palena - queulat cultural area (aysén, an undiscovered patagonia)

PALENA - QUEULAT CULTURAL AREA

$3,206 USD

Ever since I saw a television program on the Carretera Austral, in the south of Chile, the idea of exploring it became almost an obsession. There was no question, I had to go! I started practicing up on my Spanish, saved money for a few years, sold my old car, and essentially became a travel agent to convince my friends to accompany me to Aysén, one of the lesser known areas of Patagonia. And here we are! We’ve traveled halfway around the world with our backpacks, cameras and bicycles, and now we’re ready to travel and explore.

There are several options for getting into and out of the Palena - Queulat area and the north-ern part of the Aysén region. While it all seemed a little overwhelming at first, it was really quite easy: 1) Fly to Puerto Montt, rent a car, ferry to Chaitén by boat (www.navieraustral.cl), and continue south along the Carretera Austral. It’s simple, but you definitely need to make reservations for the ferry in advance. 2) Rent a car in Santiago (or Puerto Montt) and drive down; you can drive through Chile and then take a ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Cisnes or cross into Argentina and travel south along Route 40 and cross back into Chile in Futaleufu. You could also choose to go a bit further south and take one of two other small border crossings (Lago Verde y Río Frías). They are both 100% adventure if you like 4-wheel-ing and off-road, but it’s not always possible to cross in these sections because it depends on the road conditions and the river levels. If you do choose to go through Argentina, make sure you have international permits and insurance coverage for your vehicle. 3) The third option is to fly to Coyhaique, rent a car and travel back north to the Palena - Queulat area, returning your car to Balmaceda when you fly out.

Details of my expenses: Transportation = $2,065 (Flights, Ferries, Vehicles); Accommodations and Food = $935 ($55/per day), Excur-sions and Souvenirs = $316

18 DAYS

17 NIGHTS 5 TRAVELERS(MYSELF AND 4 FRIENDS)

EXPENSES PER PERSON

Travels through the Palena - Queulat Area - Aysén Region, Chile

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Days 1 – 2: The long journey to the start of the Car-retera Austral (Southern Highway)Taking into account our finances, personal preferences and time constraints, we decided to rent a 4x4 truck in the Puer-to Montt airport and take the boat to Chaitén so we could start in La Junta. At the end of our trip we would return to Puerto Montt through Argentina. We rented a Toyota Hilux with unlimited kilometers for $2,820.00 and spent $470.00 on ferries, $100.00 on international insurance and $1,000.00 in gas and repairs (flat tire). Divided among 5, it was only $865.00 dollars p/p + flights to Puerto Montt, which we found for $1,200.00 p/p from Miami. One important tip: to receive a reasonable price for your rental, the drivers need to be at least 28 years old; otherwise, the price will double!

The ferry left at midnight and arrived a little after 08:00 in the morning. We didn’t sleep much, but woke ourselves up with a great breakfast in Chaitén. Normally, it should only take around five and a half hours to get to Chaitén, but we stopped so many times to take photos that it took us a little more than seven hours. The route was just so beautiful! We meandered through landscapes filled with lakes and rivers and surrounded by incredible ancient forests. We stopped in Futaleufu for a sandwich, dying to go rafting in its marvelous river, but decided to leave it for the next trip and continue. When we arrived in La Junta, we opted to stay in a cabin (Ca-banas Mi Ruca – they’re on Facebook) to have the oppor-tunity to cook for ourselves and leave all of our equipment in a safe place while we explored the area for a few days. Of course, having said we wanted to cook, we were all really tired after planes and boats and the Carretera Austral and no one had much energy. I was personally so tired, that I crawled into bed and didn’t even wake up for the ready-made soup Caroline prepared. Zzzzzzzzzzz.

Day 3: Our first day in Aysén - La JuntaWe awoke early to warm temperatures and a soft rain, exquisite for hiking. After a simple conversation with the owner of the cabins that involved a strange mix of Spanglish and hand gestures, we were able to understand her recommendation that we hike the Sendero de Montaña trail, located directly in front of town and leading to an overlook. The ascent wasn’t difficult and it was absolutely worth it! The sun came out just as we arrived at the top, giving us a clear view of the horizon. We could see the Palena and Rosselot Rivers, the Barros Arana mountain range, the Melimoyu Volcano and of course, the town of La Junta, which we explored the rest of the day. It’s small and quaint with lots of quirky little stores to kept us interested. We discovered the Greenhouses of Don Fito, where you can buy all kinds of fresh veggies and fruits – awesome! We practiced more Spanish with him and were rewarded in the afternoon when we found another wonder, the terrace at the Espacio y Tiempo Hotel (www.espacioytiempo.cl). How to describe it – the patio is beautiful with big tables

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crafted of native woods, comfy chairs and a clear roof that protects you from the rain but lets you feel immersed in the surroundings; the plants of the Patagonian rain forest; ferns and nalca and lots of trees. We sat down to relax and listen to the sound of the Patagonian forest, while we enjoyed an artisan beer called Kawiñ, made nearby. The brewer was actually in the hotel that night and after a few of his brews, we were able to understand his explanation that Kawiñ means a “festive gathering” in the language of the Mapuches; that’s precisely what we had: a fantastic happy hour complemented by remarkable stories from our new friends, the owners of the hotel, Alan Vásquez and Connie Palacios.

Days 4 – 5: Adventure in the Mirta, Cuarto and Quinto ValleysWe awoke to a beautiful sunny day, so we decided now was the time to bring out the bikes and start our adventures on “two wheels” through the Mirta, Cuarto and Quinto valleys. Before leaving, we bought supplies downtown, at the weekly Fair of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys. Speak-ing with some of the woman who bring their fresh vegetables to the fair, (they were very patient with us and our basic Spanish), we learned that they live and farm in the valleys we were planning to visit and we promised to try and visit during our exploration. The expedition was impressive! Nature surrounded us with rivers and forests everywhere, and we had incredible views of the Barros Arana range. We stopped to eat lunch at the Aillapán farm and decided to stay and camp there to have time to hike the trail to Aillapán Glacier. The trek was long, and a little bit hard to do with only the afternoon, but we all agreed it was an excellent decision. After four intense hours of hiking we arrived at the base of a towering hanging glacier, and best of all, we could enter an ice cave. The colors and formations of the ice were awesome! Upon returning to camp, we slid into our sleeping bags and slept like babies! In the morning we sipped mate with Señora Yohana at the farm and before parting ways with her, we bought fresh-baked bread and marmalade. Then, we contin-ued along our way. We had a picnic along the shores of Claro Solar Lake and returned to La Junta in the afternoon. It was a great experience that I recommend to everyone. One of the things we left pending and that I would have liked to have done, was to take the side road to the Cuarto and Quinto valleys, but maybe I will return in the future and attend the Festival of the Valleys that they hold each year on the first weekend of February.

Days 6 – 7: Route X-12 to the West, and the beaches of Raúl Marín BalmacedaThe landscapes of the Palena River are so beautiful we de-cided to take extra time exploring the area between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda. Seeing a sign in town provided us with the inspiration to begin the trip kayaking the Palena! Well, at least a part of the river, from La Junta to the rural inn, Mirador del Río (www.miradordelrio.cl), owned by

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Señora Francisca Solis. We arranged rental in town, from a company called Yagan Expeditions (in Facebook). In the afternoon, after thoroughly enjoying Señora Francisca’s spe-cialty, “Cazuela de Cordero con Luche”, (a stew made of lamb and vegetables and a special seaweed that they find in the fjords here), the folks from Yagan showed up with our truck and our stuff and recovered their kayaks. Then, Fran-cisca’s son, Ruben Gallardo, the owner of Entre Aguas (also on Facebook) took us to the river yet again for an excellent afternoon of fly-fishing. I didn’t catch a thing, but my Span-ish was slowly improving and my friend, Caroline, had much better luck, catching two different trout, at least 3 kilos each. Ruben surprised us all when he brought in a salmon almost weighing 15 kilos. No lie!!! The following day we continued toward Raul Marin along the road, but we detoured to visit the thermal baths of El Sauce (after all, there’s always time for a little pampering, right?). Ruben told us about them and they are incredible; super rustic and natural, set in the middle of the forest. And, they are so, so, so relaxing, that for a minute I thought it would be impossible to leave. But we har-nessed our will power because we wanted to spend the night in Raúl Marín. We arrived at the ramp just in time to catch the last ferry that crosses River Palena before lunch. In just 5 minutes and 2 km we were in Raúl Marín, a tiny beach town with sand-covered roads and a small collection of homes and businesses. We stayed in the Hostería Valle Del Palena that’s on the road named Las Hermanas (find them at Turismo Val-le del Palena in Facebook). It was great, clean and warm and near the beach.

Day 8: What a find! Raúl Marín BalmacedaFirst of all, I need to say that luck was with us. We awoke to rays of sunshine peeking through the window, begging us to get out and explore! And in Raul Marin, it’s so small that everything is at your fingertips. We quickly arrived at the beach to find our first surprise, a group of 3 dolphins playing around right in front of us. They left and returned, definitely looking for fish. We walked along the road to the trail-head for the Chucao hike, and entered a magical forest, bursting with ferns, vines, giant trees, mosses and flowers. We be-came lost in a green world! After a half hour, we saw a ray of sun entering our magical forest, and as we came closer, it grew stronger, calling us toward some form of doorway or portal. We stepped out of the forest into a completely different world, an untouched and wild beach, covered in wild strawberries and yellow flowers. I can’t say for sure that my camera captured all of the incredible contrasting colors, but I’m pretty pleased with the results, just the same. We re-turned to town walking amongst the dunes and ate delicious seafood, prepared by the restaurant in our hostería (inn), called Isla del Palena. After lunch, we made our way back to La Junta, enjoying views of the river, the Melimoyu Volcano and the farms along this route. We arrived just in time to have what they call, “onces”, the Chilean form of afternoon tea, at Mi Casita de Té (yep, also in Facebook), located just across from the Sendero de Montaña trail. We ate küchen

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and some amazing cakes, while we did our best to talk with the owner, Señora Eliana Cortes – we’re still not sure that she really understood us but, it wasn’t important; she’s truly a sweetheart and when people are that nice, language isn’t a barrier!

Day 9: Route X-13 East, from La Junta to Lago Verde, also known as “El Profe Patagón” (the Pata-gonian Professor) Today we explored the 77 km of Route X-13, which is the lateral road in the other direction; La Junta to Lago Verde. The road is a true work of art, winding through valleys and canyons along the Figueroa River. The road is an excellent “professor”; during our adventure we learned various lessons about Patagonia. For example, what is a tropero? From an information panel along the route, we read “A tropero is a person that rides horseback, herding their livestock (or live-stock of another person), from one place to another.” Before Route X-13 existed, it seems that this route was the trail used by “troperos” to get from Lago Verde to La Junta and the livestock markets. It took up to 15 days to cross the moun-tains, rivers and lakes! I remember thinking to myself, “well isn’t that a fascinating bit of history”. Ha! We hadn’t gotten back on the road for more than 5 minutes when we found ourselves amongst more than 50 cows, herded by 2 gauchos (I guess I should say, Troperos), and their dogs. We stopped and waited as they passed all around us, for what seemed to me, an eternity! Lesson 1 = Troperos are not a thing of the past. Lesson 2 = now I understand the saying they always told us there: “el que se apura pierde el tiempo”, (he that hurries loses time). So much for getting an early start on the day. Hahaha, well, the result is I have more than 100 great photos of an authentic Patagonian tropa.

Lago Verde is truly “criollo” (think Montana, Wyoming or other points west in the USA). It’s full of horses and gauchos; in fact, I’m sure it’s the yerba mate that gives the lake its turquoise color; not the glacier sediments, as they suggest. So we figured, what better then to partake in some local gaucho traditions? We arranged for a mouthwatering asa-do Patagón in the El Maitenal farm, owned by Don Lucho Soto, (09) 91566856. It was a celebration full of the things one cherishes most: love, family and friends, jokes and sto-ries, music, wine and dance. And of course, a TON of food. It finished late, after hours of fun-filled cultural exchange (haha), so we decided to stay in town in the El Mirador Hospedaje, owned by Señora Ida Vásquez, (09) 84769191. It definitely lived up to its recommendation of being a “BBB” (This is a Chilean saying, which stands for “bueno, bonito y barato”; translation? GPC, good, pretty and cheap). The hospitality and breakfast were impeccable.

Day 10: Traveling South towards the El Silencio RanchToday, we returned from Lago Verde, stopping briefly in La Junta for gas and a few last photos before continuing south

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along the Carretera Austral in search of a person we heard about in Lago Verde. His name? Don Santo Altamirano, bet-ter known as Don Tito, (Facebook: Santos Tito Altamirano Monje), who lives near the confluence of the Risopatrón & Esperanza Rivers. (Lest I forget: Lesson #3: “Don” is a sur-name, like “mister”, but it’s more respectful and only used for important or honorable people.) A visit to Don Tito is something YOU CANNOT MISS! We arrived at noon thinking it might be bad timing since it was almost lunchtime (1:00 pm in this part of Chile); but, despite the hour and the language barriers, Don Tito immediately invited us to his fogón (a type of refuge where parties and asados are shared) for mate and another lesson in Spanish, practicing our skills at understanding the many stories he shared of his life and adventures. We explored his farm via the El Silencio Trail, constructed by Don Tito using his talents as an explorer and bridge builder (ask him!). It’s a beautiful trail set amongst na-tive forest of arrayán, coigüe, tepa, ciprés de las Guaitecas and mañíos (I had no idea of these names but there were small signs marking each, thanks to Don Tito). The trail was bordered by the Risopatrón River, which I understand is a fly-fishing paradise. It was a tough choice whether to stay lon-ger but, when Don Tito told us about his dream to connect his trail with the Laguna Los Pumas trail in Queulat National Park (which borders his land), we decided we needed to see the Los Pumas Lagoon for ourselves. We kept going a few more kilometers to the Conaf camping area, near the trail-head, in the Angostura sector of the park. The camping is di-rectly across from the trail and it’s one of the only remaining documented habitats of Darwin’s famous and endangered frog. These little ones love the sun and while we enjoyed the sunset at our site, they accompanied us with a beautiful serenade.

Day 1 1: Trekking to the Los Pumas Lagoon, Queulat National ParkDefinitely, I’m in love! The places we visited in Aysén are A-W-E-S-O-M-E. In fact, several times, both joking and se-riously, we mentioned the desire to return the next year. Today we hiked a very difficult, but beautiful, trail. It took us five hours in total, most of it along a staircase etched into the mountain that we deemed “the everlasting thigh burner”. In spite of our pain, the route was gorgeous, with giant, dense evergreen rain forest, the smell of damp soil and the songs of native birds, like the hued-hued y chucao. Have to say, I was (and am) pretty proud that I not only was able to improve my Spanish during this trip, I was also able to distinguish different bird songs! When the stairs finally ended, the trail became more flat until we arrived at the Los Pumas Lagoon, which, in my opinion, is no lagoon. It’s pretty big – like 25 hectares; that’s a lake, no? We sipped mate on the beach and did a little bird watching (there were tons of migratory birds like quetru, avutarda y caiquen), before heading back. When we arrived back at the trail-head we were starved, so we headed the rest of the way to Puyuhuapi (1/2 hour), arriving just in time for lunch specials at Restaurante El Muelle (Facebook: Café –

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Restaurante “El Muelle” Puyuhuapi). The highlight for me was the side dish, “papas alemanas” (German potatoes), which were an awesome version of mashed potatoes made with onions, bacon and chili-powder = amazing!). We couldn’t resist having a second round of the local beer, Hopperdiet-zel; the first was extra delicious after our exercise from the morning. In the afternoon we visited the Termas del Ventis-quero (another awesome hot spring) to rest our bodies and spirits in the rejuvenating waters. In the evening we returned to town to talk to Adonis, at Experiencia Austral (www.experienciaustral.com), about the possibility of kayaking in the Puyuhuapi fjord the next day. Thankfully, Adonis spoke a little English so with everything planned, we walked around town a little, following a historic map that explains the town’s German heritage (in English – thanks for the break!). Imagine arriving here, just you and your 3 friends to build a new life in a place that didn’t have more than sea and impenetrable forests. How brave! We decided to investigate the German influence with our senses, enjoying a delicious Küchen in the cafe Los Mañíos del Queulat – tip: the coffee and nut strudel were also excellent. We stayed in a cabin at Hostal Augus-to Grosse (www.hostalaugustogrosse.cl), that was super cute and artisan. The owner, Fernando Salas, is a true master in carpentry and woodwork and his cabins reflect his passion and creativity.

Day 12: Exploration of the Puyuhuapi FjordsWe all agreed that the kayak trip in the Puyuhuapi fjords was a good choice. Adonis surprised us with a natural hot spring along the shores of the fjord, where we could leave our kayaks and enjoy the hot waters. The fjords are the best - you’re surrounded by forests along the shoreline and once you get away from the towns, you can see dolphins, hundreds of birds and even, sea lions. We came upon a group of sea lions sun bathing on the rocks that didn’t even flinch when we passed close by. I was pretty jealous of the awesome bed-room they had. I think I have a good clue where I want to explore on my next trip to Aysén. Who’s going to come with me to explore the fjords and channels?

For our last night in Puyuhuapi we decided to stay some-where else. Our cabin was excellent, but we had heard about Señora Luisa Ludwig and wanted the chance to meet her, as she is the daughter of Don Ernest Ludwig, one of the four original colonists of Puyuhuapi. She maintains the original family home as Casa Ludwig Bed and Breakfast (www.casa-ludwig.cl), giving guests the opportunity to sleep in a historic building that completely embodies the essence of this town. Luisa could speak with us fluently in English and we had a blast talking with her and hearing her stories about her fa-ther, how the village has changed and her childhood, growing up in the middle of nowhere at the end of the world. The Bed & Breakfast is an impressive place, a huge wooden house built almost entirely by hand, with really comfy and artsy de-cor and little bits of history in every corner.

