tk7 choice cuts

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C C CE E E EN N N N NT T T T TR R R R RA A A A AL L L L C C C Ch h h h ho o o o oi i i ic c c c ce e e e e e e e C C C C C C C C C Cu u u u u u u u ut t t t t t t ts s s s s s s s s ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ ߶ HONG KONG & MACAU T Th he e B Be es st t o of f B Bu ur rg gu un nd dy y ؋؋ ݕݕHONG KONG R Re ed d & & R Re ed d d HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4 TASTING KITCHEN #7 MAY 2013

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CCCEEEENNNNNTTTTTRRRRRAAAAALLLLCCCChhhhhoooooiiiiccccceeeeeeee CCCCCCCCCCuuuuuuuuuttttttttsssssssss

HONG KONG & MACAUTThhee BBeesstt ooff BBuurrgguunnddyy

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HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G K I T C H E N # 7 • M A Y 2 0 1 3

MA

Y 2

01

3

7

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s fi nest restaurants, greatest chefs and m

ost delicious food. CH

OIC

E C

UT

S

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starter

At Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso 1890 in Macau, Chef Alfonso Iaccarino serves this Giudia-style artichoke with buffalo mozzarella, pennyroyal mint,

black truffl e and a sauce of anchovies from Cetara.

Alfonso Iaccarino 1890

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C H O I C E C U T S

M A Y 2 0 1 3 • I S S U E # 7

Tasting Kitchenwww.tasting-kitchen.com

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East StreetQuarry Bay, Hong KongTel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’sfi nest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

on our cover

Roasted Challans duck breast, foie gras and orange skin packed with duck confi t and orange jelly, prepared at Mandarin Oriental, Macau by Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand. For more of Chef Bugnand’s extraordinary cooking, turn to page 42.

42

Photograph by David Hartung©Tasting Kitchen 2013. All rights reserved

SUBSCRIPTIONS [email protected]

PRINTINGInfi nity Printing Company Limited3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTIONBlackstone Concepts Communication+ 852 3481 0518

Mark HammonsFOUNDER & [email protected]

Jenny ManGROUP GENERAL MANAGER & [email protected]

Jeff HammonsEDITOR AT [email protected]

David HartungDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Helene WongCHINESE EDITOR

Lucy MorganMamie ChenAnnabel JacksonSarah DallofCrystal TaiCONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jean AlbertiCHEF AT LARGE [email protected]

Alicia BeebeART DIRECTOR

Joey CheangEDITORIAL COORDINATOR

Kennis YuenPRODUCTION MANAGER

Anita LeongCIRCULATION MANAGER

Ivan LamACCOUNTANT

GROUP [email protected]

Gerard William WhittyASST. SALES DIRECTORHK: +852 5196 0253Macau: +853 6279 [email protected]

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DADA (HONG KONG) LIMITEDOFFICE UNIT B, 15TH FLOOR, NORTH POINT INDUSTRIAL BUILDING,499 KING’S ROAD, HONG KONG T (852) 2890 2823

SHOWROOM UNIT 901, 9TH FLOOR, 88 HING FAT STREET,CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG(By appointment only)

INTERNI CHINA LIMITEDSHOWROOM ROOM 109, BLOCK 1, 333 YI SHAN ROAD, SHANGHAI, CHINAT (86) 21 6090 8919 / 6090 8922

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DADA (HONG KONG) LIMITEDOFFICE UNIT B, 15TH FLOOR, NORTH POINT INDUSTRIAL BUILDING,499 KING’S ROAD, HONG KONG T (852) 2890 2823

SHOWROOM UNIT 901, 9TH FLOOR, 88 HING FAT STREET,CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG(By appointment only)

INTERNI CHINA LIMITEDSHOWROOM ROOM 109, BLOCK 1, 333 YI SHAN ROAD, SHANGHAI, CHINAT (86) 21 6090 8919 / 6090 8922

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Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This issue marks TK’s one-year

anniversary.

We founded TK to celebrate the Pearl

River Delta’s fi nest restaurants, greatest chefs,

and most delicious food, and it has been

wonderful to see our readers and partners

enthusiastically join us in that celebration.

It’s been a true pleasure to meet all of

the chefs, sommeliers, waiters, bartenders,

farmers, vintners, vendors, restaurant owners,

and everyone else who we’ve worked with and

featured over the past year.

This is a carnivorous issue – that means meat, and lots of it. To whet your

appetite, we’re serving cocktails mixed by the world’s best bartender. After that we’re

featuring beef on the bone, grass- and corn-fed beef, American and Australian and

French and Irish beef, and beef cooked into classic French and Italian and Chinese

dishes.

We also have smoked ox tongue, Spanish ham cooked Chinese style, trotters

stuffed with head meat, French lamb shoulder poached in olive oil, Bresse pigeon,

roasted duck, duck livers and chicken livers with white truffl e goose butter.

To complement the dishes, we are pouring distinctive Shiraz and Burgundy

wines paired by some of Hong Kong’s top chefs and sommeliers.

If you were just in the mood for a salad – our apologies!

Enjoy.

publisher’s note

MARK HAMMONS

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Greetings from Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue we are proud to partner

with Le French GourMay to celebrate

Bourgogne wine and cuisine in our feature

“The Best of Burgundy.”

Burgundy is said to be the heart of

French cuisine, and every chef in France has a

story about their fi rst encounter.

As a teenager I would travel every

summer with my father to a restaurant in

Burgundy called Nuits Saint Georges, which

was famous for its elegant wine and earthy

cuisine. After graduation I applied for my fi rst

job there.

My father was thrilled, but it wasn’t the restaurant’s authentic recipes for

Escargots de Bourgogne or Coq au Vin that I was after, but rather its beautiful

sommelière.

Life in Burgundy has a rural rhythm, and every Wednesday hunters in dark

green vests would come to the restaurant loaded with fresh hare and bottles of

Burgundy wine that they had selected to pair with their game.

My fi rst lesson as a chef was how to skin a hare; the second was how to make

the hare specialty of the house: Civet de Lievre Ivre de Pommard aux baies de Cassis.

On Saturdays we would marinate the hare for twelve hours in the hunters’

wine, and then use the same wine to prepare the sauce and serve with the dish.

On Sunday mornings the hunters would return once again, this time to pick

up the steaming pots of Civet de Lievre for their Sunday feasts.

Mondays were off, but I spent them in the restaurant with my new friend as

we sampled our way through the cellar, establishing my life-long fondness for the

genuine people, honest food, and graceful wine of Burgundy.

chef’s note

JEAN ALBERTI

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contents

T A S T I N G N E W S 16-26

Let It Breathe 28 • Slice of Life 30 • Floral Firmament 32

Cooking with Miele 34 • Genie in a Bottle 36

Seasonal Inspiration 40 • French Twist 42 • Boning Up 48

Advanced Italian 52 • Living the Dream 56 • Choice Cuts 60

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6052

5648

4240

36

3028

34

32

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contents

Red & Red 64 • House of Meat 76

The Best of Burgundy 80

Spiritual Experience 90 • Wine Detective 92

W H E R E T O F I N D T K 96

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104100

92

90

76

64

80

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tastic location. tastic dining.

tastic view. tastic spa.

Mandarin Oriental, Macau Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau For reservations call +853 8805 8822 or visit www.mandarinoriental.com

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tasting news

Bienvenidos a Barcelona

As Good as Gold

HONG KONG’S HAUTE DINING scene welcomes a bit of Barcelona with the recent soft opening of Catalunya Hong Kong. The 8,000 sq. ft. restaurant and bar offers the ambiance of Spain’s trendy tapas bars and the flavors of traditional Catalan dishes such as Spanish tortillas and Segovia-style roasted suckling pig. An extensive wine list and appropriately named cocktails (Flamenco Martini anyone?) along with modern versions of classic desserts like torrija bread pudding round out the experience.

Catalunya8,000

(tapas)(tortillas)Catalunya

(torrija)Catalunya

Catalunya, G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 32 +852 2866 7900

MARCO POLO’S FABLED BOOK of travels may be behind the name at the new Il Milione Bar & Ristorante Italiano, but it’s the man at the kitchen counter who’s responsible for introducing refi ned Umbrian cuisine to Hong Kong diners. Chef Marco Gubbiotti is putting his own twist on his hometown’s cooking traditions with dishes like pan-fried pigeon breast on warm snow pea salad, and beef tartare accompanied by a puntarelle chicory and anchovies salad with deep fried egg yolk. Eschewing heavy cream and butter, Umbrian cuisine is focused instead on perfect produce, including truffles and the region’s famous olive oils. Known as liquid gold, they’re sure to make Gubbiotti’s menu shine.

Il Milione Bar & Ris-torante Italiano , Marco Gubbiotti (Umbria)

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Il Milione Bar & Ristorante Italiano, G16-21, G/F, Hutchison House, 10 Harcourt Road, Central, Hong Kong,

10 G16-21, +852 2481 1120

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tasting news

A Taste of America

of China. Sha Tin’s Chef Ngai is joined by Chef Situ of the Penthouse Restaurant at Grand Hyatt Guangzhou, Chef Liang of Song Shan Tea House at Hyatt Regency Dongguan and a guest chef from the 1881 restaurant at Grand Hyatt Shenzhen.

Diners will get a palate education in Guangzhou’s light and crisp dishes, the strong rural flavors of Dongguan cuisine, and the heat and spice of Sichuan food.

The event runs May 20-June 9.

188118

5 20 69

THE KITCHEN is getting crowded at Sha Tin 18 at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong. Four superb Hyatt chefs have come together to create the menu for “A Taste of Pearl River,” showcasing the cuisine from three regions

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Palate Education

STEP INSIDE The Langham Hong Kong and be transported to Europe. Step inside The Bostonian Restaurant in the hotel’s lower lobby and be transported across the pond to the United States. Besides top-notch cuts of meats including an Australian grain-fed cowboy ribeye, the restaurant features Boston lobsters served American style as well as American-sized portions. From the fully sustainable seafood selec-tion, the chef lists one of his favorite dish-es as the Langham smoked salmon truffl e crust, with spinach salad and pomegran-ate dressing. The Bostonian’s famed brunch, complete with jazz trio, completes a whirlwind tour of the best of the U.S., minus the jet lag.

