fenners complete formulary

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P AR T V.

TOILET P REP ARATIONS

AN D P E R F U ME S .

The formulae for preparations which are used for the Toilet andPerfumes would of themselves fill a large volume. In this work,th erefore, a few only of those most import an t an d m ost likely to be usedby druggists and pharmacists can be given, and our readers are

referred to the more elaborate works on this subject for furtherinform at ion if desired.

BANDOLINE.

Bandoline is intended to be used as a fixer for the hair and for othersimilar uses. Several different kinds may be made, as shown in thefollowing formu las .

4175. Rose Bandol ine .—Best Flake Tragacanth 1 ounce av., RoseWater 13 fl.ounces, Cologne Spirit 3 fl.ounces. Mix the Rose Water andCologne Spirit a nd m acera te t he Tr agacan th in th e mixtu re for severaldays, stirring frequently, then squeeze through a coarse muslinstr ainer, let st an d two or t hr ee days an d again squeeze thr ough mu slin.

This ma kes a wh ite tr an slucent prepa ra tion; if desired it ma y be coloredpink or r ed with solut ion of car mine.

4176. Qu ince Ban do l ine .— Quin ce seed coar sely powdered or br uised1

/ 2 oun ce. Ora nge F lower Wat er 13 fl.oun ces, Cologne Sp irit 3 fl.oun ces.Make in th e same m an ner as t he preceding. In eith er of th ese form ulas.Distilled Water may be used instead of Rose or Orange Flower Waterand 1 ounce of any kind of bulk perfume added in place of 1 ounce of the Cologne Spirit directed. By using hot Water the operation may begreatly ha stened.

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4177 . Bando l ine Powder .—The best Bandoline Powder is preparedfrom Qu ince Seeds, although it is n ot so light colored, an d does not yieldso mu ch liquid as t ha t pr epared from Tragacanth .

The following formulas may be used: Quince seed, in fine powder, 4oun ces, Bulk P erfume (Upper Ten or oth er) 2 fl.dra chm s. Mix th em welltogeth er. This is put u p in packages of about 1 drachm, which willma ke 3 or 4 oun ces of Ban doline wh en a dded to Water .

Tragacanth, in fine powder, 4 ounces. Acacia, in fine powder, 1 ounce,Bulk P erfumes 2 fl.dra chm s. Mix an d u se a s t he foregoing.

Powdered perfumed soap also makes a good Bandoline Powder, a fewgrain s only should be mixed with a few drops of Wat er wh en wa nt ed for

use.

COSMETICS FOR THE COMP LEXION.

In a general sense the term Cosmetic may be applied to preparationswhich are used to soften, cleanse, purify or beautify the complexion,ha ir, teeth , etc., but in th is conn ection, th e prepa ra tions only which a reapplied to "beautifying" the complexion will be noted. The preparationscontaining insoluble substances are best made by grinding them

through a paint mill, but very good preparations may be made byru bbing th em fine in a mort ar as directed in t he form ulae.

L iq u i d C o sm e t i cs .

These are mostly preparations containing some insoluble ingredientswhich are intended to beautify the complexion, making the skin whiteor of a flesh t int , an d covering ta n, freckles, etc.

4 17 8. O r i en t a l C r ea m .—Calomel 2 ounces av., Sub-Nitrat e of Bismut h

1 ounce av., Carbonate of Barium, or Oxide of Zinc,1i ounce av.. Watera sufficient quantity. Rub the powders in a mortar with successiveportions of Water, allowing the precipitate to settle, and pouring off theWater several times to wash out the impurities and make a smoothpreparation; finally, pour the precipitate into a pint bottle and addenough distilled or filtered r ain wa ter to make a pint. This prepar at ion is






similar and equal to the celebrated "Oriental Cream." It is onlynecessa ry th at good ma ter ial should be used in m ak ing it. It m ay also bemade with four ounces of Calomel in 1 pint of water, in the samemanner.

4179 . L i q u i d E n am e l , o r P ea r l.—Oxide of Zinc, Fr ench, 2 ounces av.,Prepared Chalk 2 ounces av., Calomel 1 ounce av., Essence Rose orAlmonds 1 fl.ounce. Glycerin 1 fl.ounce, Water, a sufficient quantity.Rub the powders with successive portions of Water to wash out anyimpurities and reduce them to a smooth and uniform precipitate, andfinally pour the precipitate in a pint bottle, add the Essence of Rose orAlmond a nd en ough distilled or filter ed ra in Water to mak e a pint .

4180. Cr ea m of Roses .— Car bona te of Bar ium 2 oun ces a v.. Prepar edCha lk 2 oun ces a v.. Carm ine, No. 40, 10 gra ins. Car bona te of Potas sium

5 gra ins, Glycer in 1 fl.oun ce. Rose Wat er, su fficient to ma ke a pint . Rubth e Carm ine and Ca rbona te of Pota ssium together an d add Rose Watergrad ua lly unt il it is dissolved. Mix th e Car bona te of Bar ium a nd Ch alk,an d ha ving wash ed th em by ru bbing with su ccessive port ions of Water ,put the precipitate in a pint bottle, add the Glycerin, the dissolvedCarm ine and enough Rose Wat er t o ma ke a pint.

4181. Cream of Li l ies , or Bloom of Youth .— Heavy Magnesia

( Magnesia Ponderosa) 11 / 2 ounces av., Oxide of Zinc 2 ounces av.,

Glycerin 1 fl.ounce, Water, sufficient to make a pint. Rub the Magnesia

and the Zinc with successive portions of water to wash them, transferthe precipitate to a pint bottle, and add the Glycerin and enough Waterto mak e a pint . A litt le perfum e ma y be added if desired.

4182. Liquid Rouge, or Bloom of Roses .—This is used for giving aflesh t int or red color ing to th e complexion, a lso for ad ding t o any of th eforegoing white preparations to impart a flesh tint. It is frequently putup in small bottles and furnished in a package with the whiteCosmetique. It is made as follows: Carmine, No. 40, 120 grains,Car bona te of Pota ssium (Salts of Tart ar ) 60 gra ins, Glycerin 4 fl.oun ces,

Aqua Ammonia 1 / 2 fl.ounce, Orange Flower Water 12 fl.ounces. Rub theCarmine and the Carbonate of Potassium to a fine powder, add theGlycerin, ru b th em t ogeth er, th en a dd th e Ammonia a nd Or an ge FlowerWater. A small quantity of this liquid is applied to the cheek with asponge or soft cloth an d t horoughly ru bbed in. For m ak ing a flesh t int of






th e white prepa ra tions, add from 1 to 11 / 2 fl.dra chm s to a pint .

Vinegar Rouge. True Vinegar Rouge is prepared from pure Rouge,Carthamine (from safflower) by dissolving it in Alcohol and acidulating

with Acetic Acid. An imita tion m ay be ma de by a dding Acetic Acid to asolut ion of Scar let Aniline.

C r e a m s , e t c .

For S oftenin g the S kin , Etc.

These are designed for softening the skin and removing tan, sunburn,freckles, cha p, etc. Severa l differen t kinds of prepar at ions ar e pu t up forsuch uses, and t he following form ulas ar e represent at ive of prepa ra tionsfoun d in t he ma rket :

4 1 8 3 . Cam p h o r Cr eam .— Quince Seed, in coarse powder, 60 grains,Hot Water 14 fl.ounces, Borax, powdered, 60 grains. Glycerin 2fl.oun ces, Spirit of Camph or 1 fl.oun ce. Oil of Bit ter Almonds 10 minims .Macerate the Quince Seeds for half a day with the Water and strain.Mix with th e Glycerin . Dissolve th e Oil of Bitt er Almonds in t he Sp irit of Camphor and gradually add to it the Mucilage of Quince, etc., and mixthem thoroughly.

4 1 8 4 . F r ag r an t C r eam .—Quince Seed 120 grains. Borax, in powder,

60 grains, Hot Water 12 fl.ounces, Glycerin 3 fl.ounces, Cologne 2fl.ounces. Crush the Quince Seed and macerate with the Hot Water forone hour, stirring frequently, then strain through muslin, withoutpressure, add the Glycerin and Borax, and then add the translucentsolution to the Cologne slowly, shaking them well together. One ounceof Bulk Perfume and 1 ounce of Cologne Spirit may be used instead of the Cologne. This is used for softening the skin, chap, etc. By usingdouble th e qua nt ity of Quince Seed a pr epar at ion sim ilar to "Fr ostilla "ma y be made.

4185 . Marshmal low Cream .—Tragacanth, in powder 1 / 4 ounce av.,Marshmallow Root, cut, 1 / 2 ounce av., Water 12 fl.ounces. Glycerin 3

fl.oun ces, Cologne 2 fl.oun ces. Mix th e Glycer in with th e Wat er, a dd t heTragacanth and Mallow to the mixture and agitate frequently forseveral days, then strain through a muslin strainer, add the Cologne,






let st an d two or t hr ee days and st ra in again.

4186 . Savon ia Cream .—White Castile Soap 1 ounce, Tragacanth 1 / 4

ounce. Wat er 8 fl.ounces, Glycer in 6 fl.ounces, Cologne 2 fl.ounces. Make

in the same ma nn er as th e preceding.

4187. Blandine .—Take of Albumen (white of egg) 6 ounces, Glycerin10 ounces. Oil Bitter Almonds 10 drops. Mix the Albumen with theGlycerin, and add the flavor; pass several times through a muslinstrainer to mix well and remove any "lumps." This is a fine liquidpreparation for the skin. As the Glycerin is absorbed, a thin coating of Albumen is left on the su r face, which pr otects it from th e air .

4188. Amandine .—This is a prepa ra tion int ended to whiten an d softenthe skin and prevent chaping, etc. Honey, strained, 2 ounces, WhiteSoft Soap (2908) 1 ounce, Liquor Potassa, 1 fl.drachm, Oil of SweetAlmonds 28 ounces. Oil of Bergam ot 11 / 2 drachm , Oil of Bitt er Almond s

11 / 2 drachm, Oil of Cloves 40 minims. Balsam P eru 40 minims. Rub t he

honey with th e Soft Soap in a mort ar add t he Liquor Potassa, a nd whenthoroughly mixed gradually add the Almond Oil, with which the otheroils have been previously mixed, stirring them thoroughly to form anemulsion.

4189 . Shav ing Cream .—White Wax, Sper ma ceti, Almond Oil, each 1 / 2

ounce. Shaving Soap, William's 2 small cakes. Rose Water 2 ounces.Melt the Soap with the Rose Water in a wide mouth bottle. Melt theWax Sperma ceti an d Almond Oil together an d add t o th e warm solut ionof Soap , beat ing th em a ll well together int o a crea m u nt il cool.

Another formula is, William's Soap 8 ounces. Almond Oil, Cologne andGlycerine ea ch 1 oun ce, Water 8 oun ces, ma de in t he sa me ma nn er.

4190 . Shav ing Cream fo r Meta l Tubes .—Lard 16 ounces.

Spermaceti 1 ounce. Caustic Potassa 2 ounces. Alcohol 1 / 2 ounce. Oil

Bitter Almond 20 minims. Water 16 ounces. Melt the Lard andSpermaceti together on a sand-bath. Dissolve the Caustic Potassa inhalf the Water and gradually add the solution to the melted Lard, etc.,with gent le st irr ing. Dissolve the Oil of Almond in th e Alcohol, mix withth e Water an d while th e Soap is cooling m ix it th oroughly. This m ay be






ru n into metal tu bes while warm.

