Tapping into a Revolution:

How Local Hop Production Influences the Craft Beer Culture in Oregon

Dakota D. Dorn and Miles O. Hegg

University of Wisconsin-Eau Claire

Geography 368: Field Seminar

Fall 2014

Abstract

In 1854, United States hop production was concentrated in four counties in central New

York. By 1920, hop production had migrated through the Midwest to the Pacific Northwest—

nearly eliminating production on the East Coast (Parsons 1940). The purpose of this research

project is to analyze the historical progression of hop production in this era to provide support to

the present craft beer “revolution” in Oregon. In the 1970s, Oregon experienced a cultural

movement towards locally made products, and this fostered the development of the state’s craft

beer industry. The passing of the Oregon Brewpub Law in 1985 permitted the production and

sale of craft beer from one location (Woodward et. al. 2010). To better understand the

connection between the migration of hop production, the emergence of craft beer culture, and the

particularly provincial nature of the culture, we used Wes Flack’s concept of ‘neo-localism’ as

our guide and historical archives, present day literature, and on-site interviews with brew

masters, brewpub owners, hop farmers, and Oregonian beer enthusiasts to examine the ways that

craft beer thrives on the geographical ties to ‘place’, thus making local hop production a key

factor in the growth of Oregon’s craft beer industry.

Introduction

Due to ideal growing conditions, pests, diseases, and westward expansion, hop

production in the United States shifted from the east coast to its home today in the Pacific

Northwest. With its historic background of being a major hop production state, Oregon is home

to one of the leading craft brewing industries in the country. This craft beer revolution has been

the ongoing growth of an industry that began in the 1970’s as an alternative to the large scale

macrobrewing industry (Woodward and Bennett 2010). Following concepts common of

alternative food networks, the craft beer industry is moving towards locally produced fresh

ingredients such as hops to increase the value of the product. Oregon is the second largest

producer of hops in the country and spends the most money on craft beer in relationship to any

other state (Oregon Craft Beer 2014). The connection between local hop production and a

booming craft beer culture have extraordinarily close ties.

Research Question and Methods

The focus of our research is based on the question of what effect local hop production has

on the craft beer industry in Oregon. This is paired with other questions such as: Why is Oregon

a major hop producing region? How did it become a hop producing region? What were the

driving factors in the uprising of craft brewing in Oregon? How are local hops used to

benefit the Oregon craft brewing industry? What components are keeping the craft brewing

industry going, and why is Oregon’s thriving?

To accomplish our research goals we used a variety of methods. One of the methods

used was Wes Flack’s concept of “neo-localism” which is a term that relates to the supporting of

local over big business. That concept is one that is highly prominent in the micro and craft

brewing industries and relates to their growth in the last few decades. Present day literature in

the form of journal articles and books, acquired from the UW Library System, were also a useful

resource as it provided us with a background on some of the work that has been done on the

topic, and some work closely related. Historical archives from the Willamette Heritage

Center and Census data from the late 1800s to present provided an in depth look into historic hop

yield data. By looking at the data through the years it is easy to see the migration of hop

production from the east coast to the west coast. On-site interviews were another tactic used in

the research. The interviews were conducted with brew masters, brewpub owners, hop farmers,

and Oregonian beer enthusiasts. The interviews consisted of a couple general questions everyone

was asked, but also some relating particularly to their title. Everyone we talked to was eager to

share their knowledge on the craft beer industry and the local hops that accompany it.

As far as what will be mapped in our project there are a couple things we will be focusing

on. The first is a historical map of hop yields through the years that will show the shift of hops

from the east coast to the Pacific Northwest, making a small stop in Wisconsin for a few years.

Other maps that will be made are a map of hop farms in Oregon, and a map of

breweries/brewpubs or hop farms that we personally visited during our time in Oregon.

Literature Review

Humulus lupulus, or the common hop, is a perennial vine that can reach lengths up to

nine meters (Allen, Botanical Illustration). The female plants produce a flower called a cone that

contains essential oils that are extracted and used for a variety of different purposes such as,

components in perfumes, flavoring tobacco and as a preservative. The fibrous stems are used in

the creation of materials such as clothing, paper, and board products, but hops make their name

for their crucial role in brewing beer (Duke, Energy Crops). Hops account for the aromatic and

bittering properties of beer. The essential oils and resins are what control certain flavoring

expressions and are found within a sticky yellow substance found at the base of the petals called

lupulin. Within the lupulin are alpha acids and beta acids—both contributing to the bitterness of

beer. The amount of these bittering acids varies between varieties of hops which make some

varieties more desirable for certain beers and their ultimate flavor expression. Hops, like many

agricultural crops are planted in the spring and then harvested in the fall. The plant grows in

regions ranging from 35-51 N° and 34-43 S°. Hops are native to Europe and Asia and have been

since cultivated around the globe (Parks, Hop Chemistry, 1).

