kanoo world traveller june 2009

6KWT

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE JUNE 2009

SUMMER LOVING

SIGHTSEEING IN PRAGUE + FESTIVALS IN BEIRUT + RESTAURANTS IN DOHA + SHOPPING IN DUBAI

ACTION BREAK

FIVE STAR TREKKING IN THE ANDES

A LUXURY STAY AT DUBAI’S THE PALACE - THE OLD TOWN

WIN

KWT_final cover.indd 1 5/31/2009 6:44:06 PM

Jum_DPS_SummerDays_KanooWT2009.indd 1 5/31/09 3:48:19 PM Jum_DPS_SummerDays_KanooWT2009.indd 2 5/31/09 3:48:22 PMUntitled-1 2 5/31/2009 4:17:18 PM

Jum_DPS_SummerDays_KanooWT2009.indd 1 5/31/09 3:48:19 PM Jum_DPS_SummerDays_KanooWT2009.indd 2 5/31/09 3:48:22 PMUntitled-1 3 5/31/2009 4:17:29 PM

Al Qasba - Kanoo Travel (June 09 issue)Trim: 255mm x 210mmBleed: 261mm x 216mm

Untitled-2 1 5/13/2009 10:13:25 AM

62 SHOP DUBAI Get yourself to the City of Gold in time to catch Dubai Summer Surprises.

64 DINE DOHA How to eat like a king in Qatar, from the W to the Four Seasons.

66 VISIT PRAGUE Unmissable sights and must-visit attractions in this lovely old city.

Produced by: Hot Media Publishing FZ LLCJune 2008 22,485 BPA Consumer Audit

Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-ThatcherEditorial Director: Rob OrchardPublishing Director: John Thatcher Advertisement Director: Chris CapstickSales Manager: Ian FaireyDesigner: Jenni DennisEditorial assistant: Parinaaz Navdar

Advertising enquiries [email protected]+971 4 364 2875Editorial enquiries [email protected]+971 4 364 2876

Cover: PhotolibraryAdditional images from Getty, iStockphoto, New York tourism board and Hong KongTourism Board.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from Hot Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. Hot Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller magazine. ‘Height of Luxury’ feature re-printed with kind permission of Sunday Times Travel.

CONTENTS

5 AGENDA All the latest news, promotions and ideas from the world of luxury travel.

10 DRIVE TIME Jump in the hire car and take a tour of Spain’s most beautiful region.

12 HIP TO BE THERE The eyes of the world turn to Monaco for the start of the Tour de France.

15 KNOW IT ALL Our team of top-flight travel gurus answer all your holiday questions.

20 WEAR IN THE WORLD The key items for your travel wardrobe.

22 ESSENTIAL SELECTION Our guide to the region’s best hotel apartments.

32 PICTURE THIS Four must-book now travel images.

AGENDA

40

JUNE 2009 KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER

40 HEIGHT OF LUXURY It’s time to take a five star trip across the Andes

46 KING KONG How to make the most of a trip to the glitz and buzz of Hong Kong

52 TURKEY ON SEA The country’s five finest beach resorts reviewed.

FEATURES

CONCIERGE

Monte Fitz Roy in the Andes

contents_june.indd 3 6/1/2009 11:47:42 AM

5KWT

6.09 AGENDAWHAT’S IN WHAT’S NEW WHAT’S ON

10 WORLD’S BEST DRIVES 12 HIP TO BE THERE15 KNOW IT ALL20 WEAR IN THE WORLD22 ESSENTIAL SELECTION32 PICTURE THIS

Jumeirah (jumeirah.com) have come up with a winner of a promotion this season: ‘Summer Days’. Here’s the deal: book up suites in their New York property, Essex House, starting from $385, suites in their London properties, Carlton Tower and The Lowndes, starting from only £373 and rooms in their spread of fabulous Dubai properties from only Dhs1,150. Sounds good, huh? But you’ve not heard the best bit. Included in the prices are a free accommodation and meals for your kids, free internet, free movies, free buffet breakfast, free room credit and – if you’re staying in Dubai, free entrance to Wild Wadi. Brilliant value – particularly if you’re holidaying en famille.

HAPPYDAYS

KWT_Agenda_june.indd 5 6/3/2009 8:10:53 PM

6 KWT

PALM PROMOTIONWe’re excited about the brilliant package that Atlantis Palm Jumeirah in Dubai (atlantisthepalm.com) have brought out this month. For just Dhs800 ($218) you get a room at this beautiful resorts plus a host of lovely extras. There’s limitless free entry to the Aquaventure waterpark (don’t miss the scream-your-head-off ‘Leap of Faith’, a 27.5 metre vertical drop slide). Then there’s limitless free entry to the Lost Chambers, an amazing underwater eco-system that’s home to tens of thousands of exotic marine animals. If you’ve got kids with you they’ll get a day’s entry to the brilliant Kids Club which features an indoor climbing wall – and if you’re visiting with teenagers they can hang out for free at Club Rush, a teens-only spot equipped with its own cinema and dancefloor. Not only that but you’ll also get a free massage when you book a massage at the beautifully-appointed spa. Top deal!The Atlantis promotion runs from June 1 to September 18.

TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

130 The depth in feet that the newly-opened Baiheliang Museum in China, the globe’s first underwater museum, lies beneath the Yangtze River.

Travellers to Jeddah have a fantastic new option as of this month as the Park Jyatt Jeddah – Marina Club and Spa (jeddah.park.hyatt.com) opens its doors. It’s set on the Corniche, with views of the Red Sea and King Fahd fountain, and has been designed with a mix of Andalusia and Arabian architecture. Evenings will be spent enjoying lazy dinners at Mediterranean restaurant Nafoura, where mezze and delicacies from the charcoal grill are the order of the day: tobacco-heads will follow up with a stogie at the Cigar Room. Four more restaurants will be opening soon, alongside a huge spa and wellness centre with the first hydroptherapty centre in the region and a marina with space for 140 yachts.

NEW LAUNCHPARK LIFE

TOP DEAL

June sees the launch of new low cost carrier Fly Dubai. Based out of Dubai, it is launching flights to Beirut, Amman, Damascus and Alexandria this month, with the aim of swiftly rolling out across the Middle East, India, Eastern Europe and North Africa. All the frills have been cut out – it’s a ticketless airline which charges you for optional extras like additional baggage

and larger legroom. Special offers at time of press included Dubai to Beirut for Dhs250

($68). Achrafieh, here we come…

FRILL-FREE FLIGHTS

POCKET FILM FESTIVAL EVENT HORIZONIf you’re in Paris between June 11 and 14 this

summer, don’t miss a visit to the fantastic Pocket Film Festival at the Pompidou Centre. The organisers will be screening a selection of the finest flicks shot on mobile phones, from five minute farces to ten second tragedies. Check out some of the contenders at festivalpocketfilms.fr – you can also download them to your own phone to get you in the mood…


7KWT

AGENDA NEWS

TANKS FOR THE MEMORIESAre you a scuba aficionado in need of some inspiration for your next diving holiday? Look no further than these beauties…

THE CARIBBEAN DIVEA lot of dive sites in the Caribbean have been spoiled, but you can still have an amazing experience at Little Cayman, where you’ll find Jackson’s Point, home to a two kilometre cliff of coral.

THE RARE SIGHTINGS DIVEOff Sipadan Island in Borneo you’ll spot rare creatures like sea wasps and mandarin fish, alongside turtles and barracudas.

THE CLASSIC DIVEYou’re not a proper scuba diver until you’ve ticked the Barrier Reef in Australia off your list – the amazingly clear waters and stunning sealife will blow your mind.

THE WRECKS DIVEGet beneath the waves at Palau in Micronesia in wintertime where you’ll see tons of wrecks from World War II alongside sharks and turtles.

THE PRISTINE DIVESaudi Arabia’s Red Sea shoreline offers some of the most untouched, least exploited waters in the world: just off the coast of Jeddah lie particularly lovely coral reefs.

THE CAVERNS DIVEMake your way to the Philippines and Coron Island in the Spring, where you’ll find brilliant deep sea caves to explore.


8 KWT

TO STAY AT THE BALMORAL, EDINBURGH THIS SUMMER

FIVE GOOD REASONS…

Hats off to the Peninsula Hong Kong for upping the stakes on unusual weddings. Some hotels offer beach weddings, some offer themed weddings - White Sands Tours in Mauritius even offers underwater weddings in a submarine. But the Peninsula’s new ‘Love is in the Air’ package is a step beyond, featuring as it does a wedding in a helicopter, complete with flowers and photography. After you’ve been married at several thousand feet you can relax with a dinner and a night’s stay.

GETTING THE CHOPPER

It’s in Edinburgh, one of the world’s loveliest cities,

with first class views over Edinburgh Castle.

It’s got a one-star Michelin restaurant.

It’s got a five star kids’ program, with bags

of activities to keep them entertained.

It’s just down the road from Edinburgh Zoo and

Harvey Nichols.

Middle East residents are being offered a ‘stay for 3 nights and

only pay for 2’ deal this summer.

1

23

4

5


9KWT

900 Hotels Worldwide

“leave the rest to us” in Ajman

A J M A N

“Ramada Residence wants you to drift off in our comfy beds, unwind in our pool, eat great meals enjoy our warm welcome – again and again.

Competitive prices: 1-3 months 4-6 months one yearJunior Suite AED 7,000 p/m AED 6,000 p/m AED 60,000Executive Suite AED 8,000 p/m AED 7,000 p/m AED 70,000

For more information, best rates or reservations please visit:www.ramadaajman.comor email: [email protected],[email protected] call: +971 6 7404666or our toll free number: 8001234

Amazing facilities:Fully furnished & equipped Apartments, Free Internet, Free sheltered parking, 30% off on F&B & Laundry ServicesAccess to Shapes Health Club & Spa, Free transportation to the Beach, Housekeeping service, Security service around the clock, Room service, International Buffet & variety of pastries and bakeries at the Coffee shop. Authentic Middle Eastern atmosphere at Ya Zaman Tent daily from 12 noon to 4 pm and from 6 pm onwards, “Close proximity to the Emirates Road. 30 min. drive to Dubai Airport. 15 min. drive to Sharjah Airport”

AGENDA NEWS

We’re a big fan of this new opening in Croatia, the Lesic Dimitri (lesic-dimitri.com), set in the lovely town of Korcula, half way down the Croatian coast. It’s an 18th-century building equipped with only six rooms – proper boutique style – and a tiny spa. It’s been converted over four years by a family from the town and has lots of original features alongside modern amenities, including the now-essential iPod dock.

CROATIANCORKER

GETTING THE CHOPPER

BUY THE BOOKTravel stories don’t come much more inspirational than ‘Just a Little Run

Around the World’ by Rosie Swale-Pope. Sub-titled ‘5 Years, 3 Packs of Wolves and 53 Pairs of Shoes’, it describes Swale-Pope’s extraordinary journey across the globe on foot. Funded only by the income from renting her small home in Wales, she ran across Europe, Asia, North America and Greenland before returning home, along the way meeting incredible people and receiving no fewer than 29 marriage proposals. The sort of book that makes you quit your job, pack a bag and head out into the big wide world…


7KWT

DRIVETIME RIOJA AND ASTURIAS, SPAIN

FOUR DAYS

DURATION:

AGENDA DRIVE TIME

Start off driving along the rugged Atlantic coast and head up to the Cantabrian mountains in the Asturias – not for the weak hearted but they do offer spectacular views of the region. The warm and humid climate in the region makes it difficult to drive with the top down so crank up the air-conditioning as you wind your way through the countryside. Llanes, a fishing village west of Bilbao has unexplored coves that are ideal for a little stop. Continue upward for the next two days to the Picos de Europa peaks, and the majestic Enol and Ercina before you reach the plains of Rioja. In the vast Ebro Valley, the rolling fields stretch as far as the eye can see while villages blend in with land. Moving south, the landscape gives way to wheat, with paths dotted with travellers making their way to Santiago de Compostella, leading you to the walled village of Laguardia.

KWT_Drivetime_june.indd 10 6/1/2009 12:47:55 PM

Nuran Serviced ResidencesMake yourself at homeNuran Serviced Residences are designed to meet the needs of business executives in the process of relocating, on a work assignment or for leisure travelers seeking residential accommodations. Our Residences o�er both the ambience and privacy of apartment living and the convenience of hotel-like services and amenities. Featuring complimentary broadband internet access, the latest apartment furnishings, �tness centers, housekeeping and around the clock service.

