to improve teachers’ positions.

INFORMER, October 2nd

B92 TV OWES BANK RENT

Serbia’s flagship broadcaster B92 owes more than €800,000 in rent to the National Bank of Serbia. B92’s leadership was informed earlier this week that the bank will not tolerate the debt any longer. “The debt has to be repaid or the bank will block its account and move the TV station out of the building,” Informer quoted a source from the National Bank as saying.

BIRN has not verified the reports and cannot vouch for their accuracy.

Putin tests Russian power on Belgrade visit

PRESS REVIEW

Photo by Media Centre Belgrade

4 5BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

“I want

to keep this

going - that

is what I am fighting for.”

Veljko Veselinov

plains, recalling the many people who have signed their names so far.

The walls are covered with framed clips from different newspapers that have carried reports on the salon, but one item of memorabilia stands out – a replica on the wall of a French street plaque that says “Avenue of King Peter”.

Veselinov says he got the real street sign from a customer who stole it from the street in Paris and gave it to him in 1988.

Veselinov now has a replica of it for his salon, while the original hangs on a wall in one of Belgrade’s oldest kafanas, the cafe “?”.

While his father, Sava, opened the salon before the Second World War, Veljko took over the shop in 1983.

“My father used to play football for the Yugoslav national team and the whole of the Red Star football club used

to come here,” the 62-year-old says. “One thing that he taught me is that

this craft is learned in the salon, not at school,” he adds.

Veselinov was not always a hair-dresser. He helped his father during his school days, earning pocket money. But back in those days, it was just a part-time job.

After he graduated with a master’s degree in economics, he found a job in the government. But, one day, he quit. “I left my job to save my father’s salon,” the ex-economist explains.

“As Miodrag Bulatović, a very kind cli-ent of mine and a great writer, wrote in my guestbook – what is important is tra-dition and durability,” Veselinov recalls.

BELGRADEBELGRADE

Belgrade-Tirana direct flights launched

Air Serbia, the country’s national airline, re-established regular service between Belgrade and Tirana on September 27th after a five-year hiatus. There are now flights three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. “The re-introduction of services to Tirana benefits more than two million of the Albanian diaspora in Europe with increased travel options and connectivity over our Belgrade hub to their homeland,” said Air Serbia’s Chief Executive Officer, Dane Kondić, adding that the flights could also boost tourism to Albania.

Europe’s children gather for dance festival

The annual gathering of children from around Europe to showcase their cultures through music and dance, ‘Joy of Europe’, will take place from October 2nd to 5th. The festival brings together children aged from seven to fourteen from all around Europe and will start with a carnival and procession through the centre of the city. As well as displays of traditional dance and music, there will be an art competition, an entertainment programme at Ada Ciganlija, a gala concert at the Sava Centre and a big party to conclude the festivities.

Mayor announces five new industrial zones

The new city master plan, which is to be adopted early next year, envisages the establishment of five new industrial zones in the capital, the mayor of Belgrade, Siniša Mali, has announced. Lots of companies and factories will be located close to main roads in order to be more attractive to potential investors. According to the City’s Department of Urban Planning and Construction, incentives will be given to projects that are most likely to create new jobs.

Belgraders told to get ‘EU-style’ post-boxes

Belgrade residents have been told to change their old post-boxes and buy new ones that meet EU standards by January 1st or face fines. The Regulatory Agency for Electronic Communications and Postal Services says that the standardisation of post-boxes is necessary so that people can receive packages properly. Replacement boxes cost between five and fifteen euros, and next year inspectors will be deployed with the ability to levy fines for non-compliance ranging from €20 to €50.

Bel

grad

e in

bri

ef

If you walk down Knez Mihailova Street, you’re likely to see graffiti of a bulldog with thought bubbles offering philosophical slogans to passers-by. Called Yoda after the ‘Star Wars’ charac-ter, the dog is the work of an artist called Nique, who says his intention is to inspire pedestrians and make them think. “I want to bring more positive energy and laughter to people,” he told

daily newspaper 24 Sata. This one reads “Ignorance creates fear”, and is followed by one that says “Fear creates violence”.

Hid

den

Bel

grad

e

Ivana NIKOLIĆ

Entering the Gentlemen’s Hairdresser Salon at Terazije 13 is like travel-ling back in time to the 1930s, when the salon first

opened. The equipment of the salon, which

opened before the Second World War in 1938, is neatly stacked on a shiny wooden desk. In front of large mirrors stands a row of old-fashioned hair-dresser’s chairs.

On these chairs once sat Serbia’s Crown Prince, Petar Karađorđević, as well as numerous politicians, sports-men, artists, ambassadors and other notable people who come here to have their hair cut.

“We have been here at the same ad-dress for 76 years,” Veljko Veselinov, the owner, says proudly, as we sit at a table in front of his salon.

As he stands up and walks into the shop, Veselinov points to the fa-mous chairs that date back to 1938, just like the vast majority of things in the salon.

“These chairs were ideally made, which is obvious - they still work,” he says with a smile. “Both a boy and a man weighing as much as 200 kilos can sit here. In those days, craftsmen knew their job,” Veselinov adds.

The history of the salon and its clien-tele is preserved in a guestbook. Only customers may write their names in it. “The only condition for filling the guest-book is being a client,” Veselinov ex-

Since the salon opened, many things have changed beyond recognition in Serbia. The clients switched from roy-alty to communist leaders. Hairstyle trends have changed again and again.

Although it describes itself as a “gen-tlemen’s salon”, women are now also customers and Veselinov is especially proud of one former client.

“One of my clients was the late Veri-ca Barać. She was a great woman, and I admire intelligent and brave women,” the hairdresser says, recalling the for-mer head of Serbia’s Anti-Corruption Council.

“Alisa Marić, a chessplayer, also comes here, as well as some ambassa-dors and government ministers,” Ves-

elinov continues, without naming his clients.

Nowadays, however, it is getting hard-er to survive, he says. “Fifteen years ago, I used to have eight employees,” Vesel-inov says. Now there are only two.

As Serbia’s cash-strapped govern-ment cuts salaries and pensions in pur-suit of austerity policies, “people don’t feel like having their hair cut,” Vesel-inov remarks.

However, on the day of our visit, there is no shortage of customers. “To-day, I do have a couple of clients,” he says, looking at his wristwatch.

Not all of them pay up. He recalls one client who came in dressed like a per-fect gentleman with a brief case. After

his hair was cut, he pulled out his wallet and handed over an identity card.

“I’ve asked him why I would need his ID card and he replied ‘So you can sue me, because I am not going to pay.’

“Then he said goodbye, but came back in a few seconds later, as he had forgotten his briefcase. I never saw him after that,” Veselinov says.

