fattyacid in textile industry

8/4/2019 FattyAcid in Textile Industry

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DRosnah, I

INTRODUCTION known as textile auxiliaries, to performvarious functions. A large and significantamount of these textile auxiliaries arebased on fatty acid derivatives, which areused as detergents, wetting andpenetrating agents, lubricants, anti-staticagents, dyeing assistants, softeners andwater repellents.

he textile industry, consists ofmany manufacturing proces-ses" involved in the productionof fibers, yarns and

fabrics (Figure 1). It involves the use ofdiverse types of specialty chemicals, alsor M AN M AD E F IB RE 1~PRODUCTION I

NATURA L F IBRE I,PRODUCTION ,:

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r DYEING

CONVERSION t----=./ / - - - - - - - - - .__

/~/ continu~ . .> -- - -- - - -- - - - towfilaments ~

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TEXTUR1NG jSPINNING

J ,DOUBLINGj

Sewing threads- - Rope & twineTyre cords

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NONWOVEN FABR~CPRODUCTION [ D Y E IN G

Adhesive BondingNeedle BondinqStitch Bond;ngFelting

WINDINGSIZINGBEAMINGI

Spun Bonding WEAVINGWARP KNITTING

I W E F T KNITIING~Ii LACE MAKING ~.

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PROCESS

I 1i r---DESIZINGI SCOURING

J. _BLEACH~NGDYElNGPRINTINGFINISHING ~~~ Ap- ~ Hproduct [ MAKING UP

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parelousehold TextilesCarpetsSurgicalIndustrialend-uses M A R K E T t N G

Figure 1~Textile processes - Simple Flow Chart."Textile glossary as listed in Appendix A

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This paper describes various uses oftextile auxiliaries based on fatty acidderivatives.

DETERGENTSDetergents (Nettles, 1983; Palmer, 1977;Patterson et al., 1989) are used to removeunwanted impurities on the textileproducts prior to a wet processing ormechanical finishing operation. This is ascouring operation where soap wasformerly used but has been replacedlargely by synthetic detergents. Soap isstill being used in scouring cotton toremove natural wax and extraneousmaterials introduced during precedingoperations, in scouring wool to removewool grease and in silk degumming.

The use of detergents has resulted inan increase in pollution problems. Hencebiodegradable fatty acid based detergentssuch as alcohol sulphates are assuminggreater importance.

.. .Fatty acid based anionic detergentsare also widely used in textile scouring.For example, N-methyloleyltaurine is usedin the preparation of material for dyeingdue to its high and excellent dye-levellingproperties. The sulphonated mono-ethanolamides and alcohol sulphates areused in scouring of synthetics and finalwashing of printed material. In textilescouring, cationic detergents are not used,while amphoteric detergents have littlesignificance.WETTING AND PENETRATING AGENTSA wetting agent is added to achieve arapid wetting of the fabric by the treatingsolution such as cleaning, dyebath andfinishing. Chemically wetting agents aresimilar to the detergents except that thosehaving lower ratio of hydrophobic tohydrophillic character are more efficientthan detergents. Sulphated fatty acid

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esters (Nettles, 1983) such as isopropyloleate and sulphated butyl oleate are themost powerful wetting agents. Sulphatedoleic acid is also used sometimes.Phosphate esters such as lauryl alcoholphosphate are particularly efficient andstable in alkaline solutions. However, fattyacid based nonionic compounds do notpossess high wetting power.

LUBRICANTSFiber lubricants are applied to textilefibers, filaments and yarns to minimizebreakage during high speed operationssuch as spinning, twisting, winding,texturing, weaving and knitting. It iscalled "spin finishes" when applied to fibersurfaces in the production of man-madefibers and "processing finishes" whenapplied to natural or man-made duringsubsequent processing steps.

The spin finish protects the newlyformed fiber by coating it with amulticomponent formulation. A commonformulation includes a lubricant, a fiber-to-fiber friction aid, an antistatic agentand emulsifier and other additives such assoil release agents. They cover a widerange of chemical types e.g. fatty alcohols,esters, amides, ethers, ethoxylates andquaternary compounds. Chemicalscommonly used in each category are listedin Table 1 (Nettles, 1983; Rosnah, 1995).