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Day 13: In search of the City of Césares, Queulat National ParkSeñora Luisa told us how wonderful it is to live surrounded by Queulat National Park, about the trails and everything we could see. She was so convincing that we wanted to see everything and woke up early in order to get in the fullest day of trekking possible. We were hoping to have time to walk along trails of the Ventisquero Colgante (Hanging Gla-cier) sector, the waterfall of (Salto de) Padre García and the trail to the Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest). At 10 am we were already at the Ventisquero Colgante area, where we decided to hike a short trail (600 m) to the Tém-panos Lagoon, crossing Ventisqueros River, on a suspended bridge. The views of the glacier from the lake was the first gift of many that day. We had to leave the Sendero Sobre la Morrena (Moraine Trail) for the next trip because it takes 3 - 4 hours. Everyone told us it is wonderful, but we want-ed to see the Bosque Encantado, so we kept going. We did make a brief pit stop at the Sendero de Padre García, locat-ed along the road just before you make the winding climb up the Queulat pass. The trail is super short, a descent of about 150 m that takes you to a beautiful waterfall, approximately 30 m, which is named for Padre García, because it is one of the places he “discovered” during his 1776 explorations of the area, when he was following the Queulat River, looking for the City of the Césares, a mythical city of gold. In the end, neither of us found the city, but I believe that the value of this nature is worth far more than any treasure. Continuing along the Carretera Austral south, we climbed a series of intense, cutback curves, leading to the saddle of the mountain pass. Just before descending, on the right hand side of the road, we found the trail-head for the Bosque Encantado hike. We arrived around 1 pm and the hike took us around 3 - 4 hours. This was my favorite trail of them all! It takes you through a dense forest for the first 2 km until reaching the Cascadas River. Then, you climb along the trail to the Gnomes Lagoon, which is a glacial lagoon with an incredible turquoise color. The lagoon is filled with icebergs and surrounded by rocky walls, above which hangs an impressive glacier. We continued south to Villa Amengual, to stop for groceries and a visit to their great Artisan Center; yes - several of us purchased sweaters, scarves and hats. I found a beautiful mate, which of course I couldn’t resist. We finished this epic day in the camp-ing area of the Lago Las Torres National Reserve.

Day 14: A little fly-fishing and a well-deserved rest, thanks to Lago Las TorresAfter waking up late and sharing a few mates along the shoreline, we thought we would make homemade tortas fritas (fried breads kind of like donuts, but not sweet). We had eaten them during our asado and in restaurants several times during our trip and finally, Caroline had asked one of the waitresses to give us the recipe. Even though we were following a recipe scribbled in Spanish, they turned out great.

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Easy and delicious! A tasty way to start off the day. After this delectable activity, I looked for two strong trees to hang my hammock and take a nap, (how wonderful it was not to be in the car). Everyone else headed off to look for Seño-ra Mirta, the camping manager, to coordinate some fishing. The lake-gods were in a good mood, and everybody caught fish; they released most of them in keeping with the spirit of “catch and release”; however, no one could resist keep-ing a few trout for lunch (keeping within the legal limits, of course). In the afternoon I escaped to ride my bike south a bit on the Carretera Austral (a pleasure in this area, because it’s freshly paved). I wanted a little me time to reflect on all of my experiences and events from the trip. During these two weeks, I met so many exciting people, hiked so many different trails, rivers, lakes, f jords, mountains and of course, glaciers! I learned from others’ perspectives, realities and tra-ditions. I tried new flavors and local products made from hand. What a different reality from my own, living in a city of almost 5.5 million habitants!

Day 15: One last adventure – Río Cisnes Estancia and an off-road border crossingWe awoke relatively early to begin our trip along the lateral road, X-25, that follows the course of the Cisnes River to the town of La Tapera, and beyond, all the way to Argentina. It’s impressive how the landscapes change along this drive. We started through an area full of humid and green rain forests and soon the scene started to evolve, as we entered more open forests, with lots of trees called notros, blooming an intense red. Then, within another hour, we began to see fewer and fewer trees and, after passing the tiny town of Villa La Tapera, we crossed into the endless plains of the Patago-nia pampas. It fascinated me! It was like an endless sea, but made of grasses called coiron (think tumbleweeds, but living – not tumbling). The wind was so strong, it crossed the prairies in waves. We saw thou-

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sands of sheep that day and we also came across several new animals, including a fox and an armadillo; it was an environ-ment completely different than the rest of our trip. We drove across the pampas for around 2 hours before we arrived at the installations of the Río Cisnes Estancia. Historically, this estancia was the third most important ranch in the region; now it’s probably the most important remaining estancia. The whole time we had driven across the pampa, we were crossing their lands! We registered at the office and then visited some of the historic buildings, like the Cuero Bayo Shearing Barn. Every December and January, for four weeks, they shear more than 60,000 sheep in this barn. I could hard-ly imagine it – things were so quiet and peaceful the day we were there.

It was time to cross into Argentina and begin our trip home. The plan: Follow Route 40 to Bariloche and return to Puerto Montt via the Cardenal Samoré border crossing in Osorno, for our long flights home. We left the Estancia in route for the microscopic Río Frías – Apeleg border crossing and a pile of bureaucratic forms, inspections and paperwork – headed into Argentina, following estancia roads that were at best, rustic, and at worst, pure pampa, until we finally reached Route 40 and pavement. Definitely made for an exciting last adventure. But before we left, right before the border in fact, I glanced up and saw an enormous condor, solo, magnificent, floating through the air no more than 15 m from our car. We stopped immediately to check him out and fill up any last memory that existed on our camera cards. Little by little he began to rise, higher and higher, until we lost him from sight. How generous Aysén; not only did Patagonia provide us in-credible days, it sent us off with the perfect parting gift. I’m made a silent promise to return, soon!

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In this article we will introduce you to La Junta, the main town of the Palena – Queulat Area and the center of operations for exploring dozens of lakes, rivers and hiking trails. Surprises abound in this town built on friendship and hospitality. As you make your way south down the Car-retera Austral, the first town you reach in Aysén, is La Junta. With 1,300+ residents, La Junta is the biggest town of the Palena – Queulat Area; one of the larger in the Re-gion. It’s known as “the meeting place”, for its proximity to the confluence of the Rosselot and Palena rivers and also because it was THE meeting place for early settlers. Today, La Junta continues to offer visitors great en-counters, friendships, hospitality, and stories, as you’ll soon discover.

Colonization of the zone began in the final years of the 1930s, when settlers began ven-turing following the Palena upriver, from the coast. They encountered the space they’d been seeking to develop productive farm-lands and began to establish homesteads within the surrounding valleys. It was a slow process, but today, the La Junta community is known for its productive farms and a com-munity that continues to grow and evolve.

The town was established around 1963, in the same area where families had gathered for years for social activities, sporting events and public meetings. It was the natural place to meet, a big pampa at the confluence of the rivers, but since everyone lived in their farms in the surrounding valleys, it didn’t really become a population center until settlers developed the dream of establish-ing a local school for their children, ending the need to travel to Puyuhuapi or Puerto Marin Balmaceda. Thanks to the determina-tion of these settlers and the commitment of a professor, who was attracted to the area for ranching, agreed to stay and teach. The school was established in 1970, with 15 stu-dents. It was the turning point for La Junta; settlers soon began building homes nearby and a sense of community quickly evolved.

The school marked the beginning of decades of cooperation and community development in La Junta, during which the town built an

COUNT ON GREAT

ENCOUNTERS IN LA JUNTA

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aerodrome, the first stores, the Catholic Church, electrical infrastructure and even local television and radio. The community worked hard to obtain scarce public resourc-es and services, constructing a rich heritage of friendship and cooperation; the founda-tions of why it’s a great place to start your visit to the Palena – Queulat Area.

Today La Junta offers a great base for your adventures, welcoming you home each eve-ning after long days of hiking around and touring in the area. From here you can refuel both your vehicles and your spirits, before heading off each day to explore nearby Lago Verde, the Mirta, Cuarto and Quinto Valleys, Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Risopatrón Lake, Rosselot Lake, Mount Barros Arana, Melimoyu Volcano, and of course, the fan-tastic Palena River.

A short hike on the Sendero de Montaña Trail located alongside the Carretera Austral, in front of the town, offers a great way to orient yourself and have a good look around. After climbing 600 meters through native Patagonian evergreen forest vegetation like quilas, tepúes, coigües y chilcos, you’ll reach a lookout point with a great view of the whole area. On a clear day you can observe the Palena and Rosselot rivers, the Barros Arana mountain range, the Melimoyu Volcano and, of course, the town of La Junta. Perfect place for getting your bearings, right?

Afterwards, choose from a variety of activ-ities and excursions, many of which are de-tailed in the rest of this chapter. La Junta of-fers a wide range of accommodations, from simple camping to hotels with all the ame-nities and gourmet meals. You’ll have plenty of choices, but definitely, book in advance, because in the middle of the summer you’re likely to find everything occupied.

And La Junta is full of surprises that make it much more than a base for accommodations and refueling! Here, you can find great organ-ic, homegrown and local products including some of the most delicious fruits, vegeta-bles and cheeses in the Region, all produced nearby, on local farms. Stock up on delicious goodies to cook in your cabin or take with you for picnics – we recommend the Farm-

Looking for good food? Don’t leave without trying the cheeses of Quesos La Junta, the handcrafted beers of Kawiñ and the delicious dishes of Mi Casita de Te and Hotel de Montaña Espacio y Tiempo.

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er’s Market for the Women Farmers of the Valleys (Monday and Friday, 10.00 - 12.00), and also the Greenhouses of Don Fito, open every day and located alongside the Carret-era Austral at the entrance of town.

A great way to wind up a day in La Junta is on the terrace of Hotel de Montaña Espacio y Tiempo. You’ll feel like you’re living a dream! No matter what the weather, you can com-fortably relax outside enjoying the birds singing from the forest, the warmth of the afternoon sun or the gentle rhythms of the rain falling on the transparent roof. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a great pisco sour or a local artisan brew, like Kawiñ, brewed right in town. Don’t miss the chance to dine on one of their gourmet specialties, which fea-ture many local products of the zone. The gastronomy is only rivaled by the remarkable stories of La Junta and its history shared by owners, Alan Vásquez and Connie Palacios.

OVERVIEW » Type of activity: A day in La Junta, with a bit of hiking, visits to local shops, markets and restaurants to try out the fresh local products of the zone. » Start: Sendero de Montaña Trail located alongside the Carretera Austral, in front of the town » End: The terrace of Hotel de Mon-taña, Espacio y Tiempo » Distance: 2 – 5 km, depending on your preferences. » Duration: We suggest a minimum stay of 2 - 5 days. » Seasonality: Year round. » Considerations: La Junta is the base for everything: excursions and ac-tivities, local products, lodging, and fuel, but take note, there is no ATM! » Reservations: There is a range of lodging available in La Junta, but we suggest you book early.


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In La Junta you’ll have the unforgettable opportunity to visit with the awesome ladies of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys! Every Friday, year round, and Mondays during the summer, in the community center of La Junta, a group of the most powerful, talented and funny women of Patagonia, gathers to hold their own farmer’s market. Things go fast! Don’t miss the chance to enjoy their farm-fresh vegetables, marmalades, chili sauce, eggs and other delights.Colonization traditionally meant that the man of the family left home for months, or even years, in search for new lands. Once he established his claim, he brought his wife and children. Without doubt, settling these claims meant years of hard work, isolation and learning to live in a place where there were no services, no supplies and very little contact with neighbors! The men held the role as provider and head of the family, but, the women were in charge of tasks that were equally challenging: adjusting their families to this new and formidable world.

Women settlers were left in charge of turn-ing the temporary structures of land claims into the farmhouses, gardens and orchards that sprinkle the area of Palena – Queulat today. The winters were hard and the sum-mers were short; thus, the challenge was enormous. Nevertheless, it was the woman’s job to establish gardens and orchards, essen-tial for obtaining the necessary food for daily meals. To make food stores last longer and go further, women made jams, conserves and sauces. They recycled their seeds from year to year and eventually, they developed a tradition of meeting and swapping seeds and techniques with their neighbors. Over time, their gardens produced more and more, and a few years ago, a group of 15 of these wom-en who live in the valleys near La Junta, de-cided to take a BIG step forward and convert their home gardening and canning work into a source of additional income for their fami-lies. They created the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys, and you have the op-portunity to meet them, learn their stories

MEET THE WOMEN OF THE AGRICULTURAL

CLUB OF THE VALLEYS


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and shop for their delicious goodies at the Farmer’s Market they’ve created in La Junta.

The club has a lot of triumphs to celebrate; they have earned grants and special support from Rural Assistance Programs, they offi-cially established their Farmer’s Market with the Municipal Government, their greenhous-es and gardens have continued to grow and to prosper. Nevertheless, when you ask club members, they’ll tell you that the most im-portant outcome of their efforts has been the contributions they have been able to make to their families. With the extra in-come the Market has provided, they have been able to realize important goals like better education for their children, improve-

ments for their homes, or the purchase of a vehicle. Their husbands have shown a lot of pride and respect for their efforts and now, it’s common to see these guys taking time away from their own work to help with their wives activities, gardens and greenhouses.

If you’re curious about the gauchos and gauchas of Patagonia, take advantage of the opportunity to visit the Market in La Junta and talk with these fearless women farmers.

You’ll definitely leave with a sack of delicious goodies. What’s more, you’ll learn more about the ingenuity, strength, wit and de-termination of the people of this area, and you’ll also learn lots of secrets of sustainable agriculture. And many of these women will welcome a visit to their farms to tour their gardens if you want to learn more.

The members of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys live in La Junta and the

valleys in the surrounding areas. In La Junta, members include Nélida Rogel, an expert on homemade jams, and also the Señoras Mirta Barría, María Altamirano and Miriam Gal-lardo. Señora Brenda Vivar lives very close to La Junta, on the Carretera Austral north, beside the Arrieros del Sur Livestock Fair. Several members live along Route X-12, the Heritage Route between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda. Señora Francisca Solis is the President of the group and also the own-er of the Rural Inn, Mirador del Río, which is located at kilometer 6 of Route X-12. In addition to selling in the Farmer’s Market, Francisca offers her vegetables in the Panad-ería de Rubén, in La Junta, which is owned by her son. Señora Mercedes Cardenas lives in few kilometers further west, at km 10, where she has several greenhouses, including a new one she and her husband have recently built. Señoras Sandra Cárdenas and Soledad Ville-gas, have their farms on the other side of the Palena River, about halfway between La Jun-ta and Raul Marin. Each week, they go to the Market and back, crossing the river by boat!

Heading in the other direction from La Junta, along Route X-13, you can tour the Cuar-to, Quinto y Mirta valleys and visit Señoras Rosa Sánchez and Mireya Rosas, who are neighbors and have their greenhouses and


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» Type of Activity: Visit to a local Farmer’s Market » Start: La Junta » End: La Junta » Distance: The Market is located in the Community Center on Anto-nio Varas Street, a few steps from the Plaza of La Junta » Duration: The Market is open Fri-day’s year round and Mondays, during the summer months, from 10.00 until 12.00. » Seasonality: Year round » Considerations: Arrive early for the best selection and don’t be sur-prised if you receive an invitation to visit them of the member’s farms during your days in the area. » Reservations: Not required, how-ever, if you want more information about the Market or the Club, you can contact the President, Francis-ca Solis, in her rural Inn, Mirador del Río, Route X-12, Km 6, cell: (9) 61776894, email: [email protected].

OVERVIEW

gardens in the sector of the Cuarto Valley and River. In the Mirta Valley nearby, you’ll find the farms of Señoras Gladys Casanova and Yohana Aillapán and can hike the Ail-lapán Trail built by her family, which leads to a beautiful glacier. In the same sector, in the vicinity of Claro Solar Lake, you’ll find the farms of señoras Perta Bashma, María Rive-ra and Julia San Martín.


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The valleys of the Cuarto, Quinto and Mirta rivers are secrets of La Junta that deserve to be revealed. First for their beautiful and un-spoiled landscapes, and second for the large amount of outdoor activities you can do. These valleys are ideal for hiking, horseback riding, fly fishing, kayaking, cycling or simply, for unleashing the photographer inside you that’s dying to get out.

To begin this tour, head 12 km north of La Junta on the Carretera Austral and veer to the right where the wooden sign indicates the entrance to the Mirta Valley (Route X-11). You’ll soon catch your first glimps-es of the star for the rest of the route: the spectacular and always snowy mountainous range, Barros Arana, which you will have the pleasure of viewing from a number of differ-ent angles.

At kilometer 22 you’ll find yourself in front of the “El Tramitado” farm, owned by the Aillapán family, one of the many settlers who inhabit these stunning and hidden valleys. Here, there is a great 8 km hiking trail that crosses their land. It was built by the family with the support of Conaf, the National For-est Service. Sendero Aillapán travels through vast Patagonian forest following along the shores of a crystal clear river that pours from a large waterfall. After 4 kilometers of hiking, the trail reaches a glacial lagoon and the foot of an imposing hanging glacier. Depending on ice conditions at the time, it may be possible to enter the ice caverns, for close-up views of the different forms and colors of the ice, which range the spectrum from transpar-ent to white, turquoise and blue. Be sure to bring your camera because there is little doubt that you will want to try and capture their beauty. And if you don’t, not to wor-

WIND THROUGH THE UNEXPLORED

VALLEYS OF LA JUNTA

Be among the few who have traveled this photogenic route winding through the unknown Mirta, Cuarto and Quinto valleys. The valleys are home to one of the most authentic traditional festivals of the area and several of the ingenious women farmers of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys. There are also great opportunities for trekking, fishing and horseback riding.


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ry, you will never forget the experience. The trekking is pretty intense, so we suggest you camp in the Aillapán farm before or after, to be able to have time and energy for the oth-er sectors of these amazing valleys.

Along the route, you’ll have excellent views of the Claro Solar Lake, where there is great fishing and small boat rental or charter. Sev-eral of the farmers offer access to the lake, such as Doña Julia San Martin, a member of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys, who can facilitate access to the lake shore, fresh vegetables for a picnic lunch and boat rides in the sector.

Around 31.5 kilometers, you will see an in-tersection. Turning right leads you to Route X-13, which joins La Junta with Lago Verde; turning left takes you into the Cuarto and Quinto valleys. If you have time, we recom-mend you take the latter, and spend a bit more time exploring these superb valleys.

At the end of this road you will reach the Cuarto River, and, at least for now, it will

» The first weekend of February every year, in the Cuarto y Quinto valleys, settlers celebrate traditional customs and heritage in the Festival of the Valleys. There are typical foods and drinks, rodeo events, traditional games and regional music. Plan your visit to coincide if you want to join the festivities. » If you are interested in a horseback ride through the valleys, contact: Duberlis Rosas, Turismo Rural Los Valles, Valle Cuarto S/N, Sector Río Cuarto; (067) 2314367; [email protected]. » If you love to fish, there are various guides who offer excursions in the zone, like Rubén Gallardo, Entre Aguas Excursiones, Route X-12 to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Km 6; (09) 97863826 - 84388285; [email protected]; [email protected].

