dining2010

SANTA CRUZ

/Dining

Santa Cruz Weekly115 Cooper St.

Santa Cruz, 95060Phone: 831.457.9000

Fax: 831.457.5828

EditorTraci Hukill

WriterChristina Waters

ProofreaderJeanne Schuster

PhotographersCurtis CartierBrian HarkerJenn Ireland

CoverChef Charlie Parker of

Cellar Door Café Photo by Jenn Ireland

DesignerTabi Zarrinnaal

PublisherDebra Whizin

Account ExecutivesAlice Colby

Chuck Ryder Ilana Rauch-Packer

Jocelyn MacNeil

President/CEODan Pulcrano

Dining in Santa CruzRestaurant reviews by award-winning food critic Christina Waters

O ne of the deep pleasures of life on the Central Coast is the cuisine. Fresh seafood, sustainably harvested produce and vivacious Santa Cruz Mountain wines are the calling cards here. They show up everywhere: in spicy Thai

salads, in a delicate appetizer-and-wine pairing and in soul-satisfying main dishes tuned to seasonal themes. This volume gathers recent reviews by lauded food critic Christina Waters from the pages of Santa Cruz Weekly highlighting exciting new restaurants as well as longtime local favorites. We hope you enjoy this guide and all the varied flavors of Santa Cruz County.

N E W & N OT E WO RT H Y

Aquarius California Cuisine 6

Cellar Door Café California Cuisine 8

La Posta Italian 10

Oswald California Cuisine 12

Hawgs Seafood 14

Pearl of the Ocean Sri Lankan 16

LO CA L FAVO R I T ES

515 California Cuisine 18

Bittersweet Bistro New American 20

Café Mare Italian 22

Clouds California Cuisine 24

The Greek Mediterranean 26

Gabriella Café California Cuisine 28

Hoffman’s Bakery Café American 30

Kawa Sushi & Roll Sushi 32

Real Thai Thai 34

Ristorante Avanti Italian 36

Walnut Avenue Café American 38

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Aquarian CuisineThe Dream Inn’s gorgeous new oceanfront restaurant is a delectable visual feast

T HE sunny resort that is the Dream Inn still perches like a golden sandcastle along West Cliff Drive. Only now the spectacular view of wharf and waves is available through the picture windows of Aquarius. Chef Philippe Breneman,

formerly of Ventana Inn, is at the helm of the playfully modernist dining room, creating dishes as lovely as the sleek orange-and-sand-toned interior.

We started with a luscious mezze platter ($8) of tzatziki, hummus and tapenade served with a little basket of warm pita bread. From a roster including organic chicken breast, pasta, local Petrale sole and Meyer New York strip steak, we chose the niçoise composed of seared sustainably harvested ahi, slender green beans, fingerling potatoes and a lovely hard-poached egg. Chopped Kalamata tapenade added plenty of zip ($26). My special of Maine day boat scallops was a visual knockout. Three scallops, sautéed to a glistening bronze, were paired with three plump squares of exceptional yellow watermelon. Each cube of ripe melon was topped with a knot of prosciutto and a sprig of arugula. A mint-inflected vinaigrette surrounded each item ($28).

Simply being in this room is a pleasure, especially at sunset, where you can sip your wine and watch the surf turn to pink and gold. Time for a visit, yes?

AQUARIUS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 175 WEST CLIFF DR., SANTA CRUZ | 831.460.5012 AQUARIUS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 175 WEST CLIFF DR., SANTA CRUZ | 831.460.5012

Door PrizeEven for master of reinvention Randall Grahm, the Cellar Door is a knockout

A FTER three meals at the smart Cellar Door Café, the sleek eatery in Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room, I only wish I could dine there every Friday. On one occasion, I sampled a range of what chef Charlie

Parker has up his wunderkind sleeve—from pork belly topped with house-smoked salmon roe to a salad of local greens, multicolored beets, fennel, hazelnuts and pecorino. Desserts included warm olive oil cake with stewed apricots and lemon pound cakes layered with organic strawberries and rose-scented cream. The flavor-driven list of small plates—applewood-smoked fingerling potatoes with aioli, pizzas du jour, cheese plates, cured seafoods—is available daily from noon on. But it’s the three-course, prix fixe cafe menu that captures my attention. The concept is simple and convivial. Diners opting for the family-style prix fixe dinners are seated at communal tables. Dishes arrive on large platters, designed to be passed and shared. You choose your wine from the chalkboard menu.