He hopes that the family tradition will survive and that the guestbook will continue to fill up if his younger daughter takes over. His elder daughter already runs her own salon.

“I want to keep this going - that is what I am fighting for,” he says. “Work-ing with people can be hard, but it’s nice as well,” he concludes.

Last pre-war salon is hair to stay

About 30,000 children live in illegal settlements in Belgrade.

Veljko Veselinov shows his famous chairs that date back to 1938.

Photo by Susan/Flickr

Having survived wars and various changes of regime, the family-run Gentlemen’s Hairdresser Salon is still in business, after 76 years.

“The city of Belgrade will adopt strategic documents in order to improve the po-sition of the Roma

people in Belgrade, and one of the main goals will be solving the housing prob-lem of families living in illegal settle-ments,“ Jasmina Ivanović, the city’s sec-retary for welfare, told daily newspaper Večernje Novosti on Septmeber 28th.

The authorities’ promise came after three Roma children died in a fire dur-

With daily tourist expenses of €41 on average, Belgrade is the cheapest European city

to visit, ADAC, the largest automobile club in Europe, said this month.

“We compared restaurant prices, prices of tourist attractions, museums, guided tours, daily public transport fares, as well as things tourists need during the day – snacks and postcards,“ Wolfgang Sigler, a survey coordinator at ADAC, told Deutsche Welle.

“We also compared prices of body care products and cosmetics, in case

ing the night between September 25th and 26th in an illegal settlement in New Belgrade. A cardboard hut in which they lived reportedly caught fire after a candle fell on paper and they couldn’t escape the flames.

Following the children’s death, their mother was arrested for threatening public safety, the prosecution said.

The accident put the neglected ille-gal settlements on the public agenda, highlighting the threats to people living in such huts made from cardboard car-tons without water or electricity.

“In these wild settlements, fires happen almost every day,“ Darko Glavaš, the head of city utilities service Beokom, told Večernje Novosti.

Another problem remains the lack of any precise headcount of the people living in such accommodation, Glavaš said.

“The majority of the inhabitants have no identification documents, which is why we cannot have a precise num-ber. Nevertheless, our estimation that 100,000 people are living in those set-tlements is based on fieldwork, and around 30,000 of them are children,” Glavaš said.

There are reported to be around 200 illegal settlements in Belgrade.

someone forgot to bring them on the trip,” he added.

ADAC’s research team concluded that for €12 a day, a tourist in Belgrade can pay for public transport, go on a guided tour, visit a zoo and the Kale-megdan fortress as well as get a ticket for the National Museum.

At the other end of the list lies Norwe-gian capital Oslo, where a tourist would have to spend around €150 a day and a similar daytime programme would cost €70, according to ADAC.

Belgrade named cheapest European destination

The city authorities promised to finally help the inhabitants of the illegal settlements after three Roma children died when a cardboard hut burned down in New Belgrade.

Serbia’s capital tops the list of the 20 most affordable tourist destinations in Europe, says a new survey by German automobile club ADAC.

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One problem is that the tax incentives aimed at stimulating the growth of official employment are modest.

The relief measures are also only temporary, as there is no room in the squeezed budget for permanent reduc-tions of the fiscal burden on labour, Ranđelović said.

IMPROVING REGULATIONS

Inspections are one of the main tools

for tackling unregistered labour, but their achievements have not been im-pressive.

Employers’ associations complain about the unfair competition they face from unregistered companies, over which labour inspections have had no control.

At the same time, companies that oper-ate legally and above board are routinely visited by inspectors and often fined for multiple offences.

The announced adoption of the new law on inspections should make inspec-tions more effective by allowing inspec-tors to monitor unregistered labour more easily.

Some improvements have already been made with the adoption of amend-ments to the existing Labour Law.

Penalties have also been raised on companies employing unofficial work-ers to between 800,000 and 2,000,000 dinars [€6,700 to €16,800].

The Labour Inspectorate told BIRN that, from June to mid-September, they increased the number of extraordinary inspections, especially in the security, construction, catering and fruit and veg-etable processing industries.

“The result of preventive actions, tar-geted controls and effective treatment is that employers have given contracts to 12,240 persons [over this period],” they said.

But they also warn that without significant reforms of the tax system, cutting the tax burden on modest salaries, not much progress can be expected.

REDUCING THE SHADOW ECONOMY

Recent research on the shadow econo-

my in Serbia suggests that it is responsible for as much as 31 per cent of Serbia’s GDP.

If correct, that would be around 5 per cent more than in the other countries of Central and Eastern Europe.

Saša Ranđelović, an economist, said Serbia should strive to reduce the shad-ow economy to the same level as those countries over the next few years.

“This would bring in an about €300 million in extra tax, which is another 1 per cent of GDP,” he noted.

He said that €100-€150 million of this would come from curbing illegal trading in goods and services and another €150-€200 million from growth in revenues from taxes and contributions due to the reduction in illegal work.

“The effective suppression of unreg-istered trading in goods and services would close off a substantial source of funding for undocumented workers and wages, which would contribute to reduc-ing undeclared work,” he observed.

Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić told state TV RTS on September 18th that the government intended to do more to tack-le the grey economy, calling on ordinary people to insist on proper receipts for pur-chases.

In May, the government introduced a package of relief measures for employers willing to give contracts to their unregis-tered workers.

However, in spite of this and other in-centives, the total number of registered employees in Serbia remains lower in 2014 than in 2013.

“Joint actions with the tax office, coop-eration with the central social insurance register and support from the police have all contributed to the results,” they added.

For example, in one inspection, inspec-tors found that 96 out of 135 employees of a shoe manufacturer in southern Serbia were working without contracts.

Since the inspection, half of that num-ber have received contracts while oth-ers are in the process of registering, they maintained.

REVENGE OF THE ENTREPRENEURS

However, some entrepreneurs say the inspection system is still not working.

They say that the aim is not to tackle the shadow economy, but to increase budget revenues by charging lawful com-panies with yet more penalties.

“All inspections try to fill the budget and prove themselves to their respective ministers,” Žarko Milisavljević, the head of one private chamber of commerce, said.

The fines levied on small and medium-sized companies were also too high, he added.

“Work in the grey zone is a form of revenge that entrepreneurs take on the state, for the high penalties they charge,” he continued.

“For every charge they are made to pay, they immediately look to compen-sate for that loss in the shadow economy.”

This businessman said that without changes to tax policy and without reduc-tions of the tax burden on low earners, employers will not change their minds when it comes to giving contracts to their workers.

“There are no quick solutions,” he warned. “Even if the tax burden was low-ered, it would still take from three to five years for most employers to quit the grey zone.”