F a c e a n d T o ile t P o w d e r s , e t c .

A great variety of Toilet and Face powders are found on the market,

some in t he form of powder an d some in the form of balls or solid blocksor t ablets. The following form ulas repr esent th e most desirable kinds.

4191 . Face Powder —(white).—Oxide of Zinc, English, Hubbuck's 6ounces. Precipitated Chalk, English 6 ounces, Rice Flour, Bolted 16ounces, French Chalk, very fine powder, 4 ounces, Orris Root, in veryfine powder, 4 oun ces. Oil of San tal 60 m inims , Oil of Cloves 20 minims .The Orris Root must be reduced to an impalpable powder, andthoroughly mixed with the other powders, the Oils are then to berubbed with a portion of the powder, and the remaining powder

gradually added and thoroughly mixed. The chief trouble usuallyexperienced with F ace Powders is to redu ce th em t o th e proper fineness.This is especially the case when Orris Root is used, as it is a veryrefra ctory su bsta nce to reduce to an impalpa ble powder. To obviat e th isdifficulty, th e Extra ct of Orr is (934), such a s is u sed in per fum ery, ma ybe used in place of the powdered root. It may be gradually mixed byrubbing it with the powder, and the Alcohol evaporated off by exposingfor a few hours in the open air to gentle heat. This should be donebefore a dding th e Essen tia l Oils.

Flesh . The Flesh-tint ed Powders ma y be prepar ed from th is or a ny oth erwhite powders, by first rubbing a little Carmine to an impalpablepowder, mixing it with a portion of the powder, and then graduallyincorpora ting m ore of th e powder u nt il th e desired sha de is obta ined. Itrequ ires considera ble car e to incorpora te t he Ca rm ine so th at it will notbe " str eaked," an d it m ay th erefore be a dvisable to add it in th e form of a solution, first, with a portion of the powder, and then with enoughgradu ally added to ma ke t he desired color.

4192 . Swan-Down Face Powder .—Oxide of Zinc, Hubbuck's, 4

ounces, Orris Root, in very fine powder , 11

/ 2, ounce, French Chalk 41

/ 2 oun ces. Mix them t horoughly, per fum e if desired.

4193 . P ee r l e ss F ace P o w d e r .—Fr ench Cha lk 21 / 2 oun ces. Corn Sta rch

3 ounces, Oxide of Bismu th 1 / 2 ounce, Precipitated Chalk 4 ounces. Mix






them.

4194 . Bloom of Ninon Face Powder .—Pr ecipita ted Cha lk 4 oun ces,

Sub-Carbonate of Bismuth 1 ounce, Oxide of Zinc, Hubbuck's, 21 / 2

ounces, Corn Starch 4 ounces. Mix them thoroughly and perfume withEssence of Orris and Rose. This is known also as Saunder's FacePowder.

4195 . Inv i s ib le Face Powder .— French Chalk 4 ounces, CalcinedMagnesia 1 ounce, Precipitated Chalk 2 ounces, Subcarbonate of Bismu th 1 oun ce, Car mine 30 grains. Mix them .

4196 . Complex ion Powder .—French Chalk 41 / 2 oun ces, P recipitat ed

Cha lk 3 ounces, Oxychloride of Bismu th 1 oun ce. Mix th em.

4197. Li ly Wh ite Ta blet .— The Lily White t ablets a nd solid cakes a ndballs that are found in the market consist mainly of Prepared orPr ecipita ted Cha lk 4 part s, French Cha lk 5 part s, ground together in amill with water sufficient to make a th ick pa ste, an d ru n int o th e desiredform or cut, or form ed while still moist in to the requ ired sh ape.

4198. Rose or Viole t Toi le t Powder .— The ordinary Toilet or BabyPowder which is used as a drier or dusting after washing, and bybarbers after shaving, may be made with Wheat Starch or Arrow Root,

in fine powder, 1 pound. Oxide of Zinc or Oxide of Bismuth 4 ounces.Orr is Root , in very fine powder , 21 / 2 oun ces. This ma y be perfum ed with

Essence of Rose for Rose Powder, or with Essence of Orris for VioletPowder.

D EN TI F RI CES .

Dentifrices or cosmetics for the teeth are found in the market in theforms of Tooth Powders, Tablets, Pa stes, Washes a nd liquid sapona ceous

compounds. They are mostly to be used on a brush, and are put up invarious ways to make them attractive and convenient for use. Thefollowing form ulae repr esent s t he differen t kinds of prepar at ions whichare in use :






T o ot h Wa s h e s a n d C o s m e t i c s .

4199 . Ba l m o f a Th o u sa n d F l o w er s .—This is a liquid dent ifrice, alsoused for softening the skin, shaving, etc. It may be made as follows:White Cas tile Soap 2 oun ces, Honey 4 oun ces, Wat er 12 ounces. Alcohol

4 ounces, Oil of Rose 3 drops, Oil of Wintergreen 10 drops. Oil of Cinna mon 5 dr ops, Extr act of Van illa 1 / 2 oun ce. Dissolve th e soap in t he

wat er by th e aid of hea t, a dd the H oney; dissolve th e Oils in t he Alcoholan d mix with th e solut ion of Soap , etc. After st an ding, filter.

4200. Or ienta l Tooth Wash .—Soap Bark (Quillaya) 4 ounces, OrrisRoot 2 ounces. Tannin 30 grains, Cloves 60 grains. Oil Wintergreen 2drachms, Cologne Spirit enough to make 20 ounces. Grind the drugs toa coar se powder an d m acerat e for seven days in 1 pint of Cologne Spirit;pour off the liquid and put the drugs in a percolator; pour the liquidupon the drugs and percolate, adding Cologne Spirit in the percolatoruntil 20 ounces of percolate are obtained. Dissolve the Oil of Wint ergreen in t he per colate, an d filter, if necessa ry.

4201 . Saponaceous Too th Wash .—White Castile Soap 1 ounce. OilCloves, Oil Cinnamon each 10 minims. Oil Wintergreen 15 minims. OilPepper min t 20 min ims. Hot Wa ter 4 oun ces. Alcohol or Cologne Spir it 10oun ces, Glycerin 2 oun ces. Cut th e Soap in t hin sh avings, an d dissolvein the Hot Water; dissolve the Oils in the Alcohol, add the Solution of Soap and Glycerin, and color with Cochineal or Caramel, or both; filter,

add a litt le Powdered Charcoal in th e filter .

4202. Eau Angel ique .—Angelica Root, true, 1 / 2 ounce. Red Rose

Leaves 2 drachms, Cloves 90 grains. Nutmeg, Cinnamon, each, 60

grains, Extract Vanilla 1 / 2 ounce, Oil Peppermint 30 minims, Oil

Wintergreen 20 minims, Cologne Spirit 14 ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces,Cochineal 8 grains. Grind the drugs to a fine powder and macerate forseven days with the mixed Glycerin and Cologne Spirit; pour off theliquid and put the drugs in a percolator; pour the liquid upon the drugs

and percolate, adding enough Cologne Spirit through the percolator tomake i pint. Dissolve the Oils in 2 drachms of Cologne Spirit and mixwith the liquid; then add the Extract Vanilla and filter, adding a littlePowdered Cha rcoal in th e filter .






4203. Balsamic Tooth Wash .— Compound Tincture of Benzoin,

Tincture Tolu, Tincture Myrrh, each 1 / 2 ounce. White Castile Soap 1

ounce, Hot Water 10 ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces, Cologne Spirit 3ounces, Oil Peppermint 40 minims, Oil Wintergreen 20 minims, Oil

Cloves 10 minims. Mix the Tinctures and the Cologne Spirit, anddissolve the Oils in the mixture. Cut the Soap in fine shavings, anddissolve in the Hot Water; add the Glycerin to this solution. Add thesapona ceous solution very gradu ally to the solution of Oils a nd Balsam s,allow to stand twenty-four hours, shaking occasionally, then filter,add ing a litt le Powdered Cha rcoal to the filter .

The sa pona ceous solution can be best a dded to th e balsa mic solution byput ting a cork in a fun nel so th at it will be added drop by drop.

T he solution of soap m ust a lways be add ed to the balsam ic solution.

4204 . Almond Too th Cream .—Tincture Myrrh, Tincture Tolu, each1 / 2 ounce, Oil Bitter Almonds 20 minims, Borax, powdered, 1 / 2 ounce,

Glycerin 2 oun ces. Hot Wat er 13 ounces. Mix the Tinctur es, an d dissolvein t he m ixtu re t he Oil of Bitter Almonds , dissolve th e Bora x in th e HotWater and add the Glycerin, add the solution of Borax very gradually(by dropping as d irected in th e previous formu las) to th e Tinctu res , etc.

4205 . Carbo la ted Too th Wash .—Carbolic Acid 20 grains, Alcohol 1

drachm , Ea u Angelique 1 pint , dissolve the Ca rbolic Acid in t he Alcoholand add the Eau Angelique. Carbolic Acid may be added to any of theother Tooth Washes, in the same proportion as above. It makes avaluable addit ion in ma ny cases, as it dest roys t he odor of decayed teet han d offensive breat h.

4206. Arnica Tooth Wash .— Arnica Flowers 1 ounce, Gum Myrrh 1 / 4

ounce, Cloves 60 grains. Cinnamon 60 grains. Oil Peppermint 40minims, Cologne Spirit enough t o ma ke 1 pint, grind t he dr ugs t o a finepowder and percolate with the Cologne Spirit until 1 pint is obtained,

an d add th e Oil of Pepper min t, filter if necessar y.

4207. "Sozodont."— This is a proprietary Dentifrice, a similar

preparation may be made with White Castile Soap 11 / 2 ounce av.,

Glycerin 4 fl.ounces, Cologne Spirit 6 fl.ounces. Water 6 fl.ounces. OilPeppermint 20 minims, Oil Wintergreen 30 minims. Oil Cloves, 10






minims, Extract Vanilla 1 / 2 ounce, cut the Soap in fine shavings and

dissolve it in the water by the aid of heat, then add the Glycerin andExtract Vanilla, dissolve the Oils in the Alcohol and add, and aftersta nding filter.

T o ot h P a s t e s .

Tooth past es ar e favorit e dent ifrices, made u p in t he form of a soft m assan d usua lly put u p in flat eart hen jars.

4 2 0 8 . Ch e r r y To o t h P as t e .—Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, PowderedOrris Root 8 ounces, Powdered Areca Nut 2 ounces, Powdered CuttleBone 2 ounces. Powdered Quillaya Bark 1 ounce. Borax, in powder, 1ounce, Carmine, in fine powder, or solution of Carmine, a sufficientquantity, Oil of Cloves, Oil of Nutmeg, each 40 minims, Oil of BitterAlmond 30 minims, Oil of Rose 10 minims, Glycerin, Honey andMucilage Acacia, equal quantities, each a sufficient quantity to makeinto a mass, mix the powders first and color with the Carmine orCarmine solution, then m ake into a ma ss.

4 2 0 9 . S ap o n aceo u s To o t h P as t e .—Precipitated Chalk 4 ounces,Powdered Orris Root 4 ounces, White Castile Soap 1 ounce, Powdered

Borax 1 ounce. Powdered Myrrh 1 / 2 ounce, Honey and Glycerin, equal

parts, sufficient to make a paste. This may be perfumed with

Wint ergreen, Ca ssia or other flavors , and colored with Car mine or RosePink, if desired .

