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SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

Sum Wrestling (p197) Watch the big guys take eachother on at this traditional Japanese outing.

Baseball (p198) It may be as American as apple pie,but its also as Japanese as raw tuna.

Sento (p193) Nothing treats those travel-worn boneslike a good soak in a communal tub.

Ikebana (p196) It takes a lifetime to learn, but only afew classes to get the basics of flower-arranging.

Learn Japanese (p195) Nihongo wo wakarimasu ka? Ifnot, then it might be time to learn the lingo.

Martial Arts (p192) Tokyo may be one of the worlds saf-est cities, but its still good to know how to defend yourself.

Cycle (p195) One of the best ways to learn the lay ofthe land is to travel with two wheels.

Conversation cafs (p198) Make new friends whilehelping a few Japanese people brush up on their English.

Golf(p196) Sure enough, 18 holes might break thebank, but its a quintessential Japanese experience.

Horse racing (p199) See if you can win some extra yen.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

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SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

HEALTH & FITNESSMost Tokyoites join private gyms or clubsto participate in recreational sports, whichis why most facilities in the city are closedto nonmembers. However, youll find that

visitors do have access to some of the ci tysexcellent, and heavily subsidised, publicsports facilities.

MARTIAL ARTSSmall dj (places of practice) of Japanesemartial arts disciplines exist in neighbour-hoods all over Tokyo, but most instructionand practice is conducted in Japanese. Thefollowing organisations can point you to djwhere you may be able to take lessons or at-tend a training session.

INTERNATIONAL AIKIDFEDERATION Map pp489

%3203-9236; www.aikido-international.org;

Aikikai Foundation, 17-18 Wakamatsuch, Shin-juku-ku;h6am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30-11.30amSun;bToei edo Line to Wakamatsu-Kawada(main exit)Practising at the Aikikai Foundation re-quires filling out an application form andpaying a registration fee in addition to amonthly course fee. Shorter-term visitorsshould stop by during office hours to askabout dj where its possible to drop infor training.

KDKAN JUD INSTITUTE Map p72

%3818-4172; www.kodokan.org; 1-16-30 Kasuga,Bunky-ku; open practiceh3.30-8pm Mon-Fri,

4-7.30pm Sat;bToei Mita or Toei edo Line toKasuga (exits A1 & A2)Students of jud who are looking to keepup their practice while in Tokyo are wel-come to stop by Kdkan Jud Institute inthe afternoons for open practice. Lessonsare also available here on a long-termbasis, and visitors are welcome to observetraining during practice hours.

KYMEIKAN off Map pp489

%3930-4636; 2-1-7 Akatsuka-Shinmachi, Itabashi-ku;bYrakuch Line to Chikatetsu-Narimasu(main exit)Kymeikan dj welcomes foreign ob-servers as well as practitioners of kend(meaning way of the sword), a disciplineof wooden sword fighting that evolvedfrom actual sword techniques used bysamurai in battle. Theres a fee of around5000 for a lesson lasting one hour ormore; those seeking to practise here canusually reach an English speaker on thephone at the dj.

WORLD UNION OF KARATE-DORGANISATION (WUKO) Map p92

%3503-6640; www.wuko-karate.org; 4th fl,Sempaku Shinkokaikan Bldg, 1-15-16 Toranomon,Minato-ku;bGinza Line to Toranomon, exit 2Although Okinawa is the traditional homeof Japans most famous martial art, thereare usually several dj in the city offeringkarate instruction, as well as semi-regularevents and tournaments. For an excellent

overview of whats going on in Tokyo aswell as in the rest of the world, stop on byWUKO.

SPORTS&ACTIVITIESHEALTH&FITNESS

PUBLIC BATHS & HOTSPRINGSIt has been said that a few minutes in a publicbath will teach you more about daily life inTokyo than any book you could ever read.These incredible venues, which locals stillseem to frequent even though almost all apart-ments in Tokyo have their own shower andbath, continue to be some of the most inclu-sive, amazing social spaces in the city.

Luckily, the metropolitan governmentseems to recognise this, and so every sent

(public bath) andonsen

(hot spring) in thecity is generously subsidised. This meansyoull usually be charged only around 500 for

the perfect soak what a steal. It also meansyoull encounter people from all walks and atall stages of life mafia bosses bathe solemnlyalongside splashing toddlers and nobody batsan eye. If youre craving a detour that will takeyou off the beaten tourist path, this is it.