Serbia’s ‘grey’ economy resists

reform

Continued from page 1

Saša Ranđelović believes Serbia could earn €150- €200 million from taxes and contributions due to the reduction in illegal work. Photo by Media Centre Belgrade

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8 9BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

OUT AND ABOUT

Ivana NIKOLIĆ

“Son, have you ever heard the real sto-ry about The Vic-tor?” an old man asks his grandson as they stand be-

low the famous 14-metre-high column on a sunny late-September day.

As the boy shakes his head, the grandfather continues. It was built to commemorate Serbia’s victory over the Ottomans and Austrians during the Balkan wars and World War One, he says, but the unknown part of the tale is yet to come.

The authorities initially wanted to place the monument in Terazije, in the city centre, but then found another loca-tion in the city’s Kalemegdan Park. And so the grandfather explains the story.

“They put him here because they wanted him to look proudly towards the Austrians while he turns his back

Saše DIMOVSKI

“My granddaughter is not the only one recruited to go to Syria,” said the grandfather

of the 15-year-old girl who has been miss-ing from Macedonia since July 15th - and who is believed to have joined Syrian Is-lamists.

He said he had wanted to alert the pub-lic right away about his granddaughter but the police dissuaded him from doing so for two months.

“The police advised me to keep silent, so as not to harm the investigation. They kept assuring me that the girl would come back,” the grandfather said in mid-September.

The man, known only as V. Z. - he has insisted on remaining anonymous - said his granddaughter was living in Belgium with her parents.

She was on her summer vacation at her grandparents’ home in Macedonia when she took a flight to Istanbul, posing as her older sister. It is presumed that she went on from there to Syria.

A message that the girl sent to her older sister reads: “Sis, only you understand

on the Turks,” the man says, tapping his grandson’s shoulder.

Erected in 1928, designed by the Cro-at sculptor Ivan Meštović, the monu-ment is the most recognisable of all of Belgrade’s many landmarks.

It is equally popular among foreign-ers as it is among locals, who you will see strumming guitars and drinking beer there, especially during hot sum-mer evenings. However, while the column is a prized landmark in Kalemegdan Park, some prefer the famous bench that over-looks the confluence of the rivers

SAVA AND DANUBE

Nicknamed the “love bench”, as it is usually occupied by a love-sick couple, it stands on a rocky ridge right below a big tree. It is probably the most roman-tic spot in the city, which is why it is mission impossible to find a seat there in the evening, even late in the night, as

me and know how I feel when I wear the Burqa,” - reinforcing the family’s fears that she has joined Islamist militants in this country.

The case bears a strong resemblance to other cases of girls of a similar age from Bosnia, Austria and Germany who have also gone to Syria.

However, this is the first case from Macedonia of a girl from an Orthodox Christian family allegedly joining Syrian jihadist fighters.

The pensioner said that everything seemed normal when the girl and her old-er sister, aged 19, arrived from Belgium. The children visited their grandparents in Macedonia each summer and their parents were due to follow shortly.

The man said he did not notice any-thing unusual in the girl’s behaviour. She celebrated her 15th birthday in Skopje only days before she vanished.

However, one morning the family woke up to see that the girl was gone and

couples are always to be found there enjoying the panorama - and Belgrade is a city that never sleeps.

Some of those couples even end up get-ting married in Kalemegdan Park as well.

TRENCH ART

Not far from the bench, below the Zindan Gate, lies the Ružica Church, the oldest in the capital. Covered in ivy, it is almost invisible in summer. Many passers-by only notice it when they hear the sound of trumpets, which is Serbian traditional wedding music, and spot a bride and a groom and their guests emerging from something that they only later realise is a chapel.

Demolished and rebuilt many times over several centuries, it is dedicated to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and served as a gunpowder warehouse in the 18th century.

In 2009, it was named ninth out of the ten most unusual churches in Joxt’s Blog, alongside temples and churches in Japan, Russia, Iceland, Brazil, Finland, Ukraine, Columbia, France and Norway.

Ružica Church came to the au-thor’s attention because of its unusual “trench” art. Namely, Serbian soldiers, fighting on the Thessaloniki front on

her stuff was missing, along with her sis-ter’s passport.

“We immediately went to the police station in Gjorce Petrov [suburb of Skop-je]. At that time, the plane to Istanbul was still in the air and, if the police had reacted promptly, the case might have ended dif-ferently.

“But it was shocking when they told us that they could not do anything before 24 hours had passed, in order for a person to be considered missing,” he continued.

During that time, the teen managed to reach Syria, her grandfather said. “While we were stuck persuading the police to act, and while they kept repeating ‘the procedures’ to us, the police at Gjorce Petrov redirected us to report the case to the police station at the [Skopje] airport,” he recalled.

The Police Ministry has reportedly suspended the officer who was on duty at that time but the police have not con-firmed this information to BIRN.

World War I, made the chandeliers out of their swords, cannon parts, bullet cases, bullet shells and rifles. That is why some call it “the art-of-war chapel“.

HITCHCOCK’S INSPIRATION

The biggest mystery in Kalemegdan, however, is the Roman well, which reopened to the public in March.

Even though it is known as the “Ro-man” well, it was actually built between 1717 and 1731 by the Austrians who ruled Belgrade at the time.

Its original name was the “Grand” well, but the Serbs who took over the fortress from the Ottomans in the 19th century renamed it “Roman” because they be-lieved that all the old constructions at the fortress dated back to Roman times.

To add to the confusion, it is techni-cally not actually a well but a cistern, as the water in it does not come from an underground spring.

However, hidden behind its massive ironbound wooden door, it has become a subject of numerous urban legends.

One says that the well contains many secret passages. Some believe a tun-nel runs from the well in Kalemegdan underneath the river all the way to Ze-mun. Some historians say that the Aus-

The Interior Ministry confirmed that the grandmother of the girl reported her as missing and stated that “all nec-essary measures according to the po-lice procedures have been taken for finding the girl.

“Having in mind that the girl lives in Liege, Belgium, the Belgian authorities were immediately contacted. Because of suspicions that the girl had left for Syria, other services were contacted as well,” it added.

“We are continuing to cooperate with all of our friendly services in order to lo-cate, find and bring the girl back,” the Inte-rior Ministry continued.

A 26-year-old cousin of the girl told BIRN that the family later found out from the data on her computer and from her emails that she had been secretly visit-ing an Islamic religious school in Belgium for two years. During that time she had learned to speak Arabic and read the Ko-ran. She had also obtained her own Mus-

trians did start digging such a tunnel, but eventually gave up.

Curious tales explain why film direc-tors have taken an interest in it, includ-ing the legendary Alfred Hitchcock. On a visit to Belgrade in 1964, he said that the well had inspired him, as “that sort of environment is always a special treat,” he told the Belgrade media.