Nuran Serviced Residences are found in the most sought-after locations in Dubai, with two key locations: Nuran Marina in the Dubai Marina and Nuran Greens, as the name indicates, in The Greens.

Further developments of Nuran Serviced Residences include Egypt, Syria, Morocco, KSA and UAE (Downtown Dubai)

www.nuran.com

Please call 800 NURAN (68726) or +971 4 423 8877 Fax: +9714 4238866 Email: [email protected] GDS code XL

Untitled-2 1 5/31/2009 10:16:09 AM

AGENDA HIP TO BE THERE

TOUR DE FRANCEBicycle enthusiasts will be flocking to France this July to watch as 20 of the world’s best cycling teams set out on a 22 day race around the French countryside. Running from the July 4 to 15, the 96th Tour de France will cover a total distance of 3,500 kilometres from Monaco to Paris.

Along the way the riders and television viewers get to experience the different cultures and lifestyles of the cities they tour. The race will kick off in Monaco in the Southern Alps for the very first time, offering a difficult landscape for the racers with rugged mountain passes including inclines as steep as 10 percent. The teams will start the first stage at the Formula 1 Grand Prix starting line, continuing around the country, with a brief loop through Spain, and on to the last stages along the scenic route de la Piscine.

This is the first time the tour will pass through Gerona, in Spain, before heading to Barcelona, on their way to the Champs Elysees in Paris which has been the traditional finish line for the race since 1975.

On July 2, don’t miss the Tour de France publicity caravan, a 20 km long parade with France’s major brands handing out freebies to the roadside spectators. The parade has proved more popular than the race itself for some, with people of all ages thronging the streets to marvel at the different floats during the 45 minute procession.

Following the parade is the official representation of the teams, which gives the press and public a chance to meet with their favourite racers including Lance Armstrong and Alberto Contador, while they get an opportunity to relax before the racing begins.

On July 4 head down to the F1 Grand Prix circuit to watch as each rider races against the clock in an individual time trial to win the yellow jersey;

and on the July 5, cheer on your favourite teams as they they set off on stage 2 of the race of the year, or simply enjoy the summer sun and atmosphere of the Grand Depart.You’d be better off using public transport until the teams leave the city, and Monaco has stepped up its public transport facilities to make it easier to get access to all the major race sites, including water shuttles and increased train frequencies.

For a luxurious long weekend, and a chance to mix with the rich and famous while watching one of the world’s most famous races, Monaco is the place to be this summer.

STAY AT...The Hotel de Paris (00 337 9806 3000/ en.hoteldeparis.com) in Monte Carlo, is the place to stay. Located in the centre of all the action, the hotel gives you the chance to watch and join people living it up in Monaco, and enjoy spectacular sunsets over the sea. Head to the Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo spa, voted one of Europe’s most beautiful spas, for a bit of pampering and relaxation after a long day.

EAT AT... Monaco boasts a host of Michelin starred restaurants for you to pick from. Le Louis XV (00 337 9806 8864) with three stars offers the full range of ‘Riviera’ cuisine. Start off with lobster with black morel mushrooms, followed by Mediterranean seabass with artichoke, cuttlefish and marjoram. Polish off the meal with the local ‘fraises des bois’ in their natural juice and mascarpone sorbet.

SHOP AT...Monaco is the international capital when it comes to luxury. The famous Golden Circle which stands in the heart of town, is home to elegant boutique for prestigious labels like Hermes, Christian Dior and Chanel. Along the streets of the Old Town sellers display souvenirs, while shopping malls at the Metropole offer ready-to-wear outfits, home decor items, and gifts.

“ This summer’s tour is a chance to mix with the rich and famous while watching one of the world’s most famous races ”

HIP TO BE THERE

THE RACE KICKS OFF IN MONACO FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME...

DON’T MISS THIS

KWT_Hip to be there_june.indd 12 6/2/2009 3:21:36 PM

For reservations log on to www.ihg.com/7for5

UAE 800 4642 | Bahrain 800 00 880 | Egypt 0800 44 333 22 | Jordan 0800 22 666

Kuwait 2473 2100 Ext.6233 | Lebanon (01) 426 801 (Ask For 866 866 7556)

Oman 800 77 999 | Qatar 0800 971 234 | Saudi Arabia 800 8 971 465 | South Africa 800 999 136

Offer valid from 15th May - 1st September 2009. Terms & Conditions apply.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Kanoo World traveller 255x210.ai 5/21/09 2:50:30 PM

Untitled-2 1 5/21/2009 5:04:27 PM

I just want to get away from it all - please can you recommend the best places to go for

complete peace and quiet?

JAMES LOHAN: Privacy is the ultimate luxury and an exclusive island is one of the best ways to really tune out. Spread over 26 silk-sanded coral atolls lost in the heart of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives are the textbook desert-island paradise. These far-flung palm-tree hideaways tick all the tropical-island boxes, offering balmy adults-only seclusion above water, and a spectacular undersea landscape below. Shoals of scuba-lovers come to explore the life aquatic, while loved-up couples and jet-set veterans come for the exclusive resorts. Connected only by speedboat and sea-plane, the Maldives - all 1,192 of them - were made for romantic sun-soaking, beach-based star-gazing, and turquoise-ocean toe-dipping. Cocoa Island is famed for its understated, beach-chic elegance. Resembling a collection of Keralan boathouses, the individual over-water villas have soothing white-on-white interiors and teak flooring to create an ambience of laid-back romance.

I’m going on a shopping tour of New York – what should my priorities be?

CORRADO BOGNI: First on your list is Bergdoff Goodmans Fifth Avenue. The stately 1928 building features eight floors of pure designer bliss, including spacious in-store boutiques from couture stars like Narciso Rodriquez, Chloe, and Jean Paul Gaultier on floors two through four- all furnished with swank, well-appointed dressing rooms complete with Central Park views. Then there’s Barneys New York Madison Avenue. The uptown location on Madison Avenue attracts shoppers from the nearby Madison Avenue boutiques more than the crazed downtown department stores - which can be a relief if you’re looking to avoid the crowds.In addition, you shouldn’t miss Bloomingdales SoHo Location. The sleek SoHo mini-me version of the original Bloomingdale’s found a home in the former Canal Jeans building, and the space was mightily transformed for the downtown set. And you have to go to Saks Fifth Avenue - which occupies an entire city block directly across from Rockefeller Center.

INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTSCORRADO BOGNICorrado is the head

concierge of the flagship InterContinental London Park Lane. He and his network of fellow concierges round the globe can answer dining questions on any city under the sun.

GLOBAL SHOPPINGLOUISA COXLouisa is the founder of

Shopping Mistress (www.shoppingmistress.com), a unique shopping service aimed at those with the money but not the time to hit the stores. She has expert knowledge of what to buy and where to buy it.

BOUTIQUE HOTELSJAMES LOHAN James is one half of Mr and

Mrs Smith, the duo who launched the hugely popular guidebook series of the same name (www.mrandmrssmith.com). He devotes his time to discovering the world’s most exciting boutique hotels.

ART AND CULTUREANTONIA CARVERThe Editor of

Bidoun (www.bidoun.com), the Middle East’s biggest and best art and culture magazine. She is also a correspondent for the Art Newspaper and Screen International.

ADVENTURE AND ECO TRAVEL TIM WOODS Tim is the

founder of Car Free Walks (www.carfreewalks.org), leads conservation holidays for the BTCV (www.btcv.org/international) and is an editor for id21, communicating the latest research on ecotourism and responsible travel in Africa and Asia.

AGENDA KNOW IT ALL

ASK THE EXPERTSOUR TEAM OF TRAVEL GENIUSES HELP PLAN YOUR PERFECT BREAK... GOT A QUESTION? CONTACT THEM AT [email protected]

KNOW IT ALL

THE PANEL

Q. Q.

KWT_know it all_june.indd 15 6/1/2009 11:58:49 AM

PURE SHOPPING

DESTINATION BURJUMAN

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

BurJuman has won its luxury laurels by bringing together all that it takes to woo true connoisseurs of fashion and style. Cherith Nicholl makes a visit to find out how this luxurious mall stands apart from the rest.

‘Ultimate indulgence’ is the phrase that best describes the shopping experience at BurJuman. Known as the residence of high fashion, this luxurious mall, with an incredible 340 outlets, prides itself on being the favoured destination for serious shoppers from across the world. Its elegant surroundings are home to the most elite names in fashion. Indeed, here’s where the likes of Chanel, Dior, Fendi, Prada, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Saks Fifth Avenue comfortably rub shoulders with each other and renowned high street brands

BURJUMAN STANDS A NOTCH ABOVE ADDRESSES SUCH AS BOND STREET, FIFTH AVENUE AND RODEO DRIVE

such as Massimo Dutti, Zara and Mango, presenting to the discerning shopper the latest trends of the season. BurJuman boasts the world’s highest concentration of luxury brands under one roof. And it’s true. When compared to iconic international shopping addresses such as London’s Bond Street, New York’s Fifth Avenue and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, BurJuman stands a notch above. No other retail destination can quite compare to the sheer mix of stores that are there right before your eyes in this unique mall. On my visit there, I was completely spoilt for choice. Being a self confessed shopaholic, I did what I do best. I gave in to temptation! One would truly need an iron will to resist the stunning silk scarves at Hermès, the gorgeous flowing dresses at Valentino and the It Bags and beautiful sunglasses at Versace.

I spent a lovely hour browsing the bright, bohemian designs at Etro and the flamboyant styles at Christian Lacroix. After taking a relaxing break on one of the mall’s beautiful leather sofas, which can be found around the mall, I had a dreamy browse through Moschino, Emanuel Ungaro and the exquisite shoes at Salvatore Ferragamo. This really is a destination designed for the true fashion maven..

BURJUMAN final.indd 16 6/2/2009 9:16:55 PM


I saved one of the biggest treats at BurJuman for the end. The world- renowned department store Saks Fifth Avenue has chosen BurJuman as its home in Dubai and it’s the sort of place real label-lovers adore. Saks Fifth Avenue is spread over two floors and offers some of the most exclusive names in fashion including Manolo Blahnik for shoe lovers, Gwen Stefani’s brand L.A.M.B. for the younger fashionista and Paspaley for stunning jewellery including heavenly pearls. I enjoyed checking out the sleek accessories at Dolce & Gabbana, and trying on clothes from their animal print and nautical-influenced new lines. At Tiffany I went misty-eyed at the dazzling displays of diamonds, and tried on one of their traditional identity bracelets before taking a stroll around Alberta Ferretti and the laidback daywear creations of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Saks also has a large beauty hall filled with top end brands: I took a tour and my senses were assailed by myriad alluring products. I tried out perfumes by Chanel and Dior, miracle creams from

Crème de la Mer, and a raft of luxurious hair products from Frédéric Fekkai. Not only do they have international designer perfumes and products, but they also offer local brands: the charming assistants gave me a guided tour through the best options. When it comes to service, Saks go the extra mile

to make your experience perfect. They offer a personalised shopping service, the Fifth Avenue Club, whose expert personal shoppers handpick for you the best the store has to offer. In a first for Dubai, this year Saks also introduced their Bridal Boutique which provides brides-to-be with shoes, accessories, jewellery and gowns created by world-renowned designers including Vera Wang, Reem Acra and Maria Elena.

Having shopped all over the world, being at BurJuman was an absolute revelation for me. It was, in the real sense, a shopping experience that showed me what I had been missing all along. I will be back, for sure!

SAKS AND THE CITY

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE IS SPREAD OVER TWO FLOORS AND OFFERS SOME OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE NAMES IN FASHION

KEY PIECE FOR THE SUITCASEIt’s a really tough choice, but if there were just one thing I could buy from BurJuman this season I think it would have to be this utterly gorgeous blue C. Steffe Grapson dress, from Saks Fifth Avenue. It’s a real fashion must-have, perfect for elegant nights out this summer.

