神經傳導介質抑制類胜肽神經傳導介質抑制類胜肽（（ NeurotranNeurotransmitter-inhibiting peptidessmitter-inhibiting peptides ））

• acetyl-glutamyl-glutamyl-methyoxylglutaminyl-arginyl-arginylamide (Argireline) 在細胞外藉由影響鈣離子調控的胞吐作用（ Calcium-dependent exocytosis ）所需的蛋白質生成，進而抑制神經介質的釋放。藉由減少肌肉收縮而減少細紋和皺紋

• SNARE complex 是膜上蛋白質調控神經胞吐作用的核心，因為此一複合物會導致（ Catecholamine ）的釋放，如果 Catecholamine 釋放太多就會導致皺紋以及細紋的形成；所以此類的胜肽就是抑制 SNARE complex 生成

生長因子 生長因子 Growth FactorGrowth Factor•EGF : Epidermal Growth Factor 表皮細胞生長因子

– 刺激老化皮膚細胞再活化– 刺激表皮細胞生長 – 刺激其他活細胞激素分泌– 刺激纖維母細胞分泌膠原蛋白及

彈力蛋白– 刺激受傷組織血管增生，加速癒

合– 傷口癒合過程中防止疤痕形成– 抗皺

•FGF: Fibroblast Growth Factor 纖維母細胞生長因子

– 皮膚再生– 刺激膠原蛋白及彈力蛋白合成– 刺激纖維母細胞生長– 刺激老化組織再生以及傷口癒合– 刺激表皮細胞生長及移動– 刺激毛髮生長，防止白頭髮形成– 刺激玻尿酸合成

• IGF: Insulin like Growth Factor 類胰島素生長因子– 扮演與生長荷爾蒙相同功能– 刺激骨骼、肌肉及神經再生– 刺激受傷組織血管增生– 減緩腦下垂體老化– 刺激玻尿酸合成– 刺激毛髮生長並預防落髮

• VEGF : Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor 血管內皮細胞生長因子– 血管內皮細胞生長因子是強力新

血管生長因子– 刺激血管細胞增生– 刺激血管細胞移動

• TGF-β3 : Transforming Growth Factor-β3– 多功能的細胞激素– 刺激細胞繁殖、生長及分化– 去除疤痕的形成– 協助傷口癒合

化粧品的奈米科技風潮化粧品的奈米科技風潮

•奈米結構易滲透至皮膚內層，讓化妝品的效果再也不侷限在單純的表面功夫

•奈米載體可使其成分滲透至真皮層與角質層交界處，對需要深層吸收才得以發揮的美白、防皺與塑身等功能，可以得到更有效的發揮

化粧品與奈米科技化粧品與奈米科技• 奈米化原料粒子 Nanoparticle

– Titanium dioxide 、 Zinc oxide 、 Iron oxide– Mica and other metal oxide

• 奈米容器載體 Nanocarrier– Liposome and ethosome– Nanosome and micelle– Fullerene

• 奈米化纖維材料 Nanofiber– Mask containing chitin/chitosan fiber

HappiHappiLindsay Elkins, Contributing Editor, December 2008Lindsay Elkins, Contributing Editor, December 2008

• Age gracefully? Not today’s consumer, who often seeks anti-aging advice from her dermatologist who, more often than ever these days, markets his or her own line of products.

• Sales of professional skin care products rose 13% in 2007, with anti-aging products leading the category.