Though typically associated with mountainresorts and small country inns, several onsenare found in Tokyo. Most of these onsen drawtheir mineral water from deep underneathTokyo Bay by definition, what sets an onsenapart from a sent is that onsen water mustissue from a natural hot spring. Sent, hap-pily, can heat plain tap water to deliciouslyexcruciating temperatures and bring bathsto the city-dwelling masses.

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Everyone needs to let off some steam once in a while, and though you may be working up asweat navigating the streets, you may crave a more intense workout than the subway stationstairs can offer. From martial arts training and pumping iron to a vigorous swim and a seriesof transcendental asanas, there is no shortage of sports on offer in the Japanese capital.

Even if youre not the athletic type, Tokyo brims with activities catering to both the casualdabbler and the devout practitioner. Try your hand at flower arranging, take a few Japanese

classes, catch a few innings of baseball or, better yet, a few bouts of sum

.Also open to the public are Tokyos many public baths and hot springs. If youve had a longday of sight-seeing and are starting to feel a bit travel worn, a blissful soak in a steaming bathis indeed the perfect antidote.

SENT PRIMERPrior to Japans miraculous postwar economic revolution, most private homes in Japan did not have baths, so everyevening people gathered their toiletries into a bowl and headed off to the local neighbourhood sent (public bath).More than just a place to wash oneself, the sent served as a kind of community meeting hall, where news and gossipwere traded and social ties strengthened.

Unfortunately, the number ofsent in Japan is rapidly declining, but there are still enough left in Tokyo for you tosample this most traditional aspect of Japanese life. More than just a cultural experience, however, a soak in a sent isthe ideal way to cure the sore muscles born of a day of sightseeing.

Sent can be identified by their distinctive noren (half-length curtains over the doorway).Sent noren usually bear thehiragana (, yu) for hot water (occasionally, it may be written in kanji:). At the bottom of the noren, look for the

kanji for men () and for women ().Once youve located a sent, determine the mens or womens side, take off your shoes, place them in a locker in

the entryway and slide open the door to the changing room. As you enter, youll see the attendant, who sits midwaybetween the mens and womens changing rooms, collecting the entry fee. Sent usually cost between 300 and 500,which usually includes the rental of a modesty towel. If youve forgotten any of your toiletries, you can buy them herefor a small price. Most sent are open from around 3pm to midnight.

In the changing room, youll see a bank of lockers and stacks of wicker or plastic baskets. Grab a basket and dropyour clothes into it. Next, find one of the common senmenki(washbowls) and place your toiletries in it, then place yourbasket in a locker (these have keys on elastic bands). Now, use your modesty towel to cover up your sensitive bits, butdont be alarmed if others around you havent public nudity doesnt have the same negative connotation here as itdoes in the West.

Before you jump headfirst into the bath and immediately horrify all of your fellow bathers, you will first need torigorously wash your entire body. This is done at the banks of low showers and taps that line the walls of the place.Grab a low stool and a bucket, and plant yourself at an open spot. First, fill the bucket with hot water and soap, work

up a lather, and start scrubbing everywhere (and we do mean everywhere!). As a foreigner, your scrub-down processmight be scrutinised by your fellow bathers, so it does pay to be thorough.

Once youve washed thoroughly and removed all the soap, you are ready for a relaxing soak in the tubs. At a goodsent, youll have a choice of several tubs, which usually include a scalding tub, a cold tub and a whirlpool bath, as wellas a sauna. At a greatsent, you may also find a variety of mineral water tubs and possibly even an electric bath, which,believe it or not, is meant to simulate swimming with electric eels!

While soaking in the tub, its good form to adhere to the following etiquette: try not to enter the tub with yourmodesty towel, keep your head above the water, minimise your splashing and never wash yourself with the bath water.Otherwise, feel free to spread out, chit-chat with your fellow bathers and even take a snooze.