The Bostonian Lobby, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 8 +852 2132 7898

Sha Tin 18 18, 4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong 18 4 +852 3723 7932 co

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tasting news

The Secret’s In the SauceW H AT C O U L D C O N V I N C E steak lovers to pass up a traditional red wine, black pepper or mushroom sauce? At JW’s California at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong the answer is Executive Sous Chef Jordi Villegas’ restaurant-exclusive sauce.

Chef Vil legas created his custom sauce following a trip to the Saga prefec-ture of Japan in 2010. He noticed chefs there served meat with sides of soya sauce and ginger and asked his host if the fl avors would overpower the meat.

“He explained because of the high fat content of the meat, it is important to complement it with a powerful sauce to balance the sweetness in the marbling,” recalls Villegas. “And he was totally right.”

The seed was planted and Chef Villegas got to work. Drawing upon his European roots, he started with a classic mushroom sauce and then took it to the next level with Asian ingredients including shitake mushrooms, Japanese mirin, sake, red wine, Dijon mustard, dried chili and ginger.

“It certainly brings out the meat fl avor even more,” he says.

Today, he estimates more diners order his signature sauce than any other on the menu. For this Spanish-born chef now living in Hong Kong, it’s the perfect fusion of East and West.

( JW Marriott Hotel) JW’s ( JW’s California) Jordi Villegas

Villegas

Villegas

Villegas

JW’s California 5/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacifi c Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong 88 JW +852 2810 8366 Co

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tasting news

W

2003(Louis

Latour Savigny les Beaune, Hospices de Beaune 2003)

2003

WINE GLASS company Riedel and HK restaurant Madame Sixty Ate are teaming up for a new tasting menu, but not in the way one might expect. Not only will the Flavour Menu’s wine pairings be served in Riedel

stemware, the food will as well. “We hope to unlock the subconscious

and enlighten diners that the enjoyment of food is a sensory experience, just as it is with wine, that both smell and taste enhance the flavor,” says Suresh Kanji, General Manager of Town House which sells Riedel products.

Courses include a Dungeness crab salad with pink grapefruit mousse, a foie gras and mulled cherry parfait and warm vanilla blueberries with whipped mascarpone. With dishes so delicious, who needs plates?

RiedelMadame Sixty Ate

Riedel

Riedel (Town House) Suresh Kanji

Madame Sixty Ate Shop 8, 1st Floor, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong

60 J SENSES 1 8 +852 2527 2558

Burgundy Wine and Dine

A Perfectly Unexpected Pairing

THE BEST THINGS in life are worth waiting for, especially when they involve fantastic food and drink. Chef Bryan Lee of Sing Yin Cantonese Dining at the W Hong Kong is proving that with a 7-course wine dinner featuring premium Burgundy vintages and a signature dish of lychee wood-fried crispy skin chicken that takes hours to prepare. It’s seasoned overnight, then roasted with aromatic lychee wood, cinnamon and Longjing tea leaves. Chef Lee believes he’s paired it perfectly with a well-balanced Louis Latour Savigny les Beaune, Hospices de Beaune 2003. “It’s a very well balanced wine from a great year that delights with a rich bouquet of red fruits,” he says. “A perfect match to bring out the strong taste of this dish.”

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Sing Yin Cantonese Dining 1/F W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd W, Hong KongW 1 Promotion Period: May 1- May 31, 2013

2013 5 1 5 30 +852 3717 2848

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tasting news

Sweet Serendipity

sustainable Tasmanian salmon trout with clams from mezza9 Macau, Peking duck from Beijing Kitchen and traditional local tastes from the Lobby Lounge all in one

(Valrhona)

Dulcey

Grand Club, Grand Dining

S O M E I N V E N T O R S spend years toiling away on their creations. Others stumble upon something amazing completely by chance. Case in point: Dulcey, the world’s first blonde chocolate, was the result of a forgetful Valrhona chef putting some lvoire chocolate in a bain marie and walking away. Ten hours later the chocolate had transformed into a creamy blonde creation with flavors of toasted biscuits, caramelized milk and a hint of salt. Valrhona engineers later replicated the recipe on a large scale, allowing the world to sample the chef’s mistake in an exquisite Dulcey chocolate. Serendipity never tasted so sweet.

sitting. Macau’s heritage not only plays into the flavors but also into the black walnut wood and marble décor of the Grand Club. Turns out it’s not lonely at the top, it’s downright decadent.

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Grand Club 37th fl oor, Grand Club Tower, Grand Hyatt, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 37 +853 8868 1234

IT’S A BIT OF HEAVEN on earth for foodies at the Grand Hyatt Macau. The newly unveiled Grand Club on the 37th floor of the Grand Club Tower offers not only superior service and style but also private dining featuring a combination of signature dishes from the hotel’s top eateries. Savor

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Valrhona - France - 26600 Tain l’hermitage - valrhonapro.com

Valrhona Inc - 45 Main Street, Suite 1054 - Brooklyn, NY 11201 - T: 718 522 7001EMAIL: [email protected]

To learn more about Dulcey and discover unique recipes, visit www.valrhonaprofessionals.com

VALRHONA ASIA PACIFIC - HONG KONG REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE10A Prosperous Commercial Building - 54 Jardine’s Bazaar Street, Causeway Bay - HONG KONG

Tel:+852 3590 3262 - Fax:+852 3590 4955 - Email: [email protected]

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Valrhona - France - 26600 Tain l’hermitage - valrhonapro.com

Valrhona Inc - 45 Main Street, Suite 1054 - Brooklyn, NY 11201 - T: 718 522 7001EMAIL: [email protected]

To learn more about Dulcey and discover unique recipes, visit www.valrhonaprofessionals.com

VALRHONA ASIA PACIFIC - HONG KONG REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE10A Prosperous Commercial Building - 54 Jardine’s Bazaar Street, Causeway Bay - HONG KONG

Tel:+852 3590 3262 - Fax:+852 3590 4955 - Email: [email protected]

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Venetian Vino

The Venetian® Macao-Resort-Hotel Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, s/n, Taipa, Macau

+853 2882 8888 Win

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tasting news

THERE WILL BE a simple but wonderful rhythm guiding the first annual Macau Wine & Dine Festival 2013: wine, tapas, repeat. Guests at the event will sway to the tempo at The Venetian Macao.

Set to take place around the exotic Venetian Lagoon, the festival is part of the extravagant month-long Italian Carnevale at the resort. The four-day event, orga-nized by The Wine Society of Macau with

support from the Macau government, will highlight crisp whites and full-bodied reds from countries around the world at nearly thirty wine tasting booths.

Additional vendors will offer Span-ish-style small plates, while a special Wine School will help guests elevate their knowledge and appreciation of all types of wines, vintages and perfect food pairings.

2013

……

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luxury living

Ivresse Des Bois Decanter Red Stopper

Baccarat collaborated with Marcel Wanders to blend function and imaginative design (that’s Wanders’ head featured on the stopper).

Baccarat Marcel Wanders

(Wander )

HKD $7,800 +852 2895 6001 www.baccarat.com

Eve Decanter

Perfect during the Year of the Snake, Riedel’s sleek serpent double decants wines.

Riedel

HKD $4,720

+852 2845 0633

www.townhouse.com.hk

Big Heart Decanter

Handblown by French artist Etienne Meneau, it’s one of just eight in the world.

Etienne Meneau

HKD $48,888

+852 2954 9922

www.amoeno.com

Owl Decanter

A highly technical creation by Lalique that’s a work of art whether empty or fi lled.

HKD $14,660

+ 852 2259 6641

www.lalique.com

let it breathe

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luxury living

Global G-5 Vegetable Knife

Perfectly weighted to slice and dice with ease.

HKD $975

+852 2523 1672

www.pan-handler.com

Blades of the Gods: Cupak & Grantang

Carved handles depict the Balinese legend of good versus evil.

(Cupak & Grantang)

USD $4,670

www.bladesofthegods.com

Porsche China Knife

The revered automobile maker steers into the kitchen with this stainless steel blade.

HKD $1,600

+852 2522 4128

www.porsche-design.com

Kramer NW Winter Damascus

The blade pattern of this custom knife makes it both functional and an objet d’art.

USD $500 per blade inch

+1 360 455 4357

www.kramerknives.com

slice of life

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fl oralfi rmament

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luxury living

THE ARCHED CEILING at Sevva has burst into bloom. Owner Bonnae Gokson has used more than 20,000 silk flowers to create a fl oral Sistine Chapel: fi ve species of roses nestle among peonies and lilies; delicate orchids and tendrils of greenery hang down; and hydrangeas and lilies all contribute to the bright canopy above the dining room.

Gokson, whose background is in the luxury and fashion industries, designed the dome to feed guests’ visual appetites. She says she can’t really pick a favorite fl ower – each has its own special charm. All together, the effect is glorious.

“Flowers have color and life and en-ergy,” says Gokson. “They attract positiv-ity and enhance the state of well being.”

SEVVA(Bonnie

Gokson)

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luxury living

THE ARCHED CEILING at Sevva has burst into bloom. Owner Bonnae Gokson has used more than 20,000 silk flowers to create a fl oral Sistine Chapel: fi ve species of roses nestle among peonies and lilies; delicate orchids and tendrils of greenery hang down; and hydrangeas and lilies all contribute to the bright canopy above the dining room.

Gokson, whose background is in the luxury and fashion industries, designed the dome to feed guests’ visual appetites. She says she can’t really pick a favorite fl ower – each has its own special charm. All together, the effect is glorious.

“Flowers have color and life and en-ergy,” says Gokson. “They attract positiv-ity and enhance the state of well being.”

SEVVA(Bonnie

Gokson)

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cooking with mieleMiele

TK: Please tell us about the dish you will be teaching Dr. Miele and Dr. Zinkann.

Esther Sham: The foie gras tamago cus-tard is one of my signature dishes from the Japanese menu of my private kitchen. It has the same egg base as the traditional chawan-mushi, but instead of putting things in the egg, I put them on top. I always like to com-bine different textures and add something that gives you a fl avor kick. Here the sau-téed mushrooms give you the kick, and the foie gras cream foam combined with the egg is silky smooth.