The origins of hop cultivation for brewing beer in Europe is debated and uncertain, but it

is thought to have started around the 5th and 7th centuries and was later expanded on by the

monastic communities in Germany in the Hallertau region of Bavaria. This region, still today,

proves to be the number one producer of hops on a global scale (Barth, Hop Atlas, 93). From

across the pond, it is said that hops spread to America from European settlement in the 17th

century (Barth, Hop Atlas 125). With the new colonist’s love of beer brought the necessity of

cultivating hops on the new soil. Massachusetts became the first large scale production area in

the beginning of the 18th century and from there spread to other states in New England (Beer,

Bamforth, 110).

Figure 1. This map shows the hop production in pounds of each state in 1840.

By the early 19th century New York had dominated the hop industry, producing more

than nine tenths of the country’s output (Parsons, California, 1). The completion of the Erie

Canal in 1825 gave route for settlers to the Midwest from the East Coast, specifically New

York (Finch, New York State Canals, 1-8). At the time of their arrival in Wisconsin there were

wild hops growing in the South Eastern part of the state which led to the domestic cultivation

of the plant (Figure 1). By 1867 Wisconsin’s hop production was at its peak and was second in

the nation (U.S. Census Bureau, Productions of agriculture, 85). At this time, the hop industry

was going through one of the most considerable relocations in agriculture history—the

migration from the east coast to the west coast. As the country expanded westward so did the

hop industry. California was the first to cultivate hops on the west coast in 1854 (Parsons,

California, 110).

Hop production reached into Oregon and Washington shortly after their introduction in

California. Hop production in New England and the Midwest began to decline due to disease,

less favorable growing conditions, and prohibition (Barth, Hop Atlas, 159). With the decline of

East Coast production came the rise of West coast production especially in Oregon. The

Willamette Valley in Oregon was the number one hop producing region in the country from the

beginning to the middle of the 20th century (Barth, Hop Atlas, 159). After Oregon lost its title,

Washington took over holding one of the strongest hop producing regions in the world, Yakima

Valley. At the beginning of prohibition, in 1920 the hop industry existed on a noticeable scale

only in the Pacific Northwest. Oregon still today is the second largest hop producer in the

country, giving it no better reason to have one of the strongest beer cultures in the country.

The beginning of brewing beer in Oregon began in the mid-19th century when German

immigrant, Henry Saxer opened the first brewery, Liberty Brewing in 1852 (Woodward and

Bennett, Oregon Beer History, 1). The rise of macro breweries began, which eventually led to

the demand for a difference in taste, craft beer (Trembley, Natsuko, and Trembley, Industry

Concentration, 316). In the 1970s the industry shifted from a heavy macrobrew culture to a more

craft brewing microbrew due to the provincialistic nature of Oregon (Woodward and Bennett,

Oregon Beer History, 1). During this time the revitalization of the heavy hopped IPA was

beginning to emerge on the west coast which brought local hop production to the stage as a

necessity (Haugland, 2014) Local hop production was utilized as a focal point in beer

consumption in the craft brewing culture and a method of building place. Oregon has

incorporated its ability to produce and brew with fresh hops in festivals during the harvest

season which plays off the idea of seasonality in consumption—an entry point into certain times

of the year which ties local fresh-hopped beer to the place and the culture behind it

(Bell and Valentine, Consuming Geographies, 4) The consumers of Oregon craft beer are true to

their brew like consumers of craft beer around the country, they tend to have higher awareness

and knowledge of the product (Kleban and Nickerson, Craft Brew, 37). This knowledge is used

in tandem with the idea of promoting the reconstruction of place with the idea of “neo-localism”.

Brands, beer names, and marketing fresh ingredients (hops) are geared toward this concept of

creating an identity of place (Schnell and Reese, Local Identity, 45). Thus craft beer is used as a

venue to indulge in Oregon’s culture (Mathews and Picton, Intoxifying Gentrification, 1). The

expansion of the brewing culture can be linked to how online reviews for craft beer promote the

hyperdifferentiation of beer. This forces creativity from the brewers to keep up with the next and

also allows brewers to keep up with demand more easily (Clemons et. al. 2006).