The International Top 30 The International Top 30 20082008

1. Unilever United Kingdom $25.48 billion

2. L’Oréal France $23.3 billion

3. Henkel Germany $9.75 billion

4. Kao Japan $9.6 billion

5. Reckitt Benckiser United Kingdom $9.42 billion

6. Beiersdorf Germany $6.38 billion

7. Shiseido Japan $6.35 billion

8. LVMH France $3.74 billion

9. Lion Japan $2.65 billion

10. Chanel France $2.5 billion

11. Yves Rocher France $2.41 billion

12. Natura Brazil $2.2 billion

13. GlaxoSmithKline United Kingdom $2.1 billion

14. AmorePacific Korea $1.78 billion

15. Kosé Japan $1.58 billion

The International Top 30 The International Top 30 20082008

16. Clarins France $1.38 billion

17. Oriflame Sweden $1.37 billion

18. LG Korea $1.26 billion

19. Puig Spain $1.21 billion

20. Pierre Fabre France $1.0 billion

21. YSL Beauté The Netherlands $889 million

22. Pola Japan $878 million

23. PZ Cussons United Kingdom $828 million

24. The Bolton Group The Netherlands $739 million

25. Sunstar Japan $637 million

26. The Colomer Group Spain $598 million

27. Mandom Japan $556 million

28. Lornamead United Kingdom $537 million

29. Menard Japan $521 million

30. Fancl Japan $430 million

1. Unilever1. Unileverwww.unilever.comwww.unilever.com

• Major Products: – Personal care—Axe/Lynx, Rexona/Sure and Degree

deodorants; Dove, Caress, Lux and Lifebuoy soaps; Pond’s and Vaseline skin care products; Organics, Salon Selectives, SunSilk, Suave and ThermaSilk hair care products; Close-up and Signal oral care products. Household—Ala, All, Omo/Persil and Surf laundry detergents; Comfort and Snuggle fabric softeners; Sunlight dish detergent, Domestos bleach, Cif cleaners.

• New Products: – Vaseline Cocoa Butter range, Clear anti-dandruff sha

mpoo, Domestos Zero Limescale bleach.

2. L’Oréal2. L’Oréalwww.loreal.comwww.loreal.com

• Major Products:– L’Oréal Paris, Garnier, Maybelline New York, SoftSheen Carson.– L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Redken, Matrix, Mizani, Pureolo

gy Luxury—Lancôme, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, Kiehl’s, Shu Uemura, Giorgio Armani, Parfums Cacharel, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Paloma Picasso, Parfums Guy Laroche, Diesel, Victor & Rolf, Yue-Sai. Active Cosmetics—Vichy, La Roche-Posay, Skinceuticals, Sanoflore. L’Oréal’s operations also include The Body Shop and Galderma, and 50% stakes in Le Club des Créateurs de Beauté and Laboratoires Innéov.

• New Products:– L’Oréal Professionnel Color Supreme, L’Oréal Professionnel Hom

me Cover 5 grey hair cover,  L’Oréal Paris Glam Shine, Derma Genesis/Skin Genesis, Lancôme Rénergie Morpholift Rare line, L’Oréal Professionnel Age Densiforce, La Roche-Posay Substiane anti-aging replenishing care, Maybelline Define-A-Lash, Lancôme Virtuose mascara, Shu Uemura Art of Hair, Mizani Butter Blend.

3. Henkel3. Henkelwww.henkel.comwww.henkel.com

• Major Products:– Laundry and home care sold under brands such as Persil, Purex,

Dixan, Vernal, Mir Colueurs, Pril, Bref, Spee Weißer, Riese and Somat. Cosmetics and toiletry brands include Schwarzkopf, Fa, Right Guard, Dial, Igora, Palette, Gliss, Kur, Schauma, Taft, Theramed and Diadermine.

• New Products: – Laundry— Purex Natural Elements, Persil 20°C formulation;– Hair care— Palette Golden Gloss Browns, Gliss Kur Oil Nutritive,

Schuama Kiwi Glanz, Taft Volume Power, Drei Wetter Taft Sensitive, BlondMe

– Personal care— Fa Naturals shower gel and deodorant, Dial Yogurt; Skin care—Diadermine AgeExcellium

– Oral care—Theramed 2-in-1 freshness, Theramed Titan Fresh.

4. Kao4. Kaowww.kao.co.jpwww.kao.co.jp

• Major Products: – Household products, personal care products and colo

r cosmetics.