TK: How does the equipment factor into your cooking?

ES: It’s important that the steam doesn’t escape. If the steam and temperature are not persistent and steady, then it really affects the cooking. Steamed eggs are very delicate and sensitive. On my home court, I know exactly how many minutes will make the dish perfect. But when I do outside catering, I don’t know how the stove is and I always have to make adjustments on the timing.

Markus Miele: We have chefs work here at the Private Lounge all the time, and after they work with our steam oven, they say it’s unbelievable how precise the temperature is.

Reinhard Zinkann: In fact, when we came out with the steam cooker, nobody else thought this would be a successful product because there was nothing in the market. The only steam cooking known was the very old Asian way. But it turned out that more and more people liked steam cooking for nutrients, taste and faster cooking. Now we have the sixth or seventh generation prod-uct. We have the longest experience in the market and we’re working on the next gen-eration already. It’s always a step-by-step improvement.

MM: We originally had a smaller oven cavity. And we had good feedback from Europe, but not from Hong Kong because here they steam the whole fi sh. Before, in the smaller cavity, you had to bend the fi sh. And once you bend it and steam it, it will never be straight again.

ES: Steamed fi sh doesn’t look nice bent.

MM: Now the oven has a very large cavity. And you also have control in the process, timing-wise and temperature-wise.

TK: How do you think these eggs have turned out?

ES: Perfectly steamed!

TK: Miele Zinkann

Esther Sham:

TK:

ES:

Markus Miele: Miele

Reinhard Zinkann:

Miele

MM:

ES:

MM:

TK:

ES:

inspired living

Upon learning that Miele’s fourth generation family owners Dr. Markus Miele and

Dr. Reinhard Zinkann would be visiting Hong Kong, TK seized the opportunity to

put their product knowledge and experience to the ultimate test: a hands-on cooking

demonstration in the Private Lounge by Miele. Chef Esther Sham of Ta Pantry was

enlisted to walk them through a signature dish from her private kitchen, newly

relocated and reopened in North Point. § Miele

Markus Miele Reinhard Zinkann TK

Miele

Ta Pantry Esther Sham

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tasting notes

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tasting notes

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genie in a bottleJust off a fl ight, in the middle of a busy tour of the Asia Pacifi c region,

the world’s greatest bartender exudes warmth and speaks with easygoing

confi dence. Exactly the sort of man you want to serve you a drink. More than

15,000 hopefuls from around the globe compete annually for the title of World

Class Bartender of the Year. In 2012, Tim Philips saw off every last one of his

competitors. § WORLD CLASS

Tim Philips 2012

TK Tim

What makes a great bartender great?Being a great bartender isn’t just about

the drinks you make. One of the bartend-ers I admire the most – this might sound strange – is Mo from the Simpsons. He is one of the grumpiest, most cynical men on the face of the planet but he’s always there for you. I kind of admire that. Having a good personality and a good sense of hospital-ity are the best attributes you can have as a bartender.

Explain what you mean by a good sense of hospitality.

It’s about understanding your duty to care for, to look after your guests. Alcohol is a drug you need to respect both when dispens-ing and consuming it. Guests should feel welcome, have an enjoyable experience, and not consume too much. Humility is impor-tant too. No matter how good you get as a bartender, you have to remember you are in a service industry. If you start forgetting that

tasting notes

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tasting notes

and becoming jaded by serving people, then it’s time to move on. After saying personal-ity, hospitality, and humility, at this stage you haven’t even served someone a drink. If those three things are right, you go a long way towards being a great bartender.

What about when you do make a drink?I remember making my fi rst cocktail,

while working at a friend’s pub. I stood behind the curtain of the bar watching the customer drink it, and saw him nod his approval to a friend. That simple nod fi lled me with joy. Six or seven years later, working at one of the best cocktail bars in the world, there I was, standing behind the bloody curtain, looking out just like I had seven years earlier, hoping to get that same nod of approval. It’s something that still drives me today and keeps me in the industry.

Are you good at reading people? My girlfriend spent thousands of dol-

lars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free. I guess you see the best and the worst of people working behind a bar. Reading body language is part of being a great bartender, not only to make a judgment about which drink to recommend, something tall and refreshing or a bit more direct, but also to read when they are uncomfortable or whether perhaps they have had too much. It’s all part of the job.

What inspires you?Pop culture. Things that are cool or

kitsch. I always pay homage to classic meth-odology though. A classic method put into

2011

Bulletin Place

15

28

a contemporary use. I won the Austral-ian bartender of the year in 2011 with a drink based around a classic formula which was basically gin with citrus and a bitter-ing agent. I realized that you can change the fl avor to balance it out. I purposefully made the drink a little bit sour and a little bit bitter. Then I made this bubblegum out of lemon lime and gin which was too sweet. The too-sweet gum with the too-sour drink combined perfectly.

I am driven by service and fl avor. By fl avor I mean really paying attention to the seasons. Australian and global chefs have been going on about buying seasonally and fresh for years. At my bar, Bulletin Place in Sydney, if we get a delicious tray of fi gs in from our provider that morning and we can only make fi fteen drinks with those fi gs – once they’re gone, they’re gone. We don’t do strawberries in the middle of winter. We buy only from New South Wales. And you know what? This isn’t a fad. This is how it’s going to have to be. If you are a bar and you are buying apple puree from France and you are in Tasmania where apples are on your door-step it’s just lazy and expensive. I’d much rather buy fresh seasonal produce to bring costs down and be able to put better quality alcohol into drinks.

What does the future hold for you?I will always have one fi nger in the hospi-

tality pie, but at the same time I am 28 and there are other passions that drive me. Bar-tending is a portable skill – most countries have bars. People drink in the good times and people drink in the bad times.

“ My girlfriend spent thousands of dollars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free.”

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tasting notes

and becoming jaded by serving people, then it’s time to move on. After saying personal-ity, hospitality, and humility, at this stage you haven’t even served someone a drink. If those three things are right, you go a long way towards being a great bartender.

What about when you do make a drink?I remember making my fi rst cocktail,

while working at a friend’s pub. I stood behind the curtain of the bar watching the customer drink it, and saw him nod his approval to a friend. That simple nod fi lled me with joy. Six or seven years later, working at one of the best cocktail bars in the world, there I was, standing behind the bloody curtain, looking out just like I had seven years earlier, hoping to get that same nod of approval. It’s something that still drives me today and keeps me in the industry.

Are you good at reading people? My girlfriend spent thousands of dol-

lars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free. I guess you see the best and the worst of people working behind a bar. Reading body language is part of being a great bartender, not only to make a judgment about which drink to recommend, something tall and refreshing or a bit more direct, but also to read when they are uncomfortable or whether perhaps they have had too much. It’s all part of the job.

What inspires you?Pop culture. Things that are cool or

kitsch. I always pay homage to classic meth-odology though. A classic method put into

2011

Bulletin Place

15

28

a contemporary use. I won the Austral-ian bartender of the year in 2011 with a drink based around a classic formula which was basically gin with citrus and a bitter-ing agent. I realized that you can change the fl avor to balance it out. I purposefully made the drink a little bit sour and a little bit bitter. Then I made this bubblegum out of lemon lime and gin which was too sweet. The too-sweet gum with the too-sour drink combined perfectly.

I am driven by service and fl avor. By fl avor I mean really paying attention to the seasons. Australian and global chefs have been going on about buying seasonally and fresh for years. At my bar, Bulletin Place in Sydney, if we get a delicious tray of fi gs in from our provider that morning and we can only make fi fteen drinks with those fi gs – once they’re gone, they’re gone. We don’t do strawberries in the middle of winter. We buy only from New South Wales. And you know what? This isn’t a fad. This is how it’s going to have to be. If you are a bar and you are buying apple puree from France and you are in Tasmania where apples are on your door-step it’s just lazy and expensive. I’d much rather buy fresh seasonal produce to bring costs down and be able to put better quality alcohol into drinks.

What does the future hold for you?I will always have one fi nger in the hospi-

tality pie, but at the same time I am 28 and there are other passions that drive me. Bar-tending is a portable skill – most countries have bars. People drink in the good times and people drink in the bad times.

“ My girlfriend spent thousands of dollars doing a psychology degree. I think I’ve earned mine for free.”

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sponsored feature

At StarWorld Hotel’s Inagiku, Chef de Cuisine Lee King Wa Weng’s extraordinary kaiseki meals are inspired by the changing seasons

seasonal inspiration

LONG AGO during bitter Japanese winters, monks kept cold and hunger at bay by bind-ing warm stones over their bellies, a practice called kaiseki. These days, kaiseki refers to a set of artfully presented seasonal dishes, regarded by many as the pinnacle achieve-ment of Japanese cuisine.

Gently braised for three hours before being wrapped and cooked in a paper-thin sheet of wet cedar wood, the surface of Chef Weng’s ox tongue is wonderfully crispy, the inside tender and yielding. “The wood steams and smokes and the aroma of the cedar soaks deep into the meat,” he says. Sweet black beans skewered on fragrant pine needles form an edible dec-oration with the scent of early spring.

Delicately sliced scallops are served in a glass sphere with fragrant sakura wood smoke. A small sprig of pink blossoms from the same tree adds a touch of springtime color.

Chef Weng briefl y poaches fresh slices of tiger fi sh in broth, before plunging them into ice water to halt the cooking. Best in spring, the outside of the fi sh is crunchy and fi rm, the inside meltingly soft. Thinly sliced cucumber and seaweed add fresh color while yuzu sauce, a distinctive Japanese lime dressing, contributes a crisp citrus bite.

When you get hungry, the choice is yours: hot rocks under your belt, or the season’s fi nest ingredients, cooked to beautiful, deli-cious perfection by Chef Weng.

kaiseki

Chef Weng, Chef de Cuisine of Inagiku, StarWorld Hotel

See page 100 for contact details.