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

be time to park your car or bike, and start to walk. Approximately a hundred meters to the right you’ll see two giant trunks that cross the river and a wire to help you firm your steps: that is the bridge that you’re going to have to traverse! As crazy as that sounds, the residents of this sector cross this bridge every day, so go ahead and get a firm footing and slowly cross to the other side. There are some rumors that perhaps


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this rustic bridge will soon be replaced by a more modern one that can carry vehicles, so if by the time of your visit, the trunks and the wire have disappeared, well…unfortunately, you have lost a good story to tell back home.

Señoras Rosa Sanchez and Mireya Roses, members of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys, live and work in their greenhouses and gardens, just on the other side of this bridge. Every Monday and Friday they head out across the bridge with their vegetables and fresh eggs and marmalades, on their way to their club’s Farmer’s Market in La Junta. Neither are working in tourism, but if you are interested in your farming and gardening wisdom, you can visit them and their orchards and greenhouses and take home some fresh, organic goodies. Of course, if you’re concerned about how to get back across the bridge with your purchase, ask them to accompany you, because they are experts in crossing and will be happy to help you.

Back at the car, return toward the intersec-tion that you crossed a while ago and this time stay straight, following the route toward X-13. You’ll cross over the Quinto River using a very narrow (but new) suspension bridge. Proceed with caution and follow the curvy road to its crossing with Route X -13 that leads between Lago Verde and La Junta. To head back to La Junta you should turn right (west) and proceed another 5 kilometers.

» Activity Type: Scenic vehicle or bicycle route, with options for trekking, fishing, camping and nav-igation. » Start: La Junta » End: La Junta » Distance: 51 Km » Duration: 3 - 10 hours to multiple days, depending on the mode of transport you choose and the ac-tivities you do. » Seasonality: Year Round » Special Considerations: Drive with caution, especially in the curves and slopes, because the road is very narrow. If you are going to do the trekking through the Aillapán Trail, it is recommended that you camp in the valley to have time to enjoy the entire route. » Reservations: Not required, but if you are interested in tours or ser-vices, you may contact:• Bruno Díaz of Yagan Expe-

ditions - La Junta: 5 de abril, #350; (09) 84599708, (067) 2314386, (067) 2314380; [email protected]

• Don José Aillapán - Aillapán Trail, “El Tramitado” Farm, lo-cated in Km 22 of the Mirta Valley Route.

OVERVIEW


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Whether you paddle as a small group any time of the year or in the annual festival, the Ruta del Palena, with other travelers, locals, celebrities and reporters, paddling down the mighty Palena River from La Junta, to its outtake in the fjords near Raúl Marín Bal-maceda is a once in a lifetime expedition.

The landscapes that accompany you on this voyage are both beautiful and awe inspiring. As you paddle down river your biggest chal-lenge will be to maneuver the eddies and currents that rise in your course, but imag-ine the first brave adventurers who dared to paddle this river like you, but moving upward, against the current, with huge hopes of find-ing good lands to settle with their families.

This way of transport was not only import-ant during the settlement of the valleys around La Junta, it remained critical for the connection of settlers with the outside world for the better part of 8 decades! The river substituted as the main road in and out of the central valleys, absolutely critical for movement of supplies like livestock, building materials and food. Navigating the river in chatas was hard, strenuous, dangerous work, and several settlers lost their lives in the wa-ters of the Palena. But, their work and sac-rifices were a key factor for communication and development during the first decades of settlement in the region. In fact, river trans-portation remained quite common until 2009, when the road between the interior of La Junta and the coast of Raúl Marín Bal-maceda was finally connected.

PADDLE THE PALENA RIVER

ALONG THE FORMER

ROUTE OF THE “CHATAS”

The first settlers who arrived in La Junta made their way upriver, in row boats called “chatas”, rowing their way against the current of the Palena River to reach the interior. Retrace their route, but this time traveling down river (we promise that it is much easier and fun!) And if you want to do it with 100+ other fans of the water, join in on the annual event, the Ruta del Palena (Route of the Palena), that takes place in February.


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Remembering that importance and cele-brating that heritage, were the inspirations for the realization of the first Ruta del Pale-na festival, in 2010, and it’s been growing in popularity ever since. This grand event, which takes place the first weekend in Feb-ruary of each year, includes a two-day, group 80 km descent of the Palena River, from La Junta to Raúl Marín Balmaceda. There is camping mid-way and a big party at the end.

The event starts near La Junta at the bridge over the Rosselot River, which joins the Pale-

If you prefer fishing your way down the river, several guides that offer the service, including Rubén Gallardo of Entre Aguas Excursions. Address: Route X-12 to Raúl Marín Balmace-da, Km 6. Contacto: (09) 97863826 - 84388285; [email protected].

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

na in a few kilometers more. Participants can descend in canoe, kayak, raft, cataraft or row boat, or any other option of human propul-sion. The river has a tranquil, average flow, with some rapids and quite a few logs in the first 5 kilometers. Puerto Bonito is about the half-way mark of the route. It’s uninhabited, but has some thermal baths that you can access within a 30 minute walk. It is a great place to end the first day.

The second day, the river continues at an increasingly slow rhythm, meandering be-tween the thick forests, and yielding a spec-tacular view of the Melimoyu Volcano and


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If you can’t participate in the annual Ruta del Palena event, you can de-scend in kayak, raft or boat at any time of the year, through one of the operators in La Junta. There are var-ious options, some for half or full day and others for multiple days. For ex-ample from La Junta, Yagan Expedi-tions, offers a half-day river descent for 2 - 4 people. Address: 5 de Abril, 350, La Junta. (09) 84599708 or you can write to [email protected].

TRAVELERS’ TIPS » Activity Type: Navigating the Palena River. » Start: La Junta » End: Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda » Distance: The complete descent is about 80 km. » Duration: 2 days, 1 night. » Seasonality: You can paddle the riv-er year round. The annual Ruta del Palena event is the first weekend of February. » Special Considerations: Spaces for the Ruta del Palena event are lim-ited - reserve in advance. » Reservations: You can communi-cate through the page of the event on Facebook: Descenso Colectivo Ruta del Palena, or write to [email protected].

OVERVIEW

its gigantic glacier. The final 10 Km stretch changes in intensity due to the influence of the tides and the sea winds. Finishing up in Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda, is much easi-er via the Garrao Channel, easily identifiable by a bridge, which detours participants into the peaceful Piti Palena Fjord, where it’s common to run into Austral Dolphins. Pun-ta Palena, to the northwest of Raúl Marín Balmaceda, offers a great place for camping afterwards, with beautiful semi-protected sandy beaches.

On average you’ll paddle about 6 hours per day during the two-day event (did someone say biceps?). In addition to great scenery, great people and great fun, the physical exer-cise has another reward. The organizers of the Ruta del Palena reason that the best way to recover strength after a few hard days of physical effort is with a giant feast, starring a

pair of Aysén gastronomic traditions: Asado al Palo (think Spit-roasted lamb) and Curan-to (think Patagonian shellfish bake). Arriving in Raul Marin, it’s time to leave the boats be-hind and celebrate the heritage of this great river, old and new friends, and in general, being part of an amazing occasion like this.


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It was the summer of 1894, and the Chilean Government had commissioned two expe-ditions in the area of Baja Palena. Hans Stef-fen was in charge of an exploration of the territory with the mission to deliver technical background data to support Chile’s position in the boundary dispute with Argentina that emerged after the treaty of 1881. Elias Rosselot, the State appointed Inspector of Colonization of the Area, was charged with the responsibility of determining the best overland route for future roads between the coast and the interior. He was told to de-velop this recommendation in collaboration with Steffen, but both had different positions: Steffen intended to make the road along the north shore, as it had fewer tributaries feed-ing the Palena River (thus less bridges and engineering costs); while, Rosselot defended the idea of routing the road along the south bank of the Palena, because the valley was wider and situated farther from the river; thus there was more space.

The debate was put on the back burner for 114 long years, until finally, the road connect-ing La Junta with Raúl Marín Balmaceda was completed in 2009. And time confirmed the vision of Rosselot; engineers constructed the road following the southern shore of the Palena River. Two years later (2010), the road was declared a Heritage Route, for its potential to highlight the fascinating and dif-ficult history of colonization in this sector, in addition to allow visitors to enjoy its incred-ible beauty. You can explore this route in vehicle or by bike, and will encounter several great scenic overlooks of the Palena River, waterfalls, historic farmhouses, volcanoes and diverse flora that becomes increasingly lush and dense as the adventure progresses

TRAVEL ROSSELOT’S HISTORIC

ROUTE FROM THE VALLEYS TO THE SEA

The Heritage Route between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda offers great views of the Palena River, evergreen forests, streams, waterfalls and historic farmhouses of the pioneers who first settled the area. Meander, take pictures, visit natural hot springs, learn a little history and end this adventure with a barefoot walk in the sand on the beaches of the Island of the Lions.


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toward the coast. Highlights of the Heritage Route include:

Km 0 - La Junta, the “pueblo of encounters” and the beginning of the Heritage Route. We’ve already told you of La Junta’s role as a primary meeting place for area settlers. It’s the largest town of the Palena - Queulat area, with more than 1,300 inhabitants and all the basic services (and not so basic, be-cause it really is possible to find almost ev-erything) that you need for your trip. Long before there were roads, the Palena River was the major transport artery of the sec-tor, complemented by some trails leading toward the villages of the interior, like Lago Verde, Chaiten, Puyuhuapi and some of the more remote valleys. La Junta was known in those years as Palena Medio and was the meeting place of everything: the rivers, trails and of course, the livestock being moved from farms and estancias to regional ports and markets. One of the ports was located in Bajo Palena, now known as Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda.

Km 5.6 Overlook that marks the confluence of the Palena and Rosselot Rivers. From La Junta, take Route X-12 to the west, following the route that Rosselot proposed more than a century ago. You will find several overlooks with spectacular views of the Palena River, a critical resource for the development of this area, since it served as the first means of transport between the coastal zone and the interior valleys, providing a viable option for pioneers to move construction materials, animals and other supplies, during the years

In kilometer 12 you will encounter the El Sauce Ranch, owned by pioneer Il-defonso Berger Wiehoff, also known as Don Foncho. As a young child, in the summer of 1959, Don Foncho sailed with his father from Puerto Montt to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, to es-tablish this ranch after rowing up river for five days. With an ax in hand they established their claim in these lands; which, today are home to he and his wife, their three sons, their livestock and the El Sauce thermal baths. The hot springs are located 5 km further west of the house. The entrance is along the X-12 Heritage Route and from there, you drive 3 km along a farm road before arriving at the baths, which consist of a bath house with bathrooms, changing rooms, an area for barbecuing and a small path lead-ing into a forested glade where you will find the thermal baths, made more comfortable by cypress decking and a floor of river pebbles. The hot springs are managed by Claudio Berger ((09) 94542711; [email protected]), one of Don Foncho’s sons. During the summer months of January and Feb-ruary, the gate is open from 9:30 to 20:30, Monday to Sunday. During the rest of the year, you can call from La Junta to arrange access.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS


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of the colonization, from the late 1930s, and forward. We recommend that you park your cars or bikes and walk to get a good view of the confluence. From here, you can imagine settlers trying to paddling upstream in make-shift wooden boats, called chatas. By the time they reached this confluence, they had likely been battling the river for weeks. This sector of the route borders meadows and fields and you’ll likely see livestock grazing; settlers had to work for years, even lifetimes, to prepare these fields for livestock. Almost the whole area was marshlands and forests!

Km 25 – Palena River Valley Overlook. This is a good vantage point to take in the full scale of the river, revealing its width, power-ful flow and striking colors. The surrounding

valley is densely filled with native vegetation.

Km 39.7 - Melimoyu Volcano Overlook. If you are graced with a clear day, this is your place for the best views of the Melimoyu Volcano, an imposing cone covered with snow and glaciers. The literal translation of its mapuche name is “Four udders” (Meli = four, Moyu = udder), because there are four cones rising up inside the crater. It is one of Patagonia’s active volcanoes and the protag-onist of several myths and legends. Some attribute special energies, others say it is the doorway to the center of the Earth, and still others have linked it to the elusive, “City of the Caesars”. Whether you subscribe to any (or all) of these myths is your choice; nev-ertheless, the natural beauty of this place is

undeniable.

Km 40 - Correntoso River. Power, strength and color that merits a stop to really enjoy. There’s a small area for parking near the overlook that you shouldn’t pass by. The flow of this river makes it easy to understand why, during the days of the pioneers, its con-vergence with the Palena River produced huge nightmares for the vulnerable vessels that were frequently confronted with trees and other obstacles that the Correntoso had dragged along its course.

Km 46.2 - Historic River Port. From this overlook, you will have an unbeatable view of the Palena River and one of the ancient ports used by settlers. The ports along this route evolved spontaneously in places with

adequate depth and clear access to the shores, factors critical for safe loading and off-loading.

Km 48.1 - Cascada River. An impressive waterfall, for its strength and color. Winter visitors will be treated to a wonderful roar from its rapids. In the summer the flow de-creases markedly, but abundant rain maintain its beautiful presence.

Km 51.3 - Mirador of Rincón Bay. This is the best sector to see meandering curves of the Palena River as it makes its way amongst the dense vegetation. Panoramic Photo guaran-teed.

Km 63 - Palena River Ferry. Here, you’ll cross the Palena River by ferry, so as to ac-


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» Activity Type: Scenic car or bike route. » Start: La Junta. » End: Raúl Marín Balmaceda. » Distance: 73 Km. » Duration: 3 hours. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: When planning your trip, take into ac-count the hours of ferry opera-tion (from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 14:00 to 17:30, Monday to Sun-day). Refuel in La Junta because there are no services in the route or in Raúl Marín Balmaceda. Drive with caution as the route is narrow and curvy in places. » Reservations. Self-guided activity, does not require reservations.

OVERVIEWcess the island of Raúl Marín Balmaceda for-merly known as the Island of the Lions. To-day, only 5 minutes separate the island from the port on the other side, but historically, the trip required several hours and clearly, did not allow for vehicle movement. The addition of this ferry has changed the lives of local inhabitants forever.

Km 73 - Island of the Lions, a.k.a. Puerto Bajo Palena, a.k.a. Raúl Marín Balmaceda. One of the oldest colonies of the Aysén Re-gion, founded on January 4, 1889, with the name of, Island of the Lions. This first colony failed due to the distances that separated the population and the places for grazing (It wasn’t called Island of Lions for nothing!), and due to lack of support from the State. In later years, small scale colonization attempts

continued, mainly impulsed by chilotes, who migrated from the island of Chiloé. It was not until the 1930’s that the colony was officially founded as the hamlet of Puerto Bajo Pale-na, a milestone for the sector. Puerto Bajo Palena was used as the base for the explo-ration and colonization of the interior valley, including the area of La Junta. The village changed names again in 1957 to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, in honor of a Senator who died in Santiago, after a sudden and violent heart attack during a meeting in which he had just spoken of the area.


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Cazuela is a one-dish meal; one of the most traditional dishes of Chilean cuisine. Its name is believed to derive from the large pot in which all the ingredients are cooked. The origin of cazuela is vague; its precise history difficult to pinpoint, although some believe that the dish originated as a result of an im-provised lunch offered to Admiral Manuel Blanco Encalada, a Vice-Admiral in the Chil-ean Navy and Chile’s first President, albeit, provisional. But this dish has a much longer history relating to the Olla Podrida, a Spanish dish which was introduced in Chile by the Spanish conquerors. Each Region has their favorite variations depending on the ingredi-ents predominant in the area, and of course, if you ask any Chilean, they’ll tell you that the version their mom makes is the best, with family secrets they could never reveal! The common element that makes a cazuela is a rich broth, served with whole of meat or chicken, accompanied by large cuts of veg-etables such as potatoes, cabbage, pumpkin or carrots, rice, and fresh culinary herbs. Served hot, with fresh baked breads and garden salads, cazuelas are perfect for lunch or dinner and a delicious way to learn more about local flavors and traditions.

That said, let us introduce you to the special version of cazuela that Señora Francisca Solis prepares for her family and guests. Francis-ca, or Pancha, as her friends call her, is the president of the Women’s Agricultural Club of the Valleys and the owner of the rural inn, Mirador del Río (www.miradordelrio.cl), located 6 kilometers from La Junta along the shores of the Palena River. Her Cazuela de Cordero con Luche is both a gastronomic and a cultural treasure! Part of its magic lies in the ingredients: Luche (porphyra colum-bina), also known as sea lettuce, which is a

PREPARE THIS TRADITIONAL PATAGONIAN

CAZUELA THAT COMBINES THE

FLAVORS OF THE VALLEYS AND THE SEA

The essence of a place is often experienced through its traditional flavors and recipes, as is definitely the case with this recipe for Cazuela de Cordero con Luche (Lamb and Seaweed Stew). It’s a favorite in this part of Aysén, where many settlers have the sea in their heritage and ranching as their life’s work. Learn more with this great recipe!


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nutritious algae native to the fjords of Aysén and much of the coast of Chile. Luche is one of the star ingredients in Señora Fran-cisca’s recipe, a tribute to her mother, who migrated to Aysén from Chiloe Island, where most gastronomy is based on the generosity of the sea. Another key ingredient is fresh vegetables, harvested directly from Pancha’s greenhouses and gardens. And the meat component of this Cazuela is taken from the spine of a lamb, which, of course, was raised on Pancha’s farm. Why the spine? One of the deepest traditions of Aysén, involves the core values of using every part of an animal that is sacrificed; nothing goes to waste.

You definitely want to hang out in the kitch-en when this recipe is being prepared, espe-cially so you don’t miss out on the glorious moment in which the luche begins to release its aroma and for an instant, the sea seems to sweep up the Palena River and into the very kitchen of Señora Pancha. And of course, you can also prepare your own Cazuela, us-ing the ingredients we suggest here, or those of your own community – the important fac-tor is freshness and an affection for the place and the plate.