4210 . Odont ine Pas te .— French Chalk 8 ounces. Soap, in powder, 4

ounces, Sugar 4 ounces. Gum Arabic, in powder, 1 / 2 oun ce, Pepperm int

Oil, Wintergreen Oil, each 1 drachm, Glycerin and Honey, sufficient toma ke a ma ss. This ma y be colored if desired.

4211 . Charcoa l Too th Pas te .—A Cha rcoal Tooth Pa ste m ay be ma deby using 4 ounces of Charcoal, in fine powder, instead of the Soap, in

th e foregoing formu la.

4212. Too th P as t e fo r Met a l Tu bes .—A Tooth Pa st e for put tin g up inmet al t ubes m ay be ma de from a ny of th e foregoing form ula s by mak ingthem m uch t hinner with th e Glycerin and H oney than when they are tobe put u p in jars or pots.

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T oo t h P o w d e r s .

Tooth Powders are the most frequently sold of any of the dentifrices,probably because they are better known and are furnished at a less

price; a great variety are found in the market. The following formulaema ke prepa ra tions similar to a few of th e best.

4213 . Too th Powder .—General formula.—Precipitated Chalk 8ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Orris Root, in powder, 3ounces, Powdered Borax 1 ounce, Oil of Cloves 10 minims, Oil of Wintergreen 2 fl.drachms. Carmine solution a sufficient quantity, mixth e powders a nd with a sma ll port ion in corpora te t he Oils and sufficientof the Carmine solution to color the batch, making a moist powder, tothis gradually add the remainder of the powder, rubbing the mixture

well togeth er un til th ey are th oroughly mixed an d of un iform color an dflavor. This may be flavored with other flavoring oils in place of thosementioned, as desired, giving it an entirely different flavor. Varioussubstances may be added to this powder, changing it in appearance,flavor, etc., but it is essentially the basis of all the other powders andmay be kept in stock for mixing other substances, as Powdered PumiceStone or Marble Dust may be used instead of Powdered Cuttle Bone,but th e latt er is generally preferable,

4214 . Carbo l i c Too th Powder .—Mix 1 / 2 ounce of Carbolic Acid with

20 oun ces of the foregoing, by rubbing it fir st with a sma ll por tion of th epowder a nd t hen incorpora ting with th e rema inder.

4 2 1 5 . C i n ch o n a To o t h P o w d e r .—Add 2 ounces of powderedCinchona Bark and 1 ounce of powdered Myrrh to 20 ounces of thegenera l Tooth Powder (4213).

4 2 1 6 . Cam p h o r a t ed To o t h P o w d e r .—Mix Camphor in fine powder 1ounce with 20 ounces of the general Tooth Powder (4213), and whenth oroughly mixed pass th rough a fine sieve.

4 2 1 7 . Q u i n i n e To o t h P o w d e r .— Mix Sulphate of Quinine 1 / 4 ounce

with 20 oun ces of th e genera l Tooth Powder (4213).

4218 . Rose Too th Powder .—Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, Powdered






Orris Root 4 ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Carmine in finepowder 2 drachms, or sufficient to color, Oil of Rose 30 minims, Oil of San ta l Wood 5 minims , Oil Cassia 5 minims, mix th em well togeth er a sdirected in t he genera l form ula.

4 2 1 9 . S ap o n aceo u s To o t h P o w d e r .— Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces,Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Powdered White Soap 4 ounces, Oil of Winter-green 2 drachms, Oil of Calamus 10 minims, mix them welltogether.

It is needless to give further formulas for tooth powders, as an infinitevariety may be ma de in t he sam e general ma nn er a s ha s been describedin the foregoing, it being only necessary to change the flavor, or color,an d add su ch other a nt iseptic or other ingredient s as m ay be desired.

4220. Tooth Table ts .— These are simply tooth powders put up in theform of cak es or squ ar es, an d m ay be m ade as follows: Powdered Cu tt leBone or Pumice Stone 4 ounces. Orris Root, in powder, 4 ounces,Carbonate of Magnesium 4 ounces. White Castile Soap 4 ounces, GumArabic, in fine powder, 1 ounce, Water 6 ounces, Essence of Wintergreen 2 ounces. Beat the Castile Soap and the Gum Arabic withthe water and Essence of Winter-green, and having mixed the otherpowders, gradually incorporate them wilh the mixture by working in amortar the same as a pill or lozenge mass. Then roll out and cut out ormar k as desired into squar es, and dry them with gent le heat .

M ou t h Wa t e r s .

In th is conn ection it is pr oper to give a few .orm ulas for Mout h Water s,which a re used for r insing th e mout h a nd t eeth, preventing bad breath ,etc.

4221 . Ea u d e Bo t o t o r Mou t h Wa t e r .—Anise Seed 10 oun ces, Ceylon

Cinnamon 21 / 4 ounces, Cloves 75 grains, Cochineal 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of

Peppermint 1 / 2 ounce, Alcohol sufficient to make 20 fl.ounces, grind the

drugs and macerate with the alcohol, then percolate until 20 ounceshave passed and dissolve the Oil of Peppermint in the percolate. This

may be more readily made with Oil of Anise 1 / 2 ounce. Oil of Cinnamon

1 dra chm . Oil Peppermint 1 / 2 ounce, Oil Cloves, 10 minims, dissolved in

Alcohol 19 fl.ounces. A teaspoonful of this is poured into half a glass of Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 12

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Warm Water for r insing th e mout h a nd t eeth. It ma y be applied to th eteeth also with a br ush , simply to clean t hem.

4222. Sal icyl ic Mouth Water .—Salicylic Acid 20 grains, Oil of Peppermint 10 drops, Oil of Wintergreen 20 drops. Alcohol 2 fl.ounces,

Ora nge Flower Wat er, Distilled Wat er, each, 21 / 2 fl.ounces, mix the Oils

an d Acid with th e Alcohol and a dd t he Wat ers. This is t o be dilut ed with2 to 4 part s of Wat er when used.

4223. Viole t Mouth Water .—Extract of Orris Root (934) 8 ounces,Essence of Rose (920) 8 ounces, Oil Bitter Almonds 5 drops, Alcohol 8oun ces, mix them . Use 1 t easpoonful in h alf a glass of wat er for rins ingth e mout h, etc.

HAIR P RE P ARATIONS.

Pr epara tions for t he Ha ir ar e put u p by most a ll dru ggists, an d a greatvar iety of Dyes, Restora t ives, Tonics, Poma des, Cosm etics, Oils, etc., ar efound in the market. The formula for Dyes, Restoratives and Tonicshave already been given in the Standard Remedies Department, andth e formu las wh ich follow will be more especially devoted to such a s a reclassed with Toilet P repa ra tions.

D ep i l a t o r i e s .

Depilatories are preparations designed to remove superfluous hair, bykilling its roots. They are but litt le used.

4224 . Dep i l a to ry Pas te .— Freshly-slacked Lime 1 ounce, Starch in

fine powder 2 drachms. Glycerin 2 ounces, Water 1 / 2 ounce; heat the

Sta rch with t he Glycerin on a sa nd-bath un til it is gelatinized; th en mixth e Lime with th e Wat er a nd st ir with th e paste un til thoroughly mixed.The hair is to be shaved off close, this is then to be applied and left onfor only a few moments (3 to 5 minutes), then removed and the partdressed with crea m or soft oint men t.

4225 . Dep i l a to ry Powder .—Arsenic 1 part, Quick Lime 8 parts, wellmixed together ; when used th is is to be mixed with Glycerite of Sta rch,or Soft Soap; it should be freshly made when wanted. As this is quite






poisonous a s well as cau st ic it should be ha ndled with cau tion.

4226. Dep i la tor y Liqu id .— Quicklime, in powder , 1 oun ce, Car bona teof Potassium 1 ounce, Sugar 2 ounces, Water 4 ounces, boil themtogether and after standing decant. The Caustic Liquid may be applied

as it is or mixed with sta rch past e.

H a i r D y es.

Formulas for Hair Dyes will be found in Part IV; but two more areappended here.

4227 . Bi smuth Hai r Dye .— Trisnitrate of Bismuth 1 ounce av..

Glycerine 31 / 2 fl.ounces, dissolve the Bismuth in the Glycerine. When

desired to use mix the Dye with an equal quantity of Water and applyas usua l.

4228 . Vanad ium Hai r Dye .— This is applied with two prepar at ions inthe same manner as the Nitrate of Silver Dye 4039, using the samemorda nt , an d then a pply th e Van adium solution in the sam e mann er asthe Silver Dye. The Vanadium Solution is made with Vanadate of Amm oniu m 10 gra ins, dissolved in Wat er 4 oun ces.

Ha i r Oi l s , E t c .

These are liquid prepara tions intended as a dressing for th e ha ir t o keepit soft and glossy, clean the scalp, etc. A great variety of suchpreparations may be made, but a few formulas only will be necessary;for, with a good base, th e perfumes m ay be varied to suit th e ta ste. Thefollowing bases may be used :

4229. Castor Oi l Base for Hai r Oi l .—Castor Oil 12 fl.ounces, Alcohol5 fl.ounces. Mix them. As Castor Oil mixes in all preparations withAlcohol this m ay be ma de th inner if desired by using a larger proport ionof Alcohol.

4230. Oth er Ha i r Oi l Bases .— Oil of Benne, Oil of Almond, Mustard Seed Oil, Oil of Cotton Seed, refined. Lard Oil, Salad Oil, Hickory Nut Oil and White Neutral Paraffin Oil, are all good bases for Hair Oils;th ey may be per fum ed with a ny combina tion of perfum ing Oils desired,and colored if desir ed as dir ected for color ing.






4231. Color ing for Hai r Oi ls .— Hair Oils are best colored Red byinfusing t hem with Alka net cont ained in a th in cott on bag, occasiona llysqueezing out th e coloring m at ter . No oth er subst an ce gives so fine a redcolor to Oils as this. The Oils may be heated or macerated cold, but it

requires longer if prepared cold. Other colors for Hair Oils are seldomrequir ed, but t hey can be colored ora nge or yellow with Ana tt o, or greenwith fresh lawn grass.

4232. Walnut Hai r Oi l .— As a sam ple of Ha ir Oils th at ma y be madeby macerating substances of various kinds in oils the following is given:

Cru sh 2 ounces of fresh green Walnu t sh ells with 1 / 4 ounce of powdered

Alum to a smooth paste; digest with 10 ounces of White NeutralParaffin Oil or any bland Vegetable Oil, as Cotton Seed or other oil,until all vapor has been driven off, then strain and perfume as desired.Fr esh Violet F lowers, Rose or Orr is or oth er odorous su bsta nces, may bema cerat ed with Oil in a similar ma nn er.

P e r f u m e s fo r H a i r O ils .

Hair Oils may be perfumed as desired with perfuming Oils or mixturesof Oils. The following mixtu res for general u se a re r ecomm ended :

4233 . Rose Oi l Per fume, cheap .— Oil of Bergamot 4 ounces, Oil of Citronella 1 ounce, Oil of Cassia or Cinnamon 3 drachms. Oil of Cloves1 / 2 dra chm . Mix th em. Of th is, from 3 to 6 dra chm s or m ore m ay be used

for each pint of Oil. If finer perfumes are desired without regard toexpense, from 1 t o 3 oun ces of Bulk P erfum e of any odor ma y be used inplace of an equal quantity of Alcohol in the Castor Oil Base, or thefollowing combina tions of Fa tt y Per fumin g Oils, etc., ma y be used to mixwith any of the other Hair Oil bases. The fatty Oils mentioned in theformulas are made by macerating the fresh flowers in Almond or OliveOil. They are imported and may be obtained of New-York jobbinghouses. These perfumes can also be used for fine pomades or stick cosmetics.