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Japanese Style Grilled Ox-Tongue

“Opening the fi sh up would damage it,” says Chef Weng of his Poached Tiger Fish

with Yuzu Sauce ( ). “You don’t have X-ray vision so you

need to be able to feel with the knife where the bones are. The tip of the knife is an extension of your hand.”

Japanese Style Grilled Ox-Tongue Smoked Scallop with Sakura Wood

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tataastststininnnnggg nonon teteeteeesssssponsored feature

frenchtwist

Chef Dominique Bugnand joins Vida Rica at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, bringing with him his distinct style of modern French cuisine

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Duck Liver in Three Ways

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sponsored feature

Pata Negra, chourico, morcela, and olives

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(Vida Rica)(Dominique Bugnand)

“HOW MANY DISHES do you create in your life?” asks Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominque Bugnand, who was born in the Burgundy region of France, but has worked in many different countries. “Very few,” he shrugs, citing the remarkable set of recipes which comprise the French canon. “We just revise.”

Take his approach to Duck a l’Orange: “Doesn’t sound very exciting, does it? I know it is a bullet-proof match. Now, it is my turn to see how I can present it. I want the wow feature.” He cuts the top off an orange, removes the fl esh, and blanches the skin. The hollowed-out fruit is fi lled with layers of duck confi t (fl avored with orange zest) and a light orange jelly. Slicing the orange open reveals the layers. “It is tricky to make, but fun,” he says.

He talks of his rendering of the ultra-traditional French Onion Soup. “It was my grandfather’s own family recipe. He used to make it when he had a hangover. In fact, we

call it ‘hangover soup’! We normally made it for New Year’s Eve. I add caramelized onions, white wine and chicken stock. Then it is boiled for three hours, after which I add crispy garlic and sherry wine.”

The base of his Poire Belle Hélène des-sert is an extraordinary rice-bowl-shaped meringue shell, made in a mold, which is carefully dried to a delicate crispiness before being fi lled with poached pears and ice-cream, and then upturned – which Chef Dominique can do by hand. “Quickly and gently,” he says.

Duck Liver in Three Ways is a dish that delightfully looks more like dessert than an appetizer. Chef Dominique believes that no more than three things should be happening on a plate, so he serves a trinity of livers: tra-ditional (a terrine layered with truffl e jelly); “fusion – if I may use that word” (pan-fried with mango and black pepper corns); and modern. The latter is a dish based on chem-istry. Throw a half-moon of frozen duck liver

Vida Rica Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand uses seasonal produce that comes mostly from the best regions of France, with the exception of wagyu beef, tuna and scallops ( Japan), and Black Angus beef (USA)

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(Vida Rica)(Dominique Bugnand)

“HOW MANY DISHES do you create in your life?” asks Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominque Bugnand, who was born in the Burgundy region of France, but has worked in many different countries. “Very few,” he shrugs, citing the remarkable set of recipes which comprise the French canon. “We just revise.”

Take his approach to Duck a l’Orange: “Doesn’t sound very exciting, does it? I know it is a bullet-proof match. Now, it is my turn to see how I can present it. I want the wow feature.” He cuts the top off an orange, removes the fl esh, and blanches the skin. The hollowed-out fruit is fi lled with layers of duck confi t (fl avored with orange zest) and a light orange jelly. Slicing the orange open reveals the layers. “It is tricky to make, but fun,” he says.

He talks of his rendering of the ultra-traditional French Onion Soup. “It was my grandfather’s own family recipe. He used to make it when he had a hangover. In fact, we

call it ‘hangover soup’! We normally made it for New Year’s Eve. I add caramelized onions, white wine and chicken stock. Then it is boiled for three hours, after which I add crispy garlic and sherry wine.”

The base of his Poire Belle Hélène des-sert is an extraordinary rice-bowl-shaped meringue shell, made in a mold, which is carefully dried to a delicate crispiness before being fi lled with poached pears and ice-cream, and then upturned – which Chef Dominique can do by hand. “Quickly and gently,” he says.

Duck Liver in Three Ways is a dish that delightfully looks more like dessert than an appetizer. Chef Dominique believes that no more than three things should be happening on a plate, so he serves a trinity of livers: tra-ditional (a terrine layered with truffl e jelly); “fusion – if I may use that word” (pan-fried with mango and black pepper corns); and modern. The latter is a dish based on chem-istry. Throw a half-moon of frozen duck liver

Vida Rica Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand uses seasonal produce that comes mostly from the best regions of France, with the exception of wagyu beef, tuna and scallops ( Japan), and Black Angus beef (USA)

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soup into a pot of boiling port and gelatin for a few seconds: the temperature shock means that rather than melting, the soup emerges with a port-fl avored “ravioli” skin.

At the same time, Chef Dominique is interested in mashed potato. “It is the sim-plest thing. But no one knows how to make good mashed potato. Hot milk – and cold butter. Cook potatoes in skin. Mash. Add the milk with a spatula. Add butter, slowly, but mix fast. If a chef adds the butter too quickly, I can see a shiny layer on the top.”

His cooking, then, is a thrilling dance of simplicity and complexity. He offers dishes that may look effortless and utterly

simple, but are in fact technically diffi cult. He emphasizes that great food need not be complicated, yet the beautiful directness of his dishes clearly results from a hard-won mastery of his materials. When he says that a chef ’s secret is that there is no secret, he is expressing both humility, and confi dence.

He says it all works because he knows what he likes and that’s what he cooks. “I love to eat these kinds of dishes. Chefs are

always a bit selfi sh.” That’s the beauty of being of a chef: by

cooking what you love best, you share the love. “I can taste in the food if the chef was happy or sad,” says Chef Dominique. “Whether he was having a good day or bad day while he was cooking. You can’t fake the taste or how you feel in your heart.”

See page 100 for contact details.

An oyster fresh from France Alaskan Spider Crab Cannelloni – the crab is wrapped in a lobster gelée

“ I always say that the chef ’s secret is that there’s no secret!”

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( )( )

100

sponsored feature

Pear and Caramel Chocolate – poached pears with crispy meringue, vanilla ice cream and hot caramel-chocolate sauce

Roasted Challans duck breast, foie gras and orange skin packed with duck confi t and orange jelly

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( )( )

100

sponsored feature

Pear and Caramel Chocolate – poached pears with crispy meringue, vanilla ice cream and hot caramel-chocolate sauce

Roasted Challans duck breast, foie gras and orange skin packed with duck confi t and orange jelly

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kitchen conversations

Brian Moore :

Steik World Meats

Brian Moore

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN MOORE understands the nuances of beef. Flavor is infl uenced by the breed, location, feed of the cow and the way the meat is aged, cut and cooked. One of the restaurants he manages - Steik World Meats - offers diners the chance to com-pare carefully selected beef cuts from eight different countries of the world. It’s a per-fect place for steak connoisseurs to explore their passion.

“Grass-fed beef has a good texture and delicate fl avor,” says Chef Moore. “It is leaner, as the cattle grow more slowly than

boning upThe Epicurean Group’s Executive Chef Brian Moore is a true beef connoisseur.

Corn-fed American short rib steak, cooked for 72 hours sous vide and lightly seasoned

with sage, thyme and garlic oil

72

Left: Chef Brian Moore with a slab of dry-aged T-bone steak. During dry

aging, the meat shrinks as it matures – the outer layer is trimmed before cooking.

Brian Moore

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kitchen conversations

corn or grain-fed animals. A grass-fed steak has a fi rmer texture – you have to cut it smaller and chew it. This is how beef should taste, it’s very natural and pure. We have a wonderful grass-fed Charolais beef from Ireland, where the pasture is so lush from constant rain, the meat has an incredible fl avor – it’s almost lamby!”

The contrast between grass and corn-fed beef is visible. Chef Moore cooks two prime ribs of beef on the bone, one from an Australian grass-fed steer, another from an American steer fed with corn. The American beef is a delicate juicy pink and has a thick glistening ribbon of fat running through the center of the steak. The texture is velvet and melting – it barely needs chewing and the fl avor is rich and beefy. By contrast, the Aus-tralian steak is leaner and drier – there is no fat to be seen –and resists the knife more when cut. The fl avor is light and clean.

Each variety of meat is cooked differ-ently. “We have a 600-degree broiler which is ideal for corn-fed beef, as the fat content is higher and it doesn’t dry out,” explains Moore. “Grass-fed would suffer on this grill, so we use a more gentle charcoal grill instead, to keep it moist.”

On display in the elegant dining room is a bank of dry aging fridges, housing huge slabs of beef, backlit by amethyst-colored light. Meat needs to be aged for at least four weeks after slaughter as it is too tough to eat straight away. Dry aging allows a nat-ural enzyme within the fl esh to tenderize the fi bers, softening them, and allowing the fl avor of the meat to mature. Wet aging is another method, but the texture of the meat is not as soft when cooked. Dry aging is time consuming and costly – but the fl avor bene-fi ts are enormous.

The most natural way to prepare steak is

to keep the bone in during the cooking pro-cess. The bone protects the meat, basting it from within, preventing leaner cuts from drying out, and adding fl avor from its marrow.

Chef Moore presents a juicy hunk of beef steak served on the bone. The outside is darkened and caramelized, the scent savory. The beef falls apart beneath the knife into delicate pink strands and the texture and fl avor is even from bite to fi nish.

“You don’t even need teeth to eat this,” says Moore. “It’s so tender. I don’t think you should complicate the fl avor of steak with sauces – just a little salt and pepper

Parfait of chopped chicken livers and foie gras with white truffl e goose butter. The sweet balsamic reduction in the shape of the Chinese character for “mouth” forms a perfect

foil to the smooth velvety pate. Served with pickles and toast for crunch.

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(Charolais)

Brian Moore

600

Moore

Steik World Meats

Moore

Moore

American corn-fed rib of beef, sliced and presented with sides of buttery

mashed potato and French beans

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tasting notes

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tasting notes

advanced italian

START WITH THE FINEST natural ingredi-ents. Prepare them with a deep respect for tradition. Spice things up with con-stant curiosity and a willingness to innovate. Chef Alfonso Iaccarino’s recipe for success at Don Alfonso 1890 sounds deceptively simple. It’s a familiar, tried and true method. Anybody who has ever tried it knows it’s a lot easier said than done.