5


When I took my well earned mid-shopping lunch break, there was plenty to whet the appetite. BurJuman is home to over 40 different restaurants and cafes, most of which can be found in the family-friendly food court and the sunlit and airy Pavilion Gardens, a beautiful dining retreat on the mall’s top floor. With options ranging from coffee shops to high end eateries and smoothie bars, serving international cuisine, you will never be short of a place to relax and grab a bite to eat.

If you prefer something a little bit more formal, BurJuman offers much-loved restaurants such as The Noodle House, Bella Donna and Japengo, all located at the Pavillion Gardens. The architecture is stunning and unlike anything I have seen elsewhere. Beautiful wood panelling, lush greenery and soft water fountains create a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere. Outdoor seating is also available in some restaurants in the area including the Zone Lounge, Orchestra Café and Jimmy’s Killer Prawns. And for those short on time, they can eat and run at Yo Sushi, any of the fast food joints in the food court and even the hugely popular Chili’s Too and Johnny Carino’s. Once you’re satiated, you can head back to the stores or, if you fancy a bit more indulgence, make your way to the Dragonfly Spa. Its part of one of the largest

spa brands in the world and offers fabulous Chinese massage therapies. After trying it out I can highly recommend the Top to Toe two-hour, two-therapist massage

session which left me feeling completely refreshed. Alternatively, enjoy a treatment with friends – excellent group sessions are available – as the perfect end to your day.

Clockwise from above: Cafe Havana, and the water-ringed Pavilion Gardens


BURJUMAN OFFERS MUCH-LOVED RESTAURANTS SUCH AS THE NOODLE HOUSE, BELLA DONNA AND JAPENGO

TIME TO UNWIND...


Untitled-3 1 6/1/2009 5:36:53 PM

20 KWT

STYLISH TRAVELLER

WEAR IN THE WORLDKWT’S INHOUSE FASHION EXPERT POINTS YOU IN THE DIRECTION OF THE SMARTEST

THREADS AND ACCESSORIES TO TRAVEL WITH THIS MONTH

FOR HER

FOR HIM

BAG: TOD’S

EARRINGS: LANVIN

HAT: ORLA KIELY

DRESS: C.STEFFE GRAPSON

BAG: LACOSTE

SHOE: DUNE

JEANS: MANGO

PURSE: MARC JACOBS

HOODIE: LACOSTE

SHOES: DIESEL

BAG: PAUL SMITH

SHORTS: MANGO

SCARF: MANGO

BELT: DIOR

SUNGLASSES: DIESEL

wear in the world_JUNE.indd 20 5/31/2009 6:46:21 PM

Untitled-2 1 5/13/2009 10:16:30 AM

22 KWT

ESSENTIAL SELECTION

The last few years have seen hundreds of hotel apartments spring up across the region: Jola Chudy gives her pick of the top spots to stay, and what they offer for both work and play...

THE GULF’S BEST HOTEL APARTMENTS

KWT_ESSENTIAL selection_june.indd 22 6/3/2009 8:14:12 PM

AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION

23KWT

WORK: Dubai’s Nuran apartment complexes at The Greens and Dubai Marina are ideally located. Why? Because not only are they right in the heart of Dubai, but both areas are also picturesque and tranquil, something which is often lacking in the under-construction city, meaning that you can get on with your work inspired and undisturbed. Complimentary high speed internet comes as standard in both properties so you can hit the ground running.PLAY: If you fancy a spot of retail therapy, then Nuran at the Greens has easy access to both Mall of the Emirates and Ibn Battuta Mall. This leafy enclave also has a lake, a clutch of great restaurants and some lovely casual cafes. Over at the Nuran at Dubai Marina, the nearby Marina Walk is one of Dubai’s most pedestrian-friendly outdoor areas, with cafes, shops and restaurants looking over the water. Both locations have top pools and health facilities. www.nuran.com

NURAN, DUBAI


24 KWT

WORK: Directly opposite the Dubai International Financial Centre, on Sheikh Zayed Road, the Chelsea Tower stands out from other buildings with its fabulous futuristic design. At 49 storeys in height, it also offers great views of the Arabian Gulf and Jumeirah beaches on one side and the glinting skyscrapers of Dubai on the other. The excellent location and business centre make it a top choice, PLAY: The Chelsea Tower also caters for your down-time, offering a luxurious panoramic outdoor pool, a power plate-equipped gym, a steam room and sauna and the Garden Restaurant. It’s also great for shopping, with Dubai Mall just a 10-minute drive away. www.chelseatowerdubai.com

CHELSEA TOWER, DUBAI

WORK: Located on the Sheik Zayed Road, the handy location of the Coral Boutique is perfect for business meetings, offering easy access to the rest of the city. And you won’t have to go far if you’re hungry and need a break from work while staying here. Choose from the casual atmosphere of the Butterfly Cafe or the Rumours Restaurant with its tasteful art deco-style decor. Your mid-work snack can take the form of Asian, Oriental, Mediterranean or Tex-Mex food. PLAY: Mall of the Emirates is a short walk away, while Jumeirah’s beaches are just a few minutes by taxi. A free shuttle service will deposit you at the Madinat Jumeirah resort or the Dubai Marina where you can while away a pleasant evening in one of the dozens of restaurants.www.coral-international.com

CORAL BOUTIQUE HOTEL APARTMENTS , DUBAI



25KWT

WORK: The Marriott Executive Apartments are the pick of the crop in Manama. Choose from one, two and three bedroom apartments, all offering brilliant views over the thrusting skyline and all equipped with special office areas. They also have kitchens and a grocery service – so you can fix yourself a snack while working without having to disturb your day. If you’re dashing out for a meeting you can get a ‘Grab-N-Go’ breakfast from the Skyw@lk Café on the ground floor. PLAY: When you’re ready to relax, put your feed up on your private balcony and drink in the views or head out to the nearby Jazeera Mall to peruse the stores.www.meabahrain.com

MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS, BAHRAIN


26 KWT

WORK: Located in Abu Dhabi’s Mohammed Bin Zayed area, just 15 minutes from Abu Dhabi Airport, the newly opened L’Arabia apartments offer business travellers to the capital good value, high quality accommodation.PLAY: More chilled out than Dubai, with an elegant personality all its own. Abu Dhabi has myriad sights, and L’Arabia is the perfect base for visiting them. Make sure not to miss out on a trip to the nearby Emirates Palace which, with its majestic granite facade and opulent gilt and marble interior decor, is the new icon of the city.

L’ARABIA, ABU DHABI

26

WORK: Set in the heart of the Diplomatic Area and on the end of the lovely Corniche, the Somserset West Bay is within easy reach of all the city’s key business areas - perfect if you need to zip around town in a hurry. It’s also particularly welcoming if you’re in Doha for an extended business trip. Those travelling with families in tow will appreciate the home comforts on offer including smart kitchens. home entertainment systems and in-house baby-sitting service and meal delivery to your room. PLAY: At the Somerset West Bay you’re perfectly placed for some of the city’s best attractions - mere minutes from the City Centre Mall, the excellent Doha Golf Club, Aladdin’s Kingdom, the Cultural Village, the Souq Waqif and, most excitingly of all, the imposing and inspiring Museum of Islamic Art. If you fancy a game of tennis or squash, you’re right round the corner from the Khalifa Tennis & Squash Complex.www.somerset.com

SOMERSET WEST BAY, DOHA

WORK: Get yourself a one, two or three bedroom luxury apartment at the Flora Park and you can make use of their meeting and conference rooms to make presentations to your clients. The ‘Jade’ room is your best bet for smaller gatherings and comes equipped with top audio visual equipment and high speed WiFi.PLAY: When it comes to downtime, you can take a stroll along Dubai Creek, or chill out in the temperature controlled outdoor pool, before hitting the health club or the lovely Serenity Spa. You’ll also be able to take the free shuttle service to the beach and Deira City Centre Mall.www.florahospitality.com

MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS, DUBAIWORK: When it comes to business travel the Marriott is always a reliable choice. There are two sets of Executive Apartments in Dubai - one by the Creek, and one at the Green Community. The Dubai Creek property offers five star service in beautifully furnished apartments. We particularly like the homely but elegant furnishings in these rooms which are warm and welcoming, sporting amber, cream and yellow hues, and off-set with mahogany wood fittings. Meanwhile, the Green Community apartments are great if you’re doing business at Jebel Ali, and have lovely work areas with views out over a lake - they also have six meeting rooms and business services on tap.PLAY: If you stay at the Creek property you’ve got the Dubai Creek Yacht and Golf Club are just five minutes drive away, along with Deira City Centre which offers some of the best shopping in the city. You’re also right near the JW Marriott Dubai where you get a special guest discount in their excellent restaurants - don’t miss the excellent JW Steakhouse. Over at the Green Community you can relax after business with dinner at Tuscan star Cucina, or swimming in the outdoor pool. www.marriott.com

FLORA PARK HOTEL APARTMENTS, DUBAI



27KWT

WORK: These chic four-star apartments offer a good set of facilities for business including a conference centre, high speed internet access and a valet service. They also offer thoughtful touches - such as free newspapers each morning - which help make this property an attractive option for businesspeople visiting Dubai. Combined with its central location it has an edge over the competition. PLAY: The Golden Tulip is perfect for families too, with an in-house baby-sitting service, a well-equipped fitness centre and a luxurious pool on site. If you fancy shopping then the Mall of the Emirates is just a hop, skip and a jump away. www.goldentulip.com

GOLDEN TULIP, DUBAI


28 KWT

WORK: The apartments at the Place Hotel on Sheik Zayed road are a cut above the rest and offer a true 5-star experience. It’s the subtle details like the chic design of the rooms, the comfy quality of the ample beds and the array of handy facilities on offer that make it stand out. For those doing business, not only is the central location perfect, but it has high speed internet and access to faxes and printers. PLAY: We recommend relaxing in the top-notch spa and steam room and enjoying a Turkish bath, before hitting any of the happening hot-spots on Sheik Zayed road. www.the-place-dubai.com

THE PLACE, DUBAI

THE HARBOUR, DUBAIWORK: For high-profile deal-making, you’d be hard-pressed to beat the luxurious Harbour, with its proximity to Dubai Media and Internet Cities. But that’s only the start. A swish executive boardroom, six-person meeting room and one of the slickest business centres we’ve had the pleasure to use (teleconference, anyone?) makes this an enticing option for the five-star business traveller.PLAY: The Harbour has a lovely ‘Timeless Spa’ where you can relax after work - don’t miss out on their signature Frankincense facial. It also boasts some superlative restaurants, including a Mediterranean-style brasserie, az.u.r and, up on the 52nd floor, the Observatory, which more than lives up to its name, offering jaw-dropping views over the marina. Try the Welsh rack of lamb or Scottish scallops and enjoy the sultry black, Manhattan-style interior and Dubai’s twinkling nightscape. www.emirateshotelsresorts.com


Untitled-1 1 5/31/2009 9:19:51 AM

30 KWT

WORK: Opening this month in Mall of the Emirates, Dubai, Suitehotel offers a range of smart services. Suites can be transformed into an office space using a sliding partition, while the hotel’s innovative Suite Box system offers free and unlimited access to the web and a phone line. You can even roll your desk closer to the window if you’re feeling cut off from the outside world. PLAY: It’s all in the detail: you will be treated to a welcome platter of food and drinks in your room on arrival, the mini-fridge holds ready-made meals and you can have an on-site massage should you so wish. What’s more, with Mall of the Emirates right on your doorstep and the Burj Al Arab and the picturesque Madinat nearby, Suitehotel is perfect for those wishing to sample the upmarket delights of the city. Plus, if you’re on holiday and forget your camera, the hotel will lend you one of theirs. Now where else would you get service like that? www.suitehotel.com

SUITEHOTELFOUR POINTS BY SHERATON

WORK: Hold court in one of the five fully kitted-out meeting rooms at the Four Points or catch up on emails in its up-to-date business centre. Located on Dubai’s non-stop Sheikh Zayed Road, the hotel’s location offers easy access to the rest of the city.PLAY: The Dubai Mall is just across the road, with its shops and mega-fountains that shoot jets of water into the air in time to music and lights, and the mesmerizing giant Aquariumwww.starwoodhotels.com


IT’S THE MARRIOTT WAYSM

Untitled-1 1 5/21/2009 12:11:18 PM

6KWT

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE,SAN FRANCISCO

KWT_PictureThis_June.indd 2 6/1/2009 10:04:31 AM

6 KWT

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE,SAN FRANCISCO

The Golden Gate Bridge is often called one of the most beautiful bridges in the world, and its not hard to see why, with its great span and colossal towers.