After enjoying this delicious dish, we suggest that you make arrangements with Francisca’s son, Ruben Gallardo, owner of Entre Aguas Excursiones, to organize a tour of the Palena River and an excellent afternoon of fly fishing.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

» Activity Type: Gastronomy. Prepa-ration of a lamb with luche stew (Cazuela) that captures the es-sence of the Palena – Queulat area. » Start: The rural inn, Mirador del Río, near La Junta, or in your own kitchen. » End: That depends on you, but we recommend you stay a night or two in the inn, under the pretext of a prolonged, post-lunch siesta. » Distance: 6 km from La Junta, along Route X-12, to Raúl Marín Balmaceda. » Duration: The preparation takes 1.5 hours, approximately. » Special Considerations: If you want to visit the inn and try this delicious recipe, call at least one day prior, so that Señora Francisca can have the ingredients ready! » Reservations: Necessary. Contact: (09) 97863826 - 84388285; [email protected]; www.miradordelrio.cl

OVERVIEW


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» Ingredients• 6 cups of water• 6 vertebrae of lamb• 50 Grams of luche, re-hydrated• 3 cloves of garlic• 1 medium onion• 1/2 teaspoon oregano• 2 Carrots or a 1/4of a pumpkin,

sliced in cubes• 6 Potatoes, sliced in cubes• 1/2 Cup white rice• 1/4 Cup vegetable oil• Salt, chopped cilantro, shallots or

green onions, to taste (served at the table as garnishes)

» PreparationThe first thing you need to do is soak the luche overnight to rehydrate. After at least 12 hours in the water, it is time to wash the leaves in running water, to remove sand and little pebbles. Set aside and begin to work with the assembly of your dish in a large stew pot.

RECIPE FOR CAZUELA DE CORDERO CON LUCHE - 6 SERVINGS

Sauté the onion, garlic and carrot in the vegetable oil with a little oregano and salt. Divide the lamb vertebrae, and add to the pot. Cover with 6 cups of water, then, incorporate the luche and salt to taste, and simmer over a low heat. En-joy the aromas, which will be beginning to release!

After 45 minutes, it is time to add the potatoes and carrots, or squash. Wait another 15 minutes and incorporate the rice. Let your Cazuela simmer until the rice is ready, and remove the pot from the heat.

We know that you and your friends are probably starving by now, but let your cazuela sit for about 10 minutes, so that the flavors blend to perfection. Serve in big bowls, taking care to put a portion of each ingredient in each. Everyone can garnish their own, with a bit of chopped cilantro, shallots, or green onions, ac-cording to taste. Enjoy!


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Few know that this small town in reality is an island, surrounded by a mix of salt and sea waters. The Palena River and its delta surrounds the island on one side, the Piti-palena Fjord and Garrao channel on another, and the Corcovado Gulf border the rest. For many years, Raúl Marín was the best kept se-cret in Patagonia, as you could only access its shores by boat or light aircraft. In 2009, the road connecting Raúl Marín and La Junta was finally completed, and now, you can reach the island via a 90 minute road trip and a 5 minute ferry crossing.

Raúl Marín was the point of entry for colo-nization of the northern zone of the Palena – Queulat Area of Aysén. The first attempts date back to the last decade of the nine-teenth century with the establishment of the Island of the Lions Colony, likely named in honor of the puma who habituated the zone between 1888 and 1889. This first colony failed due to the distances that separated the population and the places for grazing and due to lack of support from the State, but attempts continued. Colonization was slow, mainly impulsed by chilotes, who migrated from the island of Chiloé, seeking territories for timber extraction. It was not until the 1930’s that the colony was officially founded as the hamlet of Puerto Bajo Palena, which served as a gateway for the exploration and colonization of the interior valleys.

Today, the village of Raúl Marín Balmaceda has approximately 400 inhabitants and all of the basic services, including police, a rural health post, a school and radio, an airstrip, small stores and businesses, lodging and restaurants. There are no gas stations or banking services, so plan accordingly.

Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda is a small village, nestled at the mouth of the Palena River which, little by little, is revealing itself to travelers who are enchanted to discover its many charms; lush forests, wide beaches, sand dunes, and abundant marine fauna. Walk around awhile and take in the natural beauty or take a boat tour out into the channels to see dolphins, sea lions and birds.

DISCOVER A HIDDEN

TREASURE: RAÚL MARÍN BALMACEDA


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You will notice that the layout of the village is distinct from others you will visit: houses scattered amongst sandy streets that seem to be laid out in no particular order, making it easy to get lost even though the entire town only consists of a few blocks. The houses border the forest and the dunes and the pace of life is relaxed and slow; at times it seems deserted, but if it’s hot, you’re sure to find half of the village on one of the many beaches, because if there is something that abounds here, it’s long coastlines where one can take a dip.

Raúl Marín is the ideal place to explore on foot, because everything is nearby: for-est, beach, dunes and rivers. Just grab your sneakers, a bottle of water and snacks, and head out to explore the island. The whole center of the island is a forest of lumas, ar-rayanes (myrtle), canelos, tepas and coigües, among other species, and home to hundreds of varieties of birds. If you decide to venture in, be careful; it is easy to get lost and you can spend a lot of time looking for a way out. We suggest sticking to the established trails.

The beach is the backyard of the village. You can walk for hours (remember to watch the tides), accompanied by different birds, including marine species like the lile duck, the duckbill jergon, cormorants, kingfishers

and hualas, and migratory birds, including bandurrias and queltehues, as well as forest dwellers, like chucao and hued-hued. It is a walk filled with relaxation and silence, and you can spend all the time you want, because it is only a couple of meters away from the village.

If you want a closer look at the channels, f jords and rivers surrounding Raúl Marín, you can also explore by boat or kayak. Tide changes and wind are important factors to take into account, so be flexible with your planning and check local conditions and fore-casts.

We recommend a trip to Las Hermanas Is-lands which are visible in the distance from the beach. Here several hundreds of sea lions gather, and it’s easy to distinguish the enormous males, who are always surround-ed by their harem of females and calves. The coexistence group seems peaceful at first glance, sleeping one against the other amongst the rocks and sea breezes, but ev-ery once in a while the peace is temporarily interrupted by a brief explosion of action, especially if another male gets too close to the harem, a cause of fierce fights.

During the trip, keep watch seaward, be-cause in this area there is an abundance of


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austral dolphins, known in this part of Chile as toninas. It is usual to see them eating in groups of three to five, and with a little luck, you’ll be treated to a show featuring their undisputed talents as surfers, playing in the wake of the boat, making great jumps and pirouettes. With a lot more luck, you’ll be treated to the much less common arrival of blue whales in the sector or, at least see their huge sprays of water along the horizon. Al-ways keep your camera ready for action!

» If you are interested in a guided boat or kayak tour in the surroundings of Raúl Marín, you can contact Patri-cio Merino, Kawelyek Expeditions; (09) 75429056; www.kawelyek.cl; [email protected]. » The ecolodge Fundo Los Leones is a short 3 km outside of town, (www.fundolosleones.cl). Here, Mauro and Mery will welcome you as if you are part of their family. Their beauti-ful mini cabins are set in an isolated setting, overlooking the Pitipalena Fjord and you can watch incredible sunrises from your bed or explore their own huge and solitary beach. » If you want to learn more about the fish and shellfish collected by area fishermen, which is the main point of economic activity of the people, head to the town pier. Most of the population is engaged in fishing, thus it’s quite common to have the op-portunity to watch the coming and going of boats and talk to local fish-ermen about their work. » If you are interested in scientific re-search, you can coordinate a visit to the Añihué private reserve, (www.anihuereserve.com), created with the objective to preserve the unique biodiversity of this complex system of fjords. The Reserve can only be accessed by boat.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

» Activity Type: Exploration of Raúl Marín Balmaceda. » Start: Center of the village. » End: The beach of your choice. » Distance: Variable. » Duration: One to several days. » Special Considerations: We sug-gest sticking to the established trails through the forest because it is easy to get lost. Keep in mind that the beaches of Raúl Marín are isolated and primitive, mean-ing that unlike those of popular resorts, you’re generally on your own. (Awesome!) Be aware of tide changes, winds and weather factors. Carry sunscreen, drinking water, sunglasses and hats, in ad-dition to a snack and your camera. » Reservations: Not required.

OVERVIEW


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If you are looking for a little quiet time in na-ture, the Chucao Trail in Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda is the perfect option. You can easily walk this trail solo, but, if you’d like the company of a guide to share information on the flora and history of the area, stop into the office of the Tourism and Commerce Association in the center of town. The trail-head is beside the school, along the road that follows the waterfront. It is marked by sig-nage and used year round by locals, which collectively maintain it in good condition. It’s a simple trail, so grab a day-pack, some wa-ter, sunscreen and snacks and head to the forest for a hike that will allow you to feel, hear and think.

The first section of the trail crosses dense native forest located at the edge of town. Entering the forest, you’ll soon be enveloped in greens and browns; trees towering above and around, vines and bushes, ferns, tree trunks, and roots. It’s almost overwhelm-ing, surrounding you with millions of hues, scents and textures. You will be surrounded by enormous coigües, with hanging lichens like old man’s beard (usnea barbata), lumas, canelos and hundreds of different types of ferns, among other native flora. The old man’s beard is a lichen of whitish hues that grows from the trees throughout Aysén, an indicator of air purity; the further away you are from the civilization, the more abundant and healthy it grows. If you’re lucky and qui-et you may be rewarded with the chance to observe the chucao, a small bird with a vivid orange chest and a beautiful song; the name-sake for this trail.

After a bit, you’ll reach an opening in the forest which deposits you onto the dunes, and the contrasting panoramic of beaches, sea, and wide-open skies. Wild strawber-

You’ve left the stress of the city far behind and the moment couldn’t be more perfect to breathe in the smell of the forest and walk along the shores of the sea, the sand on your feet, and the wind on your face. The rhythmic noise of the waves accompanies you as you make your way through this beautiful trail, full of surprises and pristine nature.

FOLLOW THE CHUCAO

TRAIL TO THE SEA IN RAÚL

MARÍN


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ries grow rampant in this area and nearby there is a rustic overlook where you’ll have a panoramic view of the coast, the Gulf of Corcovado, and in the distance, Las Tres Hermanas, a string of small islands where live sea lions and cormorants abound. Con-tinue along the vague trail to the access road and head left to the beach, which is called La Boca and is the only continental shore of Aysén where you can see the open sea. As you walk along the sand, you’ll feel the sea breezes on your face. There are no life-guards or bathing areas on this beach, but, if you dare, dip your toes in the water and feel the adrenaline that is sure to hit you – it’s freezing!

At the southern end of the beach you will find the Vivo (Living) Cliffs, so named for their foliage. You can return to town via the shoreline and a vehicular path located at the edge of the forest. The forest will be to your right and the Pitipalena Fjord to the left. Across the fjord, you’ll spot a lighthouse and in the distance, the mountains with their ev-ergreen forests. The fjord is home to many birds, so it is an ideal place for observation and some good photos. Keep a watchful eye on the sea, because when you least expect, austral dol-phins, or toninas, as they are locally known, will delight you with their playful swirl-

The village cemetery is one of the oldest in the area, with tombs of the settlers from the period of the first colonization efforts in this area. It is a good place to explore the history of the sector and observe the names and dates.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS » Activity Type: Hiking through the forests and beaches of Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda. » Start: The trail entrance beside the trail along the road that borders the waterfront. » End: The pier sector. » Distance: 7.3 Km » Duration: 2 - 4 hours. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: An easy hike along established trails, ac-cess roads and the beach. The beach is natural and there are no established swimming areas or life-guards. Carry water and snacks, a map and appropriate clothing. » Reservations: Self-guided activity.

OVERVIEW

ing, jumps and leaps, near the shore.

The circuit ends in the sector of the pier, and if you are interested, there is a brief side trail that leads to the historic cemetery for Raúl Marín leading off from the right side of the road. Before returning to town, stop once more to take in your surroundings, breathe deep and feel the satisfaction of being in a place so remote, far away from the large buildings and the bustle of the crowded beaches in other parts of the world. For sure, it will be a hike to remember forever.


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Until 1992, there were no roads connecting the small town of Lago Verde with the rest of the Region of Aysén; thus, residents of this small border town depended on trails, small aircraft or their proximity to the roads of Ar-gentina, to access regional services and com-merce. Connecting the town with La Junta presented significant engineering challenges, in part because of the need to chart a course between so many lakes, rivers and streams. Imagine how complicated the tropeo was (movement of animals) from the estancias and farms of Lago Verde to the livestock markets in La Junta and Puyuhuapi! Ranch hands rode up to 15 days, just to get to La Junta, bordering interconnected systems of lakes, rivers and streams, and finally cross-ing the headwaters of the Rosselot River on hand-crafted wooden rafts, animals and all!

Now things are much easier! You can reach Lago Verde in a little over an hour and a half traveling along beautiful Route X-13, and much of the livestock leaves on truck. Of course, if you are a fisherman, you’re likely to delay several hours or even days within this 70 kilometer stretch; the variety and quality of these waters are sufficient to seduce just about anyone who is a fan of rods, reels and flies. World-renowned Route X-13 is a true corridor of lodges and waters where fanat-ics of fly-fishing pay millions and millions of pesos to have the privilege of coming for a few days and testing their skills and luck. If you are looking for this type of specialized experience, you can choose between several different styles of service, accommodations and packages, including: Lodge El Ensueño (www.ensuenolodge.cl), Lodge Chucao Rosselot (www.chucaolodge.com), Lodge El Patagón (www.southernchilexp.com), el Martín Pescador Lodge (www.martin-

HEAD TO LAGO VERDE FOR GREAT

FISHING AND LOTS MORE!

Until a few years ago, the rivers and lakes between La Junta and Lago Verde were known for the huge challenge they presented for settlers in the area, but today, they’ve reached a new fame. Fans of recreational fishing come from all over the world to enjoy the incredible variety of challenges and conditions present in this sector of the Palena – Queulat Area.


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use of dry flies and nymphs, especially in the muddy areas and shallows. You will also encounter several sections with downed trees and roots; the use of streamers here will attract the fish that await in the pools these obstruc-tions create.

u Quinto River: A brief detour from route X-13 takes you to the Quinto River, located in the valley of the same name. Here you can enjoy a great fish-ing from the shore, using dry flies and nymphs.

u Claro Solar Lake: Located in the Mirta Valley, a few kilometers off route X-13, this lake presents good opportunities for both fly fishing and trolling. In both cases, the use of deep streamers are recommended.

u Rosselot Lake: The inflow areas for the two tributaries that feed this Lake, the Bordali and Figueroa Rivers, are ideal sectors for fishing from the shore. If you have boat, you can find several areas with downed trees and rock cliffs, ideal places for deep-dwelling trout.

u Rosselot River: This River is a corri-dor for trout moving between Rossel-ot Lake and the Palena River. Look for Brown Trout in pools and trees root systems and Rainbow Trout in the muddy areas and swirls.

u Figueroa River: Near the town of Lago Verde you’ll find another trout corri-dor, this time connecting the Verde and Rosselot Lakes. In the quieter sections,

pescadorfishing.com) and Patagonia Base camp Lodge (www.patagonian-base-camp.com).

If you don’t want to invest the resources for a specialized fly-fishing itinerary, or if you just want to spend a day or two fishing, there are many options you can explore on your own or you can hire an area guide who know the secrets of every river and lake and can help you find the hiding spots for wild Brown and Rainbow Trout, ranging in size between 30 and 50 cm and the specific areas and times of year for finding Atlantic and Chinook Salmon.

Here are some tips to start you on your quest:

u Palena River: You can fish from a boat or from shore in several sections of this river, given the large number of tribu-taries and changing conditions it pres-ents. There are sections suitable for the


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like the convergence with Rosselot Lake, there are excellent fishing spots. Dry flies are most commonly used, but you can also try other flies and stream-ers for deep areas.

u Pico River: Close to the border with Argentina, this river is perfect for shore-fishing fans and for those who like the challenges of river flows and backwaters. The Maitenal Fishing Camp ((09) 91566856; [email protected]), is a great place to base for these waters. You’ll find excellent access, good guiding and if you want, you can finish your day with a fantastic Asado al Palo.

u Lago Verde: Fishing in the turquoise waters of this lake is an entertaining experience and there are tons of pho-tography opportunities if the fish aren’t biting! Its waters feed the Figueroa River which in turn, feed into Rosselot Lake. It is a great lake for shore fishing and if you have access to a boat, there is excellent deep water fly-fishing and trolling.

» You need a fishing license to fish in Chile. It is a simple process, you can do on-line (www.ser-napesca.cl). There are also laws that regulate recreational fishing, intended to protect the environ-ment and insure the preserva-tion of natural resources. These include daily limits for the num-ber of fish you can keep as well as minimum sizes. Nevertheless, in the Aysén Region, catch and release is the recommended practice. » Help stop the spread of Did-ymo! The didymo algae (Did-ymosperia geminata) is highly invasive and has contaminated rivers throughout the world, in-cluding Patagonia and the Region of Aysén. To stop its spread it is important that once you’ve fin-ished fishing each day, or if you change bodies of water, to re-move, wash and dry your wad-ers, lines, boots, flies and other equipment. Find out more at www.didymo.cl.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS


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» Activity Type: Recreational fishing. » Start: La Junta » End: Lago Verde or La Junta » Duration: 1 - 7 days. » Seasonality: The fishing season ex-tends from November to May. » Special Considerations: For fishing these waters you’ll want one or two 3 meter, six weight rods; one with a deep line and the other with floating line. The spool needs to have be-tween 75 - 125 m of backing, 10 - 12 kilos of capacity, and lines with mea-sures 5, 6, 7 and/or 8. Leaders need to be size 5X, and of 3 meters with 5X and 6X tippet. Some recommen-dations for dry flies include: Dragon-fly (blue/olive, sizes 4 and 6 - January until March); Bomber (black, gray and orange, 2 and 4); Chernobyl ants (6); Elk Hair Caddis (coffee and gray, 12 and 14); Midge (18 and 22) and Midge pupa (black and white, 20 and 22). Recommended Nymphs: Hare’s ear (10 and 14); Pheasant tail (10 and 14); Gold bead nymph (10 and 14) and the Stonefly nymph (black, 2 and 6). Sinking flies (streamers) include: Wooly Bugger (black and olive, 2 and 4); Bunny Leech (black and olive, 2 and 4); and Muddler (2 and 4). » Reservations: In the sector of La Jun-ta - Lago Verde there are a variety of operators and lodges that pro-vide navigation and guided fly fishing.