• New Products: – Sofina beauté, Sofina Primavista base makeup, Asien

ce hair care (relaunched globally), Megurism steam eye mask, Attack Biogel liquid laundry detergent, Men’s Biore line (relaunched in Japan).

5. Reckitt Benckiser5. Reckitt Benckiserwww.reckittbenckiser.comwww.reckittbenckiser.com

• Major Products: – Surface care— Cillit Bang, Lysol, Dettol, Harpic. – Fabric care— Calgon, Vanish, Resolve, Spray ‘n Was

h, Woolite.– Dishwashing— Finish, Electrasol– Home care– Airwik, Mortein– Health and Personal care— Veet, Dettols, Clearasil.

• New Products: – Cillit Bang Grease & Floor, Dettol Herbal soap and sh

ower gel, Veet Pump Pack, Mortein with Dettol, Mortein Naturgard range, Airwick Freshmatic Mini.

6. Beiersdorf6. Beiersdorfwww.beiersdorf.comwww.beiersdorf.com

• Major Products: – Skin care, beauty care and toiletries sold under brand

names that include Nivea, Eucerin, La Prairie, Slek, Labello, 8x4, Florena.

• New Products: – Nivea Diamond Gloss hair products; Nivea My Silhou

ette  body shaping gel; Nivea for Men Extreme Comfort; Nivea For Men whitening oil control (India); Nivea for Men DNAge anti-wrinkle moisturizer; Nivea Good-Bye Cellulite dietary supplement capsules (U.S. only); Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler eye care.

7. Shiseido7. Shiseidowww.shiseido.co.jpwww.shiseido.co.jp

• Major Products: – Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care, fragrances, hair care and t

oiletries. Major brands include Shiseido, Carita, Decleor, IPSA, Ettusais, D’icila Parfums Issey Miyake, Parfums Jean Paul Gaultier, Parfums Narciso Rodriguez, Nars, Cle de Peau Beaute Za, Parfums Serge Lutens, Urara and Supreme Aupres.

• New Products: – Clé de Peau Beauté La Crèmes, Revital, Aqua Label skin care,

Acne& skin lightening series, Uno men’s skin care, Tsubaki Golden Repair hair care, Urara Makeup, Shiseido BOP intensive skin collective program, Shiseido Zen fragrance (relaunch).

8. LVMH8. LVMHwww.lvmh.comwww.lvmh.com

• Major Products: – Fragrances and cosmetic sold under brands such as Christian Dior, Guerla

in, Givenchy, Kenzo, Acqua di Parma, Parfums Loewe, Benefit, Fresh and Makeup Forever. LVMH also owns Sephora, the beauty products retailer.

• New Products: – Dior— Fahrenheit 32 for men, Midnight Poison Addict Shine fragrances, C

apture L’ Ore de Vie, Diorskin foundation, Backstage.– Guerlain— L’Instant Magic, Eau de Shalimar, Aqua Allegoria Figue Iris and

Aqua Allegoria  Laurier Réglisse,  Cruel Gardénia, Cherry Blossom delight, My Insolence.

– Parfums Givenchy— Organza Jasmin 2007, Very Irresistible Rosa Damascena 2007, Amarige Mimosa 2007, Vetyver, Rouge Interdit lipstick.

– Parfums Kenzo— Tokyo by Kenzo for men, Vintage Edition.– Benefit— Love Your Look, That Gal face brightening primer.– Makeup Forever— Aqua Eyes waterproof eyeliners.– Acqua de Parma— Colonia Intensa.– Parfums Loewe— Quizas, Quizas Quizas. Fendi Palazzo and Pucci Vivara

fragrances.

9. Lion9. Lionwww.lion.co.jpwww.lion.co.jp

• Major Products: – Oral care (toothpastes, toothbrushes mouthwashes, breath fresheners,

dental needs); beauty care (shampoos, conditioners, treatments, hair styling products, men’s hair care, soap, body washes, skin care, antiperspirants and deodorants); fabric care (laundry detergents and additives, bleaches, fabric softeners); home care (dishwashing detergents, disinfectants, household cleaners, kitchen-related products) and insecticides.