The bridge gets particularly busy during the summer months when residents of the densely-populated San Francisco Bay Area drive out to Marin County.

San Francisco has left the monuments and culture to other cities in the states, while tourists flock to the city for the infamous steep,

winding streets and the popular Bay Area.

PICTURE THIS

IMAG

E: P

HO

TOLI

BR

ARY


6KWT

FIORDLAND, NEW ZEALAND.


6 KWT

FIORDLAND, NEW ZEALAND.

Fiordland is the South Island’s most untouched area, and is as such formidable and remote for the most part. The region’s biggest

draws are stunning Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, with visitors from nearby Queenstown piling onto boats for breathtaking cruises through Te Anau, complete with seals dolphins and a more

than likely chance of rain. For an adrenaline-charged experience and quicker pace, drive into neighbouring Queenstown for some

skydiving, bungy jumping and high speed jet boating.

PICTURE THIS

IMAG

E: IS

TOC

K


6KWT

RIOMAGGIORE,CINQUE TERRERiomaggiore is the very last of five villages as you approach Cinque Terre from the north. The village is one of the most beautiful in Italy, with bright little houses precariously balanced on hills overlooking the Gulf of Genova. Prepare to walk up steps and keep count when you visit, because most hotels will tell you the number of steps you have to climb when you make a reservation, and if they don’t, make sure you ask because the number can sometimes climb into the hundreds.

PICTURE THIS


6 KWT

RIOMAGGIORE,CINQUE TERRE

IMAG

E: IS

TOC

K


6KWT

CENTRAL PARK,NEW YORK


6 KWT

CENTRAL PARK,NEW YORK

This huge public park in the heart of New York City is one of the city’s most recognised sites and plays host to approximately 25 million visitors each year. Take a carriage ride through the park on a warm night or drop in for one of the many free open air theatre

productions presented by the Public Theatre every summer. Heaps of concerts take place at the park, and after a night of dancing away to your favourite tunes there are

pedicabs on hand to drive you to park exits.

PICTURE THIS

IMAG

E: N

YC T

OU

RIS

M B

OAR

D


22 KWT40 KWT

Don’t fancy boil-in-the-bag food, sleeping bags and altitude sickness? Then trek the Andes the decadently easy way, says Ian Belcher

KWT_andes.indd 40 6/1/2009 11:25:58 AM

41KWT

THE ANDES

Ray Mears would be disgusted, Sir Ranulph Fiennes apoplectic. Bear Grylls would choke on his tree-bark soup. I’m camping at 3,500m in the Argentinean Andes, where my tent is a yellow pinprick in a desperately remote valley. The mercury’s nudging 1°C, but I’m so cosy it actually feels decadent. I have a pure silk lining in my sleeping bag, an alpaca hair blanket finer than cashmere and – hairy-chested types look away now – gourmet chocolates on my crisply-laundered pillow.

Forget boil-in-the-bag – I’ve just enjoyed a memorable snack of home-baked bread and freshly-brewed espresso. Next to my tent, a small shelter for lonely goat herders has been remade as a sexy boutique bathroom with a glass-sided power shower, artfully textured stone walls and slate floors worthy of a Chelsea mews conversion. Sir Edmund Hillary forgive me, for there is moisturiser.

It’s a welcome fusion of the savagely wild and sensationally comfortable. You’ll have taken an epic journey – ‘Crossing

the Andes’ conjures images of frost-licked mountaineers or cannibalistic air-crash survivors – and swaddled it in simple, stylish luxury. I might be taking an ancient, barely-used trading route from Northern Chile’s Atacama Desert past 6,500m peaks into Argentina’s remote Salta Province, but a good, crisp orange juice is never far away. Gourmet coffee and cold drinks are key ingredients in the week-long trip – chasers to the daily three-hour hikes or cycle into

KWT_andes.indd 41 6/1/2009 11:26:06 AM

22 KWT42 KWT

the great dusty outdoors. It’s the ideal trip for those who like their adventure delivered with polish rather than rough edges: participants spend just 24 hours driving and walking across the highest, boniest part of the Andes’ spine; the other six days involve preparation, or decompression, at lower levels.

Our five-strong, mainly British group happily settles in for a three-day shot of acclimatisation in the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama. Naturally, it isn’t too arduous. Hotel de Larache is a lovely low-level ranch with open fires and squashy sofas alongside bleached wood and tasteful local weaves. Panoramic windows reveal a widescreen horizon of 22 volcanoes, spiking up either side of the perfect cone of Licancábur, the iconic peak whose crater embraces the world’s highest lagoon.

But the real showstopper’s just outside: a necklace of four rectangular swimming pools tucked behind shady chañar trees. Each has seductively clear water and a square Modernist arch over a white-cube sauna. On the first morning I tackle the lot.

It would be a remarkable stretch of H2O anywhere, but here it’s little short of a miracle. The Atacama, sandwiched between a protective barrier of coastal mountains and the Andes, is the thirstiest desert on the planet – 50 times more arid than California’s Death Valley. In parts, just west of the nearby Domeyko Range, rainfall has never been recorded, and rivers haven’t seen a drop of moisture for 120,000 years.

And it’s not just dry, it’s high. The first few days are spent gradually preparing our bodies for the Andes’ anorexically thin air. Starting at around 2,500m, we set off on our

Landscapes in Altiplano and Atacama

KWT_andes.indd 42 6/1/2009 11:26:10 AM

43KWT

hikes at ascending altitudes, going 1,000m higher every day. Rush it – and fail to drink enough – and we can expect the headaches, nausea and giddiness of altitude sickness (puna). If we turn out to be total drama queens, it could develop into vomiting and bleeding ears.

Our first expedition is an easy-peasy cycle ride into San Pedro. The low-level adobe settlement has developed a reputation as an adrenaline centre, flogging soft desert adventure to backpacker tourists. But it’s still a one-llama town – and he’s asleep. The main street is called Caracoles. That’s ‘snail’ in English.This oasis, quenched by two rivers, was a centre of pre-Columbian culture with the local Atacameños knocking up covetable rugs and jewellery. Archaeology has discovered mummification pits for gran and grandpa, and an addiction to cebil seeds.

Lord knows why they even needed seeds. Even chemically-unassisted, the Atacama is a Dalíesque landscape of surreal colours and rock formations stuffed with visible minerals – iridescent copper, lemon-tinted sulphur, Dulux-white borax. Our first hike through the Valle de la Luna delivers pink and orange cliffs sandwiched between black sand and the bluest of skies. Rocks flecked with salt masquerading as freshly fallen snow point us towards a sprawling valley floor with a crust like overcooked fruit crumble. At sunset the whole lot ignites into ochre and gold.

Each step of acclimatisation is radically different. We hike up the Puritama River, little more than a trickle of perspiration through a rocky canyon, its progress marked by a swaying snake of pampas grass. At 3,500m, the guide’s humour is as dry as the landscape. ‘My nose is really running,’

sniffles one of the group. ‘Is it the altitude?’ ‘It could be,’ comes the guide’s poker-faced reply. ‘Or it could be a tumour.’

Our reward for the hike is a ladder of muscle-relaxing thermal pools slap-bang in the middle of the wilderness. The top one, reserved for guests, has changing rooms, fluffy robes and a sloping deck. Beneath a sunshade, a gingham-clad table groans with iced juice and canapés. In the middle of an untamed desert, it’s the most surreal Atacama sight to date.

Shapes, light and perspectives are constantly changing. Our first three days involve walks into three diverse landscapes (and a return to lovely Hotel de Larache each night), and the last day is the most spectacular. Within minutes of setting out, we see bright pink flamingos feasting on shrimps in Salar de Atacama’s inland sea

THE ANDES

KWT_andes.indd 43 6/3/2009 8:16:02 PM

22 KWT44 KWT

of mottled white salt. But it’s just a taster for the Tatio geysers. Two hours’ drive north onto the Altiplano – land above 4,000m – they resemble the steaming aftermath of an apocalyptic battle.

Every nine minutes, as if to celebrate their status as the highest on Earth, the deep magma chambers spew smoke and boiling water onto ice-covered plains.

The geysers aren’t the only thing wheezing. Our walk near Mount Copa Coya, just south of the Bolivian border, descends

before rising sharply to 4,500m. The guides use it as a filter, gauging who’s ready for the high peaks.

To start, we have the distraction of billowing smoke, perhaps lit by a shepherd to keep pumas away from his flocks. Soon however, strides are slowing, breaths shortening, foreheads thumping. Our guide Nico dives into his rucksack. ‘Are you going to radio for help?’ ‘No, I’m taking a picture. The smoke could be drug dealers crossing from Bolivia.’ The final few hundred metres are like a premonition of senility. I shuffle along, stopping every few paces to suck hard on unsatisfying air. Just walking leaves me short of breath, but we pass the test. We are ready to cross the Andes.

It means an early start on day four – and, just outside San Pedro, our first Atacama traffic jam. The queue is for immigration and customs, 200km from the remote mountain border, where we wait behind Argentinean

and Bolivian lorries, a Brazilian bus and a backpacker van from Peru. On the wall, a missing-persons poster shows Jean Pablo Uride, a man with Charles Bronson eyes and a scarred neck. I fear he may be feeding the flamingos.

And, finally, we’re off, serenaded by a CD of Ill Apu pan pipes – ludicrous in your living room, but great in the Andes. To our left, a vast purple-black plain leads up to a Toblerone bar of volcanic peaks, and a truly brutal landscape: rocky soccer pitches are marked out with sulphur, alfalfa plantations are withered by arsenic in the water, and black flags flap above Toconao – a protest against the mines that gulp thousands of litres of precious water each second.

Around Socaire, the road rises skywards, mutating into gravel. At about 4,000m, we park and begin to hike. The wind chill is -15ºC but the mind-bending scenery more than makes up for the cold. It eclipses

THE ANDES

Clockwise from this image: El Tatio, a view over a salt lake, Salar

KWT_andes.indd 44 6/1/2009 11:26:20 AM

45KWT

anything seen before: cappuccino and chai latte volcanoes, their summits streaked with sulphur, salt and snow, encircle emerald lagoons and red plains splattered with bright yellow scrub.

But you can’t eat scenery. It was time for the trump card. These trips are famed for their picnics, and today, as a side- serving to the well-cooked landscape, they dish up salmon and prawn ceviche, along with chicken and ham, all digested with a fine fresh fruit juice.

Back in the van, we snooze towards the border. The final Chilean police station, one of the bleakest postings on the planet, is a corrugated iron hut with a radar, flag and relentless wind sulking off a lifeless plain. ‘We can go for weeks without cars,’ says the young, khaki-clad guard. ‘If it snows, we’re stuck.’ Fifteen kilometres of no-man’s land, and Bienvenidos! We’re in Argentina. The customs office has signs offering $100,000

for information about four moustachioed kidnappers. Chilean smiles are gone, replaced with wall-to-wall scowls. ‘The officer has just arrived,’ says Nico. ‘He is feeling the puna.’

Ha! We aren’t. And we’re descending, swapping barren, windswept mountains for an endless quilt of chocolate and mustard hills. Sights begin to blur: a plain specked with llamas; the disused railway line that once carried ‘The Train to the Clouds’; and San Antonio de los Cobres, a town of sad-eyed dogs, swirling litter and all the joyous Latino charm of Luton.

The day holds one last surprise – the 5,000m-high pass of Abra de Acay. In the failing light we can’t see the vertiginous drops. Sides simply vanish into a dark void. Knuckles tighten, jokes become more nervous, and we count the twists and turns. At number 100 we’re still climbing.

When we do descend, it’s through willow

and pepper trees (startling sights after the Atacama), villages with spaghetti-western names like El Rodeo and Campo Largo, and 600-year-old Inca granaries hewn from the rock in deep, dark caves.

And, soon, the temperature is hot enough to sit in the serene central square of colonial Cachi and drink cheap juices as old Chevvies cruise by. Our base, La Finca Rancagua, is a tastefully converted school overlooking the vast Calchaquies valley, and a contender for South America’s best bathtub view.