After soaking away the strains of the day, if youve done everything correctly, you will have achieved a state calledyude-dako (boiled octopus). This is the point when youre going to want to rehydrate with a sports drink, or go for brokeby downing a beer or two. Regardless of which route you choose, however, youre going to want to stagger home quicklyand collapse onto your futon. Trust us after a day at the sent, youll sleep like the dead.

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ASAKUSA KANNON SENTMap p86

%3844-4141; 2-7-26 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admission700;h6.30am-6pm Fri-Wed;bGinza, Hibiya orToei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6)Near Sens-ji, the water at this traditionalbathhouse is a steamy 40C. Asakusashistoric ambience makes this a great placefor a soul-soothing soak.

JAKOTSU-YU Map p86

%3841-8645; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admis-sion 400; 1pm-midnight Wed-Mon;bGinza Lineto Tawaramachi (exit 3)

This Edo-era bath is one o f our favouritesent in Tokyo (and the preferred place ofrepose for neighbourhood yakuza, Japanesemafia, as well). First, be warned: the bath-ers here adore this place and initially willwatch you carefully to make sure no dirtyor soapy bodies make their way into thesacred tub. Once youve convinced themyoure up to scrubbing every inch, headinto the incredibly hot indoor soaking area

where youll be massaged by tea-colouredwater that is propelled by vigorous jets.Once youre cooked, youre ready for thereal treat: the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framedrotemburo (outdoor bath) thats just outside.

The water in this little pool is much moretemperate and now that your muscles havebeen turned to loose string by the heat, youcould sit here for hours, perhaps wanderingoccasionally to the cold bath a few stepsaway, just to keep yourself awake. Keep inmind that the sauna is off limits unless youpay an additional fee.

KOMPARU-YU ONSEN Map p62%3571-5469; 8-7-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; admission400;h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat;bGinza or JRYamanote Line to S himbashi (exit 1)The fact that this straightforward, Meiji-erabath manages to keep its wits about it, evenas real estate prices continue to climb in theritzy Ginza that surrounds it, must be oneof Tokyos best jokes. The bath mistress isa daunting battle-axe no kidding, this galchews tacks. With this in mind, make sureyou scrub extra hard behind your ears, anddont even think about wearing the plastic

slippers intended for the toilet out into thegeneral locker room. That said, Komparu-yuis a refreshing slice of Shitamachi (low city)

in the midst of the citys most fashionableand well-to-do precincts.

KOSHI-NO-YU SENTMap pp967

%3404-2610; 1-5-22 Azabu-Jban, Minato-ku; admission 400;h11am-11pm Wed-Mon;bNamboku or Toei edo Line to Azabu-Jban(exits 4 & 7)

This place is overseen by a no -nonsensebath mistress who watches the mens and

womens sides closely for any serious bath-ing infractions or attempted voyeurism. Up-stairs is the fancier Azabu-Jban Onsen (1260),which uses the same tea-coloured, mineral-rich water piped from 500m underground,but also features a sauna, a cold bath andtatami rooms. If youre looking to hang outwith the locals, however, the downstairsbathing area is really the thing.

LA QUA SPA Map p56

%5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua/spa.htm; 1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; entrance

2565, charge for Healing Baden 525; extra chargefor late night bathing 1890;h11am-9am;bMarunouchi Line to Krakuen, or JR Ch or JRSbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit)One of the citys few true onsen, this unbe-lievably chic and sophisticated spa complexis where serious bathing aficionados go toindulge in a bit of class and luxury. Withmultiple floors boasting an incredible vari-ety of baths, massage parlours, restaurantsand relaxation areas, achieving beautyas well as peace of mind has never beeneasier. See p58 for more information.

-EDO ONSEN MONOGATARI Map p131%5500-1126; 2-57 Aomi, Kt-ku; adult/childfrom 2800/1500, from 6pm-2am 1900/1500;h11am-9am;bYurikamome Line to TelecomCenter (main exit) or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport(free shuttle bus)-edo Onsen Monogatari does bill itself asan old Edo theme park, so come here forkitsch rather than authenticity. Its a goodplace to socialise in mixed groups, as theresan outdoor footbath area for relaxing in youryukata (light cotton robe). You wouldntcome here for a simple scrub, but if youd

like to make a day of it in Odaiba with somechums, this is a good place for an eveningsoak. See p130 for more information.