• New Products: – Household— Soflan with Fragrance and Deodorant fabric softener, Top

Kaori Tsuzuku chamomile-scented liquid laundry detergent with fabric softener, Look O2 Cleaner (joint product with Henkel), Charmy gel-based dishwasher cleaner/detergent.

– Oral care— Dentor Systema EX Extra Herb, Medish oral care gum.– Personal care— Ban Deodorant Mist, Ban Refresh Powder Sheets, Bat

hology skin care, Pro Tec Head men’s hair care.

10. Chanel10. Chanelwww.chanel.comwww.chanel.com

• Major Products: – Skin care, color cosmetics and fine fragrances.

• New Products: – Skin care— Sublimage Essential Regenerating Cream,

Hydramax + Active moisture tinted lotion SPF 15– Color cosmetics— Facettes d’or nail color; Robertson B

oulevard limited edition nail collection– Fragrance— Allure pour Homme Edition Blanche,  Cha

nce Eau Fraîche, Allure Homme Sport Cologne Sport, No. 5 Eau Première.

11. Yves Rocher11. Yves Rocherwww.yvesrocher.comwww.yvesrocher.com

• Major Products: – Skin care, cosmetics and fine fragrances marketed un

der the brand names of Yves Rocher, Daniel Jouvance, Dr. Pierre Ricaud and Kiotis.

• New Products: – Fragrance— Naturelle, Comme une évidence Homme. – Personal care— Plaisirs Nature Kiwi eau de toilette an

d shower gel– Skin care— Culture Bio.

12. Natura12. Naturawww.natura.netwww.natura.net

• Major Products: – Natura Ekos, Natura Tododia, Natura Chronos, Natur

a Mamãe e Bebê, Natura Diversa, Natura Amor América.

• New Products: – Natura Amor América, Natura Naturé, Natura Tododia,

Natura Diversa Hidratação Prolongada, Natura Chronos Politensor de Soja, Natura Aguas, Natura Fixplant, Natura Faces, Natura Mamãe e Bebe, Natura Ekos Cacau, Natura Homem Chromo, Natura Erva Doce Hidratante Facial, Natura Crer Para Ver Bolsa Amiga do Meio Ambiente.

13. GlaxoSmithKline13. GlaxoSmithKlinewww.gsk.comwww.gsk.com

• Major Products: – Toothpaste and mouthwash— Aquafresh, Dr.

Best, Macleans, Odol, Odol Med 2, Polident, Polygrip, Sensodyne

– Denture care— Polident, Polygrip, Corega.

• New Products: – Aquafresh iso-active foaming gel

14. AmorePacific14. AmorePacificwww.amorepacific.co.krwww.amorepacific.co.kr

• Major Products: – Skin care and makeup— Laneige, Iope, Mamonde, In

nisfree, Hera, Lirikos.– Fragrances— Lolita, Lempika, Castel Bajac, Espoir.

• New Products: – Sulwhasoo su Essence, ioPE Whitegen RXC, V=B Ye

ginseng, premium makeup from Laneige, Happy Bath Blue Spa Essential Body Cleanser.

15. Kosé15. Koséwww.kose.co.jpwww.kose.co.jp

• Major Products: – Skin care, cosmetics and toiletries.

• New Products: – Junkisui skin care.

16. Clarins16. Clarinswww.clarins.comwww.clarins.com

• Major Products: – Skin care, fine fragrance, color cosmetics and

sun care sold under brand names such as Clarins, Thierry Mugler, Azzaro, Stella Cadente and My Blend.

• New Products:– My Blend customizable skin care

17. Oriflame17. Oriflamewww.oriflame.comwww.oriflame.com

• Major Products: – Skin care, fragrances, color cosmetics, toiletries and a

ccessories.