OVERVIEWSome include equipment rental. • Claudio Soto - Lago Verde, Los

Pioneros 294; (09) 91566856; claudiosotosol is@hotmail .com

• Lago Negro Lodge - Fundo la Meseta, Route X13, km 12, on the way to Lago Verde; (09) 83557157; [email protected]; Facebook: Lago Negro Lodge

• Espacio Y Tiempo - Hotel De Montaña - La Junta, Carret-era Austral 399; (067) 2314141; [email protected]; www.espacioytiempo.cl

• Javier Villegas Excursions - La Jun-ta, Moraleda s/n; (067) 2314162 - (09) 77049853, [email protected]; Facebook: Francis-co Javier Villegas Mancilla

• Entre Aguas Excursions – Route X-12 to Raúl Marín Balmaceda, Km 6; (09) 97863826; [email protected]; www.mi-radordelrio.cl

• Patagonian Basecamp - La Junta, Carretera Austral, Km 310; (09) 79996873; [email protected]; www.pa-tagonian-basecamp.com

• Vientos del Sur - La Junta, Morale-da 12; (09) 87598900; [email protected]

• Turismo Ruta de los Pioneros - La Junta; (067) 2314308; [email protected]; Facebook: Fran-cisco Javier Villegas Mancilla


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Don Cristian Solis, son of pioneer Don Edu-ardo Solis, born and raised in the town of Lago Verde, shares his perspective of the traditions relating to Asado al palo: “When our grandfathers and great-grandfathers came to settle Patagonia, they quickly dis-covered that working these lands, amongst the mountainous terrain and harsh cli-mate, required a lot of help. The easiest and fastest way to tackle the hard work of settling a farm in Aysén, was to join hands with our family and neighbors, and work as a team. Today, it’s a tradition in the Re-gion; for the big jobs, like branding, shear-ing, and ear-tagging, we all join in, moving from farm to farm, working together, to get the work done. And on each farm, when we finish our work, we celebrate with a typi-cal Patagonian barbecue, which we call an asado al palo. So, what’s on the menu? I thought you’d never ask! Spit roasted lambs, tortas fritas with fresh pebre, two or three different kinds of salads, boiled potatoes, and of course, red wine! During early spring in Patagonia, in the latter days of September, the first lambs are born. As soon as they reach a weight of 11 Km, ev-eryone in Patagonia begins to long for an opportunity to enjoy a delicious Patagonian asado al palo. During the summer months, the demand for lambs rises 300%, especial-ly in December and January, when families come together to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s. A traditional, Patagonian-style asado al palo, is the essential feast!”

Here are just some of don Cristian’s secrets for preparing a typical Patagonian asado al palo of roasted lamb for 13 - 15 people. So, grab your best gaucho boina che, all hands on deck!

First step: Get a lamb and the rest of the ingredients » 1 Patagonian lamb, of between 13-15 Kilos

SUMMER IN PATAGONIA IS SYNONYMOUS WITH ASADO

AL PALO

It is almost unthinkable to travel through Patagonia without tasting the delicious traditional way of barbecuing lamb, called asado al palo. Here, we share the secrets of its preparation and its importance in the Aysén culture


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» 1 corked wine bottle of brine, (salmuera). Rinse an empty wine bottle and fill it with hot water. Add 1 bulb of chopped garlic, 3 tablespoons of salt, 2 tablespoons of crushed oregano, 1 tablespoon of pep-per and 1 tablespoon of Aliño Completo. You can find this spice mix in any super-market or food shop. Next, carve out four “corners” on your cork so it looks like an “X”, and a tiny bit of liquid can get through when you turn the bottle upside down. You’ll use your salmuera to mari-nate the lamb as it cooks and as a sauce when serving. » 5 kg locally grown potatoes and 1 bulb of garlic. It’s better if you can see the actual field where these were grown from the quincho where you will be eating. » A bunch of coriander, cut fresh, from the greenhouse, in back of the kitchen. » 1/2 kg lemons and 1 Tablespoon Salt (these can come from Santiago or the ECA) » Salads: You’ll want at least 2 or 3 options. Begin with something simple, like fresh lettuce from the greenhouse, mixed with lemon, vegetable oil, and salt. Moving on, the options run the culinary spectrum, depending on what’s fresh and ripe, and what you’re in the mood for. In Patagonia we like to eat salads made from grated vegetables, like carrots and beets, and sliced vegetables, like cucumbers and to-matoes. » Tortas fritas and Chilean Pebre (Perfect with Asados – Look for the recipe in this guide!) » Chilean red wine: merlot, cabernet or carmenere. Must be served in a “bota”

(a leather canteen). Pick up several liters, and don’t bother with bottles. Instead, fill your bota with our everyday boxed wine; it’s cheaper, and for some reason, the leather from the bota really brings out great flavor from the boxed wine. » At least one Accordion and 1 Guitar.

Second step (the most difficult): butchering the lambIt is recommended that you perform this task at least 9 hours before roasting it, so that the meat dries and becomes cold. This will make it much easier to put the lamb on the asador and sear its meat, so that once put over the fire, it keeps a stronger flavor. Slaughtering a lamb is one of the oldest ac-tivities in the history of humanity; it has exist-ed since biblical times. If done properly and humanely, no one should suffer! PLEASE, if you do not know how to humanely slaugh-ter an animal, do not pick your Patagonian vacation as the time to experiment! Find a gaucho and let him, or her, show you how it’s done. When it’s time, make sure you have a well-sharpened knife and a flat-bot-tomed Pyrex glass dish, containing chopped coriander, a tablespoon of salt, and 4 lemon halves. Hold the snout of the lamb with your left hand. Support yourself and the lamb, by placing your right knee on the ground and your left knee pressing slightly against the base of the lamb’s shoulder and ribs. This will help you to maintain a grip on the animal. Hold the knife with your right hand and place it on the curve of the jaw. Insert it firmly and quickly, until it reaches, and cuts, the jugular vein. That’s it. Let the blood empty into the Pyrex dish, making sure not to spill. Once you have collected enough blood, you will


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be ready to start preparing lamb “Ñachi”. This is a typical Patagonian dish, or maybe, it’s more of a custom; but, whatever it is, you make it with freshly clotted blood. You prepare Ñachi while the blood is still in its liquid state, mixing it with coriander and salt. To “cook” the preparation, you add lemon juice, which adds acid. Let the dish rest for no longer than 10 minutes. Once the blood has clotted, it forms a gelatin consistency and can be sliced into cubes, put onto a dish and served, to brave souls, while the lamb is be-ing roasted. A side note: Eating Ñachi, espe-cially for novices, has the tendency to make you REALLY sleepy, due to its high Iron con-tent. Don’t sit too near the fire!

Finish draining the blood from the meat, and then you’ll begin to prepare the lamb for the asador. Remove the skin, beginning with the legs, chest and genitalia. Make a slit to open these areas and remove the skin away from the flesh with both fists. Hang the lamb from its shank, so the flesh does not come in contact with the ground. Once the lamb has been hung, remove the rest of the skin. To make sure the skin does not tear, leaving fat stuck to the flesh, slit the skin a bit with your knife, and pull down to remove it. With your lamb hanging from the shank, it is easy to open its center cavity and remove the guts. Start by making a slit with the knife, from the abdomen down to the genitalia. Remove everything inside, except the kidneys, which are stuck behind the ribs. Cut the head off, slice along the ribs, part way through, so that you can open them wide, and leave the lamb hanging, so that the meat cools.

Third Step: Attach the lamb to the asadorOnce the meat is cool, put the lamb on a table, with the open ribs facing up. An asa-dor is a tool made of two metal bars. The longer of the two is approximately 170 cm in height, and the shorter, which is equipped with small hooks on the ends, is around 90 cm. The two bars are assembled in the form of a cross. In order to make sure that the lamb will cook evenly, you’ll want to trim the thicker areas of flesh, so that all of the meat is around the same thickness. Both the forequarters and hindquarters should be opened, so that the meat cooks properly, without leaving any raw parts. You should also cut from the third rib, down to the last one. Then, turn the ribs so that they face down and thin the shoulders. Once all your cuts are ready, you should put the lamb on the asador, by placing and plunging one of the


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ends of the long bar, between the spine and the skin, so that it comes out again, around the neck. Hook both quarters to the ends of the horizontal bar, so that the lamb stays open. Then, tie the lamb to the asador us-ing a piece of wire to prevent the meat from slipping off, while it is being roasted. Put a horizontal stake across the lamb toward the bottom of the asador, in order to keep the shoulders open and another, to keep the ribs wide. Once all stakes have been placed and the lamb has been put on the asador, you are ready for the fire.

Fourth step: Finally, it’s time to roast the lamb.It is very important to light your fire about 30 minutes in advance, so that it produces the embers that provide the heat you need, to cook the lamb evenly. Avoid roasting the lamb over direct flames; you will burn it and dry it out! Start with the lamb ribs, facing the fire, and plunge the asador into the ground, approximately 70 cm from the fire. Tilt the top of the asador toward the fire, at an an-gle of around 60° or 70°. Make sure you constantly check on the fire temperature by putting your hand as close as possible to the side of the lamb facing the fire. Hold your hand in that position for 3 seconds, if pos-sible. It should feel hot but not burn you. If that’s the case, the fire is at an adequate temperature. Keep in mind that the rib-side is the thinnest part of the lamb, which means that it is the most delicate and the one that burns most easily. You should keep constant watch on the fire, making sure that the ribs do not turn brown.

Another of the challenges for the person in charge of the roasting, is making certain that both quarters cook evenly, as well as the shoulders. To monitor this, put your hand behind the lamb from time to time: when you feel warmth coming through the meat, the lamb is ready to be turned around. Re-move the asador, and rotate it so that the other side is near the fire. Reaffirm it into the ground. When you turn the lamb over, you should start boiling the potatoes, so that both are ready, in unison. The meat cooks faster after the lamb has been turned over, since most of the work has already been done. During the whole cooking process, make sure you stoke the fire regularly, in or-der to distribute heat homogeneously, with

the embers. The whole cooking process takes 3 to 4 hours, depending on the size of the lamb and the quality of the fire.

Last step: Enjoy your Asado Patagón! Like many other parts of the world, the bar-becuing is typically left to the guys, who hang out by the fire and “guy talk”. Meanwhile, the gals share yerba mate or wine, catching up on all the news, and prepare the salads and other accompaniments. But, when the lamb is ready, everybody comes together. In fact, the camaraderie built up among the guests of this feast, during the cooking time, is an essential ingredient for a Patagonian asado al palo. To help set the tone, there are always some gauchos playing accordion and guitar, couples dancing to the sound of chamamé or ranchera Patagona, and the generous sharing of wine, from a “bota”. The side dishes, like potatoes, salads, tortas fritas, and pebre, are usually passed around family-style, or served from a buffet; and, the person in charge of roasting cuts the meat, making sure the por-tions suffice for everyone.

» What are Quinchos? Well, with the crazy weather of Patagonia, we needed an option for bar-becuing inside. So, we invented quinchos. They are sorts of rustic party-shacks, often round, complete with an indoor fire pit!

TRAVELERS’ TIPS


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» Activity Type: Preparation of a lamb asado al palo, typical gastronomy of the area. » Start: At a nearby farm where you can obtain a lamb. » End: Celebrating with great food, ac-cordions, guitars, and dance. » Duration: 3 to 4 hours. » Seasonality: Mainly in the summer; however, other types of asados can be prepared in other seasons (Beef, Fish, etc.). » Considerations: The most important thing is to make sure that the meat does not burn or dry out. » Reservations: The list of gauchos and gauchas that offer preparations of lamb asado in the Aysén Region is ex-tensive. Here are some of the best:• Camping Maitenal - Lago Verde:

Pioneros s/n; (067) 2573180; [email protected]

• Fogón La Esperanza - La Junta: El Silencio Farm. You will find the en-trance to this farm 25 km north Puyuhuapi, on the left side of the Carretera Austral, and must enter the narrow gravel entrance and cross over the bridge, so as to ap-proach this great Quincho, called a Fogón. There is only cell signal in a few places in their farm, so to coordinate your visit, send a text message to Señora Maglene’ cell phone (09) 98321365 or visit her daughter Marioli in the Casa May-orga Grocery Store in Puyuhuapi.

• Quincho Aquelarre - Puer-to Aysén: Sector Pangal Valley s/n; Km 8, Pasarela Sector; (09) 94798741; [email protected]; www.casaturis-morural.cl

• Quincho La Pancha - Puerto

OVERVIEWAysén: Río De Los Palos Sector; Road to Laguna Los Palos s/n; Km 7; (09) 98878572; [email protected]; www.ecoturis-molapancha.cl

• Restaurant Histórico Ricer - Coy-haique: Horn N°48; (067) 2232920; www.historicoricer.wordpress.com

• Estancia Punta Del Monte – Coyhai-que Alto: Coyhaique Offices, Bilbao 398; (067) 2231601; [email protected]; www.punta-delmonte.cl

• Quincho Don Santiago – Lago Frio: 23 km south of Coyhaique, in the El Fraile and Frio Lake Sector; (09) 87869820; (067) 2524929; [email protected]; www.casaturismorural.cl

• Baqueanos de la Patagonia - Car-retera Austral Ruta 7, Cerro Castil-lo s/n; (09) 87352346 – 78988550; [email protected]; www.baqueanosdelapa-tagonia.cl

• Tourism San Lorenzo - Cochrane: The San Lorenzo Ranch is located 1.5 hours from Cochrane, at the base of Cerro San Lorenzo. Coordi-nate your reservation with Don Luis before arriving, by HF radio frequen-cies 3.789 and 4.580; (067) 2522326; (09) 95619963 - 75618719; [email protected]

• Refugio y Camping Río Ñadis - Co-chrane: Sector Ñadis River, Carrat-era Austral, at the bridge over the Barrancoso River, detour (9 km) to the refuge, HF radio frequencies 3.789 and 4.580; (09) 81851625; [email protected]

• Entre Patagones - Villa O’Higgins: Carretera Austral; Casa 1, North Ac-cess; (067) 2431810; (09) 66215046; [email protected]; www.entrepatagones.cl


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It is an ambitious challenge to fully under-stand the culture and ecosystems of the Region of Aysén. The landscapes change drastically from the seas to the pampas, the climate is a mixture of everything (often at the same time), and there are so many quirky traditions and customs! Thankfully, there are some special places that allow you to ex-perience the essence of the nature, culture and history of the Region; the fogón, which is similar to a quincho, or an indoor barbe-cue house, at the El Silencio Ranch is one of these amazing places. It has been built by hand, using native woods and materials and is filled with relics and decor that reflect the gaucho style. The person responsible for this amazing atmosphere is the charismatic host Don Santos “Tito” Altamirano. Amongst many other talents, Don Tito is an incredible musician and storyteller who loves to share Patagonian anecdotes and rounds of yerba mate, while sitting around his giant open fire-place, keeping a watchful eye on an Asado al Palo, cooking in the embers.

Don Tito has plenty of stories to liven up an entire evening. He’ll tell you of gauchos and troperos, working in the Palena – Queulat area before there were roads to move live-stock to the Puyuhuapi ports. During this time, he was around fourteen, and worked as a boat operator, moving men and live-stock across Risopatrón Lake. During those years he developed a taste for exploring; one which served him well later on when he accompanied Senator Antonio Horvath and his crew in the development of the route of the Carretera Austral. Don Tito continues to open up routes, but now for travelers to explore hiking.

EXPERIENCE GAUCHO STYLE HOSPITALITY

AT THE EL SILENCIO

RANCH

When you cross the bridge over the Risopatrón River and visit the El Silencio Ranch, you will be surrounded by the life work of a true gaucho, Don Santos Altamirano: his hand built rustic Fogón, his music and stories, his delicious Asados and smoked meats and his latest creation, the El Silencio trail, a beautiful hike that winds between ancient forests and the Risopatrón River.


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How to work off the extra weight you’ll gain eating the delicious food at the Silencio Ranch?First thing, after you eat, ask Don Tito to get the music going! He’s likely to appear in full gaucho array, with goatskin chaps, a poncho and large brimmed hat, ready to begin the fun. Don Tito is an accomplished composer and guitarist, with a repertoire of songs that tell of his life and adventures in Patagonia. Perhaps his most famous song is that which tells the story of how he designed and en-gineered the bridge crossing the Risopatrón River to his house; a feat which earned him recognition from many, including the Presi-dent of Chile! Don Tito’s music will quickly have you dancing and working away all the calories you’ve eaten during your asado.

Don Tito’s latest engineering work is the new 5 kilometer hiking trail, Sendero El Si-lencio, through a corner of his enormous farm. This trail winds through forests of ar-rayanes, coigües, tepas, ciprés de las guaite-cas y mañíos. It borders the west side of the Risopatrón River (excellent fly-fishing wa-ters) and is equipped with bridges, walkways and signage of excellent quality. Everything

» Activity Type: Trekking and rural life. » Start: The Silencio Ranch. » End: The Silencio Ranch. » Distance: You will find the entrance to this farm 25 km north Puyuhua-pi, on the left side of the Carretera Austral, and must enter the narrow gravel entrance and cross over the bridge, so as to approach this great Quincho, called a Fogón. » Duration: 1 – 2 days. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: The tele-phone signal is not very good in the ranch and many times don Tito and his wife, Señora Maglene are working at their many chores, somewhere on their farm. You can try your luck and show up without prior notice or you can contact their daughter Marioli who works in the Casa Mayorga Grocery Store in Puyuhuapi and she will help you to communicate. » Reservations: There is only cell sig-nal in a few places in their farm, so to coordinate your visit, send a text message to Señora Maglene’ cell phone (09) 98321365 or visit her daughter Marioli in the Casa May-orga Grocery Store in Puyuhuapi.

OVERVIEW

has been hand-crafted using rustic tools, and the talents of Don Tito, his team of ranch hands, and students of the John Paul II high school, in Coyhaique.


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Drinking yerba mate is a huge part of local culture in Patagonia; so much so that during your travels you will encounter entire mon-uments dedicated to the drink. If you ex-plore Cochrane or Coyhaique, you may find yourself in front of a giant hand holding a yerba mate. Maybe you’ll even make your way to the strange house built in the design of what we have to assume is the owner’s favorite drink!

Yerba mate is an infusion made from dried leaves of a cousin of the holly tree, the liex paraguariensis. Yerba mate has been used for thousands of years amongst the indig-enous groups of the Southern Cone. The modern tradition dates back to the 1650s, when Jesuit priests first arrived in Paraguay. They noticed indigenous groups harvesting the plants on a small scale, from wild stands. Seeing the potential, they quickly established yerba mate (liex paraguariensis) tree planta-tions, with intentions of commercializing the drink as a source of stable income. Their efforts spread yerba mate throughout the Andean regions and beyond. Today, yerba mate is grown in southern Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay and sold throughout South America, the Middle East, and many other regions of the world.

Yerba mate is the national drink of Argentina, where, during the latter part of the 1800s, it quickly made its way down from Buenos Aires to Patagonian estancias, becoming a popular warm beverage for farmers work-ing long days in the fields. It provided energy and helped hold off their appetites as they worked. Yerba mate made its way to the Aysén Region of Chile with the migration of early settlers; many of whom spent years in

SIP THE FLAVOR OF

PATAGONIA DURING THE

RITUAL OF DRINKING

MATE

More than a hot drink for a cold day or a pick-me-up in the morning, yerba mate is a tradition in Patagonia; a facilitator for socializing and getting to know one another. Drinking yerba mate is big in this part of the world and it’s pretty likely that you will be invited to join in at some point in your travels. Prepare yourself and learn a little more of this symbol of the culture of Patagonia.