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ROKURYU KSEN Map p72

%3821-3826; 3-4-20 Ikenohata, Tait-ku; admis-sion 300;h3.30-11pm Tue-Sun;bChiyoda Lineto Nezu (exit 2)It may feel like a good neighbourhoodsent, but its actually an onsen wherethe water is pleasantly hot, as opposedto scalding hot as it is at some other cityhot springs. The bubbling amber watercontains minerals that the many old tim-ers who come here in the afternoon claim

can cure a number of ailments. Thesesame folk tell stories about the occasionalancient leaf thats worked its way up thepipes and into the tub. These leaves arein high demand and are reputed to beexcellent for your skin. The bath is locateddown a small lane on the right; look forthe traditional Japanese building with theblue curtains.

RUNNINGWhile Tokyos city streets are generally toocrowded for jogging though they do makean excellent obstacle course in that respect there are parks aplenty for runners. Some ofthe best places to run, with lots of greeneryand long paths, include Yoyogi-ken(p108), Meiji-

jing(p109) and Higashi-gyen(p51). If you prefernot to jog solo, and instead like it to be a socialevent, try hashing with the Tokyo membersof that famous drinking organisation with arunning problem.

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

http://tokyohash.orgFormed in 1938, this worldwide clubsactivities are a mix of mad dashing and

serious drinking done by cheeky joggerswith sobriquets such as Sakura Sucker.Several planned runs meander through a

variety of routes each week. Bring your bestdrinking shoes.

CYCLINGTooling around Tokyo on a bike can turnyou onto some wonderful unexpected al-leys and back streets, but you will have tosharpen your senses to avoid opening taxidoors and pedestrians suddenly veering intoyour path. The city is pretty flat, so most ofthe challenge will come from finding yourway between points B and A. Some ryokan

(traditional Japanese inns) rent or loanbicycles to their guests, and there are a fewmellow cycling courses in the city parks. Besure to always lock up your bike as theft doeshappen, even in a city as seemingly innocu-ous as Tokyo.

EIGHT RENT Map p106

%3462-2382; 31-16 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku;rentals per day 1920;bJR Yamanote Line toShibuya (south exit)Near the south exit of Shibuya Station,this place requires a passport to rent a

bicycle; call ahead for an appointment.Its a decent deal if youre renting foronly one day, but if you plan to getaround on a bike for the duration of yourstay, you might be better off purchasinga cheap bike from Tky Hands (p142) andselling it when you leave. Call ahead foran appointment.

IMPERIAL PALACE CYCLING COURSEMap pp523

%3211-5020;h10am-3pm Sun;bChiyodaLine to Nijbashimae (exit 2)Every Sunday, 500 free bicycles are lent foruse along the 3.3km Imperial Palace cycling

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FEELING TONGUE-TIED?Dont know your sayonara from your sumimasen? The following language schools can help you start speaking theJapanese language in no time:

Academy of Language Arts (Map p56;%3235-0071; www.ala-japan.com; 5th fl, 2-16-2 Agebach, Shinjuku-ku;

bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to Idabashi, exit B1)

East West Japanese Language Institute (offMap pp489;%3366-4717; www.eastwest.ac.jp; 2-36-9 Ch,Nakano-ku;bMarunouchi Line to Nakano-sakaue)

Sendagaya Japanese Institute (Map p122;%3232-6181; www.jp-sji.org; 7th fl, 1-31-18 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba, main exit)

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course. Bikes are given on a first-come, first-served basis and can be picked up next tothe Babasakimon police box just outsidethe station exit.

MEIJI-JING OUTER GARDENSMap p110

%3405-8753;h9am-4pm Sun & holidays;bToei edo Line to Kokuritsu-Kygij (exit A2)On Sundays and holidays, 400 bicycles are

lent to ride the road that encircles Meiji-jings outer gardens. Pick up these freebikes outside the office near the NationalStadium(Map p110).