4234 . F ine Rose Oi l Per fume .— Oil or Otto of Rose 2 parts. Oil of Rose Gera nium 4 par ts, Oil of Pat chouli 1 part . Oil of Ja smine, fatt y, 10parts, Oil of Tuberose, fatty, 10 parts, Oil of Violet, fatty, 5 parts. Mixthem. This may be used as is necessary to perfume the Oil, from 2






drachm s to 1 oun ce being used t o each pin t of Oil.

4235. F i n e O r a n g e F lo w e r P e r f u m e .—Oil of Ner oli, Bigar ade, 1 par t ,Oil of Ner oli, Pet it Grain , Oil of J asmin e, fat ty, 10 par ts . Mix th em. Thisma y be used t he sa me a s th e foregoing.

4236 . I l ang I l ang Per fume .— Oil of Ilang Ilang 1 part, Oil of Tuberose, fatty, 10 parts, Oil of Violet, fatty, 5 parts. Mix them. Thismay be used the same as the foregoing. Other combinations may bemade in th e same manner.

H a i r G r o w e r s .

For promoting the growth of the hair many preparations of an oilynature are used. Several such preparations are noticed under Hair

Tonics; the following are added in this department. These arepar ticular ly used for th in or falling ha ir, baldness, etc.

4237. Hai r Grower .— Neutral Paraffin Oil or Cotton Seed Oil 1 pint,Cantharides, in coarse powder, 60 grains, Alkanet Root, in coarse

powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of Cinnamon 5 minims, Oil of Lemon 30 minims,

Oil of Citronella 10 minims, Oil of Bergamot 60 minims. Enclose theCantharides and Alkanet in a coarse muslin bag and digest in the Oilby the a id of a wa ter -bat h a t a moderat e hea t for 12 hour s, occasiona llysqueezing th e bag, and th en, when cool, add th e perfum ing oils.

4238 . Bay Hai r Grower .—Castor Oil 10 ounces av.. Tincture of Cantharides (1880) 1 fl.ounce, Cologne Spirit 5 fl.ounces. Oil of BayLeaves 20 minims , Oil of Pim ent o 5 min ims. Oil of Berga mot 30 m inims .Mix th em. This m ay be colored red if desired with Tinctu re of Alkan et.

4239. Cocoa ine o r Cocoa Cr ea m .— Cocoanut Oil 1 ounce. Castor Oil8 ounces, Cologne Spirit 7 ounces, Oil of Bergamot 1 drachm, Oil of

Lemon 1 / 2 drachm. Melt the Cocoanut Oil by gentle heat and add it to

the Castor Oil previously warmed, add the Cologne Spirit and, whencool, the flavoring Oils.

4240 . Tr i cophorus .— Castor Oil 8 ounces, Alcohol 8 ounces. Oil

Bergamot 11 / 2 drachms, Tincture Cantharides (1880) 2 drachms.

Tinctu re Alkanet, su fficient to color a light red. Mix.






4 2 4 1 . H a i r G r o w er P o m ad e .—Petrolatum 1 pound, Tincture of

Cantha rides 11 / 2 oun ce, Oil of Cinn amon 10 m inims , Oil of Bergam ot 60

minims, Oil of Citronella 20 minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims. Melt the

Petr olatu m, add th e tinctur e, and wh ile cooling a dd t he oils.

H a i r Lot i o n s .

Ha ir Lotions differ from H air Oils in cont a ining bu t litt le or n o oil. Theyare applied more freely to the hair and intended to promote its growth,an d give it a gloss or lust er, also to clean t he scalp an d r emove dan dru ff,eru ptions, et c.

4242. Almond Hair Lot ion .— Cologne 4 ounces, Glycerin 1 ounce,

Water of Ammonia 1 / 2

ounce. Bitter Almond or Cherry Laurel Water 4

ounces. Mix them.

4243. Bay Hair Lot ion .— Make the same as the foregoing, only useBay Rum in st ead of Cologne.

4244. Rose Ha i r L ot ion .— Make t he sa me a s t he first ment ioned, butuse Rose Wat er inst ead of Almond Wat er. Man y oth ers m ay be ma de inthe same manner.

4245 . S t imula t ing Hai r Lo t ion .— For thin hair, baldness, etc..Tincture of Cantharides (1880) 2 drachms. Acetic Ether 2 drachms,Glycerin 2 ounces, Bay Rum 6 ounces. Mix them. Cologne diluted withan equal quan tity of Water m ay be used instead of Bay Rum.

4246. Bay Rum .— A great many formulas for Bay Rum have beenpublished, but we have seen n o rea son t o cha nge th e form ula wh ich wepublished many years ago, which quite closely imitates the importeddistilled Bay Ru m, a nd gives excellent s at isfact ion. It was as follows: Oilof Bay Leaves 2 fl.drachms, Oil of Bergamot 30 minims, Oil of Pimenta15 minims , Acetic Et her 15 minims. Caust ic Soda , or concent rat ed Lye, 2

drachms, Cologne Spirit 31 / 2 pints, Water 41 / 2 pints. Grass-green

color ing, sufficient . Mix th e oils and dissolve th em in t he Cologne Sp irit ,dissolve the Caustic Soda in the Water and gradually add the solutionto the Alcoholic solution of the oils, then add the Acetic Ether andenough of the green coloring to give the desired color, and after






standing a few days filter through a glass funnel without using a filterra ck or a ny met allic substan ce.

4247 . Shampoo Liqu ids .— Two kinds of Shampoo Liquids are used,the "wet" and the "dry," the former being intended to be used with a

quan tity of Water t o wash t he hea d an d th e oth er t o be applied in sma llquantities and the hair rubbed until nearly dry. Of the former the twoform ulas ar e given.

4248 . Barber s ' Shampoo .— Carbonate of Potassium (Salts of Tartar)90 grains, Water of Ammonia 3 fl.ounces, Cologne 2 fl.ounces, Water,sufficient to ma ke 2 pint s. Mix and dissolve.

4249 . Cl i f fo rd ' s Shampoo Compound .— Borax 12 ounces. Salts of Tartar 4 ounces. Mix and dissolve 1 ounce of the mixture in 1 pint of

Water when want ed for use.

4250 . Dry Shampoo .— Cologne 1 ounce. Alcohol 2 ounces, Water of Amm onia 3 oun ces, Wat er 12 ounces. Mix th em. This is applied an d t heha ir ru bbed unt il th e lather first form ed has dried.

4251. Sea Foam .—Bay Rum 3 fl.ounces, Water of Ammonia 3fl.oun ces, Wat er 10 fl.oun ces. Mix them .

4252. Qui l laya Sea Foam .— Tincture of Quillaya 2 ounces, Cologne

or Bay Rum 2 oun ces, Wat er 12 oun ces. Mix th em. This does a way withth e odor of Amm onia , which is disa greea ble to ma ny.

P o m a d e s .

Pomades for the hair are fatty preparations of the consistence of ointm ent s. They were form erly made of beef ma rr ow, suet, wash ed lard,or a mixture of fats, generally perfumed and colored, but were quiteliable to spoil or become rancid by standing. Since the introduction of Petrolatum it has, in this country, taken the place of other fats as a

basis for pomades, as it is of about the right consistence, and neverbecomes ra ncid n or deter iora tes. It is t her efore directed in t he followingformulas, but if preferred, the purified suet directed for making stick poma des (4256) ma y be used as a base.

4253 . Barber s ' Pomade .—Petrolatum 16 ounces. Oil of Bergamot 60






minims, Oil of Citronella 20 minims, Oil of Cassia 10 minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims . Melt the pet rolat um an d while cooling, but st ill liquid,add the oils and mix thoroughly. If finer perfume is desired withoutregar d to expense th e fine perfumes given u nder Ha ir Oils ma y be used.

4254 . F ine Pomades .— By mixing equal parts of Petrolatum withvarious Flower Pomades No. 24, and, if necessary, adding additionalperfume, a great variety of Fine Pomades may be made, as Acacia orCassia Pomade, Rose P oma de, Ora nge F lower P oma de, Violet P oma de,etc. They may also be made by mixing Petrolatum with Purified Suet(4256), equal parts, and scenting with fine perfuming Oils as directedfor St ick P oma des. It is unn ecessa ry t o give detailed form ula s.

4255 .— Pomade Hongro i se o r Mous tache Wax .—White Wax 1

ounce, Powdered Castile Soap 1 / 2 ounce. Gum Arabic, powdered, 1 / 2

oun ce, Rose Water 1 ounce, Oil of Bergam ot 30 min ims, Oil of Thyme 3drops. Melt the Gum Arabic and the Soap in the Rose Water by gentleheat, then, having previously melted the Wax, add it gradually to themixtur e, stirr ing th em const an tly ; while cooling, add th e perfume.

It is usu ally put up in jars or pots.

S t ic k P o m a d e s o r C o s m e t i cs .

These are pomades of much firmer consistence than the foregoing,

containing considerable wax, and run in sticks. They are used for themoustache and whiskers, and for making the hair lay where it iswanted.

4256. S t ick Cosmet ic Base .—Take 10 pounds of fresh Beef Suet, cutit in small pieces, pound it in a mortar and wash it thoroughly severaltimes in pur e cold Wat er. Then put over th e fire a nd slowly "tr y it out ,"not allowing it to come to a boil (as that develops the disagreeable

animal odor), add to it when melted 21 / 2 drachms powdered Alum and

about t he sa me am oun t of Salt, th en let it come to a simmer , rem ove th escum th at rises, an d str ain t hr ough a fine wire or m uslin st ra iner, int o adeep dish partly filled with hot Water. Allow it to stand 2 or 3 hours,th at all impur e mat ter m ay settle, th en remove from the dish, melt a nd

mix 1 ounce powdered Gum Benzoin, and 1 / 2 pint Rose Water, bring to

a boil and simmer for a few minutes, skimming off all that rises to the






top, add to it 1 / 2 gallon boiling water , agita te a nd st ir th oroughly an d at

last pour off into a shallow pan to cool. This makes the same kind of purified grease that is used in making perfumed Pomades. It will keepfor an y length of time sweet an d pu re, without becoming r an cid, an d is

suited well for making any of the harder kinds of Pomades,Cosmetiques , etc.

To make the Stick Pomade, take of the Purified Suet thus prepared

10 1 / 2 ounces, White Wax or Paraffin 11 / 2 ounce. Perfume as desired.

This is sufficient to make 1 dozen 1 ounce sticks of Pomade, which maybe ma de by ru nn ing in su itable moulds.

The base ma y be perfum ed with th e mixtur es of perfum ing oils a s givenunder hair oils, or as follows: The quantity of perfuming oils stated

being for 12 ounces of the base. This may be variously perfumed withother ingredients, or colored brown with umber, black with ivory black,etc.

4257. Almo n d Cosm et ic .— 30 minims E ssen tia l Oil of Almonds.

4258. Ba y Cosm et ic .— 30 minim s Oil of Bay.

4259. Ca ss ia C osm et ic .— 30 min ims Oil of Cassia .

4 26 0. O r a n g e F l o w er Co sm e t i c .— 20 minims Oil of Ner oli.