But it isn’t only Romans and Austri-ans who once walked around Kalemeg-dan Park. If you have spent some time in Serbia and learned the language, you will know that Serbian is full of Turkish words, which are a legacy of almost five centuries of Ottoman rule.

The word Kalemegdan is one of them, coming from words “kale” (“for-tress”) and “megdan” (“battle”).

Words are not the only legacy of Ot-toman Turkish rule. They used to call Kalemegdan Fićir-bajir, which is Turk-ish for “hill of meditation”. Centuries lat-er, it is still a place for meditation, as you may see, observing the mostly elderly chess players on Kalemegdan terrace, contemplating their next moves.

“Checkmate,” one says as he stands up, puts on his hat and moves to an-other bench - allowing another pair of players to make use of Kalemegdan as their own hill of contemplation.

lim religious garment, a Burqa, a full body and face cloak.

“While the children befriended young Muslims in Belgium, nobody was paying much attention because their religion does not matter at all,” the girl’s cousin told BIRN.

According to the family’s own inquir-ies, on the day of her disappearance the girl boarded the early morning Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul.

Security cameras at Skopje airport show that the girl was pointing her head down while passing passport control, apparently checking something in her purse.

This is how she probably managed to fool the police into thinking that her sis-ter’s picture in the passport was her own.

Police sources have told BIRN that a group of three people from Belgium was most probably behind the girl’s de-parture. The sources say the trio arrived from Belgium one day earlier and took off in the same plane that took the girl to Istanbul.

The Macedonian police have not con-firmed these claims. They say they have “no information on whether the girl had an escort on her flight to Istanbul”.

A 16-year-old friend from France was the first to convey a message from the girl to her parents that she “had started a new life, which she will enjoy and be happy in”.

This message drew a response from the French police, who, according to BIRN’s sources, started investigating an organ-ised system of recruiting similarly aged girls. This information has been shared with Interpol, which is now searching for the girl.

Media reports in the region speculate that some 600 ethnic Albanians have joined the war in Syria on the side of Is-lamist rebels, and that over 50 of them have been killed in the fighting. Media reports say at least ten ethnic Albanians from Macedonia have died there.

This summer, Macedonia toughened jail sentences for citizens caught fighting in foreign conflicts or who recruit people to go and fight abroad.

It might be one of Belgrade’s most visited tourist attractions, but the city’s great park holds many secrets.

Relatives of a Macedonian girl who has vanished - and is believed to have joined Islamists in Syria - say police were slow to react to reports of her disappearance.

Hidden treasures of Kalemegdan

REGION

21000 Novi Sad, SerbiaIlije Ognjanovica 24

Phone: +381(0)21/66-15-555Fax : +381(0)21/422-652

info@hotelputnik.rsrecepcija@hotelputnik.rs

marketing@putnikns.rs

www.hotelputnik.rs

Modern city hotel in a perfect location

Photos by Pascal Willuhn/FlickrPhoto by Stephanie Yoder/Flickr Čabrić Ružica Church is one of the oldest churches in the capital.People playing chess can be seen in Kalemegdan Park at almost any time.

Missing teen’s family blame Macedonian

policeA promenade at Kalemegdan Park overlooking the Sava River. Photo by Viktor Markovic/Flickr

Macedonian missing teen might be one of many European girls who fled to fight in Syria. Photo by Michał Huniewicz/Flickr

10 11BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

Exhibitions and Events

FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd

1st Tattoo Convention Day 1, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11amExhibition: Bread and The Great War, Đure Jakšića House, Skadarska 34, 6pm4th Stand Up Fest Day 1, Dom Sindikata, Dečanska 14, 8pm

SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th

1st Tattoo Convention Day 2, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11am4th Stand Up Fest Day 2, Dom Sindikata, Dečanska 14, 8pm

SUNDAY OCTOBER 5th

1st Tattoo Convention Day 3, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11am4th Stand Up Fest Day 3, Dom Sindikata, Dečanska 14, 8pm

MONDAY OCTOBER 6th

Exhibition: Small Format Mosaics, ULUPUDS Gallery, Uzun Mirkova 12, 7pmDelicatessen Monday – Belgrade Design Week, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 8th

Exhibition: Different Distances, group of authors, Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6, 7pm

THURSDAY OCTOBER 9th

Exhibition: Yugoslav Art 1951-1989, Heritage House, Knez MIhajlova 46, 7pm

SUNDAY OCTOBER 11th

October Takeaway Fashion, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, from 5pm to 10pm

MONDAY OCTOBER 13th

Exhibition: Aleksandra Prhal, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm

Theatre

FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd

Little Marital Crimes (Schmitt), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm

SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th

Carnage (Reza), Atelje 212, Svetogorska 21, 8pm

MONDAY OCTOBER 6th

Misanthrope (Moliere), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm

THURSDAY OCTOBER 9th

Metamorphoses (Ovid), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm

FRIDAY OCTOBER 10th

The Lonesome West (McDonagh), Belgrade Drama Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8pm

SATURDAY OCTOBER 11th

The Merchant of Venice (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm

SUNDAY OCTOBER 12th

The Misunderstanding (Camus), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 15th

Playing the Victim (Presnyakov), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm

ARTS

Ivana NIKOLIĆ

‘Disappearing Things’, as the 55th annual October Salon is titled, focuses on the contemporary overproduction of pho-

tographs and on our way of understand-ing and remembering them.

The concept of the salon, Serbia’s leading contemporary art review, was particularly inspired this year by the Snapchat application, which erases all

sorts of messages - be they texts, photos or videos - seconds after they are sent.

“Now that the internet stores every-thing that has ever been published on it, this application’s destructive poten-tial seems incredibly attractive,” ex-plained Nicolaus Schafhausen, one of the curators of this year’s event.

“This is an application which is alive here and now, it is deprived of any memories or the idea of history,” added Schafhausen, who is also a director at the Kunsthalle Wien.

Over 30 artists and art groups from Serbia, Germany, Belgium, the United States, Macedonia and Lithuania are showing works at the salon this year, using a variety of formats including traditional media, videos, photographs and digital images.

The event is being staged in the spa-cious rooms of the former Military Academy building - a venue that fits the theme perfectly.

“This building is ideal for an exhibi-tion which aims to connect the present and the past,” the Cultural Centre of Belgrade, the organiser of the October Salon, said in a statement.

Photographs of the Palace of Serbia by Dušan Đorđević or Susanne Krie-man’s slideshow of a landscape near where the Berlin Wall was built are just some of the works of art especially worth seeing.

Many of the artists have focused on the communist era, presenting photos and videos from that time. One of the biggest is Dušica Dražić’s model named New City, which is made up of all sorts of buildings – ones that were built but did not fulfill their potential, or were later destroyed because they were deemed economic or aesthetic failures.

According to another of the curators, Gordana Dobrić, the most important thing about this year’s event is that the audience can easily interact with the art works on display.