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When drinking yerba mate with oth-ers, the person who has the gourd will take several quick sips to finish all of the water within, and promptly pass it back to the server so that others who are waiting can also have a turn. (Our way of saying – don’t hog the gourd!) When a person is finished drinking mate, but the group is still passing it around, it is customary to say “thank you” to the server as you return it, in-dicating that you are done. Once you say thank you, the host will not offer you another round of yerba mate. Nevertheless you are welcome to re-main for more conversation!

TRAVELERS’ TIPS

Argentina as they worked their way south. Over the years, drinking mate in Aysén has taken on its own social and cultural patterns, and today is an icon of tradition.

Almost all Patagonians in Aysén start their day with yerba mate and typically, this means sharing the drink between family and house-guests and talking about how people slept and the day ahead. In fact, while Yerba mate provides energy and is an appetite suppres-sant, its most important benefit is its ability to bring people together. A simple invitation to sit down next to a wood stove and drink mate together can foster great discussion, build trust and strengthen friendships. The custom involves people sharing rounds of yerba mate, served hot in a small gourd with a metal or bamboo straw. Don’t be sur-prised if you are invited to join in, as offering yerba mate when guests arrive is a common tradition in Patagonia and a great way to break the ice or set the stage for conversa-tion. Yerba mate is rarely sold in restaurants; rather, it is usually served in people’s homes, campsites, farms, and even along the road or trail.

In Aysén, mate is almost always consumed “bitter”, which means in its natural form, without added sugar; however, sometimes people sweeten the brew with sugar or honey and some even add milk. It takes a while to get used to the bitter flavor of yerba mate, but be forewarned, if you are one of the many to acquire the taste, you may find it hard to put down!


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How do you prepare mate?It all begins with the water. You’ll need to heat your water to between 70 - 80˚C, or for those without a thermometer handy, the point just BEFORE boiling. Never use wa-ter that has boiled! Use the freshest water available, preferably without a lot of added chlorine. Fill your thermos and set it to the side. Next, fill your mate cup or calabaza 3/4 full with yerba mate. Fill the cup with the water and place the bombilla into the yerba mate so that it extends to the bottom and rests against one edge. From this point on, the bombilla will remain stationary.

The person who is the server has an import-ant job, which begins with drinking the first cup or two, often called the mate del zonzo (mate of the fool). The goal of drinking these first cups is to test the water temperature and flavor before refilling and passing the hot beverage on to the first person on their right. Each person drinks the entire serving of water before passing the cup back to the server to refill for the next person. This pro-cess goes around and around until the yerba begins to lose its flavor (usually around ten fills, depending on the age of the yerba). At this point the yerba is said to be washed out, and the server should dispose of it and refill the mate cup with a new round of yerba.

» Activity Type: Regional tradition. Learn to prepare a typical bever-age of Patagonia. » Start: Almost any home, campsite or rural inn in Aysén. » End: When you say thank you. » Duration: Could be 20 minutes or could be 2 hours – all depends on the host’s preferences » Seasonality: Year Round » Special Considerations: You can find yerba mate in any store in the region. For calabazas, bombillas and other mate accessories, we suggest La Casa del Mate, located in Errazuriz 268, in Coyhaique. You can find them on Facebook: lacas-adelmate.coyhaique, or by email: [email protected]. » Reservations: Not required. Soon-er or later, you’ll be offered the op-portunity to join in.

OVERVIEW


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“Entre Curanto y Kuchen” (Between cu-ranto and küchen), is the name of the book written by Senora Luisa Ludwig, sociologist and daughter of one of the founders of Puy-uhuapi. Its most recent edition is available in both Spanish and English and for sale in regional bookstores. The book’s name sums up the culture and history of this town well. “Curanto” is a Chilean dish, from the island of Chiloé. I it is prepared throughout Aysén, owing to the influence this culture has had on the area. Throughout the colonization, immigrants arrived from Chiloe, a big part of the workforce for the building of settle-ments like Puyuhuapi. They brought their knowledge and traditions, like techniques for the wooden shingles, called tejuelas, used on many of the buildings in Puyuhuapi. They also brought a unique gastronomy with influ-ences of the sea and special recipes like cu-ranto. This dish is traditionally prepared for gatherings and parties, in a large hole in the ground where stones are piled and heated by a huge bonfire. The contents? Delicious seafood (clams, mussels, etc) mixed with sau-sage, chicken, potatoes and spices and a top layer of giant leaves of the native plant, Nalca. Everything pressure cooks for approximately an hour before it is removed and shared.

Küchen is the German word for cake and in Chile, recognized as any sweet, bread-like cake – the perfect accompaniment to a warm cup of tea or hot chocolate. How did these two dishes come together in Puyuhua-pi? It’s a story with three main protagonists; a handful of German visionaries looking for a new start in life at the end of the world, a tireless explorer known as the “intellectual author of the Carretera Austral” and a group of dedicated Chilotes who were skilled with their axes and creativity.

The history of Puyuhuapi begins in the 1930s, when citizens of some of the provinces of Germany began to seek options and alter-

In addition to panoramic views of the Puyuhuapi Fjord and Queulat National Park, Puyuhuapi is full of unique heritage that mixes the traditions of Germany and Chiloe. It’s the perfect place to explore on two wheels.

PEDAL BETWEEN

CURANTO AND KÜCHEN IN PUYUHUAPI


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natives before the imminent arrival of war. The Chilean government offered free land to those who were willing to work and Pa-tagonia sounded like an area with interesting opportunities. Karl Ludwig, Otto Uebel and Augusto Grosse each came to explore the area, looking for a place to settle. Destiny crossed their paths and they joined efforts, resulting in their discovery of a protected bay with unmatched beauty and immense forest resources.

They decided this was the place to bring German families and form a colony, but the task wasn’t going to be easy. Not only must their plans and petitions be approved by the Chilean government, afterwards they would have to return to their bay via trails or boats and begin to coexist with the sea and the immense forests. Amidst an indomitable natural backdrop, they would need to build a suitable place for families to live, develop

gardens and livestock to ensure there would be food, obtain access to services like educa-tion and healthcare, and develop economic activity that would keep everything going over time. And so it was that in the midst of heavy rains they assembled the first base of operations with two tents that served as their refuge, and shortly thereafter founded Puyuhuapi (1935), giving their settlement the same name as the fjord.

Grosse made a trip to Germany to invite more people to come and participate in the colony, but the war was at the point of breaking out and this prevented him from grabbing the attention of a large numbers. But some of them came, like Walter Hop-perdietzel, Ernst Ludwig (the younger broth-er of Karl) and the first woman, Helen Behn, among others.

In parallel, settlers began to hire workers from Chiloe to assist with the construction of buildings. Several worked on a short-term basis but many others came with their fam-ilies to make Puyuhuapi their home. Among many talents, these workers hand crafted wooden shingles, or tejuelas, using only an ax – and in a bit, we’ll let you know where you can go to see some examples of their work, testaments to the blend of German and Chilota cultures.

Little by little, more settlers and workers arrived, bringing along more women and children to live in this tiny community. By 1950 the colony of Puyuhuapi was a verita-ble beehive of work. It was organized as a cooperative: Otto Uebel was a chemical en-


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gineer, but based on his love and knowledge of farming, they asked him to take charge of the livestock. Walter Hopperdietzel was a textile engineer and founded the carpet factory, still in operation today. Ernst Ludwig was in charge of the lumber yard, sawmill, workshops and home construction. Helmut Hopperdietzel was in charge of the com-munication with the outside world, first as a telegrapher and postmaster, and later, in charge of the coordination of the construc-tion of roads.

Meanwhile, Augusto Grosse was hired by the Chilean Ministry of Public Works as an explorer for the colonization of Aysén. His mission was to search for viable routes to unite the localities emerging in disparate points of the region. He toured and docu-mented the entirety of Aysén, providing the base of knowledge that served planners and engineers in the design and construction of the Carretera Austral. Can anyone doubt that he was a visionary?

In 1971 Puerto Puyuhuapi was officially rec-

ognized by the Chilean State. This pictur-esque village offers visitors a unique heritage and mix of cultures, as noted in the architec-ture and gastronomy, which mixes German influences like küchen, strudels and sauer-kraut, with that of Chiloe, like fish, curanto, milcao or chapalele.

Bike Tour of TownThe Chamber of Tourism in Puyuhuapi has cre-ated a tour so that visitors can learn about the history of the town through its special sites and buildings. We suggest you make it a bike tour; you can rent bikes in town from Austral Experience, which has maps of the Chamber Tour Route and can even accompany you, if you prefer a guided tour. Some of the sites that you need to know:

u German Colonial Cemetery: Today, this site is a small park where there is a monolith with the names of the first German settlers. The chilote cemetery, which had to be moved for the con-struction of the Carretera Austral, was located one kilometer south, on the


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shores of the sea.

u Colonial Trail: An old trail that crosses streams, meadows, and the site of an ancient rock slide before finally fading away as it enters the deep forest.

u Catholic Church: Built in 1966 in the style of the churches of Chiloé; its first priest was Fr. Antonio Ronchi, the “mis-sionary of Patagonia” who is remem-bered throughout this Region for his many public works.

uWorkers’ Houses: These cottages, built in the sixties, with their tejuelas and barn style roofs, are icons of the construction of Puyuhuapi that were typically occupied by Chilote workers who lived in the village.

u Casa Ludwig: Casa Ludwig is the first private building in the region to achieve

» Activity Type: Tour of Puyuhuapi on foot or by bicycle. » Start: Austral Experience, Otto Uebel 36. » End: Austral Experience, Otto Uebel 36. » Distance: You can design your own circuit. » Duration: 1 - 3 hours » Seasonality: Year Round. » Special Considerations: Hungry? We recommend a German-Pata-gonian küchen, which you can find in almost all the cafes in town. » Reservations: You can do the tour on your own or with a guide. If you want to rent bicycles, con-tact Adonis Acuna, the owner of Austral Experience (www.expe-rienciaustral.com), located in Otto Uebel 36, Puyuhuapi: (09) 87448755; [email protected]; [email protected].

OVERVIEW

the designation of “historical monu-ment”, by the National Monuments Council. Built between 1953 and 1960, by settler Ernst Ludwig, the four-story house is made using the German tech-nique of fachwerk construction, based on diagonal cubes and modified for the materials of the area.

uWooden Hydraulic Waterwheel: This waterwheel served to power the ma-chines for the furniture workshop, gen-erate electricity and provide water for the houses.

u Puyuhuapi Carpet Factory: Walter Hopperdietzel and his father founded the factory in the mid 40’s. For three generations, it has given employment to women in the area, many of whom arrived from Chiloé, talented in loom work. It is possible to visit and tour.


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Eating well is not something that settlers sac-rificed when they came to Patagonia. On the contrary, within a few years the pioneers of the Region of Aysén were reinventing their typical recipes with the incorporation of lo-cal flavors. In Puyuhuapi they celebrate this fusion of gastronomic traditions once a year, usually in February, when the Folkloric Fes-tival, Entre Curanto y Kuchen, is held, cel-ebrating the fusion of cuisines that occurred in the area through the blending of German and Chilote culture.

But there is no need to synchronize your trip with the festival. If you want to try a deli-cious küchen in the area you can visit Señora Adriana Baier year round, in her café, Los Mañíos del Queulat. A couple of years ago, Adriana and her husband decided to follow their dream and convert their home into a quaint cafe with capacity for 12 persons. Here Adriana is putting her pastry arts stud-ies in practice preparing delicacies typical of the area, in addition to excellent coffees and espressos. The place is open year round and is also a restaurant, so it is the ideal place to stop for lunch or dinner.

Adriana’s recipe for küchen is very much influenced by the local history. Patagonian pastry in inspired by German traditions, and recipes that have been passed on from gen-eration to generation by the settlers who arrived to populate the area. Of course, they’ve been adapted to include fruits that can be found in Patagonian, like apples, rhubarb, cherries and even nalca, creating unique combinations and new traditions.

So, roll up your sleeves and try your luck with Adriana’s secrets for great küchen!

IN PUYUHUAPI, COFFEE’S BEST

FRIEND IS KÜCHEN

Here’s a delicious (and foolproof) recipe for sweets fans that will bring back great memories of your trip through Patagonia. And for those who aren’t big fans of the kitchen, there’s always the option of going to enjoy küchen at one of the small cafes in Puyuhuapi.


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» IngredientsFor the dough:

• 2 cups of sifted flour• 1 teaspoon of baking powder• 80 to 100 grams of granulated

sugar• 1 pinch of lemon zest• 125 grams of butter• 1 egg yolk• 3 Tablespoons of water

For the filling:

• 125 grams of butter• 1 teaspoon of cinnamon powder• 125 grams of sugar• 200 Grams of flour• 4 green apples• 1 Tablespoon of water

» InstructionsWe’ll begin with the crust. Start by creaming the butter with the sugar, then

RECIPE FOR ADRIANA’S KÜCHEN (10 SERVINGS)add the egg yolks, flour, baking powder and water, and mix until it forms a creamy dough. In the meantime, preheat the oven for 30 minutes to between 150° - 180° C. Grease a detachable mold and fill with the dough, pressing against the sides with a spatula. Bake for 30 minutes. If you are using a gas oven and have the option, direct the flames toward the outside.

Next comes the filling. Grate the apples and sauté with 8 tablespoons of sugar and a tablespoon of water for 15 min-utes. In a food processor, mix 200 grams of flour, 125 g of sugar, 1 T cinnamon, and 125 grams of butter, until the mixture reaches a uniform crumb consistency.

Once the dough is ready, remove from the oven and fill with the baked apples, and then cover with the sugary bread-crumbs. Place back to the oven for about 20 minutes until the crumbs are golden on top. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before serving.


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» Activity Type: Gastronomy. Preparation of a Puyuhuapi style küchen. » Start: Your kitchen. » End: With the perfect dessert for a great meal. » Duration: In an hour and a half the küchen should be cooling down in the window sill. » Seasonality: Year Round. » Special Considerations: Although the recipe is easy you need some specific implements, like a cake pan with a detachable base and a food processor, so that the küchen comes out perfect and is as easy as possible. » Reservations: If you want to try Adriana’s küchen for yourself, visit Los Mañíos del Queulat cafe, located in the bypass for Puyuhuapi, cellular: (09) 76649866, Facebook: losmanios.delqueula, web site: www.losmaniosdelqueulat.cl

OVERVIEW


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There are natural termas (thermal waters or hot springs) within the Aysén Region, but the Palena - Queulat area offers easy access and great concentration. These hot springs are framed with amazing backdrops; evergreen forests, ferns, flowers and other elements of the fjords and channels generated by glacial erosion of the earth’s crust during the last glaciation and the collapse of the central val-ley due to tectonic activity.

The thermal waters of the Palena – Queulat area are related to the volcanic activity in the area, especially the Melimoyu volcano, which remains active even though its last eruption was estimated to have occurred between 8 thousand and 11 thousand years ago. Here are three of the many options for relaxing in the thermal baths of the area, each with a different style and price. Your choice, or visit all three, and enjoy the variety!

The Termas del Ventisquero Puyuhuapi, are located 6 km south of Puyuhuapi, alongside the Carretera Austral. When you leave the parking lot and step down the stairs leading to the baths, you will find yourself immersed in beautiful native gardens that later open up to provide a backdrop for the panoramic views of the fjord, which you will enjoy as you relax in the warming waters. The pools vary in temperature between 35 °C and 44 °C and most have roofs overhead, so regard-less of the weather, inside the waters you’ll be toasty warm. During the summer months the baths are open until 23:00, allowing you the chance to relax under the stars. In addi-tion, there are changing rooms with lockers and towels, showers, and a coffee shop with great pastries, coffees and snacks.

Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa is another great op-tion, located on the other side of the Puy-uhuapi Fjord. To access the spa, you’ll travel 14 km south from Puyuhuapi, to their park-

SOOTHING THERMAL WATERS +

PATAGONIA LANDSCAPES = MAGIC!

After long days of hiking, sailing, biking, kayaking or horse riding, it is good to take a break and pamper yourself so you are ready to continue the fun. In the Palena – Queulat area you’ll have lots of different options for relaxing in Patagonian hot springs, each with a completely different style.


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ing area and pier. You should coordinate your visit in advance so that they will have the boat waiting to transport you to the other side of the fjord. The Lodge, Spa and Baths are all located on a private peninsula called Dorita Bay where you,ll find the perfect combination of sea waters, fresh waters, and thermal waters. There are 3 outdoor baths overlooking the fjord that can be used both day and night. In addition, there is an indoor swimming pool and a full treatment spa with massage and other services based on the properties of the thermal water and muds of the area. And if one day is not enough, simply reserve a stay in their luxury accommoda-tions for a few more days of total comfort. Keep in mind, during the high season the fa-cilities are for the exclusive use of the guests of the lodge. Reserve ahead.

Further north, in kilometer 17 of Route X-12, from La Junta to Port Marin Balmaceda, you’ll find the El Sauce Rustic Hot Springs, owned by the Berger’s, one of the original families to settle in these valleys. The Bergers pro-vide access to the thermal waters on their lands, with facilities that are rustic, unique and wonderful! First, there’s the adven-ture of getting to the springs. You enter their farm through a gate located at Route X-12 and drive approximately 3 km before reaching the springs. Here, in the middle of a rustic and natural setting, you find chang-ing rooms, bathrooms, areas for barbecu-ing and wooden walkways leading into the nearby forest where the baths are located and are improved only by the addition of

cypress decking and river pebbles. It’s mag-ical. During January and February, the front gate is open from 9:30 to 20:30, Monday to Sunday. In other months you should contact them beforehand to arrange your visit.