42 61 . R o s e G e r a n i u m C o s m e t i c .— 30 minims Oil Rose Gera nium .

4262 . San ta l ina Cosmet ic .—30 minims Santal Wood Oil, 5 drops OilRose.

4263. Ver be n a Cosm et ic .— 20 minims Oil Lemon Grass.

4264. Whi te Rose Cosmet ic .—10 minims Oil Rose, 3 minims OilPatchouly.

4265. Ylang Ylang Cosmetic .—10 min ims Oil Ylan g Ylan g, 3 minim sOil Rose.






H a i r P o w d e r s .

For powdering the hair white ordinary powdered starch scented withsome kind of bulk perfume is generally used. The perfume may berubbed with a small quantity of the powder first and then with the

rema inder gradua lly added.

Silver powder is made from mica, coarsely ground, and gold powderfrom gold colored mica or Tinsel groun d or finely cut.

CO S METI C I CES A ND J ELLI ES .

The most familiar preparation of this kind is Camphor Ice, which isconsiderably used for sun-burn, tan, chap, chafe, etc. Cold cream is a

softer prepa ra tion m uch used for t he sa me pu rpose. Formu las for both of these have been given under other headings (3709), (4094), and a fewonly will be given h ere.

4266 . Camphor I ce wi th Glycer in .— Paraffin or White Wax 4ounces, White Petrolatum or Washed Lard 12 ounces, Camphor 3ounces, Glycer in 3 oun ces. Oil of Bitt er Almond 20 min ims , Oil of Rose 5minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims. Melt the Paraffin and Petrolatumtogether and remove from the fire, add the Camphor in powder andkeep warm until the Camphor is dissolved, then strain, and while

cooling add the Glycerin and Perfuming Oils, beating them welltogether until it is cool enough to set, when run into cold moulds or aflat pa n on ice. It m ay th en be cut up a s desired.

4 2 6 7 . Ca r b o l a t ed Cam p h o r I ce .— This may be made by adding 2oun ces of Car bolic Acid to the ingred ient s of the formu la 4094.

4268 . Ca r b o la t ed Cam p h o r I ce w i t h G ly ce r i n .—This ma y be madeby add ing 1 oun ce of Car bolic Acid to the ingredient s of th e formu la forCam ph or Ice with Glycer in (4266).

4269. Glycer in , Hon ey or J e l ly.— Solidified Glycerin .— Tran spar entSoap 4 ounces, Water 6 ounces, Glycerin 12 ounces. Oil Bergamot 20minims, Oil Cloves 10 minims, Oil Bitter Almonds 5 minims. Cut theSoap in thin shavings and dissolve in an evaporating dish with theWater, when dissolved add the Glycerin and boil for one hour or until






th e vapor of Water no longer r ises, an d th e liquid mea sur es only 1 pint ,when n ear ly cool stir in t he essen tial oils an d pour into a sh allow pan orboxes designed for the preparation; the perfume may be varied to suit,by using oth er combinat ions. This makes t ra nspa ren t J elly.

4270. Glycer in J e l ly.— Another method of making this is as follows:White Cast ile Soap , in powder, 140 par ts . Pur e Glycerin 210 par ts . Oil of Almonds, expressed, 1260 parts for winter use, or 1680 parts forsummer use, Oil of Bergamot 8 parts, Oil of Rose 2 parts, Oil of Lavender 4 par ts, mix th e powdered Soap a nd t he Glycerin in a Mort ar ,then add the Oil of Almonds and incorporate it by triturating rapidlyand add th e perfume. This J elly is not t ra nspar ent.

4271 . Cam p h o r a t ed G ly ce r i n H o n ey o r J e l ly .—This may be madeby adding Yz ounce of Powdered Camphor to the Glycerin Honey while

warm.

4272 . Carbo la ted Glycer in Honey .—This may be prepared by

adding Carbolic Acid 1 / 4 ounce to the Glycerin Honey while warm, the

sam e ma y also be added t o th e Cam phorat ed Glycerin H oney if desired.

4273. Glycer ine Ice .—Gelatine 2 ounces, Water 6 ounces, Glycerin 14oun ces, perfum ing Oils to suit. Dissolve th e Gelat in in t he Wat er by th ehea t of a wa ter -bat h, add th e Glycerin previously hea ted, boil un til only1 pint remains and strain, while cooling incorporate the perfumes, and

pour in to sha llow tin s, th is ma y be colored r ed or oth er color if desired. Itresem bles Ice. To apply it t he sk in sh ould first : be moisten ed with Wateran d th e cak e ru bbed over it.

4274. Glycer in e J e l ly.— Gelatin 1 ounce, Glycerin 1 pint, Boric Acid,in fine powder, 2 drachms, Water 1 pint, Bulk Perfume 1 or 2 ounces.Soak the Gelatin in the Water until soft, then heat until dissolved, addthe Glycerin and Boric Acid and strain while cooling, add the perfumeand mix thoroughly, this is a thin or soft Jelly and should be put up inpots or jar s. It is an excellent prepa ra tion for cha p, cha fe an d roughn ess

of th e skin.

4275. Ar n ica J e l ly.— This may be made by adding 4 fl.ounces of Tincture of Arnica to the Solution of Gelatin, and boiling the solutionun til only 1 pint rem ains , th en a dding th e Glycerin, etc., as before. Thefirm Arnica Jelly may be made by adding Tincture Arnica 2 ounces, to






each pint of any of the form er pr epar at ions before a dding th e Glycerin,etc., other substances may be combined with the Jellies in the samemanner.

LOTIONS.

Lotions a re int ended to whiten a nd soften th e skin, remove pimples, tan ,freckles, sunburn, etc. The milks are also included under this heading,as t hey ar e employed for similar pur poses.

4276 . Moth and F reck le Lo t ion .—Bichloride of Mercury 60 grains,Chloride of Ammonium 240 grains, Alcohol 3 flounces, Rose or OrangeFlower Water 3 flounces, Water 10 fl.ounces. Rub the corrosivesublimate to a fine powder and dissolve it in the Alcohol, dissolve the

Chloride of Ammonium in the Water, add the Rose or Orange FlowerWater an d m ix with th e Alcoholic solution, a fter sta nding a day or t wo,filter. This may be applied once or twice a day with a soft sponge orlinen cloth an d will quickly rem ove moth or freckles, ta n, et c.

4277. Ant i -Freckle Lot ion .—Bichloride of Mercury 12 grains.

Hydr ochloric Acid 3 fl.dr achm s. Bitt er Almonds 11 / 2 ounces, Glycerin 1

ounce, Tincture Benzoin 2 drachms. Orange Flower Water sufficient tomake 1 pint. Dissolve the Bichloride of Mercury in 3 ounces of theOrange Flower Water, add the Hydrochloric Acid and set acide. Blanch

the Almonds and bruise them to a paste in a mortar with the Glycerinand add sufficient Orange Flower Water to make about 12 ounces of Cream or Milk of Almonds, add to this the Tincture of Benzoin, drop bydrop, rubbing them well together, then add the solution of Bichloride of Mercury, and enough Orange Flower Water to make a pint and strainth e whole forcibly th rough a cheese cloth str ainer to rem ove the coar serparticles of Almond.

4278. Freckle Lot ion .—Sulpho-Carbolate of Zinc 1 / 4 ounce av.,

Glycerin 3 ounces av.. Alcohol 2 fl.ounces, Orange Flower Water 3fl.oun ces, Rose Wat er sufficient to ma ke a pint . Mix, dissolve an d filter .

4279. Face Lotion .—Bitter Almonds, Sweet Almonds, each, 1 ounce,

Oil of Almonds 1 ounce, Spermaceti 1 / 2 ounce. Borax, in powder, 1 / 4

ounce, Glycerin 4 ounces. Rose or Orange Flower Water sufficient to






4283. Lai t Virg inal .— Tincture of Benzoin 1 / 2 ounce, Cologne 2

ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces, Rose Water or other Perfumed Water 12ounces; mix the Tincture of Benzoin with the Cologne, and havingmixed the Water and Glycerin arrange a funnel in such a manner that

the latter mixture will fall drop by drop into the former, by whichprocess little or no precipita tion of the r esinous ma tt er is form ed, but afine, smooth, milky preparation is produced. This is much used as awash for th e complexion. Tinctu re of Myrrh, or Tinctu re of Tolu, ma y beused inst ead of Tinctu re of Benzoin in t his pr epar at ion.

4284. Glycer in Lot ions .—Quite a variety of preparations are sold asGlycerin Lotions, the most common being Rose Water and Glycerin,equal parts of each, mixed; or two parts of Rose Water to one of Glycerin. Lime Juice and Glycerin, usually made with equal parts of Lime Juice, Glycerin Rose Water, is also a favorite application for tanan d freckles, and is somet imes applied to the ha ir. Oth er Wat ers m ay beused instead of Rose Water; Cherry Laurel or Orange Flower Water,ma king fine preparat ions.

4285. Hair Gloss .—Glycerin 12 ounces, Cologne 4 ounces. Mix them.Ha ir Gloss m ay a lso be ma de with Glycerin a nd Rose Wat er, or Or an geFlower Water , mixed equa l part s by mea sur e.

LIP SALVES AND COSMETICS.

Lip Salves are used for softening the lips, preventing them fromcracking, curing sores, etc., and are sometimes employed to impart a,color to them . The following form ula s will suffice. Lip Sa lves a re u su allyput up in sma ll met al, glass or porcelain boxes.

4286. Lip Salve .—Oil of Sweet Almond 4 ounces, White Wax,Sperma ceti, each, 1 oun ce, Essent ial Oil of Almonds, Oil of Bay Leaves,each, 15 drops. Melt t he Wax an d Sperm aceti together , add th e AlmondOil an d while cooling the P erfum ing Oils, and s tir cons ta nt ly un til cold.

4287 Lip Sa lve .—The foregoing preparation is liable to deteriorate byage, this one will keep indefinat ely an d is to be preferr ed. Petr olatu m 8

ounces. White Wax or Paraffin 11 / 2 ounce, Tannin 1 drachm, Oil of

Lavender, Oil of Bergamot, each,1 drachm, Oil of Rose Geranium 2






drachms. Melt the Petrolatum and wax together and add the Tannin;while cooling, add the oils an d st ir u nt il cold.

4288. Cor a l Lip Sa lve .—This may be made by adding to either of theforegoing formu las, 10 gra ins of Carmin e for each oun ce of th e lip salve.

It is best reduced to a fine powder in a mort ar an d th en r ubbed with asmall portion of the salve, to a smooth mass, the remainder beinggradu ally mixed with it.

NAIL COSME TICS.

Powder and ointment for the nails is sometimes called for as toiletprepar at ions, an d ma y readily be made by druggists.

4289 . Na i l o r Manicure Powder .— This is for polishing, smoothingand cleaning the nails. Pumice Stone, in powder, 8 ounces. PowderedFrench Chalk 2 ounces, Carmine No. 40, in powder, 1 drachm, Bulk

Per fume, Rose or Violet 1 / 2 ounce.

4290. Na i l o r Man icur e Sa lve .—This is for soften ing th e na ils, cur ingha ng n ails, etc. Pet rolat um 1 oun ce, Cast ile Soap, in powder, 1 dra chm .Oil of Bergamot 10 drops, or other more expensive perfuming Oils if desired. Mix them thoroughly. This is to be applied at night and thefingers covered with gloves.