For starters, not every chef has his or her own farm. And not every farm pro-duces ingredients as fl avorful as those from Le Peracciole, the Iaccarino fami-ly’s organic farm on the southern Italian Sorrentine Peninsula which supplies most of Don Alfonso’s produce.

“I live in the country of light, and I am cooking the lightness that is around us,” says Chef Alfonso. “So I try to use many natural, organic ingredients. I am sure of the products from my farm. Where we live is very special for vegetables. Because it is very near to the sea, the vegetables get

At Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso 1890 in Macau, the highly evolved cuisine served by Chef Alfonso Iaccarino and his team satisfi es by

both honoring and refi ning classic Italian dishes

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tasting notes

advanced italian

START WITH THE FINEST natural ingredi-ents. Prepare them with a deep respect for tradition. Spice things up with con-stant curiosity and a willingness to innovate. Chef Alfonso Iaccarino’s recipe for success at Don Alfonso 1890 sounds deceptively simple. It’s a familiar, tried and true method. Anybody who has ever tried it knows it’s a lot easier said than done.

For starters, not every chef has his or her own farm. And not every farm pro-duces ingredients as fl avorful as those from Le Peracciole, the Iaccarino fami-ly’s organic farm on the southern Italian Sorrentine Peninsula which supplies most of Don Alfonso’s produce.

“I live in the country of light, and I am cooking the lightness that is around us,” says Chef Alfonso. “So I try to use many natural, organic ingredients. I am sure of the products from my farm. Where we live is very special for vegetables. Because it is very near to the sea, the vegetables get

At Grand Lisboa’s Don Alfonso 1890 in Macau, the highly evolved cuisine served by Chef Alfonso Iaccarino and his team satisfi es by

both honoring and refi ning classic Italian dishes

40875_R8_052-055.indd 53 13/5/7 下午6:20

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tasting notes

1890

1890Alfonso Iaccarino

Alfonso

AlfonsoAlfonso

AlfonsoAlfonso

Alfonso

Alfonso

Al-fonso (sous-vide)

Alfonso

(all’acqua pazza)

fl avor from the salt in the air. Normally when I eat privately in my house, I never use salt because there is no need to.”

Still fewer chefs enjoy the support and backing of a true gourmand like Grand Lis-boa’s Executive Director Alan Ho, who truly understands and appreciates the importance of procuring the world’s best ingredients. “We’re looking for the best,” says Alfonso. “If you have the best sea urchin, we will use your sea urchin.”

Also central to Alfonso’s philosophy is a commitment to both tradition and explora-tion – two seemingly contradictory values which every great chef learns to balance in his or her own way. Chef Alfonso manages with apparent ease: his dishes are highly evolved classics, rendered sometimes with a surprising modern touch, or with brilliant clarity and devotion to traditional fl avors.

Sometimes he draws inspiration from centuries-old recipes and modernizes them with new technology. Where once chefs would boil a fi sh with herbs, Chef Alfonso can now use a vacuum pack and sous-vide cook the dish slowly, at a lower temperature, preserving juices and aroma. “We put today’s technology in the kitchen with the old style of cooking and create something very inter-esting and very new.” The resulting dish has the same essence as the original recipe but is much fi ner in texture and fl avor.

Other times, Chef Alfonso fi nds ways to bring new ingredients into traditional dishes. “Everywhere I go, I try to see the market fi rst thing,” he says. “I go to eat with local people … where I can have a new experience.” Once, after being intro-duced to a memorably delicious Japanese fi sh, the amadai, he decided to cook it Ital-ian style, all’acqua pazza (crazy water style), with tomatoes and other diced vegetables. “Old Italian tradition combined with one of the best Japanese fi sh – perfect.”

“I have dedicated my life to quality food and to the good health of my guests,” says Chef Alfonso. “That’s what is important to me.”

Giudia-style artichoke with buffalo mozzarella, pennyroyal mint, black truffl e and a sauce of anchovies from Cetara

Zinna di vacca “alla dama” – terrine of cow breast and celery, with Oscietra caviar and Bourbon king pesto

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Hervé Laviale, winemaker

tasting notes

(City of Dreams) (Jade Dragon)

(pata negra)

living the dreamAt Jade Dragon, City Of Dreams Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung cooks memorably delicious Cantonese dishes that pay tribute to his grandmother

“MY GRANDMOTHER INSPIRED me to cook,” says City of Dreams Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung. “She had only a wood-fi red stove, an iron wok and a steamer, but she used natural ingredients to cook delicious food for dozens of people. I wanted to do the same.”

The elegant surroundings at Jade Dragon restaurant may seem far removed from Chef Tam’s grandmother’s kitchen, but the same values and principles endure: to take the fi nest natural ingredients in their seasonal prime and to prepare them using traditional, healthy Cantonese cooking techniques.

A beautiful winter melon dish from the seasonal menu is artfully arranged to resem-ble a white lily fl oating in a shallow crimson pool. Lightly steamed winter melon sur-rounds a mound of potent green spinach leaves. Slivers of delicate fi sh maw inter-laced with paper thin slices of Azuaga Ham and fresh baby spinach top the dish. A salty, earthy red sauce made from organic beet-root and chicken broth adds striking contrast, both in color and texture.

“The Chinese should be proud that they invented steam cookery,” says Tam. “It has been around for thousands of years and is a really healthy way to cook. This dish shows

Winter melon with aged Azuaga Ham, fi sh maw and fresh spinach

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tasting notes

the traditional cooking technique, but with a modern presentation.”

The same steaming technique is used to prepare a whole Macau sole. Found around the Pearl River estuary, this fi sh needs a tem-perate blend of salt and fresh waters in order to fl ourish. “It’s a beautiful wild fi sh with a smooth, sweet fl avor and a melting tex-ture,” say Tam. “I serve it with a mild soy sauce, lightly salted, just like the water the sole swims in.”

Behind the windows of Jade Dragon’s exhibition kitchen, chefs work at a brick oven, fuelling it with smooth branches from lychee and red date trees. A row of Iberico pork loin strips, destined to become char siew, hang from a copper rail, dripping with organic honey. “Lychee wood brings a special taste to the meat,” explains Tam. “Red date wood gives it a gorgeous deep color. The honey and seasonings in the glaze make it savory and sweet at the same time.” The meat is extraor-dinarily tender and juicy, and breaks apart without being stringy. “We use a special cut. It’s the strip at the top of the rump,” says Tam.

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He speaks with the confi dence of a chef who knows that after seeing the pork roast-ing over a crackling, fragrant wood fi re, few are able to resist: “Not many restaurants create this same outstanding taste and fl avor with their char siew. Our barbecue creates a tender meat texture with a light, natural wood fl avor. You have to try it!”

Wild-caught Macau sole steamed with mandarin peel and scallions

Chef Tam uses a special cut of Iberico pork from the top of the loin. Dipped in

organic honey straight from the comb and roasted over a fi re of lychee and red date wood, it makes irresistible char siew.

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choice cutsStrength, dexterity, a passion for meat, and some very sharp knives: in the kitchen with Shore Executive Chef Jason Black.

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“YOU NEED to be physically and mentally strong to work in a kitchen,” says Shore Executive Chef Jason Black. “And you need to get on with one another. You spend twelve to sixteen hours working in a small, hot space, working hard.”

The two rooms of Chef Black’s kitchen are busy with cooks, chopping, grind-ing, lighting charcoal fi res, mixing, tasting, sawing, slicing and doing all the tough, con-centrated jobs that are a prelude to beautiful, delicious food. Everybody moves with fl uid, collective grace – a good thing, when so many blades are involved.

The Shore team makes all their stocks and sauces from scratch. Beef is shipped in to the restaurant fresh and unbutchered. Chef Black is able to oversee the aging process himself and decide exactly when the meat is at the peak of its fl avor and tenderness. He designed a row of dry aging fridges in the kitchen which are fi lled with large racks of meat.

“And I bought a band saw, so we can cut large pieces of meat on the bone,” he says. “Our butcher Ah Wa uses it. A normal knife isn’t strong enough.”

“I wear these special gloves when cut-ting meat on the bone,” says Ah Wa, pulling on a pair of chainmail gauntlets to protect his hands.

“I don’t believe in waste,” says Black. “We use everything we buy – even strange cuts of meat like pigs’ feet can be delicious. The team cooks a dish we eat together called ‘head to toe.’ You take the meat from a pig’s head and stuff it into the trotter. It’s poached in a beautiful sweet broth fl avored with hearty vegetables.”

Knife in hand, Chef Black demonstrates how to cut meat from a cooked pig knuckle. “You need to feel for the bone with the tip of the knife, then cut as close to it as pos-sible, without sawing.” With caramel skin and springy magenta fl esh, the meat smells like Christmas – sugary with a slight whiff of cloves.

Ah Wa moves on to fi llet a vast Mahi Mahi, using a wider knife. The fresh, taut fi sh resists the pull of the blade as he sweeps along the line of its backbone with clean, smooth strokes. He removes one fi llet, then deftly fl ips the fi sh over. “It’s hard work,” he

says. “But I like it.”Chef Black likes it too: “When you

butcher a fi sh, you get bones. For fi sh stock.”Three huge saucepans rattle on the

stove. A rich, sweet, maritime scent wafts up as Black lifts a lid off to reveal red lobster shells bubbling among herbs and vegetables – broth for a bouillabaisse.

Chef de Cuisine Desmond Yau and Sous Chef Sun Chan are making a glossy, ginger-colored barbeque sauce. It tastes deli-cious, with a potent tartness that would cut through the fattiest rib dish. Ah Wa is keep-ing busy, blitzing freshly minced steak into a meaty paste, then hauling the heavy bowl into the back kitchen, where he forms the mixture into neat balls.

“He’s making burgers,” says Chef Black. “We grind our own meat using a mixture of three different cuts – rump steak, neck and chuck. We want that mix of different fat components for a better taste.”

“Ah Wa used to be a skinny lad,” says Chef Black. “But he keeps the meat offcuts and cooks them. He eats a lot of protein. Now he is strong.” Jo

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Shore Jason Black

Black

Shore

Black

Black

“ You need to be physically and mentally strong to work in a kitchen.