The foods lean deeply into each of their flavor components at Cellar Door. Parker knows how to synergize the complex minerality of Grahm’s wines, adding gorgeous flavor moves without grandstanding. In each course, the wines and the foods marry brilliantly.

CELLAR DOOR CAFÉ CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 328 INGALLS ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.425.4518CELLAR DOOR CAFÉ CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 328 INGALLS ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.425.4518

1141 Soquel Avenue @ Seabright Ave.11 am–11 pm • 7 days a week

426-5664 • Santa Cruzwww.charliehongkong.com

Organic Noodle & Rice BowlsLove your body, eat organic

GOLD Best Cheap Eats

La Nuova PostaNew La Posta chef Katherine Stern lights up the culinary landscape with authentic Italian accents

I T WAS a dark and stormy night when we cozied in to La Posta to sample a menu newly invigorated by chef Katherine Stern. Bringing an impressive résumé—including a stint at a two-star Michelin kitchen in Montemaro, Italy—

Stern’s touch was immediately evident. From a “recession-busting” $7/quarter liter Montepulciano d’Abruzzo to a racy Meyer lemon crostata, our meal at La Posta was flat-out flawless.

We started with an antipasto of prosciutto di San Daniella with Fuyu persimmons ($9)—a gorgeous juxtaposition of salty, lean cured ham and the sweet-tart winter fruit. The two starters were gorgeous together, the vermilion tones playing off the greens, and the flavors complemented each other beautifully. Our two main dishes arrived at the same time and freshly prepared. Oozing juices, my rare duck breast had been astutely joined by a rustic braise of lentils in red wine and fresh Bloomsdale spinach glistening with garlic ($24). Our other entree was easily the best single plate in town: hanger steak sliced into crimson strips with roast cannellini beans crisp with a breadcrumb topping and moist with tomato sauce. Small white turnips bearing their dark green stems topped the beef ($23). Again, the season brilliantly captured in smart flavor groupings. Welcome to chef Katherine Stern, whose menu I intend to explore again and again.

LA POSTA ITALIAN CUISINE | 538 SEABRIGHT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2782LA POSTA ITALIAN CUISINE | 538 SEABRIGHT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2782

The Return of OswaldAn old favorite in a new location

G ONE are the high brick walls, the minibistro intimacy and those wild scarlet paintings. But after a long hiatus, Oswald is back, along with chef Damani Thomas, manager Keet Beck and a short, sweet menu of

brasserie satisfaction. An elegantly structured prawn and orzo salad was a revelation on both of our

visits ($12). Glistening in a pool of brilliant tangerine carrot broth, the oval pasta joined tiny cubes of apple and potato, punctuated by microdice of garlic chive. A trio of perfect sautéed prawns crowned this showpiece dish.

A stylish and unexpected creation of mushroom “bread pudding” soufflé, studded with coarsely chopped Meyer lemon peel and bitter greens, was a hit with each diner at our table ($20). Soft yet substantial, earthy and moist—enough mouthfeel and chutzpah to convert a carnivore. My favorite entree remains the seared diver scallops—enormous enough that two sufficed for a complete meal ($25). A sensuous braise of potatoes and fennel formed the textural, and aromatic, backdrop for the tumescent shellfish.

Desserts were all excellent, including a sexy molten chocolate soufflé—not too sweet, just à point ($10). The food was always the draw at Oswald, and it is still.