When we venture out, it’s to ramble among six-metre-high cacti, shimmering silver-green against the wall of dark mountains – mini expeditions that underline how altitude has strengthened our lungs. But there’s no time for smugness: 24 hours later, we start our final descent off the edge of the Andean Plateau. Within 35 minutes we’ve driven down 2,000m. Brown rock has become sub-tropical green, creeper hangs from trees, houses have lush front lawns.

Our serenade is now an accordion, violins and melancholy Argentinean crooning. The road fattens into dual carriageway with traffic lights – the first of the trip – and the streets of Salta teem with life. For all the silk sleeping bags, attentive guides and free moisturiser – we wear the enigmatic, middle-distance stare of grizzled explorers. We have, after all, just crossed the Andes.

The road from La Paz to Coroico

KWT_andes.indd 45 6/1/2009 11:26:21 AM

22 KWT46 KWT

KWT_hong kong.indd 46 6/1/2009 11:34:12 AM

47KWT

John Thatcher heads to Hong Kong for a long weekend of fine food, excellent entertainment and some seriously good shopping.

HONG KONG

“How are you enjoying your food?” asked our overly excited host as my wife and I tucked into a spread of beautifully prepared Chinese dishes. “Fantastic”, I enthused. “It really is fantastic”.

“That’s good” he replied, as his lips ceased into a smile. The kind of smile one cracks when a particularly cunning plan comes to fruition. “I can now tell you that you’ve just ate a swift’s spittle!” he roared, his chopsticks shaking as he laughed. And I got the impression that I’m not the first visiting journalist to fall foul of his culinary trap. As it was I was already aware of what makes up a birds nest, that most expensive of Chinese delicacies, but I wasn’t about to deny him his moment of glory.

We were sat in Yan Toh Heen at the harbour-side InterContinental Hong Kong, which even at lunchtime was chockfull of diners. “This is one of the city’s best Chinese restaurants”, reckons our host, and on the evidence of our midday feast he’s not exaggerating. Of course, hailing from Dubai where in-hotel dining is more a necessity

than a sporadic treat, the last thing we wanted to do was eat in hotels, especially when Hong Kong – or Honkers as expat locals like to call it – boasts so many great stand-alone restaurants, but Yan Toh Heen certainly has to be tried.

We’d get to sample an abundance of Chinese cuisine over the course of our four-day stay in this most vibrant of cities, eating at Michelin-starred eateries which were bizarrely light on the wallet – no more than US$20 for a three course meal at places like the excellent Tim’s Kitchen on Jervois Street, Sheung Wan. Another great place is the artwork-strewn OVOlogue in Wanchi, where a cinema screen flickers with black and white photographs of old Hong Kong. Or if you fancy treating yourself to something special, head to Hutong in Kowloon, which not only boasts a Michelin star but also cracking views over Hong Kong Island.

The always-busy harbour splits Kowloon from Hong Kong Island and though taxis are always on hand to take you between the two, it’s far better to take the famous Star Ferry which sets sail every fifteen minutes and

takes less time still to complete its journey. If you time it right you can cross the harbour mid-Symphony of Lights, a nightly laser and sound extravaganza that illuminates the city’s multiple skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island and sends strands of light dancing off the low-rise rooftops in Kowloon.

On our first morning we made for The Peak and a bird’s eye view of the sprawling city below, which looks to have risen Atlantis-like from the ocean. You take an old-fashioned tram to the top where in addition to a telescope-lined viewing deck you’ll find just enough attractions to make a real morning of your trip. Madame Tussauds and its multiple waxworks is probably the pick of these – it features a mock-asylum where actors jump in your path as you walk through the darkness and a sign asks that you kindly refrain from thumping them – but should you have kids in tow they’d probably much prefer the space station-like EA Experience, where they can submerge themselves in the virtual world of gaming. If you’re going to eat while at The Peak, try out a tongue-tingling Sichuan at the stylish Tien Yi.


22 KWT48 KWT

That afternoon we got to indulge our own inner children with a trip to Ocean Park, which is famed as much for its in-residence giant pandas – a gift from the Chinese mainland – as for its hourly dolphin and sealion show which gives the park its name. It’s spread over three themed areas which are cut into the hillside at varying levels and linked by cable car and an unfeasibly

long escalator, for those without a head for heights. And in terms of attractions there’s much for a family to enjoy – interactive games for toddlers, thrill-a-second rides for teens and parents and a cool aquarium stocked with multi-hued fish.

The city’s other main attraction for families is an outpost of the world-famous Disneyland which, although much smaller than its US counterparts, still manages to pack in just enough of that old Disney charm to ensure that everyone inside is

all smiles. It’s particularly good for – and seemingly geared towards – small children with the only obvious concession to teens and above being the simply brilliant Space Mountain ride. It’s possible to cover the park in an afternoon, as we did, when you’ll get to see Mickey and his mates parade through the grounds on giant floats, but be sure to stick around until the nightly firework display which lights up the sky over Mickey’s castle to signal the end of another day in Disneyland.

Back in the real world, Hong Kong was far from bidding arrivederci to the day and so we took the Star Ferry over to downtown before flagging a cab to take us the rest of the way to Lang Kwai Fong. It’s an area abuzz with restaurants, cafes and clubs which stay open way into the early hours and the fact that it’s pedestrianised encourages throngs of revellers to gather in the streets – get there early, especially at weekends. A more refined option after dark is the hilly Soho area, which has clusters of great outlets, especially along Staunton Street.

Soho’s also a great area to stroll round during the day as it boasts a fair few quirky stores to pop in and out of. Another good walk can be had along Hollywood Road where you’ll pass numerous art, antique and curio stores before arriving at an all-day restaurant called The Press Room – stop there for a coffee and an indulgent crêpe suzette.

If you’re in town on a Sunday head over to Stanley mid-morning and stroll its promenade. There’s a stretch of al fresco eateries – just yards from the beach – where people sit with the Sunday papers, reveling in the relaxed atmosphere. When you get peckish the dim sum at the charmingly-aged Shu Zhai is a must-try. The other reason people pay a visit to Stanley is for its market, which does a nice

Clockwise from top left: The Lion Pavillion on The Peak, Star Ferry, Ocean Park cable cars, view over Hong Kong, the Harbour


49KWT

HONG KONG

line in local art. But though Hong Kongers take their shopping seriously you won’t find them leafing through racks of goods at the city’s other myriad markets. These are the preserve of tourists, where everything from ‘I Love Hong Kong’ t-shirts and counterfeit designer fashions to vintage watches and Chairman Mao bedecked souvenirs (from the weird to the ridiculous) can be found.

And if it’s souvenirs you’re after, the Jade Market – which sells the green stone in all shapes and sizes – is arguably your best bet. Jade’s an important stone in Chinese culture with locals believing that wearing it, often as a bracelet or necklace, wards off ill health. However, it seemingly does nothing to ward off the surfeit of stall tenders whose sales pitches create a din as they battle it out for your tourist dollars.

More so for the atmosphere than the wares it sells – basically the very definition of tourist tat – the Night Market is also worth a visit pre-dinner. Amidst the many stalls you’ll find cafés whose heavily populated tables spill onto the streets and street entertainers captivating the crowds. But it’s at the far end of the market where the atmosphere changes from jovial to downright comical. Here you’ll find table after table of palm readers and numerologists but with nothing to tell you who’s best or how much they charge. We decided to go by their faces, choosing a smiling Chinese Elvis lookalike. In hindsight, the genuine Elvis would have made a better stab at reading our fortunes.

“I think that you work with something mechanical, yes?” asked Chinese Elvis after he’d spent a good five minutes furiously scribbling down numbers once I’d told him my date of birth.

“No, I replied.“Yes, something mechanical. Or a

teacher.”“Or a teacher?” I asked.


22 KWT50 KWT

“You drive, yes. I see it. A driver”“No, I’m not a driver.”“An engineer?”“This isn’t going well is it?”“Ok, what is it that you do?” he asked, a

little aggressively.“I’m a writer,” I said. “I write for

magazines”.“Yes, yes. I know it. I see it. I say

you write”.“No you didn’t, you said I was a teacher.”

But he wasn’t for arguing.Instead, he predicted what I had in store,

which amounted to a marriage in two years time and the birth of a child soon after. Naturally, such revelations did not sit well with my heavily pregnant wife of two years who was sat at my side. In fact, it appeared that he didn’t possess the ability to see at

all, let alone the future, failing to spot our wedding rings and the not unnoticeable weather-balloon-sized bump my wife was sporting – he told her she’d have a child in three years’ time. In the end he asked for HK$50 and I haggled him down to $20. Surely he could have seen that coming?

Elsewhere in the city, the locals have their pick of label-loaded malls – IFC is the best for designer garb – and some of the best boutiques you’ll find anywhere globally. The GCC may be bereft of stores stocking vintage clothing but Hong Kong has it in abundance and you can pick up second hand couture at places like In Place, which you’ll find in the Pedder Building, Central. It stocks an incredible amount – it would take you the best of a day to see most of it, and thanks to my wife it did – of designer clothes, a lot

of which were worn on the red carpet by Chinese celebrities.

But for something truly unique, hunt out Sam’s Tailor. Such is the reputation of this modest, box-like shop that imposters have been known to dupe tourists into thinking that they were at Sam’s as intended, when in fact they were taken to a rival tailor. So avoid disappointment by heading to the ground floor of the Burlington Arcade in Kowloon. What makes Sam’s so sought- after? You’ll know the answer to that question once you step inside his shop and see that every inch of wall space features a famous face who has used – or continues to use – Sam’s services. Everyone from presidents to pop stars, male and female, seemingly owns an item of Sam’s clothing and he’ll rustle you up a suit, shirt, dress or skirt in a matter of days – 24 hours in the case of shirts. What’s more he’ll keep your measurements on file so you can phone-in an order from afar. How’s that for a way to never forget your trip to Hong Kong? John Thatcher flew to Hong Kong from Dubai with Cathay Pacific

HONG KONG


Book a three night stay at One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives and receive a 4th night and return airport transfer by luxury yacht for free. Conditions apply. Travel must be completed by 15 October 2009. To book or for details of longer

stay offers, contact your travel professional, visit oneandonlyresorts.com, or email [email protected]. For a brochure call +960 664 8800.

One&Only Reethi Rah is part of a portfolio of distinctive and memorable resorts in The Bahamas, Dubai, Maldives, Mauritius, Mexico and now Cape Town. Call +960 664 8800, email [email protected] or visit oneandonlyresorts.com.

The Spa of course is fabulous but sometimes nothing beats retail therapy Live the moment.

35234 KER] Reethi Rah KWT JUNE.indd 1 5/18/09 2:31:04 PM

22 KWT52 KWT

Picturesque old buildings, heady nightlife and bustling bazaars are probably what spring to mind when you think of holidaying in Turkey. The country is also awash with stunning coastline, though, meaning you can take a chilled-out vacation in the most tranquil of settings. But which beach resort should you choose? Jola Chudy has the lowdown on the top five...

KWT_turkey beaches.indd 52 6/1/2009 10:38:10 AM

53KWT

TURKEY

Patara in Fethive boasts one the longest beaches in the Mediterranean. At 50 metres wide and 20 km long, this stretch of golden coastline is also one of the most beautiful. An obvious lure for tourists with its turquoise ocean, it also attracts loggerhead turtles, who come to lay their eggs on the pristine white sand during the months of July and August. The area is under environmental protection and as a result the nearest hotels are to be found in the village of Gelemis, two kilometres inland. Many offer only simple bed and breakfast accomodation, but make up in charm what they lack in five star qualities. Most hotels in the region also run a regular mini-bus shuttle service to and from Patara.

The family-owned Delfin Hotel (pataradelfinhotel.com) is a good middle-of-road option, offering easy access to both the coastline and the quaint Patara village. The Golden Pension Hotel (goldenpensionpatara.com) is also a sound option, providing a homely yet comfortable atmosphere in the most beautiful of rural settings. Think lemon trees, twisting vine leaves and wandering bougainvillea - the perfect place to relax and leave your stresses behind.