GOLFGolfers who live in Tokyo claim that itscheaper to tee off in Hawaii because the en-tire trip costs less than booking a space atone of the 500 local courses. Sadly, theyreprobably right, though Tokyo does have 19public golf courses that are somewhat reason-able (assuming you can get a spot). The mostconveniently located of the public courses islisted below:

TOKYO TOMIN GOLF COURSEoff Map pp489

%3919-0111; 1-15-1 Shinden, Adachi-ku; admis-sion from 5000;bNamboku Line to ShimoIf you dream of sand traps and short puts,youll want to consider giving this place ago. Some ability to speak Japanese will beuseful when making a reservation, thoughmost hotel staff can easily help you pastthis obstacle. Keep in mind that spring and

autumn tend to be when the weather isfine and the course is often booked outweeks in advance.

SKATINGWhat could be better on a sweltering summerafternoon than gliding around an icy, indoorskating rink? If youd rather mentally scorethe double axels than execute them, the rinkssell observer tickets (300 to 400) for thosenot taking to the ice.

TAKADANOBABA CITIZEN ICE SKATERINK Map pp489

%3371-0910; 4-29-27 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child 1300/800;hnoon-7.45pmMon-Sat, 10am-7.45pm Sun;bJR Yamanote Lineto Takadanobaba (Waseda exit)

The peoples skating rink, a 30m by 60m slabof ice, is used for lessons, ice hockey, speedskating and general-purpose fun. Skaterental costs 500; discounts are taken offadmission if you show up after 5pm. Headwest out of Takadanobaba Station and walkabout five minutes along Waseda-dri; lookfor the big yellow sign to your left.

MEIJI-JING ICE SKATING RINKMap p110

%3403-3458; Gobanchi, Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child 1300/900;hnoon-6pm Mon-Fri,10am-6pm Sat & Sun;bToei edo Line to Koko-ritsu-Kygij (exit A2) or JR Ch or JR Sbu Line toSendagaya (main exit)Open year-round, Meiji-jing Ice SkatingRink is there for a good twirl and glidearound the rink. When you arrive youllbe given a choice between three typesof skates ice hockey, speed skating andfigure skating (rentals cost 500). Choose

whichever will help you move most grace-fully across the NHL-sized rink. Discountson admission are offered after 3pm.

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GYMS & POOLSIn general, joining a Japanese gym is a cum-bersome, expensive process best undertakenonly by those who will be living in Tokyo.With that said, if youre here for the longrun, we recommend it most gyms have verygood facilities and superb bathing areas thatare especially tempting in winter. However,if youre just in the mood for a good swimor functional workout, the following spotsshould help you work up a good sweat. Most

swimming pools require that swimmers wearbathing caps.

CHIYODA SOGO TAIKUKAN POOLMap p68

%3256-8444; www.city.chiyoda.tokyo.jp/english/e-guide/sports.html; 2-1-8 Uchi-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; pool/gym 600/350;h9am-9.30pm, closed3rd Mon;bChiyoda, Hanzmon or MarunouchiLine to temachi (exits A1, A2, C1 & C2)A public pool and weight room are avail-able for reasonable fees. The pool is opento the public from 5pm to 9pm on mostdays, but hours vary. Keep in mind thatcertain times during the day are reservedfor those residing in Chiyoda. The websitelists details in English.

CH-KU SOGO SPORTS CENTREMap p126

%3666-1501; 2-59-1 Nihombashi-Hamach, Ch-ku; pool/gym 500/400;h9am-8.30pm;bToeiShinjuku Line to HamachAnother of Tokyos public gyms, this onein Ch-ku has gym facilities and a swim-

ming pool. Kydo (Japanese archery) prac-tice also takes place at the sports centre;though no lessons are given, spectators arewelcome to watch this graceful discipline ifanyone is practising here.

TOKYO METROPOLITANGYMNASIUM INDOOR POOL Map p110

%5474-2111; 1-17-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku;admission 450;h9am-8pm, closed 3rd Mon;bJR Sbu Line to Sendagaya (main exit)If all that movement on land has made youcrave a few laps, head here. In addition to a

pool theres a weights room, although its userequires an extra fee. The gymnasium andpool are located just to the northwest of the

National Stadium in Harajuku, just a few min-utes walk from the Sendagaya JR Station.