OSWALD CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 121 SOQUEL AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.423.7427OSWALD CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 121 SOQUEL AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.423.7427

Chowder PowerTasty seafood and conviviality at Hawgs

A FEW nights ago my three cronies and I got serious about seafood at Hawgs. First off was the smoked salmon plate ($13), not only a house specialty but a bargain to boot. A slice of succulent salmon fillet arrived lightly smoked

and presented with a salad of mixed baby greens, garlicky crostini and a pot of horseradish cream. Another appetizer of baked oysters Asiago ($13) dotted a landscape of rock salt. Browned and bubbly on top, the oysters were succulent underneath their toppings of cheese and layer of spinach. Along with a large slice of lemon, it made a fine match for a cold beer. A main course salad offered an acreage of baby spinach punctuated with sea scallops. Sautéed golden brown, yet firm and moist, the scallops were heightened by a warm shallot vinaigrette spiked with pancetta—a bargain for $12.

My dinner special—three plump crabcakes for $14—was a winner. Obviously freshly prepared, it arrived with a spicy aioli tartar sauce and a luscious salad of mixed greens. The crabcakes were ultramoist and showcased the expert handling of ingredients—i.e., a light touch rather than the usual tons of breading and fillers. Even sharing with the group, I still took one crabcake home for lunch the next day.

Attractive staff, cozy booths, well-made cocktails and a menu that expands bar food into tasty new territory—Hawgs has all the makings of a new Westside hangout.

HAWGS SEAFOOD BAR SEAFOOD | 1917 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.458.FISHHAWGS SEAFOOD BAR SEAFOOD | 1917 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.458.FISH

Pearl in an OceanSpice-laden vegetarian dishes are the specialty at this tiny Sri Lankan dining room

S MALL and intimate, with an attractive assortment of artwork adorning the coral-hued walls, Pearl’s little Sri Lankan dining room makes a special invitation to those who like vegetarian dining, with plenty of lamb

and chicken on offer as well. Our meal began with Irene’s appetizer of chile chickpea ($6) and my entree of Sri Lankan–style noodles, plus griddle-baked paan ($5), a huge flatbread much like pita, only softer. The accompanying garlic dip gave the bread some welcome oomph. Served in a white bowl, the chickpeas had been simmered in chile, coconut milk and mustard seeds, with added kick from plenty of garlic.

My Sri Lankan–style noodles ($18) arrived with a large plate of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce. The entree was a vast plate of noodles tossed in coriander-and-ginger-intensive spices and inflected with carrots and tomatoes. Chicken, $2 extra, arrived in a heavily spiced sauce. Our other entree of lamb curry ($16.50) finally arrived joined by thinly chopped and braised kale, rice and delicious chunks of lamb roasted in curry powder and almond sauce. Yellow lentil dal and extremely sweet eggplant sauté joined the other veggies, and a thin, crisp papadam sat on top of the entree, making a jaunty top note for the dish.

PEARL OF THE OCEAN SRI LANKAN CUISINE | 736 WATER ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2350PEARL OF THE OCEAN SRI LANKAN CUISINE | 736 WATER ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2350

Magic NumberCozy, casual and chic—the scene at 515 makes an appealing offer

M OST people go for the plush velour couches, the sparkling firelight and the romantic deck. Oh, and let’s not forget the sophisticated lineup of cocktails. But we went to dine, and we were happy with the overall results.

We took the suggestion of our attentive waitperson and split an order of the house signature appetizer, Lamjoun ($10). Think Middle Eastern pizza, and you won’t be far off. Rustically shaped flatbread has been lavishly spread with spiced lamb before being strewn with minced red bell pepper and feta. Rich with cumin and garlic, this is a wonderful—and big—starter. We also worked our way briskly through a second opening plate of distinctive and spicy black tiger prawns ($9). I loved this dish. Six plump grilled prawns, three for each of us, arrived in an oregano-intensive verde sauce and a slick of chile oil that left our lips tingling. Since I’m one of those who does like it hot, I made a mental note to return just for this dish.

Our entree arrived with flourish. A burger by the name of Bleu d’Auvergne (named for its key ingredient, a pungent French blue cheese), it rode a toasted onion roll and was accompanied by a huge thicket of french fries ($11). Serious burger. Delicious burger. Bargain burger. Mmmm.