Black

Black

Shore Shore

Black

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Shore Jason Black

Black

Shore

Black

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“ You need to be physically and mentally strong to work in a kitchen.

Black

Black

Shore Shore

Black

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PERFECTPAIRINGS

Four top restaurants. Four classic beef dishes.

One great wine.

RED & RED

IN THE EARLY 1800S, a French expedition set off

for the Southern Hemisphere to chart the West-

ern coast of Australia. Searching for a name for

a particularly beautiful cape in the region, they

decided to honor two esteemed French scien-

tists – the brothers Mentelle.

Two hundred years later, in a nearby spot,

close to the shore of the Indian Ocean, fi elds

of mature grape vines fl ourish in the pleasant

maritime climate. Consistent dry weather and

cool sea breezes allow for a long growing sea-

son. These vines grow steadily, producing rich,

dark grapes with a fruity, spicy fl avor. These are

the vineyards of Cape Mentelle, one of the pio-

neering wine producers of the Margaret River

region. Established in 1970 by Australian broth-

ers David, Mark and Giles Hohnen, the winery

started small, with just sixteen hectares of vines.

The area seemed a perfect place to experi-

ment with Bordeaux grape varieties, and the

P R E S E N T E D B Y C A P E M E N T E L L E

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Steak and Shiraz at Shore restaurant.

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PERFECTPAIRINGS

David Mark Giles Hohnen1970 16

Robert Mann

(Shiraz)

Robert

-- –

Robert

favorable climate and free-draining, gravelly soil helped the vines to thrive. “Ripening conditions are perfect,” says Cape Men-telle Senior Winemaker Robert Mann. “We rarely have diffi cult conditions at harvest. My grandfather, who was also a winemaker, commented that this was the only wine region in the world to have a hundred great vintages a century.”

Shiraz has been grown at Cape Men-telle since the beginning. It is a very special grape. Large, around the size of a marble, it produces hearty wine with distinctively rich, fruity layers of fl avor. Skins darkened under the warm sun give the wine its regal purple color. During fermentation, the Cape Men-telle cellars are fi lled with scents of blueberry fruit and peppery spice.

Shiraz has a reputation for being a grape that produces a lot of sugar and alcohol when cultivated in the New World. The vintners at Cape Mentelle work hard to keep the growth and fl avor development of the grapes to a moderate level, creating a bal-anced, subtle wine.

“Structure and balance are critical,” says Robert. “To achieve optimal fl avor and tannin maturity, it all starts in the vineyard. At harvest, we sort our red fruit berry by berry, to ensure that only the most uniformly ripe grapes are accepted, and to remove any-thing that might adversely impact the fl avor and structure. The rest is straightforward. We let the fruit do the talking.”

Shiraz communicates particularly well with beef dishes. “Aussies love beef and Shiraz and produce both to a very high stand-ard,” says Robert. “The texture and richness of beef is a great match for the intensity and full fl avor of Shiraz, whose spice not only bal-ances the wine but also helps complement the beef and cut through the fattiness.”

On the following pages, four top chefs from four famous Hong Kong restaurants cook four different beef dishes to pair with Cape Mentelle’s Shiraz. Delicious red beef and rich red Shiraz – it’s a match that enhances the great qualities of both partners.

Winemaker Robert Mann at the Cape Mentelle vineyards in the Margaret River region of Southwestern Australia

Robert Mann

Cape

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PERFECTPAIRINGS

Grass-fed Angus beef from North Western Tasmania is the purest meat. We dry age it – dry-aged beef has a markedly different fl avor – and cook it sous vide, so it remains juicy. Then we sear it using a charcoal grill to caramelize the outside. Good caramelization produces an umami fl avor – that special roasted fl avor.

The interaction between steak and wine really depends on how well the outside of the steak is caramelized. Shiraz is my wine of choice because of its depth of fl avor and light acidity. Grass-fed beef has a purer taste than grain-fed. It needs something strong, but not overpowering. The red, rich deepness of this Cape Mentelle Shiraz goes great with the red, rich fl avor of the steak.

Shore Restaurant L Place, Central, L Place

Shore Executive Chef Jason Black

P R E S E N T E D B Y C A P E M E N T E L L E

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Chef Tsang Chiu King’s Wagyu beef with pumpkin mushroom and black truffle sauce is a delicious, evenly balanced dish. The delicate, sweet fruit flavor of the pumpkin works well with the earthy character of the truffle and the meat fl avor is quite subtle.

Without wine, you feel the sweetness and earthiness of the sauce more strongly. This Shiraz is a very beautiful fruit which balances the sweetness of the pumpkin.The Cape Mentelle wine also has notes of cooking spice, which counter the earthy notes of the mushroom and truffle. The acid in red wine highlights beef flavors. After you have a sip of wine, the pumpkin fl avor will be quieted, the mushroom and truffl e subdued and the beef will shine.

Pairing by Zachary Yu, Wine Guy, Ming Court

Ming Court Langham Place, Mongkok, Hong Kong

Executive Chef – East, Tsang Chiu King

PERFECTPAIRINGSP R E S E N T E D B Y C A P E M E N T E L L E

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When pairing wines with food, you either want a perfect match, or a striking clash. This braised beef cheek dish is cooked with prune, chili and black pepper. Served with a smear of parsnip puree and some apple cinnamon confit , it has spice, fruit and sweetness that perfectly echo the spicy, fruity, sweet notes of Cape Mentelle’s Shiraz. It’s such a good match I even used the same wine in the cooking.

The beef is also from Australia. I believe it makes sense to pair Australian beef with Australian Shiraz. Matching food and wine from the same area is something we always do in France.

Philippe Orrico, Executive Chef, Western Cuisine

St. George Hullett House, Tsim Sha Tsui

PERFECTPAIRINGSP R E S E N T E D B Y C A P E M E N T E L L E

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Beef belly in chu hou sauce is a very traditional Chinese dish, served warm as an appetizer. Chu hou sauce is a Qing Dynasty sauce made from fermented soybeans and ginger. It gives the dish a lovely reddish brown color. This particular cut of beef comes from a special position around the abdomen of the cow – the meat in this area is very tender. I cook the piece of meat whole, braising it in the sauce for three hours. This Cape Mentelle Shiraz is the perfect choice for the beef. It has a fl owery scent, spice, and a plum fl avor. It’s a full-bodied wine that balances the rich, juicy cut of meat. I love wine from Western Australia.

Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant

iSQUARE, Tsim Sha Tsui

Executive Chef Leung Siu Ming

PERFECTPAIRINGSP R E S E N T E D B Y C A P E M E N T E L L E

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tasting notes

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house of meat

WHEN ASKED TO EXPLAIN Blue Butcher’s success, Chef Danny Chaney points to him-self, and then says: “You can quote me on that one.” He’s (partly) joking, but there’s no denying the brash self-confi dence and sense of rebellion that pervades the entire restaurant, from the New York-style Prohi-bition warehouse concept to the tattooed staff to the gangsta rap music blaring in the background.

“We’re not afraid to cross boundaries here,” says Danny. “We push the limit on everything we do.”

Since opening last year, Blue Butcher’s farm-to-fork and nose-to-tail menu has made it a popular destination for Hong Kong’s carnivores.

“There are so many good parts of the animal that people don’t often use,” says Mal-colm Woods, managing director of Maximal Concepts, the group behind Blue Butcher. “The Chinese eat tongue by itself. They eat cheek and brain. We’re just taking compo-nents that have been used in Hong Kong for ages and presenting them in a Western style.”

They take steak seriously too. Blue Butcher’s Mayura Farm wagyu sirloin is dry aged for weeks in a meat fridge lined with

Blue Butcher’s nose-to-tail meat offerings have been drawing crowds of hungry carnivores

(Blue Butcher)Danny Chaney

Danny

Maximal ConceptsMalcolm Woods

Mayura

Danny

tasting notes

“We’re not a steakhouse,” says Blue Butcher Chef Danny Chaney (photo opposite). “We are a meat house.”

“ ” Danny Chaney

“ ”

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Mayura Farm wagyu sirloin, grilled to perfection after being dry aged

for four weeks in a meat fridge lined with blocks of pink Himalayan salt.

Mayura

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tasting notes

Danny

Malcolm Danny Malcolm

blocks of pink Himalayan salt. A fan blows on the salt and circulates the spiced air, sea-soning and curing the meat. The result is a consistently tender piece of meat with a bold, concentrated fl avor. Danny also uses a special dry-aging rub that “creates the really great crust on the steak that everyone talks about.”

Just don’t call it a steakhouse. “We’re not a steakhouse,” Danny says

adamantly. “We are a meat house. We are meat-oriented.”

Steak is just one player in a lineup that has included Kurobuta pig belly, veal cheek and sweetbreads, oxtail, duck, and Austral-ian Salt Bush lamb shoulder. They brine and cook fi ve or six pig heads each week to prepare their pig’s head terrine. On any given Friday night, fi ve or six dozen orders of bone marrow fl y out of the kitchen. Even the drinks are meat-inspired, with names like “Pork Chop and Apple Sauce” and “Pig’s Blood Martini.”

A three-kilo French lamb shoulder recently made its debut on the menu. Poached in rosemary-infused olive oil for 24 hours to melt the fat into the meat and then fi nished off in the oven for forty minutes, the lamb is pink and tender on the inside

and beautifully charred on the outside. It has been selling out almost every night.

Though Blue Butcher is now a fi rm fi xture in the Hong Kong dining scene, Mal-colm and Danny aren’t inclined to coast. “We keep things fresh and change the menu every three to fi ve months,” says Malcolm. “Source the meat properly, choose the ingredients well, and let the food do the talking.”

Pork Chop and Apple Sauce: rich, smoky, bacon-washed scotch is served over crushed ice with a spoon of applesauce.

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The Best of Burgundy

Three great Frene ch chefs prepare Burgundy menus for Le French GourMay.