22 KWT54 KWT

Looking for a secluded destination in Turkey where you won’t be swamped by hordes of tourists? Head to Gemile Bay. This secluded resort, near to Fethiye, has a sleepy air about it. The unspoilt cove of Gemile offers a great view of the historic Saint Nicholas Island; you can swim or take a ferry across to it. And the area is not just picturesque - Fethiye has a long and interesting history and there are many cultural sites worth visiting. Check out the The Afkule monastery, the Tomb of Amyntas and The Telmassos Ancient Theatre in particular.

There are plenty of bed and breakfast-type hotels in the area which offer fine accommodation which won’t break the bank. The Green Anatolia Club and Hotel (greenanatolia.com) is one. Located on the outskirts of Hisaronu, against a backdrop of rolling mountains, it’s a quiet little hotel which not only has easy access to the picturesque bay, but also does great Turkish baths. You’ll be so blissed-out you may never want to leave. The Markan Beach Hotel (markanbeachhotel.com) is a slightly more up-market option, located near to Gemile cove, within walking distance from the charming Oludeniz Beach.

TURKEY


Untitled-3 1 5/26/2009 3:45:34 PM

22 KWT56 KWT

It’s not for nothing that Antalya is the most popular holiday resort in Turkey. The ancient city, located on the Mediterranean Coast in the south of the country attracts an impressive 30 per cent of the tourist population each year.

With shady palm-lined boulevards, a picturesque marina and a plethora of coffee shops, restaurants and bars to choose from, the picturesque old quarter, Kaleici, has retained its old-world character. Think narrow winding streets, white-washed houses and wild bougainvillea plants, all surrounded by the ancient city walls.

Just out of Antalya, The Premium Belek, part of the Rixos chain (rixos.com), is well worth the journey. It’s set in a forest filled with pistachio and pine trees and has a kilometre of sandy beach, alongside a dedicated water park, the Troy Aqua, which has wonderful pools, slides, master blasters and a flow rider surf pool.

Alternatively, you could stay at the Mardan Palace (mardanpalace.com), a truly stunning place which pitches itself as ‘the most luxurious resort in the Mediterranean’.


57KWT

Locals fondly refer to Bodrum as the ‘Aegean Pearl’ of Turkey and on visiting this picturesque port in the south west of the country it’s easy to see why. While many other Turkish resorts have sky-rocketed upwards, spawning ugly high-rise apartment blocks and dampening down their indigenous culture with tacky western-style spots, Bodrum has, despite being a popular tourist destination, changed little in recent years.

One of the main draws is its fabulous coastline which becomes apparent as soon as you leave the stony beaches of the charming port. There’s a sophisticated air to this part of Turkey due in part to its preserved history which dates back to 5000 years ago. But where to stay? We recommend The Premium Bodrum (rixos.com) which boasts a lovely beach, where you can practise watersports including canoeing, surfing and water polo. After a long day of sunbathing you’ll enjoy a fantastic dinner at the Sini, a lovely Turkish restaurant, followed by a shisha at the Nargile Café.

Another hotel worth checking out is the The Aegean Dream Resort (aegeandream.com) which offers a near-perfect private beach as well as a quaint jetty dotted with sun-beds.

TURKEY


22 KWT58 KWT

For those who are more concerned with sun-bathing and dining than culture and sight-seeing, the Mediterranean Coastal town of Alanya is an obvious choice. Popular with Europeans and Russians alike, the resort has grown up around a long stretch of beautiful beach, lying 115 kilometres to the east of Antalya. Expect to go out in the evenings if you opt for this resort: there are plenty of restaurants and cafés to choose from, many located in the Harbour area of the city, which becomes very busy after 10pm at night. A popular hotspot with both tourists and locals is the James Dean which has plays music to suit almost every taste, with regular appearances from international DJs. The Sunset Beach Hotel (sunsetbeachhotel.com.tr) which is the only five star hotel in Alanya is close to the harbour and right on the beach. Alternatively, try the four-star Saphir Hotel, also right on the coastline and offering a shady garden area for when it gets too hot to sunbathe. This is a good family option with designated activities for kids and in-house baby-sitting. The indoor and outdoor restaurants at The Saphir have a wide selection of fresh food throughout the day and night, fusing modern cuisine with traditional Turkish delicacies.

TURKEY


So what’s so great about Rixos? Well, for a start, all their properties have spas and hammams where you can indulge in traditional Turkish therapies. And they offer guests a carnival atmosphere thanks to regular shows by acrobats, dancers and other performers. Not only that, but also kids are taken good care of at the Rixy Clubs, which offer them amazing activities and facilities. These truly are some of the country’s very best hotels...

RIXOS PREMIUM BELEKOn the ‘Turkish Riviera’, you can stay at the Rixos Premium Belek (00 90 242 710 20 00), which is home to Europe’s biggest Dolphinarium and Water Kingdom, modelled on the ancient city of Troy. Visitors climb up a 24 metre reproduction of the Trojan Horse and then whizz down it on waterslides, before relaxing on the kilometre of private beach. There are a whole host of activities on offer, including

yoga, surfing, canoeing, spa treatments (make sure to chill out in the Snow Room afterwards) squash and tennis. The hotel has superb suites, including a lovely Royal

Premium Suite, and you can arrive by Jaguar, Mercedes or – if you’re coming in by Antalya – by helicopter or private jet.

RIXOS PREMIUM BODRUMMeanwhile at the Rixos Premium Bodrum (00 90 252 337 11 22) set over the beautiful

Zeytinlikahve Bay, visitors find a lovely turquoise sea, tranquil atmosphere and sophisticated rooms and seafront suites. You can get involved in watersports including parasailing, jetskiing and waterskiing while your kids enjoy the dedicated children’s tennis club. And in the evenings you’ll head to one of eight first-class restaurants for dinner.

RIXOS SUNGATE Over at the Rixos Sungate (00 90 242 824 00 00) in Beldibi, Antalya, you’ll find the longest stretch of coastline available to any hotel in the area, plus beautiful landscaping and no less than sixteen swimming pools. It’s set in the foothills of the Taurus mountains, with views out over the Mediterranean and the world’s second largest hotel SPA center. Pick of the accommodation are the Family Lake Houses and the amazing Presidential Villa, equipped with its own cinema room.


TALKING TURKEY

AT THE RIXOS PREMIUM BODRUM, VISITORS FIND A LOVELY TURQUOISE SEA, TRANQUIL ATMOSPHERE AND SOPHISTICATED ROOMS

Thinking of heading to Turkey on your holidays this summer? There’s only one name you need to know – Rixos (www.rixos.com).

Clockwise from this image: Rixos Premium Bodrum, Rixos Premium Belek, Rixos Sungate

turkey advertorial.indd 67 6/2/2009 2:29:22 PM

61KWT

Where should I eat tonight?Paphos has a huge spread of dining options, and you can’t leave without trying some traditional Cypriot mezze. People love the fish mezze at Mandra Taverna, but for something more elegant head to Il Classico (00 357 2693 9777). Each dish is decorated like a piece of art, with intricate patterns complementing the food. Try the Scottish sirloin cooked for 12 hours or the seabream baked in seaweed crust, and don’t leave without trying their desserts.

And where should I go shopping?Make your way into Paphos Town to buy some delicately-woven Cyprus lace, or hand-turned pottery and paintings to take a little bit of the island home with you. What about culture?The Tomb of Kings is Paphos’ main attraction. Villas with striking mosaic floors are being excavated near the Paphos harbour; and mosaics depicting mythological scenes can be seen at the Villa of Theseus. almyra.com

6.09 CONCIERGESHOP DINE VISIT ENJOY

THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE

ALMYRA HOTEL,PAFOS, CYPRUS

Imag

e co

urte

sy o

f Des

ign

Hot

els™

KWT_Conceirge.indd 61 6/2/2009 3:53:52 PM

1 BURJUMANBurJuman is

unmatched when it comes to luxurious, high end fashion shopping. Located in the very heart of the city, it offers the latest collections from the world’s leading fashion houses, including Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Cavalli and Salvatore Ferragamo. The mall is also home to Dubai’s very first branch of Saks Fifth Avenue. If you’re looking for retail therapy without the gimmicks this is your place. burjuman.com

2 MALL OF THE EMIRATES

Back in 2005, Mall of the Emirates was the largest mall in the UAE, and even though its glory days aren’t behind it, the newer, shinier Dubai Mall is giving it a run for its money. MOE still has a few trump cards though, most noticeably its collection of edgier fashion outlets like Harvey Nichols, alongside Ski Dubai - the indoor ski slope where temperatures always hover around freezing. In addition to

the shopping, Mall of the Emirates also houses the Dubai Community Theatre and Arts Centre, which always has a show running.malloftheemirates.com

3 DUBAI MALLIn a city where big is

never quite big enough, Dubai Mall has taken gargantuan shopping to a whole new, incredibly massive level. It is by far the biggest mall in the region, and the sheer breadth of shops is impossible to list. After a long day of bargain

hunting at stores as varied as Jeans West, and Mothercare and Debenhams, why not go feed the sharks at the Dubai Aquarium situated within the mall, or catch a movie at Reel Cinemas which should be up and running soon.thedubaimall.com

4 IBN BATTUTA Ibn Battuta has

one of the most original concepts when it comes to mall design, with six different décor themes to mark the travels of the famous

Arabic explorer by the same name. Located on the Sheikh Zayed Road on the way to Abu Dhabi, Ibn Battuta was sometimes forgotten amongst the plethora of glitzy shopping outlets; and although the mall doesn’t come with the a ski slope, aquarium or ice rink, it is finally starting to attract the attention it deserves. ibnbattutamall.com

5 THE GOLD SOUKResidents of Dubai

who were here before the boom knew they

62 KWT

The next few months see the Dubai Summer Surprises shopping festival kick in to top gear: but which malls should you head to first?

Shop Dubai

THE HOT SPOTS

Emirates Towers BoulevardRight: Ibn Battuta Mall, the Gold Souk

U.A.E.

SHOP_dubai.indd 62 6/2/2009 2:13:58 PM

could find a bargain and more at Deira’s Gold Souk. While the souk doesn’t offer mall amenities like air-conditioning, what it does offer is a mind boggling array of gold, silver and diamond jewellery. The souk is regulated so you know that everything you buy is bona fide, but be prepared to haggle hard. Although, with some of the cheapest gold prices in the world you’re walking away with a bargain: not something you can say

very often these days.dubaigoldsouk.com

6 EMIRATES TOWERS

BOULEVARDIn keeping with its sleek, expensive aesthetic, Emirates Towers has an ultra chic boulevard for the truly discerning shopper. Cartier, Armani, Jimmy Choo and Bulgari are a few of the stores you’ll find here, as well as some world class restaurants to wind down in.jumeirah.com

7 SOUK AL BAHARIn the shadow

of the world’s tallest tower lies Souk Al Bahar, one of Dubai’s latest shopping and entertainment destinations. Blending the old world charms of Old Town within the modern context of the Downtown Burj area, Souk al Bahar has over 100 stores and restaurants lining the waterfront promenade from which you can stare in wonder at the glorious Dubai Fountain. theoldtownisland.com

63KWT

CONCIERGE SHOP

KWT

WHERE TO STAY

jumeirah.comStay at the iconic Emirates Towers, located in the centre of Dubai’s business district, and distinctive for its gleaming, sharp-lined structure. The rooms overlook the ultra-modern Sheikh Zayed road, and come equipped with all the latest amenities: make sure

to book a limousine transfer from Dubai Airport to complete the experience. You don’t have to wander far for a good meal, with restaurants like Al Nafoorah offering authentic Lebanese fare and the excellent Rib Room tempting you with the most mouth watering steaks and the freshest seafood.

EMIRATES TOWERS

SHOP_dubai.indd 63 6/2/2009 2:14:09 PM

22 KWT64 KWT

Foodies will be surprised by the range of restaurants on offer in Qatar’s capital, says Parinaaz Navdar...