“No additional explanations are needed, everyone interacts with the works in their own way. It is very easy to grasp them, no matter what technique has been used – be it a video, photo or electronic work,” Dobrić told BIRN.

The salon also includes other events and programmes, such as guided tours, conversations with the artists, film projections, seminars, workshops and exhibitions, plus various programmes aimed at children.

Established back in 1960 as a local exhibition, Belgrade’s October Salon turned international in 2004 and has hosted many prominent artists and cu-rators since then.

The salon is open until November 2nd at 40b Resavska Street every day except Mondays from 12 noon until 8pm.

“Serbia 1914” exhibition opens in Historical Museum

The Serbian Historical Museum has opened its “Serbia 1914” exhibition to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the start of World War I. It will be open until January and was put together through coopera-tion between the Historical and Military museums. The exhibition will pre-sent the political, cultural, scientific and economic progress of Serbia at the start of the 1900s, through educational and interac-tive 3D exhibits.

First international saxophone festival

To celebrate the 200th birthday of Adolphe Sax, the Belgian who invented the saxophone, the first Belgrade Saxophone Festival will be held from October 10th-12th. Called Saxperience, it will feature saxophone players from around the continent. The festival will start by focus-ing on the use of the saxo-phone in Classical music, after which the focus will shift to Jazz. There will also be children’s pro-grammes and educational seminars for young people related to playing the instrument. The plan is for the festival to become an annual event.

Iranian culture week kicks off soon

The Iranian Culture Week in Belgrade, which kicks off under the motto “Against Terrorism with the Instrument of Cul-ture”, will be held from October 6th-9th. It starts with a free concert of the Omar Bashir Group at the Yugoslav Drama Theatre on October 6th, followed by a screening of the movie “In the Sands of Babylon” on October 7th. On October 8th-9th there will be exhibi-tions by Iranian painters and photographers in the RTS Gallery.

Art

s in

bri

ef

This year’s October Salon international contemporary art show uses the theme of disappearance to examine historical amnesia and the obsession with the present.

Snapshots of a disappearing world

Disappearingthings

Belgrade City Museum, Resavska Street 40b

www.oktobarskisalon.orgwww.oktobarskisalon.org

19/09 – 02/11/2014

55th October Salon

Photo by Beta

ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA”

RESTURANT KOVAČ modern ethno restaurant

Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343www.restorankovac.com

Duda & Vlada

Redefining the rules (and cutting a cor-ner or two in the process) is not unu-sual these days. How about fine din-ing in a restaurant located in an apart-

ment? Restaurants of this kind have been appearing recently all around the world, and since last December one has oper-ated in Belgrade as well.

The old, neo-Classical building in central Zemun that hosts Salon 5 is com-pletely unmarked; you cannot tell there is a restaurant inside. You ring the bell, and after you climb a couple of flights of stairs, a white unmarked door opens into the unknown – a stranger’s private quarters. Curiosity and excitement rise, bringing back the memories of the famous illegal bars in the Nineties, where one never knew what to expect...

Salon 5, however, is neither illegal nor improvised. There is nothing in local regulations that prevents anyone from opening a restaurant in their apartment, as long as they meet health and safety requirements, as we learned from Niko-la Narančić – the young chef who has decided to turn his large apartment into a restaurant.

The place is fully converted. The visi-tors’ area, overlooking the street, is divid-ed into a relaxed living room-lounge and a formal dining room that can accommo-date about 20 diners. In the back, there is

a fully equipped professional kitchen and a typical restaurant restroom.

The interior is modern and minimalis-tic, obviously touched by a professional designer’s hand. The cold and serene play of white, black and gray is brought to life with interesting and unique pieces of vintage furniture and details, collected by the owner.

A colourful character, Nikola with his many talents doubles up here as a host, waiter, chef, sommelier, DJ and interior designer. He is running Salon 5 more or less as a one-man show. He is eager to share his views with his guests, and spent some time talking to us about his con-cept, his Italian experience and his goals.

Salon 5 puts great care into the fresh-ness of the ingredients. These are ac-quired daily, based on the number of table reservations. The printed menu serves only as a guideline, and the host recommends the dishes, depending on the daily catch at the markets and on the guests’ preferences.

We started well, with one of the house specialties – thin, crispy bruschetta with chicken liver paté, sprinkled with thin leaves of grated black truffle, fortunately in season at the time of our visit.

Homemade pasta is never to be over-looked. With homemade pesto, porcini mushrooms, zucchini and cherry tomato – in a true Italian manner, all three were simple, cooked al dente, fresh and deli-cious. Another Italian classic, Tuscan tag-liata, came with rocket and parmesan.

The beefsteak came red as ordered, served with blanched spinach and

topped with a beautifully grilled porcini mushroom. The meat was marbled and tender, obviously marinated. The simple garnish allowed the pure taste of the meat to stand out – an intelligent alternative to the usual “steak-in-sauce” style.

The third main dish was the sole excep-tion to the otherwise Italian menu, and a dish our host was particularly proud of – fois gras. It was extraordinarily smooth and rich, melting in the mouth – the high-light of our meal.

The sweets did not match the high standards set by the savoury dishes. We had a feeling that they were too rich, which resulted in wrong textures and undesirably intense flavours. The panna cotta was more like a vanilla pudding while the chocolate mousse lacked airi-ness, and was as intense as a classic choc-olate cake filling.

We ended our visit with an espresso ristretto, the best one ever served to us in an apartment.

And while this one-man show can ob-viously deliver great dishes, good enough for any Belgrade restaurant, it falls down when it comes to the service. Although Nikola is probably a much better waiter than anyone he could hire, he cannot be in the kitchen and in the dining room at once unless by magic… and that particular magic does not exist. What he achieves as a one-man-show is truly impressive, but

the service is still not on the same level as in other established restaurants that are within the same price range.

Our visit to Salon 5 was different and interesting, an experience somewhere between dining in and dining out. The food was excellent. We would highly rec-ommend it to anyone who has not yet had a chance to experience this concept, or to someone who has explored the Bel-grade restaurant scene far and wide, and is looking for something new and hip.

But, with a limited choice of dishes and drinks, paired with the informal atmos-phere and service, Salon 5 can hardly reach the top grade of the Belgrade res-taurant scene, while its prices are danger-ously similar. It offers a relaxed, secluded hideaway for specific private situations, but in our case such occasions are rare. Or, do we perhaps value the social com-ponent of dining out too much?

Salon 5

Address: Avijatičarski trg 5, Zemun Phone: +381 11 2614893,

+381 64 5496833

Only by appointmentPrice Guide: 2,500-3,000 dinars [€21 -

€25] per person for three courses without wine

Salon 5 is a pioneering idea – a restaurant in the chef’s own home – but whether the concept quite works in Belgrade remains to be seen.