P E R F U ME S F O R T H E H A ND KE R C H I E F .

Handkerchief Extracts, or "Perfumes" as they are popularly called, arekept by nearly all druggists and constitute quite an important part of th eir tr ade. It will be inexpedient in th is volume t o give anyth ing but abrief outline of the manner of making them, and a very few formulasfor th e more popular odors . They ar e ma de by but few dru ggists, — notbecause they are difficult to make, but because it is difficult and

expensive to obtain the material requisite to manufacture them. Thefollowing ar e t he extra cts, essen ces, etc., necessa ry t o be made an d k epton hand for the manufacture of perfumes. The processes are adapted tothe conveniences always at hand. Perfume Laboratories are suppliedwith ma chiner y for t he pur pose.






CL ASS A.

E x t r a c t s of F l ow e r s fr o m P o m a d e s .

The Pomades used for making these Extracts are prepared by

Enfleurage (see Part III), and may be obtained of perfumers and New-York jobbers . They cost from $2.00 t o $2.50 per pound , some of th em, a sViolet, cost ing m uch more.

4 2 9 1 . To m ak e Tr i p l e Ex t r ac t s f r o m P o m ad es .—First . Take equalparts, by weight, of the required Pomade and the strongest CologneSpirit (Deodorized Alcohol). Divide the Pomade into three equal parts,an d pu t one pa rt (one-third) of the P oma de an d a ll of th e Cologne Spiritin a glass or copper jar that will hold double the quantity, and can bestopped air-tight. (An ordinary glass fruit jar is just the thing for small

quantities.)

Put the jar in a water-bath, and keep at only a moderate heat (justsufficient to keep the Pomade melted) for three or four days, agitatingfrequently, then remove from the water-bath, cool, and pour the liquidextract from the Pomade. This product may be termed the SingleExtract.

Second . Take another part (one-third) of the fresh Pomade, andmacerate it in the same manner as before, with the Extract which has

been obtained from the first maceration. This product may be termedth e Double Extra ct.

Third . Take th e rema ining th ird of the fresh Poma de, an d ma cerat e itin the same manner as before, with the product of the previousmacerations.

When this maceration is completed, surround the jar containing thePomade and Extract with ice, that all particles of fatty matter may becongealed. When thoroughly cold, pour off the Extract, straining

th rough a litt le cott on wool into bott les, and keep closely stopped.

This constitutes the Triple Extract, and is the finest and strongestExtr act tha t can be obtained.

The Poma de tha t r emains a fter t he Extr act has been pour ed off ma y be






again treated in a similar manner with Fresh Cologne Spirit, and theproduct will be a very fine Extr act, but not a s st rong as t he firs t. It will,perh aps , about corr espond t o th e Single Extr act, which m ay be used foran oth er ba tch, or for ma king Colognes or chea p P erfumes.

After th e Pomade h as been th us successively tr eat ed, it is called WashedPomade, and is very good for making Cosmetics and Pomades for thehair.

The following list em bra ces th e Extr acts ma de in t he m an ner described,from Pomades rea dily obta inable in t he m ar ket.

4292. Tr ip le Ex t r ac t Cass ie o r Acac ia .—Fr om Cassie Poma de.

4293. T r i p l e E x t r a c t J a s m i n e .— From J asm ine Poma de.

4 2 9 4 . T r i p l e Ex t r ac t O r an g e F l o w er s .—From Orange FlowerPomade.

4295. Tr ip le Ex t r ac t Rose .— Fr om Rose Poma de.

4296. Tr ip le Ex t r ac t Tu ber ose .—Fr om Tuberose Pomade.

4297. Tr ip le E xt r a c t Viole t .— Fr om Violet Pomade.

Others may be made in t he same man ner.

The Extracts as thus prepared, are used only for combinations. Theyrequire something to give them permanence before putting up for sale,an d Ha ndkerchief Extr acts of the sam e na me cont ain su ch additions.

CLASS B.

E s s e n c e s f r o m E s s e n t i a l O ils .

These a re simply solutions of the best qua lity of Ott os or E ssent ial Oils,in t he s t rongest Cologne Sp irit (deodorized Alcohol).

They are chiefly used in combining with other perfumes, and theyshould be kept on h an d, prepared in sm all qua nt ities ready for use.






4298. Es sen ce Alm on d .— Oil of Bit ter Almonds, 1 par t,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

4 29 9. Es sen ce Be r g am o t .- Oil of Bergamot , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

4300. Essen ce Ca ss ia .— Oil of Cassia , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

4301. Es sen ce Cloves .— Oil of Cloves, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 15 pans.

4302. Essen ce Laven d er .— Oil of Lavender , English , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

4303. Ess en ce Lem on .— Oil of Lemon, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 pans.

4 30 4. Es sen ce Lem o n -g r a s s o r Ve r b en a .—Oil of Lemon-grass, 1 pa r t,Cologne Spir it, 15 par ts.

4305. Ess en ce Ner ol i.— Oil of Neroli (Bigarade), 1 pa r t,Cologne Spir it , 15 parts.

4 30 6. Es sen ce O r an g e .— Oil of Orange Peel, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

4 30 7. Es sen ce P a t ch o u l y .— Oil of Patchouly, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 20 parts.

4308. Esse n ce R ose .— Oil of Rose (best Kissan lik) 1 par t,Cologne Spir it , 60 parts.

4 30 9. Es sen ce Ro se G e r an i u m .—Oil Rose Geranium, 1 par t,

Cologne Spir it , 20 parts.

4 31 0. Es sen ce Ro sem ar y .— Oil of Rosemary, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.






4 31 1. Es sen ce S a n t a l .— Oil Sa nt alwood (t ru e), 1 pa rt ,Cologne Spir it , 20 parts.

4312. Essen ce Ylan g Ylan g .— Oil Ylang Yla ng, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 60 parts.

CLASS C.

E x t r a c t s or T i n c t u r e s fr o m O d o r o u s S u b s t a n c e s.

These are E xtra cts or Tinctu res of Odorous Substa nces th at ar e used inPerfumes, chiefly to give permanence to the more volatile odors. Theyshould be kept on hand ready to combine as desired. Most of themrequ ire long ma cera tion t o extract their odorous pr inciple.

4 31 3. Ex t r ac t Am b er g r i s .— Ambergr is, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 60 parts.

Rub the Ambergris fine and macerate for thirty days in warm place, ina t ight ly stopped bott le.

4314. Ex t r a c t Ange l ica .— Angelica Root (t rue), 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 4 par ts.

Reduce the Angelica Root to coarse powder, and macerate for thirtydays with t he Cologne Spirit. Press out an d filter .

4315. Ex t r a c t Civet .— Civet , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 60 part s.Macera te for t hirt y days in a tightly stopped bott le in a warm place.

4316. Ex t r a c t Mu sk .- Fine Gra in Musk 2 par t s,Ca r bon a te of P ot assiu m, 1 pa r t,Cologne Spir it , 120 par ts.

Macera te for t hirt y days in a warm place in a tightly stopped bott le.

4317. E x t r a c t M u s k R o o t o r S u m b u l .—

Sumbul Root , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 4 parts..Reduce th e Musk Root t o a coar se powder, an d ma cera te for t hirt y days..Express a nd filter.






4 31 8. Ex t r ac t Mu sk S eed o r Am b r e t t e .—Musk Seed, 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 4 par ts.

Macera te for th irty days. Express a nd filter.

4319. Ex t r a c t Or r i s o r Vio le t .—Orris Root , 3 par t s,Cologne Sp irit enough

to make 4 par ts.Reduce th e Orr is Root t o a coar se powder, an d. macerat e for t hirt y dayswith four parts of Cologne Spirit, then transfer to a percolator andpercolate, adding fresh Spirit th rough th e percolator un til four par ts a reobta ined. This is mu ch u sed as a subst itut e for Violet.

4 32 0. Ex t r ac t To n q u a . — Tonqua Beans, 1 par t ,

Cologne Spir it , 9 par t s.Cut t he beans fine, cru sh, and ma cerat e for th irty days.

4321. Ex t r a c t Van i ll a .— Vanilla , 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 9 par ts.

Cut the Vanilla in fine pieces and rub with White Sand to a coarsepowder, add the Cologne Spirit and macerate for thirty days in a warmplace.

4322. Ex t r ac t Wi ld Ginger .— Wild Ginger (Can ad a Sn ak e

Root), 1 par t ,Cologne Spir it , 4 par ts.Reduce the dr ug to a coar se powder, and m acerat e for t hirt y days in t heCologne Spirit. E xpress a nd filter .

Balsam Peru, Tolu, Benzoin, Styrax, and some other odoriferous bodiesare also used in perfumes, but no special extract need be prepared of them, 1 part to 9 of Cologne Spirit being used to make an extract ortincture.

The druggist will, of course, make up these preparations in suchqua nt ities only as his t ra de deman ds, but it is best to have some of eachkind on h an d.

The Citrine Oils, Bergamot, Lemon and Orange, change quickly if notdissolved in spirit, and it will be found advantageous to dissolve these,






while fresh , in Cologne Spirit, an d keep t hem in t his wa y.

ODORS OF FLOWERS,

O r H a n d k e r c h i e f E x t r a c t s .

Having now prepared the elements, as they may be termed, of Perfumery (Classes A, B and C), the druggist may prepare anycombination that may be desired. The formulas which follow are forthose which have the most sale on the market, and which time hasdemonstr at ed to be good a nd sala ble perfum es. There m ay be of cour seas m an y combinations of odors as th ere ar e sta rs in th e heavens: but itis not best t o encour age a mu ltiplicity of odors , but r at her a fam iliar itywith a few good ones, which will soon come to be favorites with the

cust omer s of th e dru ggist.

Since the introduction of bulk perfumes, many old and favorite odorsha ve gone out of use, an d ma ny new ones come in. No sta nda rd h as yetbeen established for many of the newly-named perfumes, and they areput up as the fancy of the fabricateur and the harmony of odors maydirect.

The formulae which follow make only the best grade or quality of perfumes. If the druggist desires to make cheaper goods, any of these

may be diluted with Cologne Spirit to meet the desired cost. And in factth is is mu ch bett er t ha n t o tr y to ma ke th em cheaper by using inferiormaterial, because, although they may be weak, they will preserve theirpur ity a nd delicacy of odor.

For oth er combina tions our r eader s ar e referr ed to more elaborat e work son t he su bject, an d to the pu blished formu las from r eliable sour ces.

The essences, extracts, etc., which are directed to be used in theform ulas ar e th ose which ar e given in t he foregoing classes.

4323 . Essence Bouque t — Esprit de Bouquet .—Essence Rose 8 parts,Essence Lemon 1 part, Essence Bergamot, Extract Orris, each, 4 parts.Extr act Ambergris, Essence Sant al, each, 1 par t. Mix.

4 3 2 4 . E x t r a c t F r a n g i p a n n i .—Essence Neroli, Essence Rose, each, 2






parts. Essence Santal, Essence Cassia, Essence Rose Geranium, each, 1part, Extract Musk, Extract Ambergris, Extract Civet, each, 1 part,Triple Extract Tuberose, Triple Extract Orange Flowers, each, 2 parts,Cologne Spir it 5 pa r t s. Mix.