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» Type of activity: Visit to thermal baths. » Start: Palena – Queulat Area » End: Palena – Queulat Area » Distance: Depends on the thermal baths you elect. See location infor-mation in the section on reservations. » Duration: Depends on you. You can take a one-hour break in the El Sauce Hot Springs, or stay for coffee and pastries at Termas del Ventisquero Puyuhuapi, or you can disappear into the relaxing waters for several days at the Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa. » Special Considerations: Contact the baths directly for timetables, prices and availability. » Reservations: During the tourist sea-son, you can visit the Termas del Ven-tisquero Puyuhuapi and the El Sauce Termas without reservations. The Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa baths are only

OVERVIEWavailable for guests with reservations in advance and you’ll want to confirm the boat crossing schedule.• Termas del Ventisquero Puy-

uhuapi, Carretera Austral s/n; 6 Km south of Puyuhuapi; (09) 76666862 – 76776967; (067) 2314683; [email protected]; www.termasventis-queropuyuhuapi.cl

• Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa, Dorita Bay s/n; Austral Docks, 14 Km south of Puyuhuapi; (02) 2256489; [email protected]; www.patagonia-connec-tion.com

• El Sauce Springs, Km 17, Route X-12 between La Junta and Raúl Marín Balmaceda; Claudio Berger; (09) 94542711; [email protected]


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The experience of touring by kayak is unique, especially when the Puyuhuapi Fjords be-come calm and all of the colors and reliefs of the mountain are reflected on their sur-face. Sitting even with the waterline, ev-erything takes on a new perspective; the constant movement of the waves, the silent movement of the boat and the coast with its forests and beaches, keeping watch over everything from the distance. On these days, we would describe the experience of kayak-ing this Fjord with a single word: tranquility, just you, your paddle, your boat of approxi-mately 4 to 5 meters, and nature. Paddling the fjords offers opportunities to watch sea lions, dolphins, and both coastal and forest bird-life, because the vegetation on the is-lands is so lush that all the forests extend to the sea.

Begin your adventure in Puerto Puyuhuapi, a quaint village founded in 1935, joining German and Chilote heritage. The town was founded on the edge of the fjord by four immigrants from what is now the Czech Republic. They came to Patagonia in hopes of leaving behind the threat of impending war in Europe, bring with them a great spirit of adventure and a love for nature. Their initial idea was to inspire other families to join them as soon as possible; however, the Second World War delayed their plans until 1947. Meanwhile, they worked to develop the port, bringing in master carpenters and wood-workers from the island of Chiloe to assist with the daunting task of developing a colony in the middle of such a remote and indomitable landscape. Today, Puyuhuapi offers a fusion of cultures, reflected in the architecture and a gastronomy that borrows from both heritages, mixing fish and currant with German-style küchen and asados.

If you’re not traveling with your own equip-ment, the best way to kayak the Puyuhuapi Fjord is with a licensed operator, who will

KAYAK THE PUYUHUAPI

CHANNEL

This photogenic channel provides a liquid corridor between mountains, forests and rocky islands filled with marine birds and animals. We suggest a half-day kayak tour of these waters before finishing with a well-deserved rest in local hot springs.


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provide the right equipment and a guide fa-miliar with these waters. As long as you are willing to follow the directions of your guides, this activity is even suitable for beginners. The excursion starts at the docks in town, where you’ll meet with your guide to orga-nize and prepare your gear. Around 09:00, you’ll enter the water and start paddling the Puyuhuapi Channel, which is also known as the Cay Channel. This channel connects with the Jacaf Channel and then the Pacific Ocean to the north and to the south, where there is direct access to the open Pacific seas. Along the Puyuhuapi Channel, you’ll note various activities associated with salmon farming, which it one of the major economic activities in this area.

Donning your neoprene wet-suit and other protective gear, you’ll begin to paddle along the northern shoreline, with the Carretera Austral always to your left. During the tour you will observe a large variety of birds, like black-necked swans, cormorants, herons, kingfishers, petrel and Magellan penguin, in addition to sea lions and austral dolphins, also known as toninas. Since you are in kay-ak, your tour will be extremely quiet, causing less distractions and fear amongst the fauna and rewarding you with the possibility of be-ing much closer than you would be able to achieve in boat.

During the tour you will see the group of

» Activity Type: Guided kayak ex-cursion. » Start: Puerto Puyuhuapi. » End: Puerto Puyuhuapi. » Distance: 6.5 nautical miles of nav-igation. » Duration: 3 -5 hours. » Special Considerations: Looking for more activity and adventure? You can combine this excursion with 6 kilometers of mountain bik-ing, going from town to the Termas del Ventisquero Puyuhuapi, and then return to town via kayak after relaxing in the thermal baths. » Reservations: In Puyuhuapi, you can contact: Experiencia Austral, Otto Ubel #36; (09) 87448755; [email protected] ; [email protected] ;www.experienciaustral.com.

OVERVIEW

volcanoes that rise up all around Puyuhuapi and a little later, an unforgettable panoramic view of the Queulat Hanging Glacier from the Puyuhuapi Fjord. In this sector there are thermal waters that spring from the rocks, and mix with the sea. You can leave your kayak on the nearby beach and soothe tired muscles with a well-deserved rest in their re-laxing hot waters before returning to Puerto Puyuhuapi.


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Beginning in the XVI century, long before technical apparel, GPS, motor boats or portable generators, there were dozens of brave and capable explorers who ventured into the challenging and unpredictable lands and seas in this part of the world looking for the mythical City of the Caesars. According to legend, this mythical city was filled with the gold of indigenous groups and Spanish shipwrecks. Jesuit priest, Fr. José García Al-sué, was one such explorer, and in 1776, he conducted an exploratory mission in the area that comprises Queulat National Park. He traveled deep within in his search for the mythical city, exploring the basin of the Queulat River until he reached a beautiful waterfall that is named in his honor.

With the exception of hanging glaciers that reached all the way to the sea during Padre Garcia’s era, the early explorers saw scenery very similar to what you will encounter to-day: giant pangues, o nalcas, ferns, mosses, impenetrable forests and abundant lakes and rivers. The 154,093 hectares that comprise Queulat National Park are divided into three areas: (1) Sector Angostura, which includes Risopatrón lake and Los Pumas Lagoon, north of Puyuhuapi, and the glacial area to-ward the south of town; 2) Sector Ventis-quero (Km 200 of the Austral Road), where you will find several trails leading to spectac-ular views of the Hanging Glacier and its La-goon and 3) Sector Portezuelo, where there are trails to the Padre Garcia Cascade and the glacial lagoons of the Enchanted Forest.

The park, established by the Chilean Gov-ernment in 1983, is located 165 km north of Coyhaique and is a favorite for both nature photographers and hikers, thanks to its ac-cessibility, scenic beauty and the added plus that the great majority of this territory still remains pristine and largely unexplored.

Discover the biodiversity of the Angostura Sector in the climb to Los Pumas Lagoon.

EXPLORE QUEULAT NATIONAL

PARK HIKING ITS MANY

TRAILS

The Queulat National Park can be explored through various hikes that will allow you to experience the forests, rivers, lakes, fjords, waterfalls and hanging glaciers that makes this place unique.


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The path up to the Los Pumas Lagoon begins alongside the Carretera Austral, where there is a small parking area across from the Conaf campsites. The campsites offer 4 roofed tent sites with fire pits, drinking water and bath-rooms with cold water showers. This area is one of the only documented habitats for the Darwin’s frog, an endangered species, barely 3 cm in length, which sings during the day and loves sunbathing.

THE HIKE (DISTANCE- 5.6 MILES ROUND TRIP; ACTIVITY DURATION - APPROXIMATELY 4 - 5 HOURS):

The first 2,500 m of the trail are the hardest part of this trek, as you climb a seemingly never-ending rustic stairway through the forest. In this sector there are a lot of chilcos, a native understory bush that is one of the favorite foods of the pudu, the smallest deer in the world. If you are quiet and very lucky, they might just make an appearance! As you climb, you’ll pass two overlooks where you will have excellent views of the valley and the Risopatrón Lake. With patience and perse-verance, you’ll reach the top of the climb, where things will level off somewhat and you will enter a mature forest of giant coigües, mañío, canelo and chauras, among other species. Subsequently, you’ll approach the tree line and the forest cover will change yet again, this time being dominated by shrubby lengas and ñires, as you approach the lake. The lake has a surface area of approximately 25 hectares and is the habitat for many dif-ferent species of migratory birds, especially in spring. You can also find the tiny 3 cm tall carnivorous plant called the swamp violet (drosera uniflora). Ask the park rangers for help finding it!

Approach the ice in the Sector of the

TRAVELERS’ TIPSThere are several options for accom-modation in this sector of the Park, in addition to the Conaf camping area. Reserve in advance in: Ecocamping Playa Arrayanes - Carretera Austral s/n; 5 kilometers north of Puyuhuapi; (09) 90785896; [email protected]; www.campingarraya-nes.com. Another option El Pangue Lodge, Carretera Austral, Km 240 - North Shore of Risopatrón Lake;(067) 2526906; [email protected]; www.elpangue.com. In addition to the lodge and cabins, they offer guests a restaurant, a heated swimming pool, sauna and hot tubs.


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TRAVELERS’ TIPS » In addition to The Moraine Trail, which is the most visited, there are three others that can be explored in this sector. The Trail to the Pan-oramic Overlook, which extends a short 200 meters to the confluence of the Ventisqueros and Desagüe Rivers, from which you can observe the Ventisquero Colgante (Hanging Glacier). The Trail to the Témpa-nos Lagoon is slightly longer (600 meters), crossing the Ventisqueros River over a hanging bridge and leading to the lagoon where there is a boat that can be contracted to cross the waters to the base of the glacier. The Aluvión Interpretive Trail is a short trail located in the area of the Hanging Glacier with information on landslides that have occurred in the past. » If you are looking for accommoda-tions in this sector you can contact the Posada Estuary Queulat, locat-ed in kilometer 192 of the Carret-era Austral; (09) 99193520; [email protected]; www.posadaqueulat.cl. The Posada offers luxury cabins with country breakfasts and dinners included, in addition to guided trekking tours and boat excursions of the Queulat Estuary.

Hanging Queulat GlacierThe entrance to the Hanging Queulat Gla-cier Sector of the park is approximately 20 km south of Puyuhuapi alongside the Car-retera Austral. Follow the entrance road to its end and park in designated areas in front of the Environmental Interpretation Visitor Center. From here you can access the trail-head for the Moraine Trail, the most famous hike within the Park and a definite highlight.

THE HIKE (DISTANCE - 6 KILOMETERS OUT AND BACK; DURATION: APPROX-IMATELY 2 - 3 HOURS):

Leaving the Visitor Center you’ll cross the footbridge over the outflow of the Témpa-nos Lagoon, which forms a beautiful river with large rocks and stunning rapids. The views are spellbinding, and the movement of the bridge creates a sense of dizzy adven-ture! On the other side you’ll see signs indi-cating two trails; the one to the right takes you to the Témpanos Lagoon and the one to the left, the Moraine Trail, which is the one to choose. It winds upward for a length of approximately 3 km, through forests and moraine with panoramic views of the Puy-uhuapi Fjord, the Témpanos Lagoon, and the grand finale: the Hanging Glacier.

The start of the trail is flat, gently winding between the trees, lichens and ferns charac-teristic of these humid forests. The second section begins to climb with series of rustic steps taking you upward between giant tree trunks covered in vines. There are benches along the way if you need a break, strategi-cally set amongst the forest in places where you can obtain great views of the Puyuhuapi Fjord with the Pacific Ocean in the back-

ground. Imagine! A little over a hundred years ago, the glacier reached all the way through the valley to touch the sea.

Rest up and have a snack, because the last stretch of the trail is the most challenging, with a steep climb to an overlook of the Témpanos Lagoon and shortly thereafter, the Hanging Glacier, swathed by massive rocks and surrounded by waterfalls. The volume of the water from the waterfalls var-ies during the year; in the summer months you will likely be treated to more icebergs and calving. Shortly before reaching this final overlook you can fill your water bottle from a small waterfall at the side of the trail.

The average annual rainfall in this area ranges from 3,500 to 4,000 millimeters, so there’s a good chance that you will not have visibility


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of the glacier through the clouds and rain. While disappointing, it is precisely all this water that enables the growth of the lush vegetation that surrounds you in Queulat, filling the whole environment with hues of green and the smell of fresh, humid soil. Our advice is to plan your visit with ample time so that you can take advantage of the breaks in the rain to capture all of the amazing details and sights.

The Padre Garcia and Enchanted Forest Trails of the Portezuelo SectorIn Queulat National Park, the towering An-des Cordillera drops abruptly to the shores of the Puyuhuapi Fjord and Queulat Estu-ary, forming steep and dramatic slopes with climbs of 500 meters over the course of a few kilometers in the Sector of the Porte-zuelo. The relieve is the product of large tectonic, glacial and volcanic movements, producing a rugged topography filled with rocky slopes, summits, glaciers and waterfalls pouring from ice fields just out of sight in the tops of the mountains.

The Padre Garcia Trail is located at the be-ginning of the northern side of the Queulat pass from a trail-head alongside the Car-retera Austral. This short trail drops 150 meters, where you’ll be accompanied by increasingly strong sounds of water, until you reach a small opening in the middle of a lush green forest and a beautiful waterfall of about 30 m.

After a series of switchback in the pass and driving through the Portezuelo, you’ll find the parking area for the start of the Bosque Encantado Trail, one of the most beautiful

and unknown of the park, in the first few ki-lometers of the descent.

THE HIKE (DISTANCE - 4.5 KILOMETERS, OUT AND BACK; DURATION - AP-PROXIMATELY 2-3 HOURS):

The initial 2 km of the trail winds through a lush and seemingly enchanted forest gradu-ally climbing up a steep slope up to a pan-oramic overlook of the sector. Afterwards, in order to access the Lagoon of the Gnomes, the hike leaves the forests and proceeds along the sometimes slippery edge of the Cascada River which winds through the mo-raine before finally leading up to the lagoon. The Lagoon of the Gnomes is surrounded by rocky walls, on which the Glacier is perched, just out of view; nevertheless, you’ll see the huge icebergs that have fallen from its elusive front. Note the tracks left by the glacier in its advances and retreats over these rocky walls. The first 500 meters of this trail are easy, beautiful and suitable for all walkers. After-wards the hike becomes more challenging, with steep slopes, stairs and rocky moraine.


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» Activity Type: Hiking. » Start: Queulat National Park. » End: Queulat National Park. » Distance: See each trail’s description. » Duration: See each trail’s description. » Seasonality: Mainly in the summer, due to snowfall and other climatic complexities. » Special Considerations: You must register with Park Rangers and pay an entrance fee. Plan your walk with plenty of daylight hours, wear appro-priate clothing for variable weather, and bring hiking poles, sunglasses, rain gear, a hat and sunscreen. You’ll also want water, a snack and your camera. » Reservations: Not necessary. You can enjoy these trails self-guided or con-tract a guide service, as you prefer. Operators include: • Experiencia Austral – Puyuhuapi,

Otto Uebel 36; (09) 87448755; [email protected]; www.experienciaustral.com.

• Posada Estuario Queulat - Km 192 Carretera Austral; (09) 99193520; patricio@posadaqueulat .cl ; www.posadaqueulat.cl.

OVERVIEW• El Pangue Lodge - Carretera

Austral Km 240, North Shore Risopatrón Lake; (067) 2526906; [email protected]; www.el-pangue.com.

• If you’re in Coyhaique, you ar-range a day trip through: · Ecotravel Patagonia; (09)

56679288; contacto@ecotravelpatagonia .com ; www.ecotravelpatagonia.com.

· Geosur Expediciones - Simon Bolivar 521; (09) 92648671; Facebook: Expediciones Geo-Sur; [email protected]; www.geosurex-pediciones.com.

· GeoTurismo Patagonia - José de Moraleda 480, Of-fice 6; (067) 2233439; (09) 66367733; [email protected]; www.geo-turismopatagonia.cl.

· Purapatagonia Excursiones y Expediciones - General Parra 202; (067) 2246000; [email protected]; www.pu-rapatagonia.cl.


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This route starts in Villa Amengual, tak-ing Route X-25 in the direction of Villa La Tapera. We recommend stopping in Villa Amengual before you begin the route; there are multiple choices for accommodation and an excellent Center for Crafts. You can buy snacks and supplies in Villa Amengual and also in Villa La Tapera. Route X-25 begins by traveling through lush forest comprised of coigüe, tepa, mañío y ciruelillo, bordered by the valleys and waters of the Cisnes River. There are several spots for fly-fishing along this way, and overlooks where you’ll capture great shots of the intense greens and blues of the river, and large side canyons filled with white water rapids visible from the road. You’ll also be able to observe countless wa-terfalls, rivers and streams joining the river from these side canyons and valleys, helping to add volume as the river makes its way to the Pacific Ocean in the vicinity of Puerto Cisnes.

The landscape begins to change drastically as one nears Villa La Tapera. The forest cover changes from evergreen temperate rain for-est to deciduous forests comprised of lenga and ñirre, and the landscape begins to open up, allowing you to see the mountains in all directions. Soon, you’ll leave behind the for-est altogether; once past the village, Patago-nian steppe quickly takes over the horizon, dominated by small scrub trees and grasses like coiron. Throughout the drive, you’ll see signage indicating the lands of the Río Cisnes Estancia. Nevertheless, from the moment you cross over onto the Pampa, pretty much everything in your view belongs to this giant ranch.

Villa La Tapera is a strange mixture of an-cient houses constructed of adobe and te-juelas (hand crafted wooden shingles), mixed with modern paved streets, a fitness center and a brand new, state of the art, school. The vast majority of people who live in Villa La Tapera are associated with the Estancia in

Since the beginning of the twentieth century, the Río Cisnes Estancia has provided jobs and opportunities for the settlers of Villa La Tapera and Alto Río Cisnes. Travel this scenic route to visit this historic estancia.

FROM THE FORESTS OF VILLA

AMENGUAL TO THE PAMPAS OF ALTO RÍO

CISNES


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one way or another, so if you have questions or want to learn more, strike up a conver-sation with someone in town. It’s a gaucho culture, and interestingly, some time back, wild boar and red deer were introduced; Taperians have become skilled hunters and offer visitors excellent meals featuring these exotic meats.

The journey continues eastward across the pampa in the direction of the border with Argentina, until, after approximately 37 ki-lometers, you encounter the airstrip, enor-mous barns and structures of the Río Cisnes Estancia, along the left-hand side of the road. Keep watch for gauchos working with the enormous sheep herds and native fauna like caiquenes, hares and birds of prey including

eagles, kestrels and of course, the enormous Andean condor. The Río Cisnes Estancia was initiated in the 1920s under the direction of the Sociedad Ganadera Cisnes and went on to become one of the three largest estancias of Aysén. Today the Estancia is comprised of approximately 130 thousand hectares, and is

TRAVELERS’ TIPSVisiting the Estancia in December is fascinating, because you can observe the sheep shearing process. It’s amaz-ingly fast! The esquilador (shearer) supports the sheep against his body and begins by cutting the wool on the sheep’s stomach, then the ex-tremities and finally, the head and neck area. For a skilled esquilador, the entire shearing lasts no more than a pair of minutes and the sheep is on his way. Within a month, the team of 12 esquiladores shear around 60 thousand sheep! If you want to ob-serve, coordinate with the Estancia in advance.