Pavle GOLICIN

Salon 5 is off the beaten track, a restaurant well concealed in an apartment in Ze-mun. In fact, it is

a concept that is new in town and somewhat innovative for the gastro scene in Belgrade: a restaurant whose owner/chef opens the door of his “home” and leads you to your table in the dining room.

It is rather charming to chit-chat with the owner/chef in the lobby, sipping an aperitif, which is Prosecco as usual, and going through the menu with no rush.

However, unlike the menu, there was no wine list here. As it is being promoted as a top-notch restaurant with above average mark-ups for Belgrade, I admit I was unpleasantly surprised not to find a wine list in Salon 5, and to find that only a few labels were available.

One can agree or disagree with the choice offered here, but this shortage seriously limits the possibilities of making the right matches between the wine and the otherwise finely prepared food.

Having said that, I left it to the owner/chef to combine the wines with the meals I chose. In the event, the Bordeaux blend of Sauvi-gnon Blanc and Semillon by Dulong went nicely with the fresh pasta with pesto. How-ever the Chianti by Le Gines-tre was not rich or structured enough to perfectly match the beef tagliata.

Keeping in mind that the owner was not only the chef but also the waiter, the service seemed rather too informal. Despite that, it was done by the book.

Without any intention to cast a shadow over the glory of the kitchen, a wine list with a more developed wine selec-tion would certainly benefit this kind of endeavour. All in all, I am curious to see how long this one-man show lasts in Belgrade…

~ ~ ~

Win

e C

orn

erSalon

5It always begins with a simple question: ‘Can you bring me the wine list’? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, and cannot be measured only by how much is left in the bottle after dinner.

DINING OUT

Dining in and out - at the same time

12 13BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

ON THE SPOTWHAT’S ON

CLUBBING AND LIVE MUSIC

KOLARACPROGRAMME

Celebrities gather for ‘Little Buddho’ premiere

Harper’s Bazaar launches Serbia’s edition with a party

Opera singers gear up for the premiere

Singers are preparing for the premiere of the new Opera & Theatre Madlenianum’s operetta, “Vienna Blood”,

that is scheduled for October 5th. The libretto of the opera is by Victor Léon and Leo Stein, set to music by the composer Johann Strauss the Younger.

Numerous celebrities gathered in the Sava Centre on September 24th to see a premiere of the new film

‘Little Buddho’ [Mali Budo] that looks likely to become a local blockbuster. Before the film, the crew, including Petar Strugar, Tihomir Stanić, Hristina Popović, and Andrija Milošević, posed for the photographers. In the first week of screening, about 50,000 people in Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia hit the cinemas to watch the movie.

American iconic fashion magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, launched its Serbia edition of the pub-lication at a party in the Crown Plaza Hotel on September 22nd. The party gathered numerous

celebrities from Serbian fashion world, including designers Verica Rakočević and Biljana Tipsarević, as well as the politician Maja Gojković and actor Lena Bogdanović.

FRIDAY OCTOBER 3rd

• Mashup Or Shutup, Povetarac, Staro sajmište bb, 10pm

• QueerLounge, Zavod, Kraljevića Marka 1, 10pm

• Opening Night Party, Vrtoglavica, Šajkaška 15, 10pm

• Chris Eckman & Rycarda Parasol, Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22, 10pm

• Fox, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 11pm

• Gary Beck, Asimil Hangar, Radnička 3, 11pm

• Novo Doba Festival, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm

• Salsa Party, Kogo boat, Bulevar Nikole Tesle 10, 11pm

• DJ Filips Blue, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm

• House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

• Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

SATURDAY OCTOBER 4th

• Eighties, KST Klub Studenata Tehnike, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm

• Mystic Stylez, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 10pm

• Enjoy Division, Jazz bar Centar, Knez Mihailova 6, 10pm

• Dimension 5, Sioux, Skadarska 40a, 10pm

• Jane Fitz - Grand Opener, Wats, Lomina 5-9, 6pm

• Babylon Warchild, Ne Tamo, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm

• Serbia Wonderland: Limited Edition – Bryan Kearney, Kryder & Outlander, Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm

• Tesseract Studio Label Night, Sava Center Summer Stage, Milentija Popovića 9, 11pm

• Tunnel by Mad Mole, Svemirska Kafana, Savski kej, 11pm

• Pure Cream RnB, Club 94, Savski kej, 11pm

• DJ Kiza Karanovic, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm

• House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

• Dj Gosha, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

SUNDAY OCTOBER 5th

• Pop & Rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Džoni i Workeri, Ona moja, Vojvode Šupljikca 31a, 10pm

• Barrio Populo, Inex Film, Višnjička 76, 10pm

• Battle of the bands, Lavirint, Cara Dušana 13 , 10pm

• Unplugged Duo, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm

• Full House Band and DJ Marko, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Tattoo Convention After Party, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 10pm

• Nevena Stojanović Nency i Bogdan Martinović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Frontmen bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm• RnB Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

MONDAY, OCTOBER 6th

• Local pop/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Ljubiša Samardžić (Croatia) + Bastinados + Mutogen, Inex Film, Višnjička 76, 10pm

• Chubura Boys, Lavirint, Cara Dušana 13, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

• Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

TUESDAY OCTOBER 7th

• Soul night, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Blue Flower, Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22, 8pm

• Nineties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 8th

• Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Black Acoustic (pop/rock & soul), Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Music Train, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm

• Rock’n’Roll Party, Pubby’s Magic Garden, Makedonska 5, 10pm

• Gotic electro, KST, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm

• Live Music Party, Dobrila, Dobračina 30, 10pm

• Tanja Savić, River, Brodarska bb, 10pm

• Entombed A.D. Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22, 9pm

• Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Karaoke, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

THURSDAY OCTOBER 9th

• Dejan Krstović Meda i Kristina Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Aurora (pop & rock), Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Miki Solus, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm

• Aristotech, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm

• DJ Mirko & Meex, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm

• RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Taboo bend, Kafana Druga Kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm

• Nebojša Vranjevac i Alter Ego bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

FRIDAY OCTOBER 10th

• Teodora Toković i Miroslav Ilić, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Opening Night Party, Inbox, Karađorđeva 9, 11pm

• Mashup Or Shutup, Povetarac, Staro sajmište bb, 10pm

• Vlatko Stefanovski, Sava Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, 8pm

• Shifted, Filip Xavi, regen, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm

• Teklife Belgrade with special guests, 2044, Savski kej, 11pm

• Big Salsa Party, Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 10pm

• Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm

• Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28,

9pm• Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar,

Pariska 13, 10pm

SATURDAY OCTOBER 11th

• Eighties, KST Klub Studenata Tehnike, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm

• The Best of the 90s – Snap! 2Unlimited, Technotronic, C+C Music Factory, Ace of Base, Snow, La Bouche, Culture Beat, Kombank Arena, Bulevar Arsenija Čarnojevića 58, 8pm

• Rebel Star, Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22, 9pm

• Detroit Swindle, Magacin Depo, Travnička 13, 11

• KR!Z, Luka Concrete, Klaus, Mihajlo, Svemirska Kafana, Savski kej, 11pm

• Retro Trance Party #25, Sioux, Skadarska 40, 11pm

• Floating Free, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 22, 11pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm• Dj Gosha, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

SUNDAY OCTOBER 12th

• Pop & Rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Live Music Party, Lavirint, Cara Dušana 13 , 10pm

• Džoni i Workeri, Ona moja, Vojvode Šupljikca 31a, 10pm

• Unplugged Duo, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm

• Belgrade Banging, Freestyler, Savski kej, 11pm

• RnB & House Night, River, Brodarska bb, 11pm

• Nevena Stojanović Nency i Bogdan Martinović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Filip Mitrović, Kafana Druga Kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm

• Frontmen bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pmt• RnB Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

MONDAY, OCTOBER 13th

• Local pop/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

• Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

TUESDAY OCTOBER 14th

• Soul night, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Marissa Nadler, Rex, Jevrejska 16, 8pm

• Nineties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

• Rock Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm

WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 15th

• Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Black Acoustic (pop/rock & soul), Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm

• Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Music Train, Red shoes, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm

• Rock’n’Roll Party, Pubby’s Magic Garden, Makedonska 5, 10pm

• Gotic electro, KST, Bulevar kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm

• Live Music Party, Dobrila, Dobračina 30, 10pm

• Tanja Savić, River, Brodarska bb, 10pm

• Karaoke, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

THURSDAY OCTOBER 16th

• Dejan Krstović Meda i Kristina Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm

• Halftones, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm

• DJ Mirko & Meex, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm

• RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm

• Taboo bend, Kafana Druga Kuća, Nušićeva 27, 10pm

• Nebojša Vranjevac i Alter Ego bend, Kafana Još ovu noć, Vojislava Ilića 86, 10pm

• Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm

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Dark eye circles and eye bags can leave you looking 10 years older - but this problem can be easily and painlessly resolved.

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Surgery may sometimes be the best option for patients with large bags or puffiness under the eye. For these patients, lower eyelid lift surgery or cheek lift surgery may be the solution to minimize under-eye hollowness and dark circles.

Each patient must be evaluated on an individual basis, as there are many reasons why a particular person may have under-eye dark circles.

Unfortunately, genetics and ag-ing play a major role when devel-oping under-eye bags, so many people will develop them despite following good lifestyle choices.

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Music Gallery, 12pmNock, nock KolaracMusic Workshop for Children - How to Make MusicAuthor Bojan Ivković (VKV Boki)Production: Music CentreAdmission free

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Concert Hall, 11amCycle: The Kolarac Stage of Chamber MusicTango matineeCamerata PančevoProducton: Music CentreAdmission free

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Music Gallery, 6pmCycle: Music WorkshopIvan Jarić, celloDušan Egerić, pianoProduction: Music CentreAdmission free

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Members of Il Divo quartet meet Belgrade fans

Sébastien Izambard, Carlos Marín, David Miller and Urs Bühler, members of popular operatic pop group “Il Divo”, used the opportunity to meet their Belgrade fans, ahead of their concert held in the

Belgrade Arena on September 24th. The quartet also spent some time in a studio in the Serbian capital, recording songs for their new album in French.

14 15BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

GOING OUT

Fans from Kosovo have expressed their wish to go to Belgrade to support the Albanian national team in a football match against Serbia - but it is not clear whether they will be allowed into the stadium.

As the new European basketball season is about to kick off, Belgrade’s Partizan and Red Star basketball clubs hope to have a good season despite financial issues.

SPORT

Belgrade basketball clubs start European competitions

Belgrade finally gets a tattoo fest

Plisat fans at a football match in Kosovo. Photo: Facebook Plisat Fan Page

Serbia faces dilemma over Kosovo football fans

Nektar ZOGJANI

Plisat fan club, one of the big-gest in Kosovo, has made it clear through the club’s Facebook page that fans intend to be present in Bel-

grade’s FC Partizan stadium on October 14th when Serbia plays Albania for the Euro 2016 Qualification match.

“A huge number of people wrote to us and told us that they wish to go to Serbia to support our team [the Alba-nian team],” a post on Plisat’s Facebook page reads. “We’re just waiting for an answer from the Serbian Football Asso-ciation,” reads the note.

The Serbian Football Association has so far refused to comment on whether the Kosovar fans will be allowed to en-ter the stadium.

While the Serbian champions Partizan will play in the Eu-rocup, Red Star will join the

best basketball clubs in Europe playing in the higher–ranked Euroleague com-petition.

Red Star’s coach Dejan Radonjić hopes his young team will manage to enter the Euroleague Top 16, even though several players are wounded.

“Our group in Euroleague is very hard, but I hope that this team, with all its advantages and drawbacks, as well as with the atmosphere and support-ers, will become one of Top 16 teams,” Radonjić told the press conference on September 29th.

Plisat fans rarely miss matches of the Albanian national team, in which a number of players from Kosovo take part.

But Milivoj Mirkov, security commis-sioner at the Football Association of Serbia, earlier this week said that the match was risky because of its political connotations.

“We have to follow strict UEFA proce-dures in organizing the match. It means there will be the highest possible level of controlling the entrance of supporters, selling the tickets and observing what is happening on the stands before, after and during the game,” Mirkov told Serbia’s daily Vecernje novosti on September 24.

In addition, Mirkov expects help and guidance from the Serbian state in or-ganizing the match in Belgrade.

Red Star will start its Euroleague trip playing against Istanbul’s Galatasaray on October 16th in the Belgrade Arena.

On the other side, Partizan will start the Eurocup in group E and play its first match against Lithuania’s Lietuvos Ry-tas in Vilnius on October 15th.

However, Partizan is facing a serious problem ahead of the new season. FIBA banned the Belgrade club from making any international transfers, and the ban will be in effect if the club doesn’t solve the problem by November 1st.

“The club is doing everything to get rid of the ban and start the season smoothly, to register the players and bring in the new ones,“ a statement said.

“We can only prepare the match with the assistance of the security services and the state. Even before entering the Partizan stadium, in cooperation with the police, we will have at least one more checkpoint more than usual,” he added.

Football matches have a long history of raising the political and ethnic tem-perature in the Balkans.

The ban was brought about due to the Serbian champions not paying debts owed to their former player, Jaka Klobučar, a Slovenian, who sued the club in the basketball arbitral tribunal, BAT. Partizan is supposed to pay more than €130,000.