4325. Ex t r ac t J ockey Club .— Triple Extract Rose, Triple ExtractTuberose, each, 4 parts. Triple Extract Cassie, Triple Extract Jasmine,each, 2 par ts. Extr act Orr is 3 part s, Extra ct Ambergris, Extr act Civet,each, 1 par t, Es sence Rose 2 par ts , Cologne Spirit 5 pa rt s. Mix.

4326. Ext rac t Li ly of the Val ley .— Triple Extract Tuberose 8 parts,Triple Extract Jasmine 1 part. Triple Extract Orange Flower, TripleExtr act Cassie 2 par ts, Triple Extra ct Rose 4 par ts. Essence Ylang Ylang

1 par t, Essence Almonds 1 / 4 par t, Extr act Vanilla 3 pa rt s, Cologne Spirit

5 par ts. Mix.

4327 . Ex t r ac t Musk .—Extr act Musk 10 part s, Extra ct Civet, Extr actAmbergris, Extract Musk Seed, each, 4 parts, Essence Rose 3 parts,Extract Wild Ginger 1 part, Cologne Spirit 5 to 20 parts, according tostr ength desired. Mix.

4328 . Ex t r ac t Nigh t Blooming Cereus .— Triple Extract Rose 8parts, Triple Extract Orange Flower 2 parts. Essence Neroli 2 parts.Extract Vanilla 2 parts, Extract Orris 3 parts. Extract Musk, Extract

Civet, each, 1 par t. Essen ce Almond 1 / 10 par t, Tinctu re Benzoin 1 / 20 part .

Mix.

4 3 2 9 . Ex t r ac t Mar y S t ew ar t .—Triple Extract Rose 3 parts. TripleExtract Cassie 1 part, Triple Extract Tuberose 2 parts, Essence Rose 3parts, Essence Ylang Ylang 2 parts, Essence Rose Geranium 2 parts,

Essence Orange 1 / 4 part , Extract Orris 2 parts, Extract Musk 1 part ,

Extract Ambergris 1 part. Tincture Benzoin, Extract Tonqua, each, 1 / 4

par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts . Mix.

4 33 0. Ex t r ac t I lan g -I lan g , or Ylang- Ylan g.— Essen ce Ylan g-Ylan g 8parts, Essence Rose 2 parts, Extract Orris 2 parts. Triple ExtractJ asm ine, Extr act Musk, Essence Ora nge, each 1 par t. Mix.

4 3 3 1 . Ex t r ac t O cean S p r ay , o r S ea Br eeze .—Triple ExtractJasmine, Triple Extract Cassia, each, 4 parts, Triple Extract Rose 6






parts. Essence Bergamot, Essence Lavender, each, 3 parts, EssenceSantal 1 part. Extract Ambergris, Extract Civet, each, 1 part, CologneSpirit 5 par ts. Mix.

4 3 3 2 . Ex t r ac t P a t ch o u l y .— Essence Pat chouly 8 par ts. E ssence Rose,

Essence Rose Gera niu m, each, 2 pa r ts , Cologne Spirit 4 pa rt s. Mix.

4333. Ext r a c t Wild Ol ive .—Triple Extr act Rose 8 par ts. Triple Extr actJasmine, Triple Extract Violet, each, 4 parts. Triple Extract Cassie 2par ts, Essen ce Rose 4 par ts, Essen ce Ylang Ylang 2 par ts. Extr act Musk,

Essence Amber gris, each, 1 / 2 par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts. Mix.

4334. Ex t r ac t Wh i te R ose .—Triple Extr act Rose, Triple Ext ract Violet(or E xtra ct Or ris), Essence Rose, each, 4 par ts, Triple Extra ct J asm ine 2par ts. Essen ce Pa tchouly 1 par t. Mix. This may be dilut ed with 4 par ts of Cologne Spirit if desired.

4 3 3 5 . Ex t r ac t S t ep h an o t i s .—Triple Extract Cassie, Triple ExtractTuberose, each, 4 par ts, Triple Extr act J asmine 2 par ts. Essence Rose 3parts. Extract Musk, Extract Tonqua, Essence Neroli, each, 2 parts,Extract Orris 8 parts, Extract Wild Ginger r part. Tincture Benzoin 1par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts . Mix.

4336 . Ex t r ac t Upper Ten .—Triple Extract Rose, Triple ExtractJasmine, Triple Extract Violet (or Extract Orris), each, 6 parts. Extract

Musk 4 par ts , Cologne Spirit 6 pa rt s. Mix.

4337. Ext rac t Viole t —Finest .—Triple E xtr act of Violet (from pomad e)16 parts, Triple Extract Cassie 3 parts. Extract Orris 4 parts. TinctureTolu 1 pa rt . Tinctu re Van illa 1 pa rt , Cologne Spirit 6 pa rt s. Mix.

4338. Extract Violet —Good .—A good Extract of Violet, such as isordinarily sold, may be made with Triple Extract Cassie 2 parts, TripleExtract Rose, Triple Extract Tuberose, each, 1 part, Extract Orris 6

par ts, Essence Almonds 1 / 20 par t. Tinctu re Tolu 1 pa rt , Cologne Spirit 3

par ts. Mix,

The formulas given for handkerchief extracts are merely sampleform ulas r epresentat ive of combinations th at ar e popular on th e ma rket.A great variety of other odors by various names are found, and may be






ma de by druggists by combinin g var ious ext racts, essences, etc.

COLOGNES AND TOILE T WATER S.

Colognes are fragrant compounds of much less strength andperm an ence of odor th an th e foregoing Extr acts.

In addition to their legitimate use as toilet waters, they now take theplace, to a large extent, of the cheaper grades of perfume that wereformerly sold.

As with t he H an dkerchief Extr acts, the combinations t ha t ma y be madeare almost infinite, though but few have ever met with great publicfavor.

The formulae which follow represent those most widely known andesteemed a s Colognes; but , as an y of th e Ha ndk erchief Extr acts ma y bemade into Colognes, by following the "General Cologne Formula," thedru ggist ma y choose such as su its his fan cy, an d ha ve as lar ge a var ietyas h e pleases.

Colognes prepared from the Handkerchief Extracts may also be put upas cheap perfumes; the gra des tha t t he dru ggist wishes to prepare ma ybe regulat ed by the am oun t of Cologne Spirit a dded.

For second grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part,Cologne Spirit 1 pa rt .

For third grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part, CologneSpirit 2 parts, and for Colognes, the following General CologneFormula: Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 3 parts, Water(distilled)1 q. s.

Mix th e Extr act with t wo an d a h alf par ts of th e Cologne Spirit, and a dd

Water gradually until, when shaken up, it remains, after standing ashort time, just a trifle cloudy or milky, then add the balance of theCologne Spirit, an d set awa y for a month or more before u sing.1 If Rose Water or Orange Flower Water is added instead of Distilled Water, theproduct will be finer. Rose Water ma y be used with a ll Extr acts, but Or an ge FlowerWater is prefera ble in th ose compoun ds which cont ain Tr iple Extr act Ora nge Flowersor Essen ce Neroli.






These Colognes may be named from the Extracts of which they aremade, as White Rose Cologne, Marie Stewart Cologne, Upper TenCologne, etc., and the druggist may have no lack of cheaper grades of per fum es a nd Colognes by following these directions.

4339. Fa r ina Co logne .— Essence Bergam ot 10 par ts, E ssence Neroli 1par t, Essence Lavender 2 par ts, Essen ce Lemon 2 par ts. Essen ce Oran ge2 parts, Essence Cloves 1 part, Essence Cassia 1 part, Essence Rose 2parts, Essence Rose Geranium 1 part, Triple Extract Jasmine 6 parts,Extract Angelica 1 part. Extract Orris 3 parts. Extract Musk Seed 2parts. Essence Nutmeg 1 part. Essence Spearmint 2 parts. Essence

Cedrat, 2 parts, Essence Thyme 1 / 2 part. Essence Cajeput 1 / 2 part ,

Cologne Spirit 400 parts. Distilled Water 60 parts. Mix the Essences,etc., with the Cologne Spirit, and gradually add the Water. If it shouldremain milky after the addition of the Water, add enough CologneSpirit t o clear .

4340. F lora l Cologne .— Essence Bergam ot 10 par ts, Es sence Cassia 4parts, Essence Orange 6 parts, Essence Lavender 2 parts, EssenceLemon 6 par ts, Essence Sant al 2 pa rt s, Essence Neroli 2 par ts. EssenceRose Geranium 4 parts, Extract Orris 4 parts, Extract Tonqua 2 parts.Extract Ambergris 2 parts, Cologne Spirit 300 parts, Rose Water 50par ts. Mix th e Essen ces, etc., with th e Cologne Spirit, an d gra dua lly addthe Rose Water. If milky after standing, add enough Cologne Spirit to

ma ke clear.

4341. German Cologne, 1s t .—Essence Rose Geranium 8 parts,Essence Orange 10 parts, Essence Cassia 6 parts, Essence Bergamot 10par ts, Es sence Cloves 1 par t. Essence Neroli 2 par ts. Essence Lavender 4par ts, Essence Rose 4 par ts. Essence Verbena 2 par ts. Essence Sant al 4parts. Extract Ambergris 1 part, Extract Musk i part. TinctureCardamom 1 part, Cologne Spirit 300 parts, Rose Water 50 parts. Mixthe Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the Rose Watergrad ua lly, an d t hen if milky, enough more Cologne Spirit t o make clear .

4342. German Cologne, 2d .—Essence Bergamot 10 parts, EssenceLemon 6 parts, Essence Orange 6 parts, Essence Rosemary 6 parts,Essence Cassia 4 parts. Extract Orris 4 parts. Extract Tonqua 2 parts,Extr act Musk Seed 4 part s. Extra ct Angelica 1 pa rt . Extra ct Wild Ginger2 parts, Tincture Benzoin 1 part, Cologne Spirit 400 parts, Rose Water






60 parts. Mix the Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the RoseWater gradually, and if milky, enough more Cologne Spirit to makeclear.

4343 . Lavender Co logne , o r Wate r .— Essence Lavender 3 parts.

Essence Lemon 2 parts. Essence Cassia 1 part, Essence Cloves 1 part,Essence Santal 1 part, Cologne Spirit 60 parts. Water 10 parts. Mix theEssences with the Cologne Spirit, add the Water gradually, and thenenough Cologne Sp irit to clear , if milky.

4344. Musk Cologne .— Essence Bergamot 2 parts, Essence Lavender2 parts. Essence Lemon 4 parts, Essence Neroli, 1 part, Extract Musk 4parts. Cologne Spirit 60 parts. Rose Water 10 parts. Mix the Essences,etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the Rose Water gradually, and thenenough Cologne Spir it t o mak e clear , if milky.

4345. Whi te Rose Cologne .— Oil Neroli Bigarade 1 drachm, Oil

Neroli, Pet it gra in, 1 / 2 dra chm , Oil Bergamot 2 dr achms, Oil Pat chouly 1

drachm. Oil Rose 3 drachms, Extract Musk 2 ounces, Tincture Tolu 2ounces, Cologne Spirit 7 pints. Rose Water 1 pint. Dissolve the Oils inth e Spirit, an d add th e Rose Wat er, let st an d 30 days, and filter.

4346 . Hoyt ' s German Cologne .— The following formula has beenpublished as similar to Hoyt's German Cologne: Oil Bergamot 1 ounce.

