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浅水波のモデル方程式の短波長極限 +fiux ¡uxxt +4uux = 3uxuxx +uuxxx; u = u(x;t): (3) ここでuは水深1 3 q 11 3 h ’ 0:782h での流体速度の水平方向成分である.uにより流体表面形状
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