The prospect of a Serbia-Albania match is especially tricky, given con-tinuing anger in Serbia over Kosovo’s declaration of independence from Ser-bia in 2008.

Serbia has vowed never to recognise Kosovo as a state and relations be-tween the countries remain strained, although both sides have entered EU-

led talks on “normalising” relations.Kosovo itself has no right to play in

international football tournaments, except friendly games, as it is still not a member of the international football federation, FIFA.

So far, Serbia has opposed Kosovo’s membership of the world’s most impor-tant football organization.

Touch of Berlin at LudostThis busy modern bar is often confused with the adjoining venue at Mladost - but has a personality all of its own.

David GALIĆ

With the summer season draw-ing to a close, the focus of the city’s nightlife once again di-

rects itself to the Savamala area - and Ludost is one of the best new places to check out there.

Savamala has cemented itself as the great hub for bar-hoppers and club-goers over the last few years, and this is especially true when the weather gets cold and most of the riverside “splavs” close for the season.

There is some confusion about Lu-dost, as many people imagine that this club and Mladost are one and the same. True, they are linked – but each is an en-tity all of its own.

The Serbian capital will finally have its own International Tattoo Festi-val, featuring some of the best artists from the country, and artists from all around the world. More than 40 artists will attend the convention, from October 3rd-5th, at Mikser House.

No matter what type of tattoos you are into, from traditional to tribal, realistic or surrealistic, some artists at the event are sure to be of interest. There will be artists from Sweden, Holland, France, and even far-away Tahiti - who are experts at traditional Polynesian tribal tattooing.

To check out all of the artists and their portfolios and get in contact to book a session, check out the convention’s official Facebook page, which is updated fre-quently.

“Mladost, ludost” – “Youth, madness” is a common saying in Serbian, mean-ing that craziness and youth tend to go together, so it is easy to imagine the two clubs as one. Many people do indeed frequent both venues on the same night, so there is a crossover of patrons between the two. But, since the two clubs opened, they have solidified themselves as separate establishments with programmes of their own.

Physically, a long hallways links the two bars together in the same building. Therefore these are definitely sister clubs, but they offer different types of nights out.

Ludost started life with a reputation as the calmer of the two, as it is open all day and some people visit after work as a bar to relax in. However, since it start-ed building a nightly programme, it has turned into more of a nightspot. One reason why it is not really a typical bar is because, unlike most Belgrade bars, it is open until the early hours and does not close until about 5am at weekends.

The club is narrow, but long. A long bar runs down one side and leather seating runs down the other. In be-tween the two sides are high chairs with a little leftover room for people to dance and circulate. The interior is reminiscent of most modern bars in the Savamala area – minimal and neat.

This is a popular place at weekends, and there is a good chance that you won’t be able to get in on Fridays or Saturdays if you come after midnight.

It can become incredibly crowded and uncomfortable because it is so nar-row, but you can always head down the hallway to Mladost to escape the crowd and then return to Ludost later on. This is especially convenient in winter because you can visit both clubs without having to check your jacket in and out when entering and leaving.

The music is usually funky and jazzy, so expect a slightly older crowd than is

usually the case, aged around 25 to 30. Drink prices are reasonable and the cocktails are especially good. Ludost also has an excellent line-up of domes-tic rakija brands on offer, which foreign visitors especially appreciate.

Overall, this is a well-rounded clubbing experience. The fact that you can usually get in without a res-ervation doesn’t mean it’s empty or boring. The drink selection is excep-tional, but not too expensive. The

patrons are a bit older than usual but they are also relaxed and casual. Lu-dost is a worthy representation of all that Savamala has to offer – a modern, hip, almost Berlin-style experience of a kind that had been missing in Bel-grade until recently.

LudostAddress: Karađorđeva 44Phone: +381 69 830 07 70

Rockers revel at student clubCan’t Stop the Rock is one of the longest-running club nights at Bel-grade’s Klub Studenata Tehnike, KST, having been a fixture for more than 20 years. On Friday October 3rd, rock fans will be able to dance to local DJs Toša, Zuba and Slipi playing hits from a variety of local and international bands including S.A.R.S., Mando Diao, Nirvana, Mano Negra, AC/DC and Metallica. If you are a fan, make sure you are at KST in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73.

Walkabouts ex-leaderteams up for special tourChris Eckman, who used to lead the famed Walkabouts, has since had an inspiring career as a solo artist, incorpo-rating music from all parts of the world into his own sounds. He will be joined on tour by Rykarda Parasol, a talented singer known for her dramatic music, which joins the worlds of film noir and indie folk. If you miss the show on Oc-tober 3rd in Belgrade at Dom Omladine, or want to see it again, the duo will be playing in Novi Sad’s CK13 club on October 4th.

Free night of Swedish hardcore punkAgent Attitude are one of the leading names on the Swedish underground hardcore punk scene, known for their insane live shows and their constant touring. They will be playing at Inex Film in Belgrade on October 4th. Joining them will be Belgrade punks Concrete Worms and a couple other local bands. As is always the case with underground shows at Inex, donations are accepted at the door, but there is no set price for tickets.

US psycho-surfers team up with Belgrade’s finestIf you are a fan of surf rock, there’s only one place to be on October 10th – the Babel Bar & Terrace. The show will feature Daikaiju, one of the brightest stars of the American surf rock scene, who play a twisted and psychedelic take on the genre. Supporting them will be Serbia’s Threesome, who have recently completed a tour of the west coast in the US and are attracting an international following. Tickets are only €2 at the door.

Songstress Marissa Nadler in lower DorćolSigned to one of the coolest experimen-tal music labels of today, Sacred Bones, Marissa Nadler is a singer/songwriter of-ten described as enchanting and magi-cal. On the scene for over a decade now, her current album, “July,” has received rave reviews across the board. She will be accompanied on stage by Janel Lep-pin, who plays cello, synth and sings as well. Nadler has already been to Serbia, having played in Novi Sad last year, but this will be her first time in Belgrade – at the Rex Centre. Tickets will be €10 at the door.

A night of 1990s musical nostalgia

Although the 1990s in Serbia saw war and sanctions, peo-ple who lived through this decade still look back fondly on the music that helped them get through the tough times. The Best of the 90s concert on October 11th in the Belgrade Arena is literally a who’s-who of the biggest dance music

groups from that era.The groups taking part in the all-night party are Technotronic, 2Unlim-

ited, C+C Music Factory, Ace of Base, Snow, Snap!, La Bouche, and Culture Beat. Though most of these artists are nowhere to be found these days, a lot of people still love their old tunes, so expect a huge party. Tickets for the event cost in between 15 and 20 euros, depending on seating.

16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 03 - Thursday, October 16, 2014

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