Oil Lemon 1 ounce. Oil Neroli 1 / 4 ounce, Oil Santal Wood 1 / 2 ounce,

Cam phor 20 gra ins, Cologne Spirit 7 pint s, Rose Water 1 pint. Mix an dlet st and a month , then filter.

4347. F lor ida Wa te r .— Oil of Lavender Flowers, English, 6 fl.dr achm s,

Oil of Bergamot 2 fl.drachms, Oil of Lemon 11 / 2 fl.drachm, Oil of Cloves

20 minims, Oil of Cassia 10 minims, Oil of Orange 30 minims, EssenceRose 60 m inims , Essence Ner oli 10 minim s, Cologne Sp irit 15 fl.oun ces.Mix them.

4348. Violet Water .— This may be made by diluting Extract of Violetwith 4 pa rt s of Cologne Spirit. Other Toilet Wat ers m ay be ma de in th esame general man ner.

4349 . Other Co lognes and To i l e t Wate r s may be made by thegeneral formula. They may be made as the fancy of the maker may






select, and may be made stronger or weaker as may be desired, tocorr espond with t he tr ade for which th ey ar e ma de.

SACHE T P OWDER S.

A great variety of Sachet Powders may be made by adding to anAromatic Base, composed of Ground Roots, Barks, Woods, Flowers,Leaves, etc., Bulk Perfumes or Essential Oils. A few formulas for thebest selling powders are given here, and others may be made in thesam e genera l way.

4 3 5 0 . G en e r a l Base f o r S ach e t P o w d e r .—Orris Root, in coarsepowder, 1 pound, Santal Wood, ground, 4 ounces. Vanilla Beans,ground or cut fine, 1 ounce. Rose Leaves, (flowers,) ground, 6 ounces.

Extract Musk, 1 / 2 ounce. Extract Civet, 1 / 2 ounce. Mix them welltogeth er. To mak e a ny var iety of Sachet Powder, a dd t o 8 oun ces of th is1 ounce of the Bulk Perfume, of the kind desired and mix themthoroughly.

The following ar e formu las for t hose most popula r :

4351 . F r an g ip a n i S ach e t .—Powdered Or r is 3 pound s. Groun d Vitivert1 / 4 lb., Ground Santal 1 / 4 pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 1 / 4 pound,

Ground Tonquin Beans 2 ounces. Oil Neroli 60 minims, Oil Santal 40minims. Oil Bergam ot 60 minims , Oil Fr ench Geran ium 60 minims . Ott o

Rose 30 minims, Extract Musk 1 ounce, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce. Mix

well.

4352 . He l io t rope Sache t .—Powdered Orris 1 / 2 pounds. Ground Rose

Leaves 1 pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 6 ounces, Ground Tonquin

Beans 4 ounces. Extract Musk 11 / 2 ounces, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce.

Essentia l Oil of Almonds 7 m inims. Mix.

4353. Rose Sa ch et .—Powdered Or ris 1 / 2 pound. Ground Rose Leaves 1

1 / 2 lbs., Ground Santal Wood 4 ounces. Ground Patchouly 2 ounces,

Extract Civet 1 / 2 oun ce. Oil Fr ench Gera nium 30 minims, Ott o Rose 20

minims. Mix.






4354. J ockey Club Sa ch e t .— Powdered Orris 3 pounds. Ground

Santal Wood 1 / 2 pound, Oil Bergamot 1 ounce, Otto Rose 30 minims,

Extr act Musk 2 oun ces. Extra ct Civet 1 ounce.

4355 . Es sen ce Bo u q u e t S ach e t .—Powdered Orr is 4 pounds, Groun dCassie Leaves (Flowers) 1 pound, Ground Rose Leaves (Flowers) 1pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 3 ounces, Essence Bergamot 1 ounce,Essence Lemon 1 ounce. Oil Fr ench Geran ium 60 minims . Extra ct Mu sk

2 oun ces, Extr act Ambergris 1 / 2 ounce.

4356. Ylang-Ylang Sachet .—Ground Rose Leaves 1 pound. Ground

Cassie Leaves 1 pound, Ground Pimento 1 / 4 pound, Ground Tonquin

Beans 2 ounces. Ground Vanilla Beans 2 ounces. Powdered Orris 3

pounds, Oil Pimento 60 minims. Oil Bergamot 120 minims. Oil FrenchGeranium 60 minims. Oil Ylang-Ylang 120 minims. Otto Rose 20

minims. Extract Musk 1 ounce, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce. Gum Benzoin

(Groun d) 1 ounce. Mix.

4357. Violet Sachet .—Powdered Orr is 3 poun ds. Essence Berga mot 30minims. Essential Oil of Almonds 20 minims. Otto Rose 20 minims.Ext ra ct Mu sk 1 oun ce. Mix.

4358 . P o t P o u r i fo r Ro se J a r s .—Mixtures of Rose Leaves, etc., forfilling Rose Jars are now considerably used. A favorite mixture for thispurpose is as follows : Rose Lea ves (Flowers ) whole, 1 pound , Pa tchouly

Leaves 4 ounces. Violet Flowers 4 ounces. Vanilla, cut fine, 1 / 2 ounce,

Cinnamon, in coarse powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Orris Root, in coarse powder, 4

ounces. Allspice, in coarse powder, 1 / 2 ounce. Cloves, in coarse powder,

1 / 2 ounce, Oil Bergamot 1 / 2 ounce, Musk Extract 1 ounce. Mix the Oil

and Musk Extract thoroughly with the powdered drugs, and then withthe Leaves, etc. By grinding the Leaves, etc., to a coarse powder, this

may be used as a Sachet Powder; other combinations may be made inthe same manner, by using other flowers, etc., in combination, asLavender , Vitivert , etc.






SMELLING SALTS OR P UNGENTS.

The sale of Smelling Salts, or "Pungents," which, for a time was quitelimited, has again revived. The following formulas make satisfactorypreparations:

4359 . Pungen t Smel l ing Sa l t s .—If something fine is desired withoutregard to cost this is recommended: Carbonate of Ammonium, crushedinto a coarse powder, 6 ounces, Sal Ammoniac, granulated, 1 ounce,Pure Potash (Caustic Potash), crushed fine, 2 ounces, Orris Root, incoarse powder, 4 ounces. Lemon Peel, in coarse powder, RosmaryLeaves, in coarse powder, Lavender Flowers, in coarse powder, each, 1

ounce, Cloves, Cinnamon, Calamus, each, in powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of

Bergamot 1 / 2 ounce. Oil of Lemon 2 drachms, Extract of Musk or Civet

1 / 2 ounce. Stronger Water of Ammonia 1 / 2 ounce. Mix them welltogether.

4360. Smell ing Sal ts .— A more common article may be made asfollows: Carbonate of Ammonium, crushed to a coarse powder, 12ounces. Powdered Orris 4 ounces, Powdered Cloves, Powdered Cassia,Powdered Calam us, ea ch, 1 ounce. Str onger Water of Amm onia 1 oun ce,

Oil of Berga mot 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of Laven der 1 / 4 oun ce. Mix th em.

4361. P r es ton 's Sa l t s .—Carbonate of Ammonium, crushed, 4 ounces,

str onger Water of Amm onia 1 / 4 ounce, Oil of Cloves, Oil of Lavender , Oil

of Bergamot, each 10 drops. Mix th em well togeth er.

4362. Smell ing Sal ts .— Extemporaneous.—By crushing Carbonate of Ammonium, and adding to each ounce 30 drops of Stronger Water of Amm onia, a nd 30 drops of Bulk P erfume.

4363. Vinegare t tes .— These a re employed like sm elling bott les an d forsimilar pur poses. Any inert Aromat ic subst an ce, as Or ris or a m ixtu re of

Aromatic powdered drugs, may be saturated with Glacial Acetic Acidwith which one-fourth the quantity of Bulk Perfume is mixed. TheToilet Vinegars mentioned further on, may also be employed for thesam e purpose.






TOILET SOAP S.

Toilet Soaps are seldom made except by experienced soap makers. Thebases of Toilet Soaps are the common hard soaps referred to under thearticle on soaps, Part III. For making the finer grades of Toilet Soaps

these are shaved, "milled" or ground, and mixed as may best be suitedfor the required product, and the perfuming Oils and ingredientswork ed into them . The ma ss is th en slight ly moisten ed if necessa ry a ndma de up int o th e required quan tity for cakes, an d pressed in a dye int oth e sha pe desired by means of a st rong press.

The cheaper Toilet Soaps are made in the same manner as is directedfor making Hard Soaps in the article referred to, but are more or lessperfum ed with essent ial Oils or odorous su bsta nces

An infinite variety of Toilet Soaps are supplied by soap makers, anddru ggists ma y themselves ma ke th em by secur ing the proper appliances.The perfumes for the soaps depend upon the price at which they are tosell, an d m ay be selected from t he form ulas alr eady given for bouqu etsof different kinds, and from the essential Oils suitable for the purpose.Glycerin in small quantities is frequently added to Toilet Soaps, andth ey ar e var iously colored with h ar mless ingredients t o suit t he ta ste orcapr ice of th e ma nu factur er.

As so great a variety of Toilet Soaps are required, and so few make

th em, it would be inexpedient to give form ulas for th em h ere.

TOILE T VINE GARS.

A class of preparations for the toilet called Aromatic Vinegars have alimited sa le. They are chiefly used a fter ba th ing an d washin g th e han dsand face to impart a freshness to the skin, and for their agreeable odor.The following form ulae will suffice

4364. Aromat ic Vinegar .—Glacial Acetic Acid 8 ounces, CologneSpirit 4 ounces. Camphor, in small pieces, 1 ounce, Oil of Cloves 45minims. Oil of Rosmary 30 minims, Oil of Bergamot, Oil of Cinnamon,Oil of Lavender, Oil of Pimento, Oil of Neroli, each, 15 minims. Mix, letsta nd u nt il th e ingredients a re dissolved, an d filter .






4365. Aromat ic Vinegar .— This may also be made by mixing anykind of Bulk Per fum e with th e oth er ingredients inst ead of th e essentialOils, as Glacial Acetic Acid 8 ounces, Cologne Spirit 2 ounces. Camphor1 ounce, Bulk Perfume or Cologne (as desired), 2 ounces. Mix, dissolvean d filter .

To use t hese Vinegar s a sma ll qua nt ity is ad ded to a bowl of Water , andusua lly applied with a soft sponge.

TOILET WATER S.

Toilet Waters as they are known in the market are not as their namewould indicate, Waters, but solution of essential Oils or odorousprinciples in Alcohol or a partly Alcoholic liquid, prepared either by

solution or distillation. These are known as Eau de Cologne, Eau deLavande, Eau de Violette, etc., and have been noticed under Perfumesand other headings. The name is also applied in a general way toperfumed Waters and spirits made by distilling herbs and odoroussubstances, with Water or a diluted Alcoholic liquid; but as these havebeen already noticed under other headings, as Aquas, Spiritus, etc.,fur th er form ulas will be unn ecessar y.

The foregoing formulas comprise most of the Toilet Preparations andPerfumes th at ar e popular or on t he ma rket, an d all th at it is expedient

or desirable for druggists to prepare. If it is intended to engageextensively in the manufacture of perfumes and like articles, manyother formulas would be required, for which the reader is referred tocompr ehen sive work s on per fum ery, soap m ak ing, etc.

fenners complete formulary

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