specialty chemicals and dyes used in the apparel and footwear industry to watch restricted...
TRANSCRIPT
Specialty Chemicals and Dyes
used in the
Apparel and Footwear Industry
to watch
Restricted Substances Seminar
September 21, 2006
Sheraton Hotel, Dongguan, China
Outline
The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions
Selected Laws & Regulations for the Textile & Leather Industry
Classes of Restricted Substances
Selected examples of Restricted Substances
Azo Dyes
Phthalates
Organic Tin Compounds
Formaldehyde
General Solution/Guideline
Chemicals
WorkerWaste Water
SolidWaste
Waste Air
Chemicals in Textile & Leather
Environment
The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions
RISK = EXPOSURE x HAZARD
EXPOSURE: defined by application, composition of textile chemical
emission reduction measures, workplace hygiene measures
HAZARD: defined by toxicological/ecological profile
The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for RestrictionsThe Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions
Strategy to minimize RISK:
Avoid Hazard
Minimize Exposure
Selected Laws & Regulations for the Textile & Leather Industry
Council Directive 75/442/EECTR for Waste Management
Air Emission reduction “TA-Luft”VOC Directive 1999/13/EC
Formaldehyde - IARC GB/T 18885-2002, GB 18041-2001
German Goods Ordinance EU Directive 2003/11/EC (Flame Retardants)
Commission Decision 2004/781/EC (Cd) New Phthalate Directive 2005/84/EC Council Directive 94/27/EC (Ni)
Directive 2002/61/EC (Azo Dyes)
Waste Water Ordinance – AbwV TEGEWA Voluntary Commitment
Directive 2003/53/EC (NPE)Detergent Directive 648/2004/EC
Council Directive 76/464/EEC
GHS, REACH, Kyoto List Commission Directive 2001/59/EC
Directive 2006/15/EC (MAK) White Book on Chemicals Directive 98/8/EC (Biocides)
California Proposition 65
etc.
Classes of Restricted Substances
Formaldehyde
Heavy Metals
Pesticides
Biological Active Products
Biocides
Monomers
Phthalates
Organic Tin Compounds
Dyes and Amines
Classes of Restricted Substances
Halogenated Compounds
Flame Retardants
PVC
APEO
Chlorinated Bleaching Agents
Solvents
Isocyanates
Asbestos
Dioxins and Furans
Outline
The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions
Selected Laws & Regulations for the Textile & Leather Industry
Classes of Restricted Substances
Selected examples of Restricted Substances
Azo Dyes
Phthalates
Organic Tin Compounds
Formaldehyde
General Solution/Guideline
Selected Examples of Restricted Substances
Common Sources of Failures in Textile & Leather Processing:
- Formaldehyde
- Heavy Metals (e.g. Cadmium, Chrome VI, Lead, Nickel)
- Organic Tin Compounds
- Phthalates
- APEO
- Dangerous Azo Dyes and Carcinogenic Aryl Amines
- etc.
Selected Examples of Restricted Substances
Common Sources of Failures in Textile & Leather Processing:
- Formaldehyde
- Heavy Metals (e.g. Cadmium, Chrome VI, Lead, Nickel)
- Organic Tin Compounds
- Phthalates
- APEO
- Dangerous Azo Dyes and Carcinogenic Aryl Amines
- etc.
Azo Dyes – some are dangerous
a) Toxicology: Some dyes can have adverse effects on
humans, even can cause cancer
b) Laws: Council Directive 76/769/EEC and
German Ordinance on Materials
c) RSL: Aromatic Amines
e.g. H&M (30 ppm each)
Levis (n.d. DL=30 ppm each)
Nike (20 ppm each)
d) Sources in Textiles and Leather:
- Colorants: Pigments (textile coating) & Dyes
Dangerous Dyes
e.g. Levis (n.d. DL=5 ppm each)
H&M (1 ppm each)
Nike (5 ppm each)
Azo Dyes – some are dangerous Solution
High Colour Fastness (staining)
to water, to acidic perspiration, to alkaline perspiration, to dry rubbing
Proper selection of dyes"Lists" , e.g. Oeko-Tex Standard 100Recommendations of dye producers and associations (e.g. ETAD)
Avoid respective dangerous Azo Dyes, ask for certificates from the chemical supplier.