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» Activity Type: Scenic route of his-torical, cultural and natural interest » Start: Villa Amengual. » End: Alto Río Cisnes. » Distance: 180 km round trip travel-ing Route X-25, from the Carretera Austral. » Duration: 6 - 8 hours. » Seasonality: Year round. » Special Considerations: From the Río Cisnes Estancia, you’ll be just a few kilometers from Argentina and the Río Frías Border Crossing. Be-fore crossing, talk with local police (Carabineros de Chile) regarding road conditions. If you are a citizen or permanent resident of Chile you will need to obtain a salvoconduc-to before crossing. Foreign visitors may need to obtain a tourist visa to enter Argentina (available on line). Remember to fill your tank in Mañihuales or Puyuhuapi before traveling. » Reservations: Not required, but if you want to contact the Estancia in advance, you can visit their office in Coyhaique or contact them by phone: Baquedano 776, Coyhai-que; (067) 2233055; (02) 19624513; www.estanciariocisnes.com.

OVERVIEW

focused on its sheep operations with a small secondary focus on cattle production. Some of the original facilities of the Estancia were declared to be of importance for National Heritage by the National Monuments Coun-cil in 2009. If you would like to visit these buildings, including the original house and the Cuero Bayo Sheering Shed, stop by the office to register and receive instructions.

From the Estancia you can also visit the Car-lota Lake National Reserve which is an ideal place to camp, hike and fish. For more infor-mation and access to the reserve, coordinate with the office of the Estancia; it is necessary to cross Estancia land and even open some locked gates on the way.


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The Las Torres Lake National Reserve was created in 1982, although in its early years it was nothing more than a resting point for horseback travelers making their way through Cisnes Medio, as this sector was known. In the years that followed, Conaf in-stalled a Ranger Cabin, fencing, and a dock, and beautiful Las Torres Lake debuted and began to gain recognition and visits. It quickly caught on as a good spot for fly-fishing and catch-and-release values have kept a good population for fishermen who visit its shores and waters today.

The natural setting of the lake will captivate you immediately. Jagged snowy peaks jet up around you year round, giving birth to the tributaries of the Torres, Santa Andrea and Tobiana estuaries and the Cisnes Rodríguez y Picaflor Rivers. Add in the crystal clear waters of Los Torres Lake and you’ve got the ideal Reserve in which to spend a few days of good fishing. The lake has an area of approximately 330 hectares, with an abun-dance of large rainbow and brown trout. You can almost always find calm waters, as the mountains of the Pichacho and Torres chains enclose and protect the lake from the major-ity of Patagonian winds.

One of the most special things about Lago Los Torres National Reserve is its location next to the Carretera Austral and the ser-vices it provides for fishermen, cyclists and other visitors. You will find small shelters for camping, where you can assemble your tent to the side or sleep inside. Each shelter is built in an attractive and rustic way with a large table where you can cook and eat, us-ing your camping stove. There is also a grilling area, bathrooms with showers, a quincho, a small beach, a pier and guided boat excur-sions. If you prefer to sleep in a bed, Señora Mirta Arias, the manager of the area, offers both lodging and meals in her rural inn. She is

THE TROUT OF YOUR DREAMS IS WAITING

FOR YOU IN LAS TORRES LAKE

If you are a fishing fanatic, the Las Torres Lake National Reserve is the place to visit. With a unique beauty, the Reserve offers a combination of comfortable amenities and beautiful environment; critical factors to inspire your search for the perfect trout. The rest is up to you!


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an excellent cook so don’t hesitate to speak with her to coordinate breakfast, lunch, din-ner or picnics.

Ten kilometers north along the Carretera Austral, you’ll encounter the tiny town of Villa Amengual. Here there are several small hospedajes and minimarkets, a local handi-crafts cooperative and a picturesque church crafted with tejuelas (hand carved wooden shingles) in the style of the famous church-es of Chiloé. This church is very significant for the people of Villa Amengual. They built both the building and all of its furniture them-selves, working together as a community, with the support of Father Antonio Ronchi, a missionary who worked in Aysén for close to 30 years, helping local communities to lower the barriers of isolation and poverty.

NOTEIn order to conserve and protect the fish populations of Aysén, nor-mal practice involves catch-and-re-lease ethics. This practice consists of releasing caught fish with the least possible damage, so that they can survive, once returned. Some tips to release fish with minimal damage:

» Avoid tiring the fish. » Touch the fish at little as possible. Holding it inside the water with as little pressure as possible, is your best option. » Do not cover their gills with fin-gers or other objects. » Use barbless hooks; they are eas-ier to remove, and can easily be made by clamping the barbs with a set of pliers. » Don’t pull or force the hook, if it is tough remove, cut the line near the mouth of the fish. » Return the fish to the water. If the fish has not yet recovered, allow fresh water to enter its mouth and exit below its guts, by placing it in front of the current. » Let the fish swim away by its own means (don’t toss or otherwise propel it).


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» Activity Type: Recreational Fishing in Los Torres Lake. » Start: Los Torres Lake National Re-serve » End: Los Torres Lake National Re-serve » Distance: The activity takes place in the lakes, rivers and estuaries of the area, in a radius of approximately 20 Km. » Duration: 1 day or more. » Seasonality: Open year round; fishing during the season which extends be-tween November and April. » Special Considerations: You need to purchase a fishing license (www.sernapesca.cl) and inform yourself about regulations and how to prevent the spread of Didymo, a highly inva-sive algae which has contaminated riv-ers throughout the world, including in Aysén (www.didymo.cl). » Reservations: You do not need res-ervations to visit the Reserve, but it is advisable to book accommodations in advance. When Señora Mirta is within the Reserve, there is no signal and she cannot receive calls, but you can leave messages with the details of your request. Lago Los Torres National Reserve Tourist Services

OVERVIEW– Carretera Austral Km 120; Accom-modations, Camping, Meal Services and Boat Excursions; Mirta Arias; (067) 2215425; (09) 87342603 - 92487016 – 91490064. » In Villa Amengual, options include:• Lago Las Torres Lodge - Carretera

Austral Km 130; (064) 2232514; (09) 98222685 - 81760221 - 81760709 - 81760221; [email protected]; www.lagolas-torres.cl.

• Hostal y Residencial Las Ban-durrias - Carretera Austral Km 132; [email protected].

• Hostal y Residencial El Encanto - Plaza Passage 3; (09) 91448662; [email protected].

• Hostal y Residencial El Indio - Carmen Arias 10; (067) 2215434; (09) 81680876 – 85078137; [email protected].

• Hospedaje El Paso - Carmen Arias 12; (067) 2215413; [email protected].

• Hospedaje El Michay - Carmen Arias 14; (067) 2215425; [email protected].

• Hostal y Residencial Las Lumas - Camino Austral, 8 Km north of the village; (09) 95103087.


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When Ayséninos gather to share yerba mate, is inevitable that someone breaks out a plate of warm, fried cakes, called tortas fri-tas. For meals and especially Asados al Palo, tortas fritas are usually accompanied by a savory relish called Chilean pebre, but their flavor also lends itself to toppings like Manjar or Marmelade, allowing you to serve them as both a bread and a cake.

The pioneers of the Patagonia needed foods that were easy to prepare, could last sever-al days and be transported through harsh climatic conditions and terrains. Tortas Fri-tas met all these requirements. Although they resemble Sopaipillas which are popu-lar throughout the north of Chile, they are simpler, omitting the use of pumpkin in the dough. They are actually more similar to the fried breads made in Argentina and Uruguay, showing yet another example of how these cultures mixed in Patagonia through the enormous Estancias, which attracted gau-chos from all over South America. Original-ly, Tortas Fritas were prepared with lard and fried in lamb oil; however, today most people eat a healthier version using vegetable oil.

It is becoming increasingly common to be offered a basket of Tortas Fritas with Chil-ean Pebre when waiting for your meal in one the many restaurants of the Region. Chilean pebre is a sort of salsa or relish. Its recipe varies in accordance with the cook, but usu-ally includes tomato, cilantro, chopped onion and peppers. Slice your tortas in half and spoon the pebre on top and when you get down to the bottom of the bowl, dunk them in the pebre juice to sop up every last bit of goodness. It’s a practice that’s probably not registered in the manual of good habits, but which is worth fighting over with the rest of the guests, if necessary.

Tortas Fritas and Chilean Pebre are great for taking on the road; just remember to store them separately. Their preparation is simple, so give them a try!

Tortas fritas are the Patagonian version of Sopaipillas, doughnuts or beignets, and have been a staple in this area since the time of the pioneers. Here’s your chance to learn how to make them.

HAVE YOU TRIED TORTAS FRITAS WITH PEBRE YET?


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» IngredientsFor the tortas:

• 1 Kilo of flour without baking powder

• 1 T dry yeast• Salt• 1 Liter of vegetable oil or a small

packet of lard• Warm Water

For the pebre:

• 3 or 4 medium tomatoes• 1 bunch of fresh cilantro• 1 bunch of chives or 1 medium

onion• 2 cloves of garlic• 1 lemon• 1 green chili• White vinegar• Vegetable Oil• Cold Water • Salt » Preparation

First the pebre. Peel the tomatoes, re-move the seeds and finely dice, then add 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of white vinegar, the juice of one lemon, two cloves of garlic, finely chopped, half a cup of chopped cilantro, half a cup of finely chopped onion or chives and a minced green chili. Add 3/4 cup of cold water and salt to taste. Let the pebre

RECIPE FOR 15 - 20 TORTAS FRITAS ACCOMPANIED BY CHILEAN PEBRE:

sit for one hour to allow the flavors to mingle.

Now for the Tortas. Make the dough by dissolving a tablespoon of yeast in 1/3 cup of lukewarm water. Mix 1-1/2 cups of flour with 1-1/2 teaspoons of salt and 1/2 cup of melted lard or vegetable oil. Mix until a dough is formed. If necessary, add a few tablespoons of water until the dough is homogeneous. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes until it is no longer sticky and springs back when pressed with a fin-ger. Form a ball and sprinkle with flour. Place the dough in a bowl, cover with a clean and slightly damp dishcloth. Let the dough rise in a heated area for about 45 minutes.

There are several ways to shape your Tortas Fritas. One option is to roll out the dough to a thickness of approximate-ly 2-3 centimeters. Use a round cutter or a glass, cut out small circles. Make a hole in the center of each circle with your fin-ger. Pour enough oil in a deep fryer to cover the tortas and heat until it starts to sizzle when you sprinkle in a drop of water. Fry the Tortas in the oil in small batches until browned on both sides, re-quiring you to turn them at least once. Drain excess oil by allowing them to rest on a paper towel before serving with pe-bre or other delicious accompaniments.


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» Activity Type: Gastronomy. Preparation of Tortas Fritas and Chilean Pebre. » Start: Buy the ingredients at a lo-cal market. » End: The table, the trail, wherev-er! » Duration: Depends on the skill of the cook, but in 60 minutes you should be ready to enjoy. » Seasonality: Year Round. » Special Considerations: Be careful when frying the Tortas in the hot oil! » Reservations: Not required.

OVERVIEW


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The flora and fauna that you may see include:Trees and shrubs: Poplar or Alamos (Populus nigra - In-troduced); Chilean Araurcaria (Araucaria araucana - Intro-duced); Arrayán (Luma apiculata); Calafate (Berberis buxi-folia); Hydrangea (Hydrangea serratifolia); Canelo (Drimys winteri); Chaura (Pernettya mucronata); Fuchsia or Chilco (Fuchsia magellanica); Cypress de las Guaitecas (Pilgero-dendron uviferum); Ciruelillo or Notro (Embothrium coc-cineum); Coigüe (Nothofagus dombeyi); Chiloe Coigüe (Nothofagus nitida); Magellan Coigüe (Nothofagus betuloi-des); Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio); Luma (Amomyrtus luma); Maitén (Maytenus boaria); Short Leaf Mañío (Saxegothaea conspicua); Pointed Leaf Mañío (Podocarpus nubigenus); Mi-chay (Berberis ilicifolia); Murta (Myrtus communis); Murtilla (Empetrum rubrum); Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica ); Rosa Mosqueta or Rose Hips (Rosa rubiginosa - introduced); Sauce or Willow (Salix humboldtiana - Introduced); Tepa (Laureli-opsis philipiana); Tepu (Tepualia stipularis); Tineo or Palo San-to (Weinnmania trichosperma); Zarzaparilla or Sarsaparilla (Ribes magellanicum)

Flowers and Canes: Astelia (Astelia pumila); Cadillo (Acaena sp.); Coligüe Cane (Chusquea culeou); Quila Cane (Chusquea quila); Chocho or lupine (Lupinus sp. - Introduced); Coicopihue (Philesia magellanica); Coirón (Stipa humilis, Stipa speciosa, Festuca pallescens); Colapiche (Nassauvia glomer-ulosa); Dandelion or chicory (Taraxacum officinale); Wild strawberries (Fragaria chiloensis); Hebe (Veronica salicifolia); Reed or Juncillo (Marsippospermum grandiflorum); Manila (Eryngium paniculatum); Mata Negra (Chilitrichum diffusum); Neneo (Mulimum spinosum); Panguecito or devil’s strawber-ry (Gunnera magellanica); Yellow Retamo or Scotch Broom

BIODIVERSITY IN THE PALENA - QUEULAT AREA


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(Spartium junceum - introduced); Swamp Violet (Drosera uniflora); Yuyo (Brassica rapa)

Mosses, Fungi and Ferns: Ampe or Palmita (Lophosoria cuadripinnata quadripinnata); Old Man’s Beard (Usnea barba-ta); Cow’s Rib Fern (Blechnum chilense); Digüeñe of Coigue (Cyttaria harioti); Digüeñe of Ñirre (Cyttaria darwinii); Fuin-que (Lomatia ferruginea); Large Palmetto Fern (blech-num magellanicum); Film Fern (Hymenophyllum dentatum o Hy-menophyllum pectinatum); Feather Fern (Blechnum penna - marina); Morilla (Morchella conica); Pinito Moss (Dendroli-gotrichum dendroides); Nalca or Pangue (Gunnera tinctoria); Palmita (Lycopodium paniculatum); Palomita (Codonorchis lessonii); Frog’s Umbrella ((Hypopterygium arbuscula); Topa topa or Capachito (Calceolaria tenella); Yerba loza or Palmita (Gleichenia quadripartita)

Amphibians: Austral Litter Frog (Eupsophus calcaratus); Mottled Frog (Batrachyla leptopus); Darwin’s Frog (Rhino-derma darwinii); Variegated Leaf Toad (Nannophryne var-iegata)

Birds: Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus), Hawk (Buteo polyosoma), Bandurria (Theristicus melanopis or Theristicus caudatus), Cachaña or Austral Parakeet (Enicognathus ferru-gineus), Tufted Tit-tyrant (Anairetes parulus), Canquenes or Caiquenes (Chloegphaga picta or Chloegphaga poliocepha-la), Carancho or Caracara (Phalcoboenus albogularis), Or-dinary Woodpecker (Picoides lignarius), Black Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus), Kestrel (Falco sparverius), Cher-cán (Troglodytes musculus), Chucao (Scelorchilus rubecola), Chuncho (Glacidium nanum), Southern Tapaculo (Scytalopus psychopompus magellanicus), Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melancoryphus), Patagonian sierra-finch (Phrygilus patagon-icus), Condor (Vultur gryphus’), Cormorants of the Rocks (Phalacrocorax magellanicus), Diucon (Xolmis pyrope), Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis), White Heron (Ardea alba ), Swallow (Tachycinetta leucopyga or Hirundo rustica ), Huairavo (Nycticorax nycticorax), Huala (Podiceps greater), Throated Huet-huet (Pteroptochos tarnii), Lile (Phalacrocorax gaimardi), Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata), Com-mon Lesser Rhea (Rhea americana), Cormorant (cormo-rant), Jergon Giant Duck (Anas georgica spinicauda), Pejerrey Odontesthes regia), Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas gi-gas), Pinche (Zaerius pichyi-pichyi), Chilean Flicker (Colaptes fernandinae) Pitius or Colaptes fernandinae or pitius chachin-nans) Pitío (Colaptes pitius or Colaptes pitius chachinnans), Flightless steamer duck (Tachyeres pteneres Flying steamer duck (Tachyeres patachonicus), Rayadito (Aphrastura spini-cauda), Chilean Skua (Stercorarius chilensis), Tero (Vanellus chilensis)

Marine Mammals: Marine Otter (Lontra felina); Aus-tral Dolphin or Tonino (Lagenorhynchus australis); Chilean Dolphin (Cephalorhynchus eutropia); Austral River Otter (Lontra provocax); Austral fur seal (Arctocephalus australis); Common sea lion (Otaria flavescens)


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Land Mammals: Red Deer (Cervus elaphus - introduced); Huiña, Güiña, Colored or Colo Cat (Leopardus guigna); Wild Boar (Sus scrofa - introduced); Patagonian Hare (Dolichotis patagonum); Armadillo (Zaedyus pichiy); Hairy Armadillo (Chaetophractus villosus); Pudú (Pudu puda); Puma (Puma concolor); Arboreal Rat (Irenomys tarsalis); Orange-nosed Mouse (Abrothrix xanthorhinus); Long-haired Mouse (Abrothrix longipilis); European mink (Mustela lutreola - in-troduced); or Patagonian Skunk (Conepatus humboldtii); Colored or Culpeo Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus); Culpeo Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus)

Fish, Mollusks and Crustaceans: Crab (Aegla alacalufi); Cholga or Mussel (Aulacomya ater); Mussel (Mytilus chilen-sis); Shoe Mussel / Malton (Choromytilus chorus); El Dorado Conger (Genypterus blacodes); Erizo (Paracentrotus lividus); Bag Lamprey (Geotria australis); Loco (Concholepas con-cholepas); Macha (Mesodesma donacium); Austral hake or Merluza (Merluccius M. cephalus); Peladilla (Aplochiton ze-bra); Puye (Galaxias maculatus); Róbalo or Snook (Eleginops maclovinus); Chinook salmon (Onchorhynchus body - Intro-duced); Coho Salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch - Introduced); Taca or Clam (Venus antiqua); Rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss - Introduced); Fario trout (Salmo trutta fario - Intro-duced); Brown Trout (Salmo trutta - Introduced)


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palena - queulat cultural area (aysén, an undiscovered patagonia)

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