Dine DohaQATAR

The Market, W Hotel

LA MERLocated on the top floor of the Ritz-Carlton, La Mer is the hotel’s signature restaurant and offers breathtaking views of the Arabian Gulf. Try the signature tasting menu for a little bit of everything, from their fennel-cured salmon to marinaded wild berries. Alternatively, start your meal with their cinnamon-braised rabbit aumonière, followed by the

Mediterranean seabass. You need to dress up for an evening at La Mer, but it is well worth the effort.ritzcarlton.com

SALSAIts not often you find an excellent Tex-Mex at a hotel, but the Marriott offers an exception in Salsa, a restaurant where you’ll eat in a rustic Mexican setting, with a live band to entertain you. This is fun, casual dining at its

best: order yourselves a platter of fiesta de salsa to get started, then stay away from the steaks and salads you can eat at other places and opt instead for a hearty meal of en-chilada Cancun, which comes stuffed with tender shrimp, juicy lobster and marinaded fish. If you’re in the mood to experiment, try out the mole poblano: chicken with chocolate chili sauce. marriot.com

IL TEATROHead down to Il Teatro at the Four Seasons for a lovely long evening of traditional Italian fare. They make a point of always using the freshest ingredients and the menu is frequently changed to keep up with the seasons. Try the tuna tartare and don’t miss out on the delicate seabass cooked with raisins and almonds. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with a

traditional tiramisu or panna cotta. fourseasons.com

MARKET BY JEAN-GEORGESYou’ll be spoilt for choice at the W Hotel’s impressive Market restaurant. The Mediterranean restaurant features show cooking so you can watch as the chefs select deftly from the the thousand jars of fruits and spices to create your dish just

KWT_dine doha.indd 64 6/3/2009 8:17:01 PM

65KWT

W HOTELFor a truly glamorous place to base yourself on your gourmet tour of Doha, make reservatios at the W Hotel. Resplendent in rich, vivid colours that go hand in hand with the serious opulence of the hotel, the rooms come equipped with iPod docking stations, LCD TVs and 400-thread-count linen. If you feel the need to work out after the food, head to the WET pool or SWEAT fitness centre, or continue the indulgence at the Bliss Spa.starwoodhotels.com

the way you like it. Dishes range from grilled prime sirloin and broiled shrimp salad to comfort foods like cheesey pizza. starwoodhotels.com

ISAAN Isaan is the Grand Hyatt’s signature hotel and serves authentic

Thai food. It’s justly

famous in the city for its Friday

brunch, where everything is made to order rather than in the usual buffet style. Pick whatever you like from the menu, and the staff will regularly bring around scoops of steamed rice to team it up with. Try the wonderful red curry with duck and round off with mango and sticky rice or a scoop or two

of traditional coconut ice cream. doha.grandhyatt.com

AL DANALocated at the Sharq Village and Spa, Al Dana does not take seafood lightly. The only beach side restaurant in Doha, its show kitchen boasts a sushi counter and fresh fish market for guests to choose from. Dine al fresco on the outdoor terrace enjoying unspoilt views

WHERE TO STAY

Isaan at the Grand Hyatt

CONCIERGE DINE

of the ocean, while sampling dishes like their Marseillaise fish soup made, or pick a fish from the market selection and enjoy it baked with tomatoes, olives and basil. sharqvillage.com

SEASONSSeasons Restaurant at the Mövenpick hotel has a different, themed à la carte menu on offer every night of the week. Sample Italian, Tunisian and Provencal

cuisines on Saturday’s Mediterranean nights or French food on Monday nights. Indulge yourself with rich fon-dues on Swiss nights every Tuesday, and delicisou seafood on Thursdays. Meanwhile, on Fridays, you should make sure to grab a table and enjoy their brunch, which offers a wide range of sizzled prime cuts plus grilled fish fresh from the market. movenpick-hotels.com

KWT_dine doha.indd 65 6/2/2009 3:36:03 PM

66 KWT

1PRAGUE CASTLEAccording to the

Guinness Book of Records, the Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle in the world which is still standing. The vast, imposing structure – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – was first built in the ninth century on an existing Roman fort and has seen kings, generals and prime ministers grace its fortified walls, which now protect the Czech president and the country’s crown jewels. In fact, legend has it that the Bohemian crown is cursed, something

that Reinhard Heydrich, the Nazi ruler during the Second World War, ignored when placing it on his head. He was assassinated. Look, but don’t touch. Open daily 5am-midnight, Hradcany (00 420 224 3 3368)

2THE DANCING HOUSE

Much like Barcelona and its oddball smattering of Gaudi creations, Prague has never shied away from bizarre architectural commissions, the finest being Frank Gehry’s Dancing House. Found on the banks of the

Vltava, the controversial construction is now much loved in the city, affectionately called the Fred and Ginger building because of its similarity to a dancing couple. The best way of seeing it, and the stunning views it offers of the city and Prague Castle, is to dine at the excellent French restaurant La Perle de Prague on the seventh floor. La Perle de Prague (00420 221 984 160). www.laperle.cz

3 MUSEUM OF COMMUNISM IN

CZECHOSLOVAKIAThe Czechs endured a torrid time during most

of the twentieth century: occupation, betrayal and then a long stint under repressive Communist rule. That period is commemorated at the Museum of Communism, where you will find out all about the Prague Spring, the Velvet Revolution and the lives of the Czechs during this period. From here you can also take a Communist walking tour of Prague, taking in the sites that saw the establishment of an independent state, the Nazi invasion, uprisings and resistance. Fascinating stuff. Open daily 9am-9pm,

New Town (00 420 224 212966).

4WENCESLAS SQUARE

The famous town square is the bustling centre of life in Prague. Located in the New Town, Wenceslas Square (named after the country’s patron saint) is the public space where the country’s independence was first announced in 1918, where the Prague Uprising was centred and where hundreds of thousands gathered for the Velvet Revolution which finally rid the country of Communism

Head to Eastern Europe this summer and take in the Gothic splendour of the Czech Republic’s ancient capital

Visit PragueCZECH REPUBLIC

Wenceslas Square. Right: Mozart museum, far right: the dancing house

visit prague.indd 66 6/1/2009 12:14:34 PM

67KWT

in 1989. Now it’s a lively district full of restaurants and cafes, domminated by the neo classical National Museum, which is a must-see.

5MOZART MUSEUM

Austria might be the birthplace of Mozart, but it was here in Prague that the diminutive genius found a platform for one of his most formative works. It was in 1787 in Betramka, once a vineyard estate in the countryside that has been swallowed up as Prague has grown, that Mozart finished his opus Don Giovanni which received its world premier at the city’s Estates Theatre. Today classic concerts are held in the near perfectly preserved estate, with the museum celebrating the love affair Mozart had

with Prague. Daily 9am-6pm, Betramka (00 420 257 318 461) www.betramka.cz

6OLD CITYPrague’s stunning

old town is one of the finest surviving examples of its kind in Europe, dating back to the eleventh century and miraculously escaping relatively unscathed from the bombardment of the Second World War. It is here you will find brightly coloured buildings and the city’s finest, oldest buildings and squares. Don’t miss Powder Gate, the Art Nouveau stylings of Municipal House, the National Theatre, the Town Hall and the beautiful Old City square. You will also be able to load up on what Prague is most famed for – its crystal. Perfect for gifts.

7 KAFKA’S HOUSEYou’ll find a

restaurant, Restaurace Franz Kafky, at the famous Czech writer’s former home: it’s a frustrating and claustrophobic construction where the staircase takes you around in perpetual circles and where the food never arrives. Of course, we jest, but for any literary buff Prague is full of insights in to the mysterious life of one of the greatest writers to have ever lived. If your food does ever arrive, walk down to the Franz Kafka Museum, the most comprehensive collection of the great man’s works including most of his manuscripts, private letters and diaries. Daily 10am-6pm, Lesser Town (00420 257 535 507), www.kafkamuseum.cz

CONCIERGE VISIT

WHERE TO STAY

FOUR SEASONS PRAGUEfourseasons.com There are plenty of beautiful hotels to choose from in Prague. But the most charming among them is the Four Seasons, a lovely old building set on the Vltava river and offering beautiful views of the city. The rooms are exquisite, and

because of the nature of the building, they come in idiosyncratic shapes and sizes. Dinner is taken at the Allegro restaurant, owner of the only Michelin star in the Czech Republic, where you can drink in the sight of Prague Castle as you enjoy an Italian dinner on the terrace.

visit prague.indd 67 6/1/2009 12:14:42 PM

68 KWT

JUNE - DECEMBERBEIRUT UNESCO WORLD BOOK CAPITALThere’s a saying in the Middle East: Egypt writes, Lebanon prints, Iraq reads. It’s fitting, then, that in 2009 UNESCO has chosen Beirut to be the World Book Capital. The city has come alive with cafes, restaurants and public spaces brimming with impromptu book readings, poetry groups and writers’ forums, all designed to re-established the city’s much cherished literary vibe. Go to www.beirutworldbookcapital.com for timings of events.

STARTS JUNE 20BYBLOS INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL A two-month retail event which sees prices on all products being slashed in malls across the country. Entertainment will also be laid on, alongside special dining offers: a top time for a spot of retail therapy and bargain hunting. malaysiamegasale. com.my

JULY 4-AUG 13BAALBECK FESTIVALThe final of Lebanon’s three big festivals is

arguably the most spectacular. The Roman ruins of Baalbeck hosts this eclectic celebration of world music. Everyone from Ella Fitzgerald to Fairuz have played Baalbeck, which is lit up at night to highlight arguably the best preserved Roman ruins in the Middle East. Stunning. For a full list of performers check www.baalbeck.org

JULY 30PAUL ANKABeirut loves nothing better than the return of a prodigal son and in Paul

Anka, the city has one of the best songwriters of his generation. Even if you didn’t know it yet. Anka started life as a Canadian teen idol, always wearing his Lebanese parentage proudly on his sleeve, before going on to write a slew of hit songs including ‘She’s a Lady’ for Tom Jones and ‘My Way’ for Frank Sinatra.

Well, he took the melody from a

French song but Sinatra was so impressed it stopped

him retiring. Still

it’s the next best thing to seeing

Ol’ Blue Eyes perform

it himself. www.virginboxoffice.com

DOCUDAYSSEPTEMBER 22-27Beirut has long been known for its cinema, ‘Caramel’ and ‘West Beirut’ being two films that wowed the judges at Cannes and gave Lebanese film an international platform. But DocuDays will be a celebration of the region’s non-fiction cinema. The event is heralded as the Middle East’s most important documentary showcase, where provocative films from across the Arab world will be shown to rapt audiences. Unmissable. www.docudays.com

DECEMBER 6BEIRUT MARATHON Top international runners and anyone who has the iron will to train for an energy-sapping 25 mile run will be taking part in the Beirut Marathon on December 6. The route will take runners through the city and south, along the stunning Sidon coast road. The event has been dominated by the Ethiopians – who have scooped the gold medal in both the men’s and women’s race for the past two years. Best to watch the drama unfold from the sidelines. www.beirutmarathon.org

A jam-packed year of cultural events awaits in Lebanon: see you at Baalbeck...