515 KITCHEN & COCKTAILS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 515 CEDAR ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.425.5051515 KITCHEN & COCKTAILS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 515 CEDAR ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.425.5051

Beautiful BittersweetBig-city dining with an intimate attitude keeps Bittersweet Bistro on target

T HE MENU here cuts a wide and appealing swath through New American cuisine, ranging from porcini-encrusted mahi-mahi to wood-fired pizzas and ribs. My oak-roasted artichoke—very large, gooey with balsamic vinaigrette

and pricey ($10)—arrived along with a dipping sauce of lemon aioli ($10). Maureen’s cup of butternut squash soup was soothing and earthy, topped with a decorative float of cream on top mimicking the floral design of an expert caffe latté ($7). Platters arrived with our entrees, gorgeous to look at and steaming hot from the kitchen. An eyeful, as well as a plateful, my special filet mignon ($25) proved to be a tasty updated classic, offering the added intensity of a rich Gorgonzola whiskey glaze and a colorful sauté of sliced carrots, beans and squash. Maureen’s generous platter of lamb chops ($24) arrived bathed in a cabernet demi-glace (perhaps a hint of cognac?). The plump, succulent chops, were, like my rare filet, perfectly cooked to order. Being a carnivore does have its moments.

We managed to save room for a fresh, very moist wedge of chocolate mousse cake thickly frosted with decadent chocolate ganache and served with a scoop of housemade chocolate whiskey ice cream ($11)—all incredibly delicious.

BITTERSWEET BISTRO NEW AMERICAN CUISINE | 787 RIO DEL MAR BLVD., APTOS | 831.662.9799BITTERSWEET BISTRO NEW AMERICAN CUISINE | 787 RIO DEL MAR BLVD., APTOS | 831.662.9799

Italian by the SeaCafé Mare carries on the European tradition of f lavorful, leisurely lunches

C AFÉ MARE’S spacious dining room always has a soothing effect. The staff provides plenty of space for in-depth conversation without ignoring patrons’ needs. And the location is perfect for Pacific Avenue sightseeing.

Specials last week, when Sabrina and I met for lunch, included swordfish, pork chops with juniper berries and a pasta of orecchiette with sausage and tomatoes. The pasta dish immediately caught my eye, but Sabrina took her time with Café Mare’s well-appointed menu of primi and secondi. We decided to start with an insalata di endivia (endive salad, with Gorgonzola, cherry tomatoes and walnuts) for $12—texturally terrific and blatantly addictive.

Sabrina finally settled on the melanzane parmigiana ($14), which turned out to be utterly authentic. Served without garnish or frills (which Italians consider to be rococo superfluities), a quivering creation of multilayered cheese, sauce and eggplant arrived. Meanwhile, my orecchiette—another substantial plate—arrived nicely al dente and lavishly studded with garlic, tomatoes and slices of delicious sausage.

Had it been dinner, we would have managed a proper toast to the entire concept of discreet, unpretentious, well-made Italian cuisine. Very much like that created at Café Mare, where—sooner or later—all of Santa Cruz strolls by.

CAFÉ MARE ITALIAN CUISINE | 740 FRONT ST, SANTA CRUZ | 831.458.1212CAFÉ MARE ITALIAN CUISINE | 740 FRONT ST, SANTA CRUZ | 831.458.1212

Weekly Specials

(831) 662-7120One Seascape Resort Drive, Aptos (Across from Seascape Village onSeascape Blvd.)

www.SeascapeResort.com

THURSDAY

Lobster Night* – $19.95

SUNDAY–THURSDAY

Neighbors Night* – from $14.95

FRIDAY & SATURDAY

Prime Rib Special* – $18.95

MONDAY–FRIDAY

Lunch Specials* – $6.95

*Not available on holidays

Visit SanderlingsRestaurant.com for specials & menus

Silver Linings at CloudsClouds Downtown continues to sail

C LOUDS does a fine job making the cocktail set feel right at home, and it has devised a surefire menu of crowd-pleasers loaded with seafoods, steaks and high-flavor small plates. Our dining quartet met at the bar last

week and, with one eye on the NFL game above the bar, we started with glasses of Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Petite Syrah ($10) and some wicked caramel appletinis ($8).