Today, craft brewing’s focus follows similar trends of food production which is based

on alternative food networks. Fresh local ingredients are used to benefit the social economy

and sustainable community development (Connelly et. al., 3). In the case of craft beer, hops

are crucial components that can be easily linked to beer locality.

Analysis: Craft Beer

Oregon is one of the country’s leading beer cultures, and is well known for what its craft

beer brings to the table, or the bar. There are many factors that influence and prove that craft beer

has a place in Oregon. The first is the high level of knowledge that Oregonians have on

everything beer related. Even if they are not involved in the culture they still are educated on it,

which goes to show how deeply rooted the culture is. While at the brewpubs and breweries a

series of onsite interviews with brewpub owners, bartenders, brewmasters, and fellow

pub goers was conducted. The interview questions were for the most part specific to whom was

being asked, but some of the questions were general and asked to everyone no matter their

position in the craft beer culture. While visiting Pints Brewery, Natalie, a bartender and beer

enthusiast was interviewed. Natalie shared her knowledge on cicerones. Cicerones are certified

and educated beer professionals who are trained to enhance consumer’s beer experience, and aid

brewers in crafting beer. Most breweries in Oregon require servers and bartenders to get the

certified beer server certification, which is the first of three certifications. A cicerone in beer is

very comparable to a sommelier in wine. Wine has strong connections to the craft beer culture

that can be identified by the consumer. “Boutique wineries might be said to have paved the way

for microbreweries … a wine taster uses only the taste buds on the front of the tongue, a beer

taster must also engage the buds on the very back … the beer taster must therefore have a more

sophisticated palate” (Flack, 1997). This also relates to one of the onsite interviews with Joe the

bartender at Old Town Brewery in Portland. He was very knowledgeable on the craft beer scene

and could even relate it to where he lived prior in Boulder, CO. Joe had an interesting take on the

craft beer culture.

“Beer is like UFC and wine is like boxing, in boxing the rules are set and you can’t change things. With beer they are always trying new things and experimenting with new beers. The culture is casual and laid back and the people are young, fun, and evolving. The culture is really inviting to the consumer.”- Joe Sanders, Bartender at Old Town Brewery

Figure 2. This map shows the locations that research was conducted in. It is a collection of brewpubs, breweries, and hop farms.

While conducting research in Oregon, numerous brewpubs were visited (Figure 2).

During the touring brewpubs and conducting interviews, a commonality was noticed between

them. That commonality is the presence of detailed information on the individual beers that

appears on menus, blackboards, and even the labels. ABV (Alcohol by Volume), OG (Original

Gravity), TG (Traditional Gravity), IBU (International Bittering Units), SRM (Standard

Reference Method), the type of hops used, and a detailed description of the beer and how it was

made, were all displayed around the beer (figure 3).

Figure 3.

These pictures show the amount of information about the beer that is represented in the labeling and menu descriptions. On the left is a tap menu from McMenamin’s Chapel Pub and on the right is the label from a bottle of beer from Hopworks Bikebar.

The wealth of information relates back to the high knowledge of beer drinkers in Oregon.

Usually only a brewer would know what those acronyms mean, not the average consumer. Since

the industry has been doing so well, the market is flooded. In order to keep up, you need to be on

the forefront of brewing, which is driven by creativity. Rob Vallance, General Manager at

McMenamin’s Pub and Brewery, explained this hyperdifferentiation and also explained the ways

that social media effect craft brewing culture and allow brewers and brewing companies to

access “live feedback” on the current demand. All social media is useful to brewers to interact

with their customers and get their name out there, but one facet is becoming increasingly

popular. UnTappd is a social media app created to share ones beer drinking exploits with their

friends and rate the beers that they drink. On the app, brewers have the ability to analyze

consumer trends with their beers, connect with their fans, and manage their beer data by making

a portfolio. This

is a powerful tool to brewers because it lets them know what consumers think of their product so

they can make changes that improve the products in the future.

The last factor that influenced the craft beer culture in Oregon relates to place.

Historically, Oregon has had many brewpubs and breweries. Since the infrastructure is already

there its presence makes the growth of the culture more feasible. Along with that the population

is one of a provincialistic nature.

"Oregonians are savagely loyal to products made in their state" Lowell Ford, Owner of Illahe Vineyards

These principles have helped the Oregon craft beer culture grow in leaps in and bounds,

and shape Oregon into the proud state that it is today.