BASF does not manufacture or supply
restricted Azo colorants
Organic Tin Compounds
a) Toxicology: - harmful effects on immune and reproductive
system
- skin irritation
- teratogenic (e.g. for snails)
- aqua-toxic
b) Laws: banned by Council Directive 91/338/EEC
c) RSL: e.g. H&M: e.g. ban of TBT and others
Levis: e.g. ban of TBT and others
Nike: TBT and/or TPhT
Organic Tin Compounds
d) Sources in Textiles and Leather:
- TBT as catalyst to manufacture polyurethane dispersions
(Adhesives based on PU-chemistry)
- TBT as biocide for storage
- anti-odor agent
Organic Tin CompoundsSolution
Ask for organic tin free solutions from suppliers, ask for
certificate.
BASF offers organic tin free PU dispersions.
Phthalates
a) Toxicology: - suspected sex change chemicals
- suspected carcinogen
b) Laws: EU Directive 2005/84/EC (will take effect from
16th January 2007)
DEHP
BBP
DBT
DINP 0.1% by mass of the plasticized material
DIDP in toys and childcare articles which can be
DNOP placed in mouth by children
0.1% by mass of the plasticized materialin toys and childcare articles
Phthalates
c) RSL: e.g. H&M: e.g. DINP, DEHP and others
Levis: DINP and DEHP
Nike: DINP, DEHP and others
d) Sources in Textiles and Leather:
- plasticizer for PVC
Textiles: - plastisol prints
- for pigment printing and coating as softener
Leather: - PVC mock leather, laminates
Phthalates Solution
Avoid PVC, ask for certificates from chemical supplier.
BASF offers phthalate free solutions in both
printing and coating systems
BASF's experts can support phase out of
phthalates
Formaldehyde
a)Toxicology: - irritation of skin, eyes and mucous membranes - can cause allergies
- Indication of nasopharyngeal carcinogenic effect
(IARC classified FAH as “carcinogenic to humans”, June 15th, 2004)
b) Laws: Beside general laws, especially for Textiles: Japan – LAW 112 (n.d.)
China – GB 1804-2001 (Oeko Tex Standard 100 limits)
c) RSL: Textile: Restrictions often refer to Law 112 or Oeko Tex Standard 100 (kids 20 ppm , adults 75 ppm)
Leather: Automotive Industry (VDA): <10 ppm Shoe industry: < 150 ppm (children < 50 ppm)
Formaldehyde
d) Sources in Textiles and Leather:
Textiles: - Binders and fixing agents in pigment printing and
coating
- Cross-linking agents (non-iron, wrinkle free)
- Dyeing auxiliaries, e.g. fixing agents
- Preservative
Leather: - Tanning auxiliaries and cross linkers
- Fixing agents
Formaldehyde Solution:
e) Solutions: Pay attention to required FAH-Test Method!!!! - Supply free-of or low FAH auxiliaries- Consider an extra-washing step- Follow application suggestion for low FAH levels in
garment/leather- Take care of package and other additional FAH-sources
BASF offers a wide range of FAH free or low FAH chemicals. Low FAH-recipes are available and examined for textile and leather products.
Outline
The Fate of Chemicals – Reason for Restrictions
Selected Laws & Regulations for the Textile & Leather Industry
Classes of Restricted Substances
Selected examples of Restricted Substances
Azo Dyes
Phthalates
Organic Tin Compounds
Formaldehyde
General Solution/Guideline
General Solution/Guideline
General solution/guideline: Choose right supplier!
How can you identify the right supplier?
Knows Laws & Restrictions (and RSL) Provides correctly labeled Products Provides SDS Provides Technical Information sheets and Technical Support Provides Training and Support on Application, Ecological & Toxicological aspects etc.
More easy: Supplier has committed himself to Sustainable Development
General Solution/Guideline
So
ciet
y
Eco
log
y
Eco
no
my
Sustainable Development
“Sustainable Development is a process of developing that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”(United Nations, Brundtland Report, 1978)
BASF –The Chemical
Company
BASF –The Chemical
Company
Earn a premium on our cost of capital
Help our
customers to be more
successful
From the best team in industry
Ensure sustainable
development
General Solution/Guideline
Thank you for your attention!
Jack C. W. LamManager TextilesRBU Performance Chemicals Asia PacificEmail: [email protected]: +852 2731 1287
Claudia Swoboda-Rossouw Ecology Manager Asia Technical Center, Textiles Email: [email protected]: +86 21 58611828-2855
Alfred LinIndustry Manager - FootwearAsia Technical Center, LeatherEmail:[email protected]: +86 21 58611828-2402