YOGAAlthough yoga is not as popular as it was afew years back, loyal devotees are still twistingand contorting themselves in the pursuit ofpeace of mind and strength of body. If yourelooking to take part in classes, the citys largestschool is listed below:

INTERNATIONAL YOGA CENTERoff Map pp489

%090-4596-7996; www.iyc.jp; 4th fl, 5-30-6Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; sessions 3000;bMaru-nouchi Line to Ogikubo (south exit)Drop in to do the downward dog at the In-ternational Yoga Center, which has branchesacross Tokyo. Ninety-minute classes inAshtanga and Iyengar yoga are given inJapanese, but you can check the websitefor a list of English-speaking instructors andwhere and when theyll be teaching.

WATCHING SPORTFrom sum and baseball to soccer and horseracing, the Tokyos sports calendar is jam-packed full of exciting events year round.

SUMSum is a fascinating, highly ritualised activitysteeped in Shint tradition. Perhaps sumscontinuing claim on the national imaginationlies in its ancient origins and elaborate rites;its the only traditional Japanese sport that

still has enough clout to draw big crowds anddominate primetime TV.When a tournament isnt in session, you

can enjoy the Sum Museum (p125), next door tothe stadium. Displays include humungouswrestler hand-prints and the referees cere-monial clothing. Unfortunately, there are noEnglish explanations, and during tourna-ments the museum is open only to attendingticket-holders.

RYGOKU KOKUGIKAN Map p126

%3623 5111; www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html; 1-

3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; admission 500-45,000;hopening ceremonies 8.30am, ticket office 10am-6pm;bJR Sbu or Toei edo Lines to Rygoku

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THE GENTLE ART OF IKEBANAFancy a hand at ikebana, the traditional Japanese art of flower-arranging? Schools to get you started:

Ohara School of Ikebana (; International Division; Map p110;%5774-5097; www.ohararyu.or.jp/english/class/index2.htm; 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku;bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to

Omote-sand, exits B1 & B3) Ohara specialises in flower-arranging classes for students of all levels. One-timers andshort-term visitors are welcome, as are those whod just like to watch.

Sgetsu Kaikan (; Map p92;%3408-1151; www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index.html; Sgetsu KaikanBldg, 7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato-ku;h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-8pm Fri;bGinza, Hanzmon or Toei edoLine to Aoyama-itchme, exit 4) An avant-garde ikebana school, with ikebana displays, a bookshop and coffee shop.

Call ahead for class information. See p93 for more information.

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Tokyos bash(sum wrestling tourna-ments) take place at this stadium in Janu-ary, May and September. Unless youreaiming for a big match at a weekend youshould be able to secure a ticket: bashtake place over 15 days. The best seats arebought up by those in the know who also

happen to have the right connections, butupstairs seats are usually available andcost from 2300 to 7000. Nonreservedseats at the back sell for 1500, and if youdont mind standing, you can get in foraround 500. Tickets can be purchasedup to a month prior to the tournament oryou can simply turn up on the day of thematch. Its advisable to get there early,as keen punters start queuing the nightbefore. Note that only one ticket is soldper person, a clever device used to foilscalpers. The stadium is adjacent to JRRygoku Station, on the north side of the

railway tracks. If you cant go in person,NHK televises sum from 3.30pm dailyduring tournaments.

BASEBALLBaseball is Japans most popular sport and sixof Japans 12 pro-baseball teams are based inTokyo. A trip to one of the local ballparks istruly a cultural (or perhaps a religious?) ex-perience the crowd behaviour is completelyunlike what youre probably used to at home.The home teams fans often turn up in match-ing happi (half-length coats) and perform

intricate cheering rituals in perfect unison ledby special cheerleaders, one for each section,who make a job out of whipping fans into a

well-ordered frenzy. Sitting in the cheap seatswill put you right in the middle of it.

Baseball season starts at the end of Marchor the first week of April and runs until Oc-tober. Tokyo Dome is probably the most ex-citing place to take in a game, though JingStadium can make for a fun afternoon outwhen the weather is fair.

See also the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame (p59)for some history of the sport in Japan.

JING BASEBALL STADIUM Map p110

Jing Kyjo;%3404-8999; 13 Kasumigaoka,Shinjuku-ku; tickets from 1500;hgames start6pm;bGinza Line to Gaienmae (north exit)Now home for the Yakult Swallows, Tokyosnumber two team, Jing Baseball Stadiumwas originally built to host the 1964 Olym-pics. When not hosting Yakult Swallowsgames, the baseball stadium is sometimesused for high-profile Little League andintercollegiate championships. You canbuy tickets from the booth in front of thestadium; outfield tickets can cost as littleas 1500.