Analysis: Hops

The culture that has been fermenting in Oregon has close ties to popular alternative food

networks. Like alternative food networks, the craft brewing culture is focused on combating the

macrobrewing companies and directing attention to local products. Hops, being locally grown,

are a huge factor in the locality of the beer brewed in Oregon. Craft beer entails heavy hopped

brews, they are a necessary component in large numbers (Haugland, 126). Local beer is wanted

everywhere and the push to engage local ingredients into that beer is also on the rise. There is

the constant need to stay ahead of the game in the craft brewing industry, which makes setting

oneself apart important. Local hops can be easily obtained in Oregon, making the beer they

produce with the hops a step ahead in locality to the rest of the country. Many of the Oregonians

we interviewed gave us similar answers when it came to describing the craft brewing culture in

Oregon. The local ingredients are what set their

beer apart. Some hop farmers, in the past ten years of the boom of craft beer, have been shifting

their products from being sold primarily to the macrobrewing companies to the smaller craft

brewing companies. Glenn Goschie, owner of Goschie Farms, is celebrating his family farm’s

110th year in the hop farming business. He spoke about how he and his sister, co-owner

Gayle Goschie transitioned from selling primarily to Anheuser-Busch to primarily craft

brewers in Oregon. Glenn explained that it takes quite a bit of effort to make this change and

more hop farmers are taking the steps to do so. His reasoning for changing over was that there

was a booming market for local hops in beer. More craft brewers in Oregon are seeking the

relationships that customers involved in alternative and local food networks have according to

Rob Vallance. The amount of information that the beer consumers share in Oregon is a reason

for brewers to want to be able to share that knowledge of the hop farm operations to their

customers drinking their beer.

“They’re a little more unique. A lot of them—they visit us every year. They want that connection between them and us. It’s almost like people who support local farmers markets. They want that connection. They want to know where their food came from, who is in charge—who is doing all of those things. And so then the brewers will come see us and they want to be able to go back and tell their customers, ‘ya know I’ve been out there this is what I saw.’ There’s a lot of social media around it all.”

-Glenn Goschie, Owner of Goschie Farms

The idea of local hops in beer peaks at the use of fresh hops in beer. In order to use fresh

hops, craft beer brewers must go directly to the suppliers and pick-up their hops. The hops must

then be quickly transported to begin brewing, to help retain freshness and flavor. Fresh hops

only exist when the harvest season is in progress during late summer and early fall. Since fresh

hops are at the helm of the environment and the beer

produced is seasonal, it now becomes strongly tied to the environment of Oregon, strengthening

the craft beer’s tie to place. Seasonality, in congruence with Wes Flack’s idea of ‘neo-localism’

which denotes the contemporary re-identification of ‘place’, plays a strong role in Oregon’s hops

and craft brewing industry (Flack, 38). Seasonality and locality are privileged in the local food

market, thus making hops a crucial component in the progression of Oregon’s craft brewing

industry as well (Hinrichs, 297). The nature of seasonality gives the product a strong tie to the

time and space in which it is created and consumed, marking it as superiorly local (Bell and

Valentine 4). Fresh hops contribute to the craft beer community in other forms such as fresh hop

festivals. Oregon is the home to seven city-wide fresh hop festivals shown in Figure 4, not

including the countless fresh hop festivals that individual breweries hold each year. These

festivals bring together a community of craft beer drinkers and act as passages into the winter

months which bring a different, heavier style of beer.

We conducted interviews at Portland’s 2014 Fresh Hops Festival with the goal of getting

a better grasp of what craft beer drinkers thought. We asked interviewees the question, “What

sets Oregon craft beer apart from other states?” The responses that were given took us by

surprise. People who were indulging in the craft beer culture were quite knowledgeable on the

subject. Many people responded instantly as if the question had been rehearsed. A few of the

common answers from the interviews were: Hops being produced in close proximity to the

breweries, the friendly environment, and the existing culture. These answers seemed to be a

commonality between most of the interviews we conducted in our research.

Figure 4. Locations of cities hosting fresh hop festivals in Oregon

Conclusion

Oregon’s craft beer industry has been growing and setting standards for the rest of the country

since the rise of the industry. With a pre-existing culture that has been thriving on creativity and the

state’s provincialistic nature, there is no stopping the growth of Oregon’s craft beer industry. One of the

primary factors in this growth is the availability of local hops. Oregon’s hop production is enabling craft

brewers in Oregon to be at the top of the barrel with strong locality in their beers. Local hops set Oregon’s

craft brewing industry ahead of the game due to the availability of fresh hops to establish local identities

around fresh local ingredients. With the analysis we did and the interviews we conducted, the significance

of local hop production to the craft brewing industry is a large contributing factor to the Oregonian Culture.

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