As usual there was a lot to like, especially the appetizer of blackened ahi with Napa cabbage slaw ($15.95) and the wide-body Church Street burger with added bacon ($1) and a garden salad (the deal of the century for $10.95). The burger was solid gold, a quintessential creation of Creekstone Farms Black Angus, loaded with lots of lean bacon, slabs of tomatoes, pickles and lettuce. It came with a sparkling salad of baby greens in a well-made balsamic vinaigrette.

Susan’s entree of panko-encrusted sashimi-grade ahi was nicely done, if tamely flavored ($24.95). The ahi itself was exceptional, and the bed of sticky sushi-style rice was a great foil for plum sauce and slender baby carrots. I actually preferred Angie’s huge “appetizer” portion of ahi, sliced along a bed of outrageous Napa cabbage slaw slathered with wasabi vinaigrette. Take note—this is a very generously portioned destination dish.

A luxurious Kahlua and coffee ($7) offered a very warming way to end another enjoyable meal at Clouds.

CLOUDS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 110 CHURCH ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.429.2000CLOUDS CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 110 CHURCH ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.429.2000

Greek to MeAuthentic Greek flavors are worth their weight in retsina at the Greek

T HE GREEK offers a melodious echo of its progenitor, Vasili’s—the restaurant that launched a thousand spontaneous dancing parties and retsina afterglows. Well, The Greek is the new Mediterranean kid in downtown

Santa Cruz, and it’s deliciously armed with the irrepressible menu that made Vasili’s a local legend.

My lunch date had already devoured a Gilroy’s worth of garlic in the form of electrifyingly tart tzatziki and pita by the time I arrived 15 minutes late. But she was happy to pile into yet another plate of this addictive and aromatic variation on flatbread with some delicious soft stuff to dip it into. Traci’s chicken kebab plate ($9.95) offered a huge oval platter wall-to-wall with the spices and textures of Greek cooking. Warm pita dusted with paprika cushioned a spike of tender, grilled chicken redolent of oregano, garlic and lemon. But my moussaka ($10.95) was even better. The Greek does moussaka worth its weight in authentic flavors. Served room temperature, which is the correct culinary style, this life-affirming creation was dense with untold layers of spice, tomato, garlic and red pepper flavor. The creamy bechamel sauce layer was spot on. I couldn’t stop eating this dish.

THE GREEK MEDITERRANEAN | 435 FRONT ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.466.9990THE GREEK MEDITERRANEAN | 435 FRONT ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.466.9990

Charmed by GabriellaThe downtown landmark was never better

O IL paintings line the graceful rooms; white cloths and fresh flowers top the tables. And between a fine lineup of California wines and a nightly menu showcasing local specialty items, Gabriella offers arguably the best

dining in town.We began with incredible starters of local halibut crudo ($12) and shaved

cucumber involtini filled with albacore conserve ($11). Glistening white cubes of halibut, topping a rich bed of avocado, were grouped in a pretty quartet. Cucumber juice and preserved Meyer lemon, flecked with nori salt, provided a delicate sauce for this supple creation. A lineup of shaved cucumber cylinders arrived, each pale green involtini filled with a rich stuffing of albacore and frosted with aioli. Sprigs of peppery watercress and a splendid, spicy salsa verde formed calligraphy around each roll of cucumber in a sexy bit of tart and creamy dialogue.

Jack feasted on an appetizer portion of Devil’s Gulch pork meatballs ($10) slathered in a sauce of vibrant roasted dry-farm tomatoes. My dish of pastured pork belly from River Dog Farms arrived in crispy layers, unctuous and juicy underneath ($22). Straddling a bed of bitter greens and pancetta-braised shelling beans, the designer pork ’n’ beans proved ridiculously flavorful.

A slice of Strauss Family yogurt cheesecake was miraculous ($10). A few triangles of amazing pine-nut brittle and a topping of sea salt turned the creamy pastry into the best dessert of the year.

GABRIELLA CAFÉ CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 910 CEDAR ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.1677GABRIELLA CAFÉ CALIFORNIA CUISINE | 910 CEDAR ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.1677

Daily Specials$10.95 Dinner$6.95 LunchEveryday of the week!