TOKYO DOME Map p56

Big Egg;%5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e;1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; admission from 1500;bJR Ch or JR Sbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit)

The Big Egg, as its affectionately known,is the best place to catch a baseball game

in the city, as its the home turf of Japansmost popular baseball team, the YomiuriGiants. Night games tend to be well-

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attended and can be especially exciting.There are ticket b ooths on three sides ofthe Big Egg; after purchasing your ticket,navigate to the gate you want.

J-LEAGUE SOCCERJapan was already soccer crazy when theWorld Cup came to Saitama and Yokohamain 2002. Now its a chronic madness, and fiveminutes of conversation with any 10-year-old in Tokyo about why they wanna grow

up to be like David Beckham should clear upany doubts you might have to the contrary.J-League games are generally played outsidethe city. If youd like to catch an internationalmatch, try the National Stadium.

NATIONAL STADIUM Map p110

Kokuritsu Kygij;%3403-1151; Kasumi-gaokamachi, Shinjuku-ku; admission from 2000;bJR Ch Line to Sendagaya (east exit)Completed in 1958 and used as one ofthe primary venues for the 1964 Olympics,National Stadium now hosts the annual

Toyota Cup (November or December) andother international soccer events.

HORSE RACINGThere are two big racing tracks in the Tokyoarea, offering weekend gamblers a good chanceto wager (and lose) some money. Gambling isillegal in Japan except in sanctioned contexts

horse racing being one of them. If youre itch-ing to take your chances, look up the JapanRacing Associations English guide online athttp://japanracing.jp. Races are generally heldat weekends from 11am to 4pm and are a hotdestination for young couples on dates.

I KEIBAJMap p62

%3763-2151; 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa-ku;general admission 100, reserved seats 500-2000;

bTokyo Monorail to i-KeibajmaeEach year from April to October, i Keibajoffers night-time Twinkle Races. The racesare lit by mercury lamps, whose diffusedlight draws young couples out on hotdates. Though the popularity of horseracing has declined over the past decade,some lucky record-breaker won over 13million from a mere 100 bet here inMay 2005.

TOKYO KEIBAJoff Map pp489

Fuch Racecourse;%0423-633 141; 1-1 Hiyoshich,

Fuch-shi; admission varies;bKei Line toFuchkeiba-Seimonmae (pedestrian overpass)More popularly known as Fuch Racecourse,

Tokyo Keibajs 500m-long home straight isthe longest in the country and can make forexciting, win-by-a-nose finishes. This trackis where most major and international racestake place. Admission varies depending onthe popularity of the event.

SPORTS&ACTIVITIE

SWATCHINGSPORT

lonelyplanet.com

ENGLISH CONVERSATION CAFSAn excellent way to meet Japanese people is to stop by an English conversation caf, where you can chat with studentslooking to brush up their language skills. The following list should get you started:

Com Inn (; Map p102;%3794-7366; www.cominn-jp.com; admission men/women 3000/2000 all-you-can-drink; 1-3-9 Minami-Ebisu, Shibuya-ku;bJR Ebisu, south exit) The longest-running and most establishedconversation caf in Tokyo, Com Inn holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that pack the house.

Leafcup (; Map p56;%5856-7587; www.leafcup.com; admission men/women 3000/2000(all-you-can-drink); 4-2-6 Iidabashi, Chiyoda-ku;bTozai Line to Iidabashi, exit A5; Nanboku, Yuurakucho or Toei-Oedo lines to Iidabashi, exit A4 or JR Yamanote Line to Iidabashi, east exit) The most comfortable and attractive of

the conversation cafs, Leafcup also holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that highlight differentfun-filled themes.

Mickey House (Map p122;;%3209-9686; www.mickeyhouse.jp; admission500 (with 1 drink); 2-14-4 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;bTozai Line to Takadanobaba, exit 6; JR Yamanote Lineto Takadanobaba,Waseda Exit) An excellent place for a beer and light conversation most nights of the week, MickeyHouse really picks up on Friday and Saturday nights during international parties of their own.

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