• New Products: – Enigma and Radiant Lights fragrances, Optimals Radi

ance Glow self tanner, Lift Expert, Perfect Body, Lash Extreme, Royal Velvet Intensive Revitalizing Cloth Mask. Also, Diamond Musk, Silky Kiss lipstick, Diamond Cellular Anti-aging cream and Dermoprofessional Bio-Peeling Kit (all in September).

18. LG Household & Healthcare18. LG Household & Healthcarewww.lgcare.comwww.lgcare.com

• Major Products: – Household— laundry and dishwasher detergent, fabri

c softener, kitchen cleaners. – Personal care— toothpaste, shampoo, soap, baby car

e, skin care, color cosmetics and toiletries.

• New Products: – su:m 37 fermented cosmetics, Borrowing Earth house

hold products.

19. Puig19. Puigwww.puig.comwww.puig.com

• Major Products: – Fragrances— Adolofo Dominguez, Agatha Ruíz de la Prada, Ag

ue Brava, Anouk, Antonio Banderas, Barbie, Carmen Sevilla, Don Algodon, Maja, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Pachá, Quorom, Roasiro Flores, Sportman, Victori & Lucchino, Zara, Boston Man, 1916, Antonio Miro, Azur de Puig, Brummel, Eau d’Ete, Equinox, Farala, Springfield, Yacht Man Blue, Zinnia.

– Personal Care— Payot, Dennenes, Heno de Pravia, Lactovit, Vitese,   Kinesia, Maja, Agua Lavanda Puig, Maderas, Misslyn, Nelia, VF.

• New Products: – Blue Seduction for Women

20. Pierre Fabre20. Pierre Fabrewww.pierre-fabre.comwww.pierre-fabre.com

• Major Products: – Skin care and hair care products sold under the Avén

e, Ducray, Pierre Fabric Dermatologie, Klorane, Galénic and Réne Furterer banners.

• Comments: – Pierre Fabre’s Dermo-Cosmetics unit earmarks 5% of

its sales for research projects, which are conducted at its centers in Vigoulet-Auzil and Saint-Jacques Hospital in Toulouse. Research conducted in Toulouse is made possible through an  agreement between the Pierre Fabre group, the local university hospital and Toulouse University.

21. YSL Beauté21. YSL Beautéwww.guccigroup.comwww.guccigroup.com

• Major Brands: – Fragrances, cosmetics and skin care products. Brands include Y

ves Saint Laurent, Roger & Gallet, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron and Ermenegildo Zegna.

• New Products– Fragrance— Yves Saint Laurent Elle, Paris Nuit de Fete, Paris P

ont des Amours, Opium Poesie de Chine Eaux d’Orient, L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent Eau d’Été 2008, Elle Yves Saint Laurent summer fragrance 2008, Cinéma Scénario d’été, Baby Doll Magic; Ermenegildo Zegna Z Zegna Fresh; Stella McCartney Stella Sheer 2008.

– Cosmetics—LipTwins.

22. Pola22. Polawww.pola.co.jpwww.pola.co.jp

• Major Products:  – Skin Care— Alvita, Whitissimo, Day + Day Vitax, Bota

nex, 1/f, Plenna, Polissima, BA, Signs Solution 28 Carats, Signs Solution Wrinkle Shot, Evangile

– Cosmetics— Whitissimo, Silfique, Vivoke, Aniak, Maquifard, Super Suncare, Southern Call

– Body Care— Feel & Heal; Hair Care—Idea Style, Simfree Hair Color

– Men’s Care— Galantom, GR Shot S.

• New Products: – Whitissimo base makeup.

23. PZ Cussons23. PZ Cussonswww.cussons.comwww.cussons.com

• Major Products: – Personal care products sold under brands including I

mperial Leather, Joy, Cussons Kids, Premier, Carex, Baby, Luksja, Makler, Sweet Seventeen, Venus Hair, Original Source. Household product brands including Morning Fresh, Elephant, E, Radiant, Robb, Duck and Minerva.