Jazz NightlyDuring Dinner Hours 6:30-8:30pm

Happy Hour

Mon-Fri 5-6pmHalf Priced Appetizers & $3.50 Winesby the Glass & $2.50 Premium Beers

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Everyday 8am-9pm

www.hoffmansbakery.net

Welcome to Hoffman’s where family & food go together

lsaicey SplDai

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Classic ComfortsSumptuous breakfasts and a tempting bakery case at Hoffman’s

OME people are just fine with an omelette, but my idea of breakfast wanders into schizophrenic territory. I always want pancakes. But I also always want eggs done the way I love them—over medium. The answer is Hoffman’s Two

by Two, which provides two buttermilk pancakes, two eggs and two pieces of bacon. All the food groups for $9.

Hoffman’s showcases tempting European pastries in its long glass counters. But lots of locals flock to the spacious, upholstered booths for breakfast gatherings. As we sipped our Café Americanos ($2) and waited for our breakfast plates, we checked out the Hoffman’s Happy Hour placard at the table. Hmm, this looks interesting, we thought. Crabcakes for $6. Steak quesadilla for $4. Pilsner Urquell for $2.50? All of that and more on weekdays from 5 to 6pm? Not bad.

Jack’s Spanish Omelette ($9) was abundant without being scary huge. The freshly made three-egg omelette—filled with green chiles, black olives and Jack cheese—held down the center of the plate, with salsas along one side and the golden-hued homefries on the other. My pancakes brought me true restaurant-breakfast joy, and the eggs were perfect. In short, our breakfast at Hoffman’s was exactly what breakfast should be. The sweet and the salty, the pliant and the crisp. Excellent coffee and swift service—thank you, Hoffman’s.

HOFFMAN’S BAKERY CAFÉ AMERICAN CUISINE | 1102 PACIFIC AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.420.0135HOFFMAN’S BAKERY CAFÉ AMERICAN CUISINE | 1102 PACIFIC AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.420.0135

Tender Loving KawaA new sushi palace makes Westsiders a wasabi-laced offer they can’t refuse

L ITTLE red lights twinkle over the glass counters filled with fat loaves of maguro and electric orange tobiko at Kawa, where we found ourselves on a recent night. An opening salvo of gyoza—crunchy, succulent, fried half-moon

dumplings—grabbed our attention ($5.50). These were utterly fantastic. Arriving hot and crisp, the gyoza were filled with a happy blend of shrimp and pork, and perfectly executed. Tender and moist inside, crystalline outside. Our helpful, swift and well-trained server soon produced the main attraction: a square plate laden with rows of beautifully crafted sushi. A lineup of the Kawa roll and another of the Wonderful roll ($4.95 each) supported a central column of hamachi nigiri ($5.25) and saba nigiri (3.95). Off to one side, providing aesthetic counterpoint, was a sextet of plump spicy tuna maki rolls called Dynamite ($3.50). A fistful of highly aromatic pickled ginger sat next to a ball of chartreuse wasabi paste. But not for long. It took me under three seconds to plunder the artfully arranged platter, placing one of the Kawa rolls into a shallow pool of wasabi and soy. Clearing the sinuses was never this delicious.

KAWA SUSHI & ROLL SUSHI | 1520 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.466.9723KAWA SUSHI & ROLL SUSHI | 1520 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.466.9723

Keeping It RealReal Thai Kitchen still delivers the spice

E VEN THOUGH its original founders are gone, Real Thai Kitchen is still capable of creating authentic dishes laced with the enduring flavors of chile, basil, ginger and garlic. On a recent excursion to the midtown eatery,

the three of us had our mouths set for spice. And spice is what we got. Things got interesting starting with one of my Thai favorites, the silver noodle

salad ($10.25). This was a knockout orchestration of cellophane bean thread noodles tossed with chiles, garlic, lemongrass, mint, cilantro and dried fermented shrimp, with fresh romaine chopped on the side, plus three fat prawns all strewn with ground chicken. Cilantro festooned it all. A huge portion, it was satisfyingly hot and spicy yet somehow cool, in temperature and attitude, at the same time. We oohed and aahed and wiped our brows.