ANTISTATIC AGENTSDuring the course of carding, spinning andwinding, the lubricated fibers, filaments oryarns, as a result of sliding contactsbetween fibers and between fibers andother surfaces, static electrical charges aregenerated and accumulated. This maycause the fibers to repel each other or tobe attracted to oppositely charged machineparts. In most cases, it is necessary todevelop means for keeping static chargesat low level~


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Fatty Acid Derivatives GS Textile Auxiliaries.

used for textile production will be almost2.0 million tonnes by the year 2000. As themarket demand and concern are turningtowards water soluble andenvironmentally friendly products, thefuture of oleochemicals looks brighter bythe year 2000 and beyond.

REFERENCESDOLLINGER, G; CUNTZE, U; andKLEBER, R (1976). Antistatic andlubricating agents for the processing offibers. USP 3, 954, 633.DOBSON, S (1994). Asia-Pacific: Syntheticfiber and fiber intermediates 1993-2002.Chem. and Ind., 754-757.ELIAS, BA and PANTZARIS, TP (1995),Technical uses of oils and fats. Palm OilTechnical Bulletin Vol. 1, No.7.GANDER, KF (1984). Fats and Oils asFeedstocks for Oleochemicals. JAOeS Vol~61, No.2.JOHNSON, K (1976). AntistaticCompositions for Textile and Plastics.Noyes Data Corporation.

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LEONARD, EC and KOPALD, SL (1984).Challenges to a Mature Industry:Marketing and Economics ofOleochemicals in the United States,JADeS Vol. 61, No.2.NETTLES, JE (1983). Handbook ofChemical Specialties: Textile FiberProcessing, Preparation and Bleaching.John Wiley & Sons.PALMER, JW (1977). Textile processingand finishing aids. Noyes Data Corp.PATTERSON, HT and PROFITT, TJ Jr.(1989). Fatty acids in Textiles. A chapterin Fatty acid in Industry: ProcessesProperties Derivatives Application.Published by Marcel Dekker, 483-530.PROFITT, TJ and PATTERSON, HT(1988)~ Oleochemical surfactants andlubricants in the textile industry. JADeSVol. 65, No. 10, 1682-1694.ROSNAH ISMAIL (1995). Oleochemical astextile processing aids. PORIM ReportPO(259) 95 General.


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Appendix A

TEXTILE GLOSSARYBleaching ,.. The process of removing natural color or stains from fibers or fabrics by chemicalaction in order to render them white.Carding An operation which opens and cleans fibers, separate the individual fibers and deliverthem in sliver form or as a carded web.Degumming The process of removing natural gum from silk (the sericin from fibroin).Desizing The process of removing the sizing used on the warp yarn in weaving.Doubling '" The operation of combining several strands to form a single strand without twisting.Dyeing The process of coloring materials.Felting The process of producing a nonwoven fabric containing natural and/or man-madefibers treated by a suitable combination of mechanical action, pressure, heat and

moisture without spinning, weaving or knitting.Filament A variety of fiber having an extreme length, not readily measured ..Finishing General term for variety of processes by which woven fabrics are converted intofinished goods.Knitting The art of producing fabric on more than one needle by a method of interlopping one

or more yarns.Lace making A process 01making open mesh fabric made by hand or on a lace machine ..Printing Process of producing designs of one or more colors on yarns, warp or fabrics.Scouring Cleansing raw fiber, yarn and fabric by mechanical and chemical means.Sizing II Operation consisting of applying onto yarns compounds such as starch, gelatin, oil,wax, or any other suitable ingredient to aid the process of fabrication or to control

fabric characteristics.Spinning The process of making yarns or cordage from fibers, tow or liquid materials.

Texturing The process of giving a particular texture (loopy) to synthetic fiber.Twisting The process of producing turns about their axes of fibers, yarns, or cords.Warp .... The yarn running lengthwise in a woven fabric .Weaving . The process of manufacturing a fabric by interlacing a series of filling (weft) with a

series of warp (lengthwise) yarns at right angles.Weft The yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angle to the warp in a woven fabric.Winding I Transfer of a yarn or thread from one type of package to another e ..g. from cake tocone4

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fattyacid in textile industry

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