Enjoy Beirut CONCIERGE ENJOY

TOP EVENTS

Baalbeck, home to the world-famous festival

KWT_Enjoy beirut.indd 68 6/1/2009 11:52:56 AM

Untitled-1 1 5/28/2009 10:30:49 AM

70 KWT

BAHRAINAbu Obeidah AvenueWroad No. 302

ManamaTel: 17 576950

MahoozTel: 17 828754

Awali BranchSitrah AvenueRoad No. 4522

Awali Tel: 17 756487

Al Moayd TowerManamaTel: 17 220220

Kanoo HolidaysMahoozTel:17 828802

Kanoo TravelRefineryTel: 17 755012

Airport OfficeBahrainTel: 17 321325

Egypt AirManamaTel: 17 220747

LufthansaMahoozTel:17 828763

Air IndiaManamaTel:17 220788

Cyprus AirwaysManamaTel:17 220 849

British AirwaysManamaTel:17 220701

Qantas / Jetabout ManamaTel: 17220743

Thai InternationalMahoozTel: 17 828771

Air Canada / Austrian Airlines / Polish Olympic Airways / Sudan Airways / Sas / Swiss Int’l / TunisMahoozTel.17 828770

EGYPTAlexandria Booz Allen 1 Youssef El-Shazly Street

Roushdy, Alexandria Tel: 002 03 5459265 Alexandria 14 May Str, Sayadlia Building Symoha Tel: 020 03 424 1050

Aswan Abtal El-Tahrir Street Corniche El-Nil Tel: 002 097 2306983

Heliopolis Business Travel Centre 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Heliopolis Cairo Tel: 002 02 4130375/6

Cairo HalliburtonC/O Halliburton Overseas Ltd Kilometer No 10 Land No 30 Ein Sokhna Road North Kattamia Cairo Tel: 002 02 27591690

Cairo 07 Dr. Kamal Hussin Heliopolis Cairo Tel: 002 02 26251307

CairoSchlumberger C/O Schlumberger Zeiny Tower 25 Misr Helwan Road Maadi Tel: 002 02 7684700 Ext. 1014

CairoU.N.D.P C/O U.N.D.P., 4th Fl, World Trade Center 1191 Cornich El NilTel: 002 02 25804491

CairoKasr El Nil 15 Kasr El Nil Street Down Town Tel: 002 02 25747991

CairoNile Hilton Nile Hilton Hotel Down Town Tel: 002 02 25785001

Cairo1 Wahib Doss Str. Office No 9 Maadi Tel: 002 02 27513930

El AreeshMfo C/O Mfo Northern Sinai Tel: 002 068 3502868

Luxor Winter Palace Hotel Tel: 002 095 2378333

FRANCEForeign Exchange11 Rue ScribeParis 75009Tel: +33 1 5300 9897

Foreign Exchange11 Cours de I’IntendanceBordeaux 33000Tel: +33 5 5600 6336

Bureau de Change KanooPrintemps Dept. Store64 Boulevard Haussmann75009 PARIS+ (33) 1 42 82 41 81

OMANKanoo Travel LLCPO Box 75114 Jibroo, MuscatTel: +968 24700249

QATAROld Al Hitmi StreetMuseum Street, DohaTel: 04 441 3441

Conoco PhillipsSalam TowerAl Corniche Street, DohaTel: 04 443 7595

SAUDI ARABIAWESTERN PROVINCE

Kanoo CentreMedina Road, JeddahTel: 02 661 4950

Bab MakkahJeddahTel: 02 644 9030

Bamaroof CentreHail Street, JeddahTel: 02 653 0541

Khamis Abha Main RoadKhamis MushayatTel: 07 222 3624

Prince Sultan StreetGizanTel: 07 317 4285

AboobackerAl Siddiq Street, MedinaTel: 04 823 9120

Al Nawa Commercial CentreAl SinnaiyatYanbuTel: 04 321 3607

Albishar Commercial CentreKing Abdulaziz StreetAl Bahar, YanbuTel: 04 322 1087

Umalquara StreetHayferMakkahTel: 02 544 7741

Kanoo TravelSharafiyaTel.02 643 9426

Kanoo TravelTaifTel.02 736 4211

Air IndiaJeddahTel.02 263 2994 / 669 6933 Ext 158

Gulf Air JeddahTgel.02 6691542 / 6691603 / 646

Singapore AirlinesJeddahTel.02 6579898

Srilankan AirlinesJeddahTel.02 2632959

Air CanadaJeddahTel.02 263 2996, Ext 190

Kenyan AirwaysJeddahTel.02 263 2959 Ext 108

Philippine AirwaysJeddahTel.02 263 2959 Ext 100 / 122

United AirlinesJeddahTel.02 263 3021 / 2959 Ext 196 / 197

EASTERN PROVINCE

Airline CentreKing Abdul Aziz StreetAl KhobarTel: 03 882 2206

Kanoo Holidays, RetailAirline Centre, KhobarTel. 03 882 2206 / 2601 / 2249

Kanoo Holidays, WholesaleAirline Centre, KhobarTel. 03 8821626 / 1851 / 8820161

HertzKhobarTel. 03 882 2005 / 5597

Airport OfficeDammamTel. 03 883 2660 / 2660

British AirwaysKhobarTel. 03 882 2000

British AirwaysDammamTel. 03 8355714

British Airways JubailTel. 03 362 1069

Air IndiaKhobarTel. 03 882 2478

Air IndiaJubailTel. 03 362 3454

QantasKhobarTel 03 882 3711 / 2467

United Airlines / Air Canada / Singapore Air-lines / Swissair /Austrian AirlinesTel. 03 882 1518/ 2962 / 2602 / 03 882 4477 / 4442 / 4890 / 4533

Srilankan AirlinesKhobarTel.03 882 2789 / 2675 / 2792

Gulf AirKhobarTel.03 896 8496 / 9393 / 8493

Gulf Air DammamTel.03 835 4194 / 4917 / 4952

Gulf Air QatifTel. 03 852 9384 / 854 5240

Gulf AirRastanuraTel.03 667 8041/ 7972

Gulf Air HofufTel. 03 585 3358 / 4080 / 2252

Gulf AirJubailTel.03 363 0982/ 84 / 85 /86

Kanoo TowerKing Saud Street, DammanTel 03 833 9793

Dhahran StreetDammanTel: 03 833 7694

King Khalid StreetKhobarTel: 03 864 7471

47th StreetRahimaTel: 03 667 0388

Al Quds StreetQatifTel: 03 851 5009

City CentreAl Mahoob BuidlingHufufTel: 03 586 3823

Kanoo BuildingCorniche RoadJubailTel: 03 362 2340

Municipal StreetAl KhafjiTel: 03 766 0045

CENTRAL PROVINCE

Kanoo TowerKing Abdul Aziz RoadRiyadhTel: 01 477 2228

King Faisal FoundationAl Khairia ComplexRiyadhTel: 01 463 4454

Wazir StreetAl Azizea Building

RiyadhTel: 01 411 4780

BathaRiyadhTel: 01 403 0368

Al Kubaih StreetBuraidahTel: 06 325 0888

Airport RoadHailTel: 06 543 0430

Sharjah StreetHotat Bani TamimAl HotahTel: 01 555 0304

Silsilah RoadOnaizaAl QassimTel: 06 362 0080

Main StreetAl KhamseenWadi Ad DawasirTel: 01 784 6500

Kanoo Travel NaseemTel.01 2328519

Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices, find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...

Kanoo Details_june.indd 70 6/2/2009 3:40:30 PM

71KWT

Air IndiaKanoo Tower, RiyadhTel.01477 2228 Ext 295 / 296

Gulf AirOlaya, RiyadhTel.01 461 0589 / 462 4902

United Airlines / Air CanadaKanoo Tower, RiyadhTel. 01 477 2228 Ext 289, 290

QantasKanoo Tower, RiyadhTel.01 477 2228 Ext 288, 305

Srilankan AirlinesKanoo Tower, RiyadhTel. 01 477 2228 Ext 292 X 293

Philippine Airlines Kanoo Tower, RiyadhTel.01 477 2228 Ext 237 X 238

Air India BuraidahTel.06 324 6514 / 325 0888

Gulf Air Hail. Tel. 06 532 0280

Gulf AirBuraidahTel.06 324 6514 / 325 0888

Singapore AirlinesKanoo TowerTel.4734102 / 4734103

UAEJebel Ali LOB 16, Ground FloorJebel Ali Free Zone04 881 5050

Karama Al Fathooi CentreDubaiTel: 04 334 1222

Kanoo BuildingKhalid Bin Al Waleed Street, Bur DubaiTel: 04 507 2242

Dubai Internet CityBuilding 12Tel: 04 390 1992

Deira City CentreDubaiTel: 04 294 1481

Kanoo BuildingAl Orouba StreetSharjahTel: 06 561 6058

Green Community MallJebel Ali RoadDubaiTel: 04 885 3321

Kanoo Travel – American ExpressHermitage BuildingAl KaramaTel: 04 334 9219

Najda StreetAbu DhabiTel: 02 678 0400

Kanoo Holidays DubaiTel.04 3341444 / 3156624

Marine Travel ServicesDubaiTel.04 3351314

Airport OfficeDubaiTel. 04 3931963

Kanoo TravelCorniche, Abu DhabiTel.02 6313900 / 6318187

UKBirmingham American Express Bank House. 8 Cherry Street Tel: 0121 644 5514 / 0121 644 5560

BournemouthAmerican Express 95A Old Christchurch Road Tel: 0787 260 0528 / 01202 780 752 BrightonAmex House Implant American Express Ground Floor Amex House Edward Street Tel: 01273 525 041 / 01273 525 040 Bristol American Express 74 Queens Road Tel: 01179 065 107 / 01179 065 105

Cardiff American Express 3 Queen Street Tel: 02920 649 305 / 02920 649 301 Coventry American Express 5 Cathedral Lanes Shopping Centre Tel: 0247 622 5511 / 0787 260 0528 Croydon American Express 2-4 High Street Tel: 0208 256 0808 / 0208 256 0805

Edinburgh American Express 69 George Street 0131 718 2508 / 0131 718 2505

EssexLakeside Bureau American Express Lakeside Shopping Centre West Thurrock Way West Thurrock Grays Tel: 01708 890 654 Glasgow American Express 66 Gordon StreetTel: 0141 225 2905 / 0141 225 2908” Guildford American Express 38-40 High Street Tel: 01483 551 607 / 01483 551 605

Leicester American Express 1 Horsefair Street Tel: 0116 242 1808 / 0116 242 1805

LondonHaymarket American Express 30 – 31 Haymarket Tel: 0207 484 9674 / 0207 484 9600 London Credit Swiss First Boston American Express Travel Office C/O Credit Suisse One Cabot Square Canary Wharf Tel: 0207 888 4196 LondonHolborn Bureau American Express 156a Southampton Row Tel: 0787 260 0528 / 0207 837 4416 LondonKensington High St American Express 84 Kensington High Street Tel: 0207 795 6703 LondonKnightsbridge American Express 78 Brompton Road Tel: 0207 761 7908 / 0207 761 7900,

LondonAmerican Express 1 Savoy Court The Strand Tel: 0207 240 1521 Milton KeynesAmerican Express 670 Silbury Boulevard Tel: 01908 608 877 Manchester American Express 10-12 St Mary’s Gate Tel: 0161 833 7301 / 0161 833 7301 Nottingham American Express 2 Victoria Street Tel: 0115 924 7705 / 0115 924 7701 Plymouth American Express 139 Armada Tel: 01752 502 707 / 01752 502 702

Sheffield American Express 20 Charles Street Tel: 0114 263 9308 / 0114 263 9305 Southampton American Express 99 Above Bar Tel: 02380 716 808 / 02380 716 805 York American Express6 Stonegate Tel: 01904 676 505

Sitting on the edge of a beautiful lake, in the heart of Downtown Burj Dubai, The Palace – The Old Town is just minutes away from Dubai Mall and Souk Al Bahar.

Each Palace Suite comes with spacious balconies, stunning views of the Burj Dubai and a distinctive Arabian decor which gives them a feeling of sophisticated opulence. The Spa is wonderful, and the Arabian theme continues through into its decor and treatments. Breakfast is served in Ewaan, the most perfect venue for a traditional Oriental experience. We’ve teamed up with The Palace to offer one lucky winner a two-night stay, including breakfast, at the hotel. For your chance to win the prize, email us the answer to the following question at [email protected]...

Where is The Palace located?a) Deirab) Palm Jumeirahc) Downtown Burj Dubai

TOP PRIZE

CONCIERGE EASY WIN

EASY WIN

Kanoo Details_june.indd 71 6/2/2009 3:40:36 PM

SUITEDREAMSCOMO SUITE, THE HALKIN, LONDONThere’s a lot to love about the Halkin. This chic retreat in the heart of Belgravia, just a short saunter from Hyde Park, is one of the Como group’s loveliest properties and has their signature attention to design and detail. Monochrome fixtures with blue and grey highlights bring a clean, modern feel, and the curved corridors and zen decorations add to the tranquility of this gem set on a sunny Georgian street. The Como Suite is a particular favourite of in-the-know celebrities, and comes equipped with a large dining table for in-room entertaining and conservatory windows which make the space warm and light. When it comes to dinner, guests head downstairs to the wonderful Nahm, the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Europe, where they serve some intriguing, sophisticated Royal Thai food. The perfect choice for your London break this summer.halkin.como.bz

CONCIERGE SUITE DREAMS

KWT_Suite Dreams_june.indd 2 6/2/2009 2:33:53 PM

Untitled-4 1 5/20/2009 2:13:44 PM

Untitled-3 1 5/31/2009 10:31:57 AM

kanoo world traveller june 2009

Documents