Two other shared entrees impressed us, especially the house signature Spicy Basil Duck ($14.45), loaded with jalapeños, carrots, basil, chiles, strips of rich, succulent duck, lots of crisp green beans and fresh slices of red bell pepper all wok’d together in a complex curry sauce. Beautiful to look at, it was richly perfumed by the complex sauce. Overall, Real Thai delivers a meal of high-wattage flavors—which is, after all, what you want.

REAL THAI KITCHEN THAI CUISINE | 1632 SEABRIGHT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.427.2559REAL THAI KITCHEN THAI CUISINE | 1632 SEABRIGHT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.427.2559

Westside WonderFor more than two decades, Ristorante Avanti has treated Santa Cruz to fresh, vibrantly flavored seasonal cuisine

A RECENT meal fanned the flames of our longstanding affair with the rustic dining room at Ristorante Avanti. To celebrate the opening of Dungeness crab season, the evening’s special appetizer involved a baked avocado stuffed with fresh, sweet

Dungeness crab blended with gossamer cream ($11). Who knew that warm avocado could take on a deepened richness and nuttiness? And what better to go with the celestial crab? On the side were infant strands of wild arugula tossed in a Meyer lemon vinaigrette and a crimson orb of beets.

Jack’s pan-roasted rainbow trout arrived crispy skin side up, a moist and delicate creation arranged in a diagonal tower atop a bowl of braised artichokes, shelling beans, a few tomatoes and a simple salsa of green herbs ($18). For me there was a lovely plate of Marin Sun Farms lamb chops ($23), sweet and tender, on a bed of deeply roasted root vegetables accompanied by sautéed cabbage and mashed fava beans laced with garlic and parmesan. The bright green beans winked at the pale pink lamb—a brilliant pairing, and so good that I longed for more. We closed with the Gorgonzola dolce ($6), a cheese so mellow in its boldness that it can afford to gloat. The rich, creamy cheese arrived with sliced apples, a single perfect date and walnuts. Seasonal harvests, local seafood, pastured lamb, aged cheese, interesting wines. Avanti manages to make even consistency taste sexy.

RISTORANTE AVANTI ITALIAN CUISINE | 1711 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.427.0135RISTORANTE AVANTI ITALIAN CUISINE | 1711 MISSION ST., SANTA CRUZ | 831.427.0135

Eye OpenerWalnut Avenue Café continues the breakfast traditions we can’t live without

W ARM, friendly service goes a long way toward getting the day off to a positive start, and the minute we claimed our booth at Walnut Avenue Café, our server arrived and suggested coffee. A double cappuccino

($3.45), a regular coffee ($1.95) and a $2.10 glass of grapefruit juice were brought in no time. Meanwhile, I indulged in a bit of two-world nutritional ideology. Yes, I needed bacon after that workout we’d just had at the gym, but I also craved multigrain pancakes with boysenberry sauce ($7.35). So I simply ordered a side of bacon ($2.95) as well as some genuine maple syrup ($1 extra) for backup, in case the berry sauce didn’t hit the spot. (Oh, but it did.)

Meanwhile, Jack departed from his usual omelette strategy—Walnut Avenue offers a huge array of omelettes. But Jack craved beans, and one of the house specialties, Huevos Mexicanos, served with flour tortillas and tons of black beans, answered all his flavor needs for $8.45.

The pancakes were the kind that breakfast fantasies are made of. Golden-brown and large without being ridiculous, the trio of nine-grain hotcakes was joined by a pitcher of sensitively made boysenberry sauce, full of berries and not too sweet. As for Jack, he discovered a terrific variation on the all-star huevos rancheros classic, with a salsa that added just enough kick to make things interesting.

WALNUT AVENUE CAFÉ AMERICAN CUISINE | 106 WALNUT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2307WALNUT AVENUE CAFÉ AMERICAN CUISINE | 106 WALNUT AVE., SANTA CRUZ | 831.457.2307