• New Products: – Imperial Leather SkinBliss.

24. The Bolton Group24. The Bolton Groupwww.boltongroup.netwww.boltongroup.net

• Major Products: – Laundry care products—Omino Bianco, Merito, Nibro– Bathroom/kitchen care and cleaners—WC Net,  Fornet, Last,  Dubro, Soliv

aisselle– Surface & Floor Care—Carolin, SMAC, Overlay,  Vetril, WC Eend– Household soap products—Cyclon, D’orn. Personal Care—Neutro Roberts,

Borotalco, Rogé Cavaillès, Sanogyl, Somatoline,  Roberts Fragrance, Acque Alle Rose Robert, Citrosil, Botot, Wetties, Soapy, Silx

– Beauty—Collistar skin care, makeup, hair care.

• New Products: – Collistar—Long Lasting Color Line and Nourishment and Lustre Lines for h

air care, Body Energizing Treatment for men, Global Anti-Age Protection Tanning Face Cream SPF 30-50+, Supertanning Moisturizing Dry Oil SPF 15, Sun Effect Make-Up line, Topgloss Stick Reflex, Magnifica Patch-Lifting-Dermal Filling Repairing Face and Neck Mask, Perfecta Active Neck and Décolleté Cream, Magic Drops self-tanning concentrate, Brightening Touch highlighting concealer, Eye Contour Lifting Treatment for men, Perfect Adherence Shaving Foam, Moisturizing Soothing Sensitive Skins, Perfect Adherence Shaving Foam, Moisturizing Softening Tough Beards, Extreme Supermascara, Anti-Time 360° for Men. Rogé Cavaillès—Dermatological Deo-Care deodorant.

25. Sunstar25. Sunstarwww.jp.sunstar.comwww.jp.sunstar.com

• Major Products: – Oral care and beauty care products.

26. The Colomer Group26. The Colomer Groupwww.thecolomergroup.comwww.thecolomergroup.com

• Major Products: – Hair and nail care products.– Professional— Revlon Professional, Intercosmo, Modern Organi

c Products, American Crew, D:FI, Creative Nail, Tigi– Consumer— Fermodyl, Fixpray, Floïd, Geniol, Lanofil, Llonguera

s, Natural Honey, Revlon Flex, ZP11– Cosmetics— BioPoint, Burberry (license), Gatineau (license), Re

vlon (license); St DuPont (license), Ultima II (license)– Multicultural— African Pride, Arosci, Creme of Nature, Fabu-Lax

or, Revlon Realistics, Special Feeling.

• New Products: – Crème of Nature—Red Clover and Aloe Daily Breakage Relief a

nd Jojoba & Olive Oil Moisture Active Deep Conditioning treatment; African Pride—Miracle Deep Conditioning No Lye Relaxer System with Healing & Hydrating African Herbs.

27. Mandom27. Mandomwww.mandom.co.jpwww.mandom.co.jp

• Major Products: – Men’s toiletries—Gatsby and Lucido and Wo

men’s toiletries—Lucido L, Produce, Pixy and Simplity.

28. Lornamead Group28. Lornamead Groupwww.lornamead.comwww.lornamead.com

• Major Products: – Hair care— Aqua Net, Finesse, Harmony, Lypsyl, Vos

ene.– Cosmetics and skin care— CD, Handsan, Tura. Fragr

ance and bath—Woods of Windsor, Yardley. – Oral Care– Brilliant, Rapid White.

• New Products: – Vosene new shampoo range, Finesse revitalizing sha

mpoo, LypSyl Beeswax lip balm.

29. Menard29. Menardwww.menard.co.jpwww.menard.co.jp

• Major Products: – Skin care, cosmetics and fragrances.

30. Fancl30. Fanclwww.fancl.co.jpwww.fancl.co.jp

• Major Products: – Cosmetics and skin care products sold under

the Attenir, Fancl and Nicostar banners.

• New Products: – Fancl Sunguard SPF 30.