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presented by

Chef Frederic Chabbert’s crayfi sh Morvan with Vin Jaune, morels and celeriac risotto

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WHEN PEOPLE THINK of classic French cui-sine, the dishes and products that fi rst come to mind are often those of one region which lies at the heart of France, and at the heart of French gastronomy: Burgundy.

There is a striking sophistication in the cooking of the region, but traditions are deeply rooted in a sense of terroir, in a strong relationship with the land and its bounty. Petrus Chef de Cuisine Frederic Chabbert likens Burgundian cuisine to a girl from the country in a beautiful dress.

The quality of the region’s produce, including wild mushrooms, truffl es, and

blackcurrants (for cassis), is outstanding. Burgundy is home to Charolais beef cattle, one of the world’s most famous breeds. Bresse chicken and pigeon abound in Bur-gundy and have their own AOC, a special French certifi cation of quality.

“Most of the restaurants in Burgundy have their own farms nearby,” says Vida Rica’s new Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand. “Chefs only use the vegetables or herbs planted on their own properties, harvested on the same day they’re cooked. They couldn’t be fresher.”

The region’s wines, from Chablis in the north down to the Côte de Nuits and the

Côte du Beaune in the south, have been inspiring chefs for generations with their elegance, bouquet and quiet power. Two of the region’s iconic dishes, Boeuf Bourguig-non and Coq au Vin, are centred on wine. Vineyard snails are simmered in it, river fi sh is poached in it; pork, when not being made into sausages and pâté, is sautéed in it, and even the famous Epoisses cheese has its dis-tinctive orange rind washed in it.

“Burgundy is a beautiful region,” says Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. “Everything turns around food and wine.”

Chef Dominique Bugnand’s slow-poached egg with Brittany

artichoke mash and parmesan foam

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(terroir)(Petrus)

(Frederic Chabbert)

()

(Charolais)

AOC(Vida Rica)

(Dominique Bugnand)

(Chablis) (Côte de Nuits)(Côte du Beaune)

(Epoisses)

L’Atelier de Joël Robu-chon Olivier Elzer

presented byThe Best of Burgundy

Chef Olivier Elzer’s Charolais beef chuck cooked in classic Burgundy style

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Restaurant Petrus Chef de Cuisine Frederic Chabbert

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Petrus

“Some boundaries are necessary,” says Chef Frederic Chabbert. “You ask some-one to decorate your house but don’t give them any clues as to which colors you prefer? No way!” In creating a Burgundian menu, he embraced the regional flavor palette, starting by thinking of all the inspiring produce for which Burgundy is famous: Frog legs. Snails. Morels. Bresse poultry. And it’s May. “All chefs love May,” Chef Frederic says. “It is when the colors start to become brighter and stronger – a great time for creating.” Because many of his guests don’t like risotto, he chops sea-sonal celeriac into tiny pieces to resemble rice grains, then assembles them as if making risotto, with Vin Jaune, Parmesan, morels and crayfi sh. Bresse pigeon gets a refreshingly tart touch with a lemon glaze and is served with brocoletti. Everyone is moving towards vegetables these days, says Chef Frederic. He has halved his but-ter content in the last fi ve years and likes to blend a contemporary approach with classic sauces and other touches. Would he describe his cooking as a modern take on Burgundy? “I guess my grandmother would not cook like this,” he says. “We have to move on. We need to be able to walk after dinner.”

(Restaurant Petrus)(Frederic Chabbert)

The Best of Burgundy

Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong

Bresse Chicken dodine with black truffl e and foie gras

( )

Restaurant

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Vida Rica Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand

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Vida Rica Mandarin Oriental, Macau

Historical research was the inspiration for Chef Dominique Bugnand’s seven-course Emperor’s Table dinner. He takes the preferred foods of Napoleon, the first emperor of France, and transforms those simple eggs, humble potatoes, macaroni and Parmesan cheese into gastronomic delights. “Creative interpretation” is how he describes this process. He even dares to update Baked Alaska, taking a torch to it for alluring color. He beautifully constructs a single raviolo from strands of spaghetti, stuffs it with aromatic black truffl e juice, and puts mushrooms on the side. A slow-poached egg comes with Parmesan foam and artichoke mash. He presents his own version of Chicken Marengo, a highly rustic dish made by Napoleon’s head chef, and lifts it to new fl avor profi les. Chef Dominique is from Burgundy, and he works proudly with his region’s produce, which for him sings of clean soil and unpolluted water. His inclusion of a Chablis with a platter of iconic Burgundy cheeses and wines is a reminder that, though many think that cheese should be eaten with red wine, a white Burgundy makes a stunning match.

(Dominique Bugnand)

(Baked Alaska)

The Best of Burgundy

Duck liver terrine with fi g chutney and warm brioche

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L ’Atelier de Joël RobuchonThe Landmark, Central

Expensive wine isn’t necessary for making Burgundian dishes like Coq au Vin and Boeuf Bourguignon, says Chef Olivier Elzer – though he was once asked to make the iconic beef dish with a bottle of DRC (Domaine Romanee-Conti), the estate in Burgundy that produces some of the world’s fi nest and costliest wines. But it does make sense to use a good white Burgundy for the Dijon mustard jelly which sets over his Bresse chicken stuffed with foie gras, the starter on his Burgundy menu. As befi ts the L’Atelier style, Chef Olivier’s cooking emphasizes innovation, though with Boeuf Bourguignon he works with the traditional chuck cut and the usual mushrooms, baby onions and bacon. It’s the presentation which is more intricate, and modern. His least typical dish is lobster fricassee. It incorporates Vin Jaune from the nearby Jura region, but it is paired with seasonal Burgundy asparagus. “The dish is a balance of texture and fl avor,” says Chef Olivier. He embraces typical Burgundian dishes for the fascinating stories behind their evolution, and having worked in the region for four years, says he loves everything about it – the produce, the wines, the restaurants, the people, all of Burgundy.

Olivier Elzer

(Domaine Romanee-Conti)

Olivier

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Olivier

()

Olivier

Olivier

The Best of Burgundy

Ballotine of Bresse chicken stuffed with foie gras, Dijon

mustard and white wine jelly

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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Chef de Cuisine

Exécutif Olivier Elzer

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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Chef de Cuisine

Exécutif Olivier Elzer

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Aqua Spirit’s guests don’t have to choose between a great view and a great drink

“I’VE BEEN WORKING here for seven and a half years and I never fi nd the view boring,” says Milan Gurung, supervisor and mixolo-gist at Aqua Spirit bar. “At seven o’ clock it gets dark and I am always: Wow!”

The view is dramatic, the interior ele-gant. Shallow glass bowls fi lled with acid yellow lilies and fl oating white candles add an element of water, refl ecting the name of the bar. All of which sets the stage for Aqua Spirit’s delicious, beautifully pre-sented cocktails.

Milan is deft, swift and poised as he

mixes a drink. He has a passion for the ritual of making a cocktail. “In my business, you need to be a performer. When you are mixing a cocktail you can’t look like a zombie – you have to smile and connect with the guests. From the moment they choose the drink until they fi nish it, it is a journey. Like per-formance art.”

One of Milan’s exquisite inventions is a twist on a margarita. “I mix tequila with yuzu and elderfl ower cordial to make it fresh. The tea is light and gives a Japanese infl uence to the drink.”

Light green fl uid envelops a rough chunk of ice. Three Kaffi r lime leaves rest against the side of the glass. The rim is edged with green tea-fl avored sea salt. “It’s simply pre-sented in a rock glass,” says Milan. “The drink is green and the rim is green, very lush and tropical. And Kaffi r lime leaves have the most beautiful fragrance.”

There is an aromatic sourness at fi rst sip, which cleaves the tongue, spreading pungent citrus all over the mouth. Milan explains: “Yuzu is a type of Japanese lime you use at two stages of ripeness. We use the young lime in this drink. It’s more sour and aromatic than a regular lime. It lifts and is refreshing. I call it Nippon Damashi. The words mean Japa-nese heart, Japanese spirit.”

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world class

Tequila Don Julio Añejo is the tequila of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

spiritual experience

NIPPON DAMASHI

1 ½ oz Tequila Don Julio Añejo

1 oz pure yuzu juice

¾ oz elder fl ower cordial

Pour all the ingredients into a mixing glass. Shake with ice. Roll the rim of a rock glass in green tea sea salt. Fine strain the drink into the glass over a big cube of ice. Garnish with Kaffi r lime leaves. Cheers!

Aqua Spirit Milan Gurung

Aqua Spirit

Aqua Spirit Aqua Spirit

Milan

-

MilanMilan

Nippon Dam-ashi

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The Peninsula Hong Kong’s Chief Sommelier Bhatia Dheeraj sleuths the globe

searching for new wine regions, excellent small vineyards and delicious undiscovered

wines. He manages a list with over 900 different wines, for all of The Peninsula’s

restaurants. Tasting Kitchen caught up with him in the elegant surroundings

of Gaddi’s restaurant to quiz him about his craft. §

Tasting Kitchen

wine detective

When you bring new wines onto the list, what is your thought process?

The fi rst thing that comes to mind is the cuisine – at which of The Peninsula’s restaurants will a particular wine fi t? The next thing I consider is diversity. Everyone’s palate is different. Some people like com-plex wines, others prefer something more direct. I am a wine detective, here to under-stand your palate and pick the type of wine you will enjoy most.

Do you think of a dish fi rst and then a wine that pairs with it, or do you see a wine and then imagine which dish it would suit?

2005Mas Amiel

Both. I work very closely with the chefs here, picking wines to complement their menus. From time to time we invite all the chefs to a food and wine tasting. Sometimes the food can be adjusted to suit the wine. For example there was a dark chocolate pro-fi terole dessert which I wanted to pair with a very natural sweet red wine, a little like a port – the 2005 Mas Amiel Maury Vintage Charles Dupuy from Languedoc-Roussillon, France. We tasted this wine with the dessert, but the wine actually overpowered the choc-olate. The chef needed to make the sauce more bitter and chocolaty, so he adjusted it and now it is on our Diamond Jubilee menu. I have to be fl exible on my side too and work

D E D I C A T E D T O A P P R E C I A T I N G T H E B E S T M I N D S I N T H E W O R L D O F W I N E

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Hervé Laviale, winemaker

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hard on the wine pairings. And of course I could never do it all on my own. I am in a constant daily dialogue with our Director of Food and Beverage Kevin Tsang and Gad-di’s Manager Dominique Lemercier, both renowned sommeliers.

What are you really enthusiastic about right now?

Château du Cèdre 2007. This is a one hundred percent biodynamic Malbec from Cahors, France. It’s very different from the Argentine Malbecs. This strikes the right balance between fruit and complexity, with soft tannins and a silky fi nish.

Is it all about the fl avor? What other factors contribute to a wine’s character?

Wine is a living thing. There is always a lot of history behind the liquid before it gets into the bottle. We have a beautiful Burgundy – 2008 Domaine Dublère Volnay – which has an incredibly romantic story. This crazy American, Blair Pethel, went to France and fell in love with Burgundy and never left. He stayed to make wine forever. It’s not just about the liquid in the bottle, but also the love, passion and emotion behind the making of the wine.

What about dessert wines? Any tips?Marabino is a sweet Italian Moscato di

Noto from Sicily. This is different because it has a beautiful balance of sweetness and acidity, a fresh tingling acidity, which makes it exciting to pair with pate de foie or des-serts. It might also work with Sichuan or something which burns your mouth. This wine would really cool it.

And what may we look forward to seeing on the Peninsula wine list in the future?

I recently went to the Kelowna region in British Columbia to try some new wines. This was an eye opener for me – they do some

fantastic stuff. I would like to see more Cana-dian wine in the market. The wines I tasted have a uniquely Canadian style. You can’t compare them to wines from other coun-tries. Very light reds, perfumed, light fruit fl avors. Climate change is really going to ben-efi t Canada as a new wine growing region.

With what would you pair a Pinot Noir from British Columbia?

No strong meats. I would pair it with lamb dishes. This wine would also be fan-tastic with seafood.

Are people drinking more reds with sea-food these days?

It’s a common perception that we mustn’t have red with seafood, that white wine has to go with seafood and red wine with meat. What do you do when guests tell you: ‘Oh I don’t drink white wine’? You still need to fi nd wine that complements the meal. You could pair a light Pinot Noir like this with sea bass or salmon. The cooking style makes the dif-ference – how thick or strong the sauce is, not the core ingredients. Chicken is another meat people associate with white wine, but it doesn’t always have to be like that. Chicken stuffed with mushrooms in a fragrant black truffl e sauce, for example, would be fantas-tic with Pinot. A Burgundy Pinot has earthy, vegetal notes, which would match well with this dish.

Does very expensive wine taste much better?

Oh no, not at all. A lot of blind tasting events have proven this. Some wines are big labels from big chateaux. Some haven’t made it big. At the end of the day every wine is a liquid. The only way to judge is to taste. To me the expense doesn’t matter until you’ve tasted. It’s important to train your palate to understand – I love to taste all good wines.

“Wine is a

living thing.

2007 Château du Cèdre

- 2008 Domaine Dublère Volnay -

Blair Pethel

?

Miele Boutique Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 111 q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk

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?

Miele is proud to share another chapter in its dedication to the world of fi ne wine.

A constant commitment to excellence & an enduring desire to be forever better.

SINCE 1899This Château du Cèdre 2007 strikes just the right balance between fruit and complexity

with soft tannins and a silky fi nish, says The Peninsula’s Chief Sommelier Dheeraj Bhatia.

Bhatia Dheeraj 2007 Château du Cèdre

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?

Miele is proud to share another chapter in its dedication to the world of fi ne wine.

A constant commitment to excellence & an enduring desire to be forever better.

SINCE 1899This Château du Cèdre 2007 strikes just the right balance between fruit and complexity

with soft tannins and a silky fi nish, says The Peninsula’s Chief Sommelier Dheeraj Bhatia.

Bhatia Dheeraj 2007 Château du Cèdre

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Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fi ne resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG

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Tasting Kitchen

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CuisineLa Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa CaféLa PalomaLan Laurel Laurel Lax CaféLe CesarLei Garden Lemongrass Macau Thai

Café Litoral RestaurantLord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macallan Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ CaféMO Lobby Lounge + Cake

ShopModern ThaiMorton's Steakhouse Mugs TalkMyung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi O Porto Interior RestauranteOld Shanghai Old Taipa TavernOsgatosPacifi c Coffee Pacifi c Coffee CODPacifi c Coffee GalaxyPacifi c Coffee SCCPak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby LoungePearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria ToscanaPrive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurante FernandoRossio Royal Orchid Saffron Sakazuki Savory CrabShanghainese 456 Singing Bean Sky 21Spice Garden Square 8 Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP loungeTalay Thai RestaurantTang's Cuisine Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room by Galliot Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda

Vasco Vergnano Italian Vida Rica BarVida Rica RestaurantWave Westin The LoungeWindows Restaurant Windsor Lounge Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSESAirport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf MacauFIT Club French Wine Institute Kings VilleLa Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan  Mariott Vacation Club Asia

Pacifi c Millennium Nova City  Ocean Garden ClubhouseOne Central The Buckingham The Pacifi ca Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School

of MacaoMacau Golf & Country ClubQube - VenetianQube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKINGBank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite

Banking

GOURMET SHOP & WINE SHOPAkasaka IbéricosFu Wan Commercial and

Industrial Enterprise ltd.Gourmet CornerJointek Macau Shop MBL Pacifi c Wine MartPrestige Jewelry & Gift

SPASGrand Lapa SpaSix Senses SpaMO The SpaRoyal Thai SpaMalo Clinic SpaFour Seasons SpaBodhi SpaAltira SpaBanyan Tree SpaRock SpaIsala SpaCrown the Spa

TRANSITAir MacauJet AsiaMacau JetBurgeon Rent a carAvisTurbojetXunlong

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS

HOTEL OKURA MACAU

Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau

www.hotelokuramacau.com

The Crystal Piano 5 Bar & Lounge

28/Fq +853 8883 5109

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and up

A Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Sakazuki Sake Bar 5 Sake Bar

2/F q +853 8883 5125

16:00–24:00 Tues–SunMOP 60 and up

A Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato 5 Japanese/Kaiseki

2/Fq +853 8883 5127

12:00–22:30 Tues–SunMOP 300 and up

A Casual ChicH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Terrace Restaurant 5 International

2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126

07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and up

A Resort CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant

5 Cantonese29/F iSquare , 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

63iSQUARE 29

q +852 2328 0983 Lunch: 12:00–15:00Dinner: 18:00–22:30HKD 300–500

A Casual

Aqua Spirit 5 Bar

One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui,Hong Kong

1 30q +852 3427 2288

17:00–02:00 Sun-Thur17:00–03:00 Fri-SatHKD 41-100

A Casual Chicwww.aqua.com.hk

Blue Butcher5 Bar & Restaurant

108 Hollywood Road, Central108

q +852 2613 9286 12:00-0:00 dailyAbove $500

A Casual Chic

Don Alfonso 1890 1890

5 Southern Italian3/F Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau

3q +853 8803 7722

Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Dinner: 18:30–22:30 MOP 1,200

A Smart Casual

Inagiku

5 Japanese5/F, StarWorld Hotel MacauAvenida da Amizade

q +853 8290 866812:00–14:30, 18:00–23:00

A Casual Chic

SPONSORED

Poker CaféA unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau.

5 InternationalAvenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147

147q +853 28 924370

11:00-04:00MOP 30 to 80

Jade Dragon 5 Cantonese

2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai

2q +853 8868 2822

11:00– 15:00, 18:00–23:00MOP 301-500

A Smart Casual

L’Atelier de Joël RobuchonShop 401, 4/F The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong

12–164 401

5 French Contemporaryq +852 2166 9000

07:30–10:00, 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:30 HKD 500+

A Smart Casual

Ming Court 6/F Langham Place, 555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok, Hong Kong

555 65 Cantoneseq +852 3552 3300

Lunch: 11:00–14:30 Mon-Fri 11:00–15:00 Sat-Sun

Dinner: 18:00–22:30 HKD 500+

A Smart Casual

Peninsula Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

q +852 3071 3372H www.peninsula.com

Restaurant Petrus 5 French

56/F Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacifi c Place, Supreme Court Road, Admiralty

56q +852 2820 8590

Lunch: 12:00–15:00Dinner: 18:30–23:00 HKD 500+

A Smart Casual

Sevva5 Asian & Western

25/F, Prince‘s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central District, Hong Kong

10 25q +852 2537 1388

Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Mon to Fri11:00–15:00 Sat

Dinner: 18:00–22:30 Mon to Wed18:00–23:00 Thu to Sat

HKD 500 A Smart Casual

Shore 5 Steak House

3rd and 4th fl oor, L Place. 139 Queen‘s Road, Central, Hong Kong

139L Place 3 4

q +852 2915 1638Lunch: 12:00–15:00 Mon to Fri Dinner: 18:00–22:30 Mon to SunHKD151-300

A Smart Casual

St. George5 French

Hullett House, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui 2A

q +852 3988 0220 12:00 - 14:30, 18:30 - 22:00 Mon - SatHKD 301-500

A Smart casual

Steik World Meats5 Steak House

Shop 14, Level 3, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

18 K11314

q +852 2530 0011 12:00–15:00 and 18:00-23.30HKD 500

A Smart Casual

Vida Rica 5 Chinese & Western

2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau

2q +853 8805 8918

18:00-23:00 MOP 151-300

A Smart casual

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SUBSCRIBE50% off

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Kindly return the completed form by fax or mail to:Ignite Media GroupAttention: Anita Leong7A, 22/F, Kodak House II39 Healthy East StreetQuarry Bay, Hong Kong

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Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’sfi nest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

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dessert

Classic Baked Alaska is Grand Mariner-marinated sponge cake and ice cream, topped with a blanket of meringue which is fi rmed up during a short visit to a hot oven. At Mandarin Oriental Macau’s Vida Rica,

Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand dispenses with the cake, adds marinated strawberries to the meringue (which he torches), and serves it all with strawberry coulis and a juice-fi lled strawberry bomb.

(Grand Mariner)(Baked Alaska)

( )